Blog

Funastrum clausum White Twinevine - Native to North America

Funastrum clausum White Twine Vine native to southern North America
Funastrum clausum White Twine Vine native to southern North America

White Twinevine Funastrum clausum – Native Plant of North America

Introduction

Funastrum clausum is sometimes classified under the name Sarcostemma clausum and goes by the common name of White Twinevine or Bejuco Revientachivo in Spanish. It is part of the Asclepiadaceae or Milkweed family, and like many members of this family, it exudes a milky latex. (Recently, the entire Milkweed family has been lumped into the Apocynaceae family, but I prefer to use the subfamily split of morphologically similar groups that help aid in identification). This is a beautiful but aggressive vine with lovely fragrant white flowers that are quite unique to the Milkweed family. If you live in an area where it is native, I encourage you to grow it in your yard. But if you live in the south and it is not native to your area, I do not advise planting it because of its aggressive nature. It could potentially become invasive.

Description of White Twinevine Funastrum clausum

Stem & Leaves

Funastrum clausum is a herbaceous perennial climbing vine that exudes milky latex. It grows from about 6-9 m long and climbs utilizing twining tendrils. The vines can become very aggressive, growing over trees, plants, and structures in their path.

The leaves are either attached directly to the stem (sessile) or have leaf stalks (petioles), and they are arranged oppositely on the stem. They are dark to medium green in color and are linear to oblong in shape, often with an acute to obtuse base. Leaves may be moderately to very pubescent and are somewhat succulent.

Funastrum clausum Flowers

The lovely fragrant flowers appear from spring till fall but can flower all year round. Flowers are borne in large umbels along the length of the stem. They have 5 pubescent white petals and they usually have a purple base that forms a conspicuous ring around the center of the flower. Sometimes the reddish-purple base is lacking, however.

As with all members of the Asclepiadaceae, the flowers have modified stamens that are formed into white globular lobes and united at the base into a ring-like structure. This makes identification of the genus quite easy as these are characteristic of the Funastrum genus.

Funastrum clausum Fruit

Its fruit is a follicle that is large, wide, and erect. When the follicle is ripe and dries, it splits open to release the seeds. Seeds are attached to a silky white pappus that is dispersed by wind.

The fruit is a follicle, here is an unripe fruit of Funastrum clausum
The fruit is a follicle. Here is an unripe fruit of Funastrum clausum.
Here is an ripened and opened fruit of Funastrum clausum showing seeds with their long white pappus
Here is a ripened and opened fruit of Funastrum clausum showing seeds with their long white pappus.

Similar Species Funastrum clausum is Frequently Confused With

Funastrum clausum is generally not confused with other genera due to its unique flowers. However, it can be confused with other members of the same genus whose range overlaps. They can be differentiated as follows:

  • Funastrum pannosum – this one is endemic to Mexico and shares a similar range. Its flower petals are more delicate in appearance, and the flower lacks the red ring around the center commonly found in Funastrum clausum.
  • Funastrum cynanchoides – this one is found in the southern US and northeast Mexico only. It also lacks the red ring around the ring-like stamen structure that is often found in Funastrum clausum, and it has leaves with a cordate base instead of acute or obtuse. It also has red tinges on the edges of the petals lacking in Funastrum clausum.
  • Funastrum heterophyllum is found in the southwestern US and throughout much of Mexico. It usually has reddish-purple petals instead of white, and its leaves are long and thin with a truncated base rather than acute or obtuse.

Distribution of White Twinevine Funastrum clausum

White Twinevine is found in the most southeastern corner of Texas, and it is also found in Florida. It is not found anywhere else in the USA, and it is not found in Canada.

In Mexico Bejuco Revientachivo is found in Baja California Sur, Sonora, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Jalisco, Colima, Michoacan, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Chiapas, Chihuahua, Durango, Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, San Luis Potosi, Puebla, Morelos, Veracruz, Campeche, Yucatan and Quintana Roo.

Funastrum clausum is also found throughout the Caribbean and in Central and South America as far south as northern Argentina.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of White Twinevine

Funastrum clausum grows in mildly acidic to alkaline soils.

Its water requirements are in the moist to mesic range. It requires some moisture but does not tolerate permanent flooding or arid soils, nor does it tolerate salt spray or brackish waters.

It is often found growing along swamps, rivers, riparian habitats, and moist woodlands throughout its native range.

White Twinevine grows in full sun to part shade.

It will not tolerate any freezing temperatures.

Growing White Twinevine in Your Garden

Funastrum clausum is best grown against a fence, arbor, or trellis of some kind.

Due to its aggressive nature, it can be difficult to control if the conditions are right for it. Do not grow it if it is not native to your area.

However, if it is native, it is a beautiful plant with fragrant flowers and provides important wildlife value.

Choose a location where it has support to climb on and will not be able to climb onto your other nearby vegetation. Vines can easily be cut to keep them under control if necessary.

Propagation is done by seeds collected from the flowers once ripe. Allow the seeds to fully dry before planting.

Propagation can also be readily done from herbaceous stem cuttings.

Wildlife Values of Funastrum clausum

White twinevine is a larval host plant for the Monarch, Queen, and Soldier butterflies. All of their caterpillars have adapted to feed on the plant and are not harmed by the toxic milky latex.

Native bees and wasps use the flowers as an important nectar source.

Status of Funastrum clausum

Bejuco Revientachivo is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In the USA, Funastrum clausum has not been ranked, as is the case with so many native species in the USA, even though it is only found in 2 states.

No information on its status could be found in Mexico, and it is not found in Canada.

Traditional or Other Uses of White Twinevine

Funastrum clausum Medicinal Uses

The milky latex of White twinevine is sometimes used to cure eye infections. In Jamaica, the plant was used as a remedy for colds.

In Costa Rica and Guatemala, the crushed leaves are used as a poultice to treat flesh-burrowing maggots of the Human Botfly.

White Twinevine as an Ornamental

This is a very easy plant to grow to the point it can become aggressive, and as such, it is at times popular as an ornamental. Once established, it requires no care other than occasional pruning to keep it under control.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Funastrum clausum

If you are harvesting Funastrum clausum from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, follicles, or leaves you see.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits, leaves, flowers, or roots can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

To dry the leaves, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry.

Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt and then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

If you are wanting to dry the fruits, they will need to be cut into smaller pieces before drying to prevent rotting. Otherwise, they could also be dried more quickly in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting.

Once dried, the plant parts can be stored in a jar for later use.

Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference.

Do not grind or crush the leaves or roots until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

When harvesting for propagation purposes, pick 1 in every 20 follicles you see. Make sure they are ripe when you pick them, and place them in a paper bag until they dry and split open. Once dried, the seeds are ready to plant. If using cuttings, simply cut from 1 in 20 vines you see. Keep the vines moist in a plastic bag with water or wrapped in a wet tea towel. Keep them cool until you get them home, at which time you can root them in water by immersing a node. Rooting hormones can also be used to encourage root production, although they should readily sprout roots from a node immersed in water without the use of hormones.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Backyard Nature Newsletter https://www.backyardnature.net/yucatan/clausum.htm

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Ricinus communis Castor Plant - Invasive in North America

Ricinus communis the Castor Bean Plant - an aggressive invasive species in North America, particularly in Mexico and the southern USA.
Ricinus communis the Castor Bean Plant – an aggressive invasive species in North America, particularly in Mexico and the southern USA.

Introduction

Castor Bean, or Castor Oil Plant, Ricinus communis, is a member of the monotypic genus Ricinus of the Euphorbiaceae family. It is an aggressive invasive perennial around the world, and the subtropical and tropical Americas are no exception. Castor Bean is an extremely widespread weed throughout Mexico and is also quite common throughout the southern USA. It also grows into the temperate northeastern corner of the USA, showing that it is more than capable of one day invading the Pacific Northwest and southern Canada, even though so far, it has not been reported there. The seeds of the Castor Oil plant are extremely toxic, so much so that the ingestion of even 3 or 4 seeds can cause severe gastrointestinal distress and, in some cases, even death.

Description of Ricinus communis

Ricinus communis Leaves & Stems

Castor Oil Plant grows from 1 – 5 m tall from a large taproot with several lateral roots.

It is a somewhat woody perennial shrub in tropical and subtropical climates but can behave as a herbaceous annual in temperate climates. It has a large woody hollow stem that is often purplish and covered with white powdery wax, along with the petioles and often the leaves. The stems and branches have conspicuous nodes and ring-like scars.

Leaves are arranged alternately on the stems, and at their bases are stipules 1 – 3 cm long that unite into a sheathing bud. The round leaf stalks (petioles) are 3 – 50 cm long and support very large palmate leaves with 5 – 9 lobes that are united at the bottom, with the petiole being placed just off-center (peltate) on the backside of the leaf. Leaf blades are irregularly toothed (serrated) and are very large, from 10 – 70 cm across.

Ricinus communis Flowers & Fruits

The female flowers of Ricinus communis appear in red on the top of the panicle, you can see some of the male flowers in creamy white at the base of the panicle.
The female flowers of Ricinus communis appear in red on the top of the panicle, and you can see some of the male flowers in creamy white at the base of the panicle.
The spiky fruit of the invasive Castor Bean Ricinus communis. It is green when it is young but turns brown when it matures and explosively dehisces its lethally toxic seeds.
The spiky fruit of the invasive Castor Bean Ricinus communis. It is green when it is young but turns brown when it matures and explosively dehisces its lethally toxic seeds.

It is a monoecious plant with separate male and female flowers on the same plant.

Flowers appear in erect terminal panicles up to 40 cm long. The male flowers are located on the base of the panicle, with the female flowers located at the top of the panicle. The male flowers lack petals and sepals and are made of clusters of many stamens in branched bundles.

The female flowers lack petals but possess sepals, but they fall off early (caducous). They have a superior soft spiny ovary with 3 styles that are red or green and are 2 cleft (divided).

Fruits are ellipsoid or sub-globose and 15 – 25 mm long. They are green when young and turn brown when mature. They are usually covered in conspicuous spines but occasionally are smooth.

The fruits hold ellipsoid seeds 9 – 17 mm long that are brittle and mottled brown with a caruncle located at the base. The seeds are extremely toxic and can be lethal, even if ingested in small quantities.

Ricinus communis Toxicity

The seeds of Ricinus communis are extremely toxic. They are one of the most potent natural biological toxins known to man. This is due to the presence of an albumin called ricin. The ingestion of just a few seeds can cause severe gastroenteritis, dehydration, liver or kidney damage, and even death.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

There are no other species in the Ricinus genus, but there are several unrelated plants that, at first glance, are often confused with Ricinus communis. However, as none are related, they can easily be differentiated by their flowers and fruits but also as follows:

  • Kalopanax septemlobus is a member of the Araliaceae family. While it is native to Asia, it has been introduced to the northeastern USA. It has similar-looking leaves but its stems are covered with very long spines, and the plant reaches heights of 30 m. Its flowers have 4 or 5 petals, and they grow in umbels.
  • Tetrapanax papyrifer is native to Taiwan but has been introduced along the east and west coasts of North America and central Mexico. It grows to similar heights and has large palmate leaves, but its palmate leaves’ lobes are also divided, unlike Ricinus communis. Its flowers are produced in large umbels at the top of the plant, and the flowers have 4 or 5 petals.
  • Carica papaya Papaya is native to Mesoamerica but has been widely introduced into northern Mexico and the southern USA for its edible fruit. When not in fruit, it can be differentiated by its more succulent than woody and usually unbranched stem. Its large palmate leaves are also clustered near the top of the plant, and the base is deeply cordate, not united with a peltate attachment as in Castor.
  • Fatsia japonica Japanese Aralia has been introduced along the east and west coasts of North America and possibly into Mexico. It grows to similar heights with palmate leaves, but its bases are not united and do not have a peltate attachment to its petioles. They produce umbels of bisexual flowers that possess both petals and sepals.
  • Cnidoscolus aconitifolius or Mala Mujer (Bad Woman) is native to Mesoamerica but has also been introduced into northern Mexico, Florida, and sporadically throughout the southern USA. It can be distinguished by its large palmate leaves that only have 3-5 lobes. It is also monecious, but its flowers are small and white.
  • Jatropha gossypifolia is native from Mexico to South America but has been introduced to the southern USA. It is a smaller plant with smaller leaves 7-15 cm wide with a cordate base. It also produces flowers with purple to reddish petals.
  • Manihot esculenta Cassava is native to South America but has been widely introduced throughout the sub and tropical Americas as a food plant. It usually grows to only 2 m, and its palmate leaves have only 3-5 lobes that usually have smooth edges or minutely toothed at most. Its fruit is a six-angled globose capsule.

Native Distribution of Ricinus communis

The castor plant is native to northeastern Africa but has naturalized throughout Africa, some of which may have been naturally spread, and others were aided by humans as far back as the stone age.

Habitat Types Where Ricinus communis is Found

In its native environment, Ricinus communis grows naturally in any disturbed habitat. It has a wide ecological tolerance allowing it to adapt to a multitude of conditions.

Castor Bean tolerates a wide range of soil conditions from acidic to alkaline, heavy to light, including infertile soils and shallow soils.

Its moisture requirements are moderate, and it can easily tolerate extended drought and even some inundation as long as the soil drains readily and is not submerged for extended periods of time.

Ricinus communis also tolerates a wide range of temperatures. It will survive -15 C in the winter and tolerates temperatures of 35 C in the summer.

Human Uses of Castor Bean or Castor Oil Plant

Ricinus communis has a long history of use by people. It has been cultivated for its oil for at least 6000 years, with the earliest recorded use in ancient Egypt.

The plant is used as an ornamental and botanical curiosity due to its enormous size. The oil was used both medicinally and for illumination before the use of other fuels, candles, and electricity became widespread.

Medicinally, Castor Oil is used as a purge internally as well as a cure-all in smaller doses for numerous internal ailments. Externally it is used for a variety of sores and skin conditions.

Castor Oil is also used in cosmetics, soap making, foods, as a lubricant, in paints, plastic, and linoleum. The press cake is poisonous and cannot be fed to animals, but it is often used as a fertilizer or fuel.

Distribution of Ricinus communis in North America

The species was first brought to North America in the 1700s. By 1760 it was documented as naturalized in Florida.

In Canada, Ricinus communis has not yet been recorded.

In the USA, Castor Bean has been recorded throughout many southern states, including California, Arizona, Utah, Kansas, Texas, Missouri, Louisiana, Alabama, Mississippi, Georgia, Florida, and North and South Carolina. It is also found in the northeastern states of Illinois, Michigan, Ohio, Virginia, Delaware, Maryland, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire. It is also found in Hawaii.

In Mexico, Ricinus communis has been reported in every state. It is particularly abundant on the east and west coasts and in south-central Mexico. It is less common in the northern desert states but has still been reported in those locations.

Castor Bean has been introduced on every continent except Antarctica and is even widespread throughout the Pacific Islands. It is a global problem.

How Castor Bean Spreads

It is primarily spread through long distances by deliberate human introductions as an ornamental or for its industrial uses.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through the explosive release of mature seeds from the fruits.

Humans also aid in short-distance dispersal by spreading seeds in garden waste, soils, and vehicles.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Due to its wide range of ecological tolerances, many habitats are at risk of invasion, particularly any habitat with disturbance. This means that anywhere humans develop, the land is at risk of invasion.

In addition to developed areas, it also invades grasslands, heathlands, riparian communities, and farmland. It is also commonly found on roadsides and in waste areas.

It is often a primary invader of recently burned lands.

In Spain, it has even invaded sand dunes, whereas it was previously thought unable to survive in permanently arid areas.

The only habitats not thought to currently be at risk are permanent wetlands, dense old-growth forests, and alpine habitats.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Since Ricinus communis is extremely toxic, it provides no real wildlife value.

It also reduces biodiversity where it invades.

There are no known benefits of its invasion other than the occasional native bee that may visit its flowers.

Methods to Remove Ricinus communis

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in some local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any, and do not plant them in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Physical Control of Castor Bean

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming, but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

The best time to remove Ricinus communis is while the plants are still small enough to pull out by hand. Due to the plant’s toxicity, gloves should be worn even when the plant is young. Pulling young plants when the soil is moist, and the roots cling less tightly to the soil is ideal. Sometimes even medium-sized plants can be pulled by hand from moist soil.

If the soil is dry or the plants are larger, weed pullers can be useful in removing more stubborn plants. Try to get as much of the root and crown as possible to help prevent resprouting. This is especially important when the soil is dry, as the root system will often break rather than give to the pulling.

With larger plants or colonies, you will need to cut the above-ground growth down, then dig out the individual crowns or cultivate the soil repeatedly with a machine for large colonies. This will help prevent any regeneration.

Burning is not recommended as a means of control as Castor Bean is a quick regenerator on burned sites, and burning may encourage rather than discourage its growth.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

If you have plants that have seeds on them, they must either be burned or solarized. Solarizing is usually best with Ricinus communis.

However, sometimes with large patches burning is more efficient for disposing of large amounts of plant matter rather than solarizing. If burning, be aware of their ability to regenerate rapidly from seed after a fire. If the fire does not attain sufficient heat, there will be a surge in seedlings not long after the fire. The area will need ongoing monitoring to deal with seedlings as they emerge.

Otherwise, to solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags. Then leave them in the full sun for a good 8 – 10 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. Many sources recommend shorter solarization periods. However, success depends on latitude, sun exposure, daytime high temperatures, and other factors that make shorter time periods prone to failure. Leaving invasive species to solarize as long as possible is always the best. Then they can be disposed of in a landfill, but be sure to inform them of their invasive status so they can be dealt with accordingly.

Chemical Control of Castor Oil Plant

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Ricinus communis.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Ricinus communis

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also usually not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii, but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach.

Because Ricinus communis is cultivated as a crop, no biological control methods are being developed for it. It is, however, prone to several pests and diseases, including mung moth, pink bollworm, seedling blight, rust spot, leaf spot, gray mold, stem canker, leaf blight, and bacterial wilt. However, these all affect other crops as well, so none are being developed to control Castor Bean.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form, this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings. Otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In many cases of removal, the site will need to be replanted immediately. This is because the bare soil will allow the seed bank to germinate and reinvade the patch they were removed from. Removal of single isolated individuals does not require replanting but the removal of a patch will. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon the removal of the Castor Bean.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Ricinus communis removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not.

If seedlings are allowed to emerge unchecked, the invasive Castor Bean will simply re-invade and take over before the native species are able to grow back in their place. Removal of young plants by physical means is always the easiest and most effective means of control.

References and Resources

CABI on Ricinus communis https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/47618

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Geranium maculatum Wild Geranium - Native to North America

Geranium maculatum Wild Geranium or Wild Cranesbill - Native Species of North America
Geranium maculatum Wild Geranium or Wild Cranesbill – Native Species of North America

Wild Geranium Geranium maculatum – Native Plant of North America

The gorgeous Geranium maculatum Wild Geranium of the Geraniaceae family is part of the Geraniales Order of flowering dicots. This is an absolutely gorgeous native wildflower. I don’t know why anyone grows invasive species in their yards when we have so many gorgeous native flowers like Wild Geranium. If you live anywhere in eastern North America, I highly recommend this beautiful flower for your yard. It has large pink geranium flowers. Once established, it requires no maintenance, and even though it spreads vegetatively by rhizome, it is never invasive. The bees and other wildlife will also be grateful if you plant them in your yard.

Description of Wild Geranium, Wild Cranesbill Geranium maculatum

Geranium maculatum Stem & Leaves

Geranium maculatum plant w flowers from Allatoona Creek, GA, USA
Geranium maculatum plant w flowers from Allatoona Creek, GA, USA

Herbaceous perennial 30 – 100 cm tall from thick spreading rhizomes that can get quite long and grow 5-10 cm thick. The rhizome allows it to spread vegetatively, though it is not an aggressive spreader, so it does not become invasive where it grows. Stems are green and hairy and arise from the base, and are generally not branched.

Leaves are deeply palmately 5 to 7-lobed and toothed in the top half of the lobes. Leaves are from 3-15 cm across in diameter. They are finely hairy on the upper surface and have more coarse hairs on the lower surface.

The basal leaves arise from long hairy petioles (leaf stalks) up to 30 cm long. Leaves arising from the flower stalk are on much shorter petioles.

Geranium maculatum Flowers

The showy pink to lavender or sometimes white flowers appear anywhere from March to July, depending on location, elevation, exposure, etc.

They appear in loose cymes or umbels of 2 – 3(-5) flowers on top of a stem with 2 palmately lobed leaves. Flowers are large for native geraniums, being 2.5 – 4 cm across with 5 free petals.

The flowers are bisexual with 10 stamens with yellow anthers that turn brown with age. These are clustered around the single pistil with 5 carpels. The style is a single whitish style that splits into 5 forks at the terminal end.

Geranium maculatum Fruits

Its fruit matures about 1 month after blooming is complete. It is a typical geranium fruit, a long, thin erect schizocarp with 5 mericarps. The entire fruit is about 2.5 cm long. It has a characteristic long beak-like structure (giving it the common name of Cranesbill) surrounded by 5 elongated columnar mericarps. The mericarps start to peel open along the seeds and elastically eject a single small, black seed from each of the 5 mericarps.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Geraniums have characteristic foliage and flowers that make them difficult to confuse with most other genera.

However, the following are a few non-related species that could, at first glance, be confused with Geranium maculatum.

  • Cardiac leonurus has, at first glance, geranium-like leaves, but the small burgundy flowers are located in the leaf axils. It is native to North America and Asia.
  • Anemonestrum canadense also has geranium-like leaves and is found in northeast North America, but its 3 whorled leaves are three-lobed. Its white flowers are found singly on top of a stem above and through the center of its whorled leaves and have numerous yellow stamens clustered in the center.
  • Podophyllum peltatum Mayapple has lobed leaves similar to geranium species, but they are much, much larger, and their single white flower appears below its large leaves, and it produces a large round fruit.
  • Hydrastis canadensis Goldenseal is found in northeast North America, but it is becoming increasingly rare. It, like Mayapple, has much larger lobed leaves, and its flower and fruit are found immediately on top of the large leaves. The flowers have showy white stamens that are often mistaken for deeply cut petals.

We have many native and introduced Geraniums throughout North America. Following is a list of species that grow in eastern North America that could be confused with Geranium maculatum.

  • Geranium bicknellii Bicknell’s Cranesbill has much smaller flowers, petals that are notched instead of whole, and more finely cut leaves with the teeth in the top half cut deeply into additional lobes. It is found throughout the northeast and Midwest but less so in the southeastern part of North America.
  • Geranium carolinianum Carolina Geranium is found throughout a very similar range, but it has a much more compact flower cluster with flowers that are a fair bit smaller. The petals are generally much lighter pink and are often bifid. Sepals are often of equal or even greater length than the petals.
  • Geranium robertianum Robert Geranium is found in east and western North America; it is native to Eurasia and northern Africa. It has smaller flowers, more deeply lobed leaves that are also usually a bit smaller, and it has conspicuous characteristic red to pinkish stems.
  • Geranium sylvaticum is an introduced species found sporadically in northeast North America. It has similar leaves, and its flowers are fairly large, 2 – 3 cm across, but they usually have white in the center of their petals, and the style is pink on the outside and white on the inside.
  • Geranium viscosissimum is generally a western species but is occasionally found in the east. It can be differentiated by the fact that its hairs are always sticky and resinous, and it has a solid pink style instead of whitish.
  • Geranium pratense Meadow Geranium is native to Eurasia but was introduced to eastern North America. It can be differentiated by its always bluish or purple flowers with purple anthers that occur in pairs.
  • Geranium sanguineum is also native to Eurasia but is commonly found in North America. It can be differentiated by its more finely divided leaves and its reddish-purple flowers with its obovate-notched petals that are only 1.5 – 2 cm across. Its fruits are also hairy.
  • Geranium macrorrhizum is native to the Alps but has been introduced in North America. It can be differentiated by its strongly exserted pink stamens and pink anthers that are much longer than Geranium maculatum.
  • Geranium lucidum is native to Europe but was introduced in North America. It can be differentiated by its much more rounded leaf lobes and much smaller flowers.

Distribution of Wild Geranium Geranium maculatum

Wild Cranesbill is an eastern North American species.

In Canada, Wild Geranium is found in Manitoba, Ontario, and Quebec.

In the USA, Wild Geranium is found in North & South Dakota, Kansas, Oklahoma, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Wisconsin, Illinois, Michigan, Indiana, Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, North & South Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Washington DC, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine.

It is not found in Mexico.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Geranium maculatum

Wild Geraniums are found in dry to moist woodlands, forest edges, thickets, and meadows. It is not an effective colonizer and, as such, prefers undisturbed locations. It will only rarely be found in disturbed sites.

They require a moderate amount of water, from moist to dry but never permanently wet or arid. The soil they prefer is rich in organic matter, common under the forest canopy, and on the mildly acidic side. However, they have been found growing in neutral to mildly alkaline soils.

They prefer partial shade but can be found in full sun or full shade. However, very few plants grown in full shade ever flower and instead reproduce vegetatively through spreading rhizomes.

Growing Wild Geranium in Your Garden

Make sure that the chosen location in your garden is similar to what it grows in its natural environment. If you have partially shaded woods or the edge of a forest or tree habitat, that would be ideal. Otherwise, grow in partial shade to full sun as long as the soil remains somewhat moist.

Be sure to amend the soil with lots of organic matter and check your soil pH to be sure it is on the acidic side.

Deadheading the flowers (removing dead blossoms) will extend the flowering period.

Plants can be cut back occasionally if they are spreading too far.

Rhizomes can be divided to make new plants to be planted elsewhere or share with your friends to encourage the spread of native species.

Propagation

Seeds should be collected approximately 1 month after the bloom period. Cut the seed heads directly into a paper bag where they should be left to dry, split open, and release their seeds. Seeds should then be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

The seeds may then be sown outdoors in late fall or early spring without any cold treatment. However, the germination rate does increase with cold treatments.

Seeds sown in a greenhouse may sometimes flower in the first year. Otherwise, plants flower in their second or third year.

Rhizome division in fall or early spring is the fastest method of propagation, resulting in the highest success rate and fastest bloom time. Rhizomes are branched and often at right angles, which makes division quite easy. Make sure when you plant it, the crown is at soil level and not below, or it may not flower.

Wildlife Values of Wild Geranium

Seeds attract Mourning Doves, Bobwhite Quail and White-tailed Deer all of which feed on the seeds. White-tailed deer also feed on the flowers and native bees routinely visit the flowers.

Status of Geranium maculatum

Wild Cranesbill is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In Canada, Wild Geranium is considered Locally Secure S5 in Ontario, Imperiled S2 in Quebec and Critically Imperiled S1 in Manitoba.

In the USA, Geranium maculatum is considered Locally Secure S5 in Iowa, Indiana, Kentucky, West Virginia, Virginia, North Carolina, New York, and New Jersey. Wild Geranium is considered Apparently Secure S4 in Delaware. It is considered Imperiled S2 in Kansas. It is considered Critically Imperiled S1 in South Dakota, Nebraska, and Louisiana. In North Dakota, it is considered Possibly Extirpated (locally extinct) SH. In all other states where it is found, its status is not yet determined.

Geranium maculatum is not found in Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses of Geranium maculatum

Geranium maculatum Medicinal Uses

Geranium maculatum was often used by native peoples for a range of ailments. A decoction of the whole plant was used as a wash for thrush in a child’s throat, to clean wounds, and to treat canker sores by the Cherokee. The Chippewa used it dried and powdered for mouth sores.

A decoction of the root was used to treat diarrhea by the Chippewa and Meskwaki, while the Iroquois used an infusion of the entire plant for diarrhea. The Chippewa also used the root as a powerful astringent.

The Iroquois used the root for itchy skin and dermatological problems. They also used it as an emetic, and laxative, for mouth sores and heart problems.

A poultice of the powdered or chewed root was used by Iroquois on a cut umbilical cord immediately after birth as well as for one that had not yet healed.

The Meskwaki and Ojibwa used the root for toothaches and sore gums. Meskwaki also used the root in a poultice for hemorrhoids and burns.

Wild Geranium as an Ornamental

Due to its large showy flowers, Wild Geranium is often used as an ornamental. It grows easily, requires little maintenance once established, and is non-invasive. Wild Geranium makes a great addition to borders, beds, and ground cover.

It can even be found readily in many nurseries and online stores, but note that these are cultivars of the wild type. If you live in eastern North America in particular, please use the wild type to encourage our native ecotypes to thrive in their natural environment as much as possible.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Geranium maculatum

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states. See the above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely leaves and flowers as well as its useful properties.

If you are harvesting Geranium maculatum from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, fruits, roots, or leaves you see.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits, leaves, flowers, or roots can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

To dry the leaves, flowers, or fruits, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry.

Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt and then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

Once dried, the leaves, fruits, flowers, and roots can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference.

Do not grind or crush the plant parts until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

Wildcrafting for Propagation

If you are harvesting seeds for propagation purposes, collect 1 in every 20 fruits you see, cutting them into a paper bag. Then allow them to dry and pop open, then separate the seeds and store them in a sealed container in the fridge. This will help preserve the seeds and increase their germination rate with cold treatment.

If you are harvesting rhizomes for propagation, carefully dig around the parent plant (1 in every 20 plants) and sever a rhizome from the plant, being careful to not disturb the entire plant as much as possible. Then be sure to fill in the hole that you had dug to harvest the rhizome. Bring your rhizome home and plant it as soon as possible in an ideal location (see Habitat & Growing Conditions and Growing Wild Geranium sections above). Do not allow the rhizome to dry out or get too warm in a hot vehicle on the way to its new home.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center on Geranium maculatum https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=gema

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!



Blog

Heracleum mantegazzianum Giant Hogweed - Invasive Species of North America. Photo taken in West Sechelt, BC, Canada by Lyrae Willis
Heracleum mantegazzianum Giant Hogweed – Invasive Species of North America. Photo was taken in West Sechelt, BC, Canada by Lyrae Willis

Introduction

Heracleum mantegazzianum  Giant Hogweed is an invasive species in North America that is still in the early stages of expanding its range. I first encountered it when I grew up in West Sechelt, BC, Canada. It was about 30 years ago. I had no idea what it was at the time, but it just seemed out of place somehow. Not long after, I started getting interested in plants, and I looked into them and discovered that, yes, in fact, it was out of place in my environment. Fortunately for me, at the time, I had not yet touched the plant to experience the phototoxic effects. I did, many years later, accidentally touch a smaller one that was among many other plants. I quickly realized what it was and stepped back immediately, but it still left some permanent discoloration on my hand. That was just from a quick accidental touch. Many others have not been so fortunate, as it causes massive blisters, scarring, and even potential blindness. Keep your children away from it, as many have suffered from contact with it. Unfortunately, it looks very similar to a native species known as Cow Parsnip; see Similar Species Frequently Confused With below.

Description of Heracleum mantegazzianum

Heracleum mantegazzianum Leaves & Stems

Leaves of Heracleum mantegazzianum in spring, Carlson Creek, BC, Canada
Leaves of Heracleum mantegazzianum in spring, Carlson Creek, BC, Canada
Young stem of Heracleum mantegazzianum showing the purple blotches and erect hairs; from BC, Canada
Young stem of Heracleum mantegazzianum showing the purple blotches and erect hairs; from BC, Canada

Heracleum mantegazzianum is a huge monocarpic herbaceous perennial from a branched root system that goes 40-60 cm deep and 15 cm across. It reaches heights of 2-4(5) m with hollow stems 3-10 cm in diameter. The stems are covered in blister-like bumps with erect bristly hairs on them. The stems also usually have purplish splotches on them, helping to differentiate them from Cow Parsnip (see similar species below).

It has very large alternate leaves from a basal rosette. As it grows in height, the leaves get smaller up the stem. The lowermost leaves can reach up to 3 m long and 1.7 m wide when fully mature. Leaves are pinnately or ternately lobed, often deeply so, and are coarsely toothed. The above-ground growth dies back and returns after each winter until it flowers, and then it dies.

Heracleum mantegazzianum Flowers

Side view of inflorescence of Heracleum mantegazzianum showing the umbel structure & the purple blotches on the stem below; from Sechelt, BC, Canada
Side view of inflorescence of Heracleum mantegazzianum showing the umbel structure & the purple blotches on the stem below; from Sechelt, BC, Canada

Being monocarpic, Giant Hogweed flowers between 3-5 years of age before it sets seed and then dies. Its inflorescence is a terminal compound umbel 80(100) cm across made of 50-150 rays of bisexual flowers. Surrounding the large main umbel are up to 8 other smaller satellite umbels, which often grow taller than the main one. These satellite umbels may be all male flowers only or could be bisexual. The flowers themselves are on 10-20 mm long pedicels with white to pinkish petals up to 12 mm long each.

Heracleum mantegazzianum Fruit

Heracleum mantegazzianum fruits are flattened elliptical schizocarps 6-18 mm long and 4-10 mm wide. The fruits are narrowly winged and split into 2 mericarps, each with 3-5 elongated oil ducts.

Heracleum mantegazzianum Toxicity

Heracleum mantegazzianum is extremely phototoxic, particularly when in flower. Upon touching the plant, if then exposed to the sun, it can cause severe hives, blistering, and permanent discoloration of the skin. If the sap from the plant gets in the eyes, it can cause temporary or possibly even permanent blindness.

Similar Species Heracleum mantegazzianum is Confused With

There are a few other genera that Heracleum mantegazzianum can be confused with within North America:

  • Angelica atropurpurea is native to northeast North America, but it has almost entirely purple stems and grows to 1.8 m tall. Its inflorescence is much more rounded rather than flat-topped and only up to 20 cm wide. Its leaves are also much smaller, softer, and divided into 3 parts, each with its own petiole.
  • Daucus carota wild carrot is widely introduced in North America and appears similar superficially, but it also grows to much smaller sizes, has smaller flower heads, and smells like a carrot.
  • Poison Hemlock Conium maculatum is sometimes confused with Giant Hogweed. However, it has tripinnate leaves that look fern-like and are very soft to the touch. It also gives off a foul odor not found in Hogweed.
  • Pastinaca sativa Parsnip is occasionally confused with Giant Hogweed, but its flowers are yellow instead of white and its large leaves have long petioles, and the plant smells of parsnip.

There are also similar species in the same genus, which may be more difficult to tell apart. They can be differentiated as follows:

  • Heracleum maximum (Heracleum lanatum or Heracleum sphondylium subsp. montanum, there is some debate as to its proper taxonomy) is referred to as Cow Parsnip and is native to North America. While it does look strikingly similar, it grows to only 2 m but never to the 4 m that Giant Hogweed can reach. Its leaves, while still lobed, are not as deeply cut as Giant Hogweed, and it lacks the purplish spots on its stems that are commonly found on the latter. Its flower head produces much fewer rays, only 15-50 per umbel, and the main umbel is usually no more than 30 cm across. Furthermore, Giant Hogweed is found only in some states and provinces, while Cow Parsnip is widespread throughout most of North America.
  • Heracleum sphondylium German Hogweed has been sporadically introduced throughout the USA and southern Canada. It can be differentiated by its smaller size of 1.2 m tall and its pinnate leaves that are pinnately lobed rather than whole leaves that are deeply divided. The leaves are also not as sharply lobed as that of Giant Hogweed.

Native Distribution of Heracleum mantegazzianum

Heracleum mantegazzianum is native to the southern slopes of the Western Greater Caucasus of southern Russia and Georgia. It has spread much further in Russia and eastern Europe in the last century, and it is believed that at least some of this spread has been of natural origin.

Habitat Types Where Giant Hogweed is Found

In its native environment, Giant Hogweed occupies a wide range of habitats from 50-2000 m in elevation with between 1000-2000 mm of annual rainfall. It thrives in temperate continental climates with hot summers and cold winters. There it is typically found in meadows, forest edges, and clearings.

In areas where it is introduced, it also occupies a wide range of habitats and is often found growing along roadsides, train tracks, rivers, riparian areas, grasslands, meadows, and waste sites.

It grows in a wide range of soil types from heavy to light, seasonally waterlogged to well-drained, and alkaline to neutral, but less often in acidic soils. It does not tolerate wet soils that experience long periods of inundation.

Heracleum mantegazzianum is normally reported in full sun to part shade conditions in North America. However, it has also been found to grow in full shade in some areas.

Human Uses of Heracleum mantegazzianum

The seeds of Heracleum mantegazzianum are used in some Middle Eastern cooking as a spice known as golpar. In its native habitat, beekeepers use the plants for honey production. There were also some reports of people eating the cooked stems, though this is not recommended due to the phototoxicity.

Distribution of Heracleum mantegazzianum in North America

The species was first recorded in New York, USA, in 1917 and had made its way to western North America by the 1930s. It was likely brought as a garden curiosity due to its impressive size. Alternatively, it could have been brought through spice importation since its seeds are sometimes used in Middle Eastern cuisine.

In Canada, Heracleum mantegazzianum has been recorded in British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland (excluding Labrador).

In the USA, Giant Hogweed is found in Washington and Oregon in the west and in Illinois, Michigan, Pennsylvania, North Carolina, New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Maine in the eastern States.

So far, in Mexico, Heracleum mantegazzianum has not yet been reported.

Globally Giant Hogweed is also considered an invasive species in much of Europe and New Zealand, and it appears to have recently been introduced to South America.

How Giant Hogweed Spreads

Heracleum mantegazzianum is primarily spread over long-distance by deliberate human introductions as an ornamental as well the importation of the seeds as a condiment. Sometimes the seeds are also found as a contaminant in the international food trade. Its preference for riparian habitats also has enabled its spread by long distances via seeds floating down rivers.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through water, high winds, animals, and sometimes birds. Dispersal can also occur through humans transporting soil and on vehicles or clothing.

Most seeds in the field germinate the following year, but the seeds can remain viable in the soil bank for up to 7 years.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Heracleum mantegazzianum spreads mostly through water, humans, and animals and frequently is reported along roadsides as well as riparian areas where it spreads by the movement of water. In multiple locations in North America, where it has spread via waterways along the banks, it has since moved into the adjacent woodlands, grasslands, and fields. Due to its tolerance to a wide range of elevations (50-2000 m), soil types, and sun, most habitats are at risk of invasion.

However, it will not grow in permanently wet soils or arid climates without access to water. It also generally will not penetrate deeply into dense forests, but it will grow readily in open forests and forest edges. Its range is still in the early stages of expansion in North America and will continue if left unchecked.

Impacts of Invasion

In addition to the risks of phototoxicity and potential blindness, there are other impacts of invasion. Due to its large size and phototoxic effects, it can impede access to water, trails, and recreational areas.

Giant Hogweed also negatively impacts soil dynamics because some studies have shown that it decomposes more slowly than native species resulting in a slower turnover of organic matter. The annual litter that it produces can also smother nearby native species preventing their germination or regrowth.

Studies by fisheries in the USA have shown that Heracleum mantegazzianum can shade native species in riparian areas and eventually replace them. This has been shown to increase erosion due to the herbaceous nature of the plant and the timing of flooding, leaving bare soil prone to increased erosion. This can negatively impact flooding as well as habitat for native fish.

Because Giant Hogweed grows to such massive sizes, it can shade out native vegetation anywhere it is allowed to grow. Actual studies on species richness have been conflicting, however, where it has been shown to increase in grassland habitats and a decrease in woodlands where it has invaded. Data on its impacts on species richness in North America are lacking altogether, but it is safe to assume that it will have a negative impact on most habitats.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Heracleum mantegazzianum provides virtually no wildlife value as most wildlife does not eat the plant, and birds seldom eat the seeds. Bees do visit the flowers, however, including native bees. But as with all invasive species, if they were not present, the native bees would find other native flowers instead.

Methods to Remove Heracleum mantegazzianum

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and sometimes can still be found in your local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Giant Hogweed, and do not plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Physical Control of Giant Hogweed

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming, but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

Safety PPE to Use During Removal

Physical methods to remove Giant Hogweed are challenging due to the phototoxic side effects of physical contact. Proper PPE will help prevent any temporary or permanent damage to your skin or eyes. Do not attempt to handle the plant in any way without proper PPE. Gloves must always be worn while handling the plant at any stage of growth. Also, wear a thick long sleeve shirt and jeans or other suitable pants made of thick fabric to ensure that they cannot make contact with your skin. Wearing a hat with mosquito netting is also highly recommended to prevent it from coming into contact with your face. Safety glasses are also highly recommended to prevent possible temporary or permanent blindness should any sap get into your eyes. See the Affiliates link at the bottom for suitable PPE.

Dealing With Young Plants

The best time to remove Giant Hogweed is when the plants are young. At this time, they can be hand-pulled wearing gloves or using a weed puller. Try to get the root as much as possible.

Dealing With Mature Plants

If the plant is already large, this makes removal much more challenging. It becomes difficult to remove the above-ground plant growth, and the rootstock also gets quite large and deep. In this case, it is more effective to wait until the flowering year and then remove all flower heads. Because it is monocarpic, it will only flower for one season, and then the plant will die. To remove the flower heads, simply cut them off into a garbage bag while wearing gloves. Do not dispose of the flower heads without solarizing them in the garbage bag first, as the heads will continue to ripen even once cut off from the plant.

You will likely need to bring a footstool or a small ladder with you to reach the top of the larger plants. You will need to return to the site a few times that season as it often will produce new flower heads. If it has gone to seed at any time, be extra careful to cut the heads directly into the garbage bag to prevent the seeds from dropping on the ground. If there are any seeds at all, be sure to return to the site the following year to destroy any seedlings while they are still small enough to easily pull out by hand while wearing gloves.

Another method to deal with mature plants is to sever their taproot or destroy the crown by digging 10-15 cm below the soil and severing it. This method can destroy a mature plant before it flowers. This can still be challenging, however, due to the size of the plant. The above-ground growth will, in most cases, need to first be removed so that you can even get close enough to the taproot or crown to destroy it.

Mechanical Removal

Mechanical removal has been shown to be ineffective, as the plants will return from their hearty rootstock after they have been cut or mowed. Repeated mowings also have proven ineffective. Sometimes repeated mowings have been seen to turn the plant into a perennial that will flower multiple times before dying instead of the monocarpic perennial that naturally only flowers once and dies. Mechanical removal is not recommended. Burning is also ineffective for the same reason that it will likely regrow from its hearty taproot.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

If you have plants that have seeds on them, they must either be burned or solarized. If you are unable to burn in your area, then you must solarize them. To solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 8-10 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. Some sources recommend shorter solarization periods but differential heat in the bags or under the tarps, cloud cover, and other temperature variances make shorter periods less reliable. That is why it is important they are solarized for as long as possible if using that method.

Chemical Control of Giant Hogweed

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches always significantly increase.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Giant Hogweed. And because it often grows in or near riparian areas, chemical control cannot be used there due to risks to fish and humans.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Heracleum mantegazzianum

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. These control methods are often extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also usually not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there.

The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective.

At this time, the only known biological control method of Heracleum mantegazzianum is the use of intensive grazing by sheep or goats and rooting by pigs. Cattle will selectively avoid eating it, as with most invasive species, so they are not a suitable control method.

Using sheep, goats, and pigs can be challenging, however, because of the phototoxicity issue. Animals with thick, dark pelts are more resistant to toxic side effects. The area of control will need to be penned in, and the sheep or goats be allowed to graze for the first season to destroy the above-ground growth. The following year pigs can be let in to root out the roots and eat them as well as any sprouts as they come up. If pigs are unavailable, then the sheep or goats can be left in there for multiple seasons, and an integrated approach can be used for stubborn plants that keep re-sprouting. In this case, you will need to use physical control by manually destroying the crown or severing the taproot using a shovel.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form, this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In many cases of removal, the site will need to be replanted because the bare soil will allow the seed bank of this and other potentially invasive species to germinate. Single isolated plants can simply be destroyed or dealt with using physical control, and then native species will regrow in their absence. Occasionally, however, Giant Hogweed will produce a large patch. In those cases, a replanting program should be planned and ready to implement upon removal.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Giant Hogweed removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Seeds will also continue to germinate for several years if the plant was fully established in the area and not an isolated case. Seedling removal is by far the easiest method of control. The area should be monitored once a year for several years after the plants were removed to ensure they do not become re-established.

References and Resources

CABI on Heracleum mantegazzianum https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/26911

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Fire Effects Information System on Giant Hogweed https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/forb/herman/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Rhododendron albiflorum White-Flowered Rhododendron - Native to North America

Rhododendron albiflorum photo from the Monashee Mountain Range of British Columbia, Canada, by Lyrae Willis
Rhododendron albiflorum photo from the Monashee Mountain Range of British Columbia, Canada, by Lyrae Willis

White Rhododendron or Cascade Azalea Rhododendron albiflorum – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

I first found the White-Flowered Rhododendron, also sometimes called the Cascade Azalea, high in the subalpine forests of the Caren Range on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia. I was so excited to see a native Rhododendron that was so lovely and so hardy that it grew so high in the mountains. It has gorgeous large white fragrant flowers that capture the eye and lovely shiny light green foliage. Rhododendron albiflorum is native to the Pacific Northwest of the USA and to southern British Columbia and Alberta, Canada. It is a native shrub of the Ericaceae family in the Ericales Order of flowering dicots. If you live in the mountains in this area, I truly recommend going out and seeing it for yourself, or even trying growing it in your yard. Either way, it is a lovely shrub, and you will not be disappointed!

Description of Cascade Azalea Rhododendron albiflorum

Stem & Leaves

Rhododendron albiflorum is a native shrub of the Ericaceae family in the Ericales Order of flowering dicots. It grows from rhizomes and reaches heights of approximately 2.5 m. Its stems may be mostly smooth to furrowed and have unbranched hairs that are not glandular and are usually reddish in color.

The deciduous leaves are narrowly elliptic or ovate to obovate and 2 – 9 cm long by 0.8 – 3 cm wide. They are thin, membranous to chartaceous, and the margins are minutely serrated and ciliate when young. Leaves are hairy when young, and hairs may or may not be stipitate-glandular. Hairs may remain with age, or they may become more or less glabrescent. The apex of the leaf is acute to more or less rounded. Leaves are on hairy petioles (leaf stalks).

Flowers & Fruits

The pleasantly fragrant and somewhat pendulous flowers appear in later spring and summer soon after the leaves open up. They appear in axillary fasciculate inflorescences on 9 – 15 mm pedicels that are hairy and may or may not be stipitate-glandular. Its calyx lobes are 5-17 mm long, eglandular and stipitate-glandular-hairy, and its margins are also glandular-hairy. The partially connate (fused) petals are white and, on rare occasions, may be marked with yellow. They are basally fused into a 6 – 15 mm tube that spreads into five 3 – 9 mm long lobes that may be glabrous or minutely hairy. Flowers are cyathiform (bowl-shaped) and 9 – 22 mm in diameter. There are 9 (-12) stamens that are not exserted and are somewhat unequal in length, varying from 5.5 – 14 mm long.

White-Flowered Rhododendron fruits are capsules that are borne on erect pedicels. Capsules measure 6 – 8 mm long by 5 – 6 mm wide and are hairy. Hairs may be eglandular, stipitate-glandular, or unicellular hairy. The seeds have distinct tails on them, and their testa is closely appressed.

Toxicity

Although no mention of toxicity of this particular species could be found, all parts of plants of the Rhododendron genus are considered toxic, though rarely lethal to humans and occasionally to livestock and pets. Even though native people occasionally ingested it as medicine, it is no longer recommended for internal consumption today.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Rhododendron albiflorum is unique from other species of its genus with its white axillary flowers that are nearly actinomorphic and somewhat pendulous. However, the following are the most frequently confused members of its genus that grow in their range.

  • Rhododendron menziesii – this is what it is most often confused with due to similar leaves, size, and habitat preferences. However, once in flower, they are easy to distinguish because of the small urn-shaped, somewhat orange or pinkish flowers of Rhododendron menziesii.
  • Rhododendron occidentale – this also grows to similar sizes with similar leaves, but its range does not really overlap as it is found in coastal Oregon south to California, while Rhododendron albiflorum is only found in the Cascades in Oregon (somewhat inland). Also, the flowers of Rhododendron occidentale are white and yellow with longer lobes and are not bowl-shaped.
  • Rhododendron columbianum – this grows to similar sizes but is usually shorter. It is also found in some of the same range but only grows in wet habitats. Finally, its inflorescences are always terminal, not axillary, and the flowers are not pendulous.

Distribution of Cascade Azalea Rhododendron albiflorum

White-Flowered Rhododendron is found only in Western Canada and the Pacific Northwest of the USA.

In Canada, Cascade Azalea is found in British Columbia and Alberta (in the mountains of Alberta).

In the USA, Rhododendron albiflorum is found in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and Montana. There is also a disjunct population, sometimes called Rhododendron albiflorum var warrenii found in Colorado that is morphologically unique and considered Critically Imperiled.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of White-Flowered Rhododendron

White-Flowered Rhododendron is found mostly in montane subalpine and alpine habitats from 800 – 3500 m above sea level. They are typically found in coniferous forests, alpine thickets, stream banks, and seeps on rocky outcrops in the mountains.

Cascade Azalea will grow in full sun, part shade, or shade and grows in moist, wet, or dry soil types. However, it prefers full sun to partial shade and moist or wet soil.

Growing Rhododendron albiflorum in Your Garden

Rhododendron albiflorum is very cold-hardy, down to -30° C when dormant. However, flowers and new growth can be damaged by late frosts in the spring. They are best grown in light woodland shade in peaty or well-drained sandy loam soil with an acidic pH between 4.5 and 5.5. They will not grow well in dry arid soils, alkaline soils, or heavy clay soils.

The rootstock of Rhododendron species is surface-rooting, so do not allow other plants to grow on their roots. They form a root ball, though, which makes them relatively easy to transplant as long as the root ball is kept intact. If collecting a plant from the wild, always follow ethical wildcrafting principles and take only one small plant from a large healthy patch. Alternatively, you could air-layer several plants in the summer and then harvest them 14-24 months later. This is the easiest method of propagation. Cuttings of half-ripe wood are difficult to get to sprout roots.

If you ethically wildcraft some seeds, these are best harvested in the autumn and then sown that same autumn in a greenhouse with artificial light. Or, you could sow them in a cold greenhouse in mid-spring. Surface-sow the seeds and do not allow the soil to dry out. Pot the young plants and grow them in a greenhouse the first winter.

Wildlife Values of White-Flowered Rhododendron

Bees of all kinds will visit the flowers when in bloom. Otherwise, the toxicity of the genus prevents most wildlife from utilizing the plants. However, small birds are sometimes seen roosting on them, and small ground-dwelling rodents and lizards will use the thickets for cover.

Status of Rhododendron albiflorum

White-Flowered Rhododendron is considered Globally Secure, G5. It is currently not listed at all on the IUCN Red List.

In Canada, Rhododendron albiflorum is Locally Secure S5 in both provinces where it is found, British Columbia and Alberta.

In the USA, Rhododendron albiflorum is considered Vulnerable S3 in Montana and Critically Imperiled S2 in Colorado. The disjunct Colorado population has a smaller calyx and shorter stamens and is sometimes considered a separate variety of Rhododendron albiflorum var warrenii. In Washington, Oregon, and Idaho, it has not yet been ranked.

Cascade Azalea is not found outside of the western USA and western Canada.

Traditional or Other Uses of Cascade Azalea

Cascade Azalea as Food

The Okanagan-Colville people used to make tea with the leaves of Cascade Azalea. The Thompson used the branches in the bottoms and tops of their berry-picking baskets to keep their berries fresh.

Rhododendron albiflorum Medicinal Uses

The Okanagan and the Thompson both used a poultice of powdered burned wood mixed with grease for swellings and a decoction of the bark for stomach ailments. The Skokomish used a decoction of the buds for colds and sore throats. They also chewed the buds for an ulcerated stomach and applied the chewed buds as a poultice for cuts.

White-Flowered Rhododendron as an Ornamental

Sometimes Cascade Azalea is used as an ornamental shrub in gardens where conditions are right. It is a low-maintenance plant with gorgeous fragrant flowers. The Thompson native peoples also used the plant as a fragrance at times.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Rhododendron albiflorum

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states. See the above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely fragrant flowers.

If you are harvesting Rhododendron albiflorum from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, branches, buds, or plants you see.

Wildcrafting

If you are wanting to grow Rhododendron albiflorum in your garden, air-layering is the most successful method of propagation and the least impactful on the wild populations.

Air layering is very simple. All you need is some moss (which can be collected on-site), water, plastic, garden twine, and a knife. Use a knife to cut a small wound into a branch where you want it to root. Be sure not to cut too deep and never cut all the way around a branch, or it will die above the cut. Then wrap the wounded area in moistened moss. Wrap the moss in some plastic. I just cut thick plastic bags into pieces for this purpose. Then tie it on with some garden twine to ensure it stays on there.

Create several plants at the same time and return about 14-24 months later to harvest your new plants by cutting them off just below the plastic and twine. Bring the plastic and twine home with you to dispose of accordingly. Then simply pot up your new plants or plant them directly in the ground in suitable soil in a suitable location.

Picked buds and leaves can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

Processing

To dry the leaves or buds, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Once dried, the leaves and buds can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference. Do not grind or crush the leaves or roots until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Useful Temperate Plants on Rhododendron albiflorum http://temperate.theferns.info/plant/Rhododendron+albiflorum

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Ilex aquifolium English Holly - Invasive Plants of North America

Removal of invasive English Holly - Ilex aquifolium - young shrubs are easy to remove by hand before the roots get too large.
Ilex aquifolium aka English, European, Common or Christmas Holly, an aggressive invasive species in North America

Introduction

Ilex aquifolium goes by several common names, including English Holly, European Holly, Common Holly, and Christmas Holly. It is a highly invasive plant in the moist climates of North America, particularly on the west coast, where it is beginning to dominate the understory of some forest ecosystems. Despite this, it is still widely sold in stores throughout this region.

I grew up on the coast of BC, Canada, and remember finding it all the time under the canopy of the forest. I recently returned to the coast and spent some time there and was horrified by the amount it appears to be spreading and replacing our native understory species. In a single forest walk, I managed to pull out about 40 immature plants from the forest canopy. There were several larger ones I could not pull out by hand due to their deep and aggressive root system.

Next time I return to the coast and go for a forest walk, I will be sure to bring a trowel or a small shovel. Do your part on your forest walks and pull out any small holly shrubs you find growing before they get large and too difficult to remove. Just make sure you are not pulling Oregon Grape or native hollies if you live on the east coast; see Similar Species below for more information.

Description of Ilex aquifolium

Leaves & Stems of Ilex aquifolium

Common Holly is a slow-growing evergreen perennial shrub or small tree that grows from 5-25 m tall. However, it usually only grows to the shorter 5-10 m shrub height. It may grow from a single trunk, or it may be multi-stemmed. Their trunks are usually less than 40 cm in diameter. Larger trunks can be from 40-80 cm in diameter, but they rarely exceed 100 cm. The bark is green when young but turns grey when it matures. While specimens as old as 500 years have been reported, it seldom lives longer than 100 years.

The leaves of English Holly are arranged alternately on the branches. They are tough, thick, and glossy green and measure 3-12 cm long and 2-6 cm wide. The margins are often characteristically undulate (wavy) and toothed with spiny tipped teeth. Sometimes the leaf margins are smooth, particularly on older specimens.

Flowers & Fruits of Ilex aquifolium

English Holly is a dioecious plant meaning that there are separate male and female plants. The flowers are whitish and have 4 petals and 4 sepals that are both fused near their base. In males, the flowers are usually more yellowish and appear in axillary groups (in clusters in the leaf axils). Female specimens have single flowers or in groups of three, and the flowers or white or somewhat pink. The male and female shrubs are impossible to tell apart until they begin to flower from 4 – 12 years of age.

Fruits are small red or yellow drupes, berry-like in appearance, and only grow on female plants. They are 6-10 mm in diameter. Each drupe contains 3-4 small stony seeds.

Toxicity of Ilex aquifolium

The drupes are toxic to humans and pets, causing vomiting and diarrhea, but they are generally not lethal. Birds typically eat them later in the winter after the frosts have softened them and made them less bitter; they are immune to their toxic effects.

Similar Species Ilex aquifolium is Frequently Confused With

There are a few other plant genera that have similar leaves to Ilex aquifolium. The Oregon-Grape genus Berberis of which we have a few native species growing in North America have evergreen spiny-toothed leaves, but their leaves are opposite rather than alternate, and they have blue-colored berries rather than red or yellow drupes. Osmanthus heterophyllus or Holly Olive is a member of the olive family native to Europe that also has similar leaves and has been introduced in the USA. Holly Olive differs from true hollies by its opposite rather than alternate leaves and bark that turns grayish to blackish with age and has a characteristic cracking pattern to it.

The other Ilex species can be distinguished as follows:

  • Ilex opaca American Holly – native to the eastern and south-central USA. It has matte yellowish-green leaves that are seldom glossy, as in Ilex aquifolium. Its trunk is grey with wart-like bumps, and its mature branches turn brown rather than grey. It also grows more of a tree than a shrub, with trunk diameters commonly of 50 cm and up to 120 cm in diameter.
  • Ilex cornuta Chinese Holly – native to China but widely introduced throughout the eastern and south-central USA. It has more rectangular-shaped leaves with only 5 (4) spines, but they are glossy green like Ilex aquifolium. Chinese Holly never grows to tree size, it rarely exceeds 3 m in height, and its drupes are larger than European Holly. The bark is smooth and grey but becomes flaky with age.
  • Ilex vomitoria Yaupon Holly – native to southeastern North America. It is a small tree or shrub with glossy green leaves, but the leaves are much smaller and are not spiny. Instead, the leaves have crenate or coarsely serrated margins.

Native Distribution of Ilex aquifolium

European or Common Holly is native to western and southern Europe, northwest Africa, and southwest Asia.

Habitat Types Where European Holly is Found

European or Common Holly is typically found growing under forest canopies, oak, and beech, especially in its native range. It typically requires moist and shady environments, making it particularly suitable as an undergrowth species in any moist forest. Also, it is common on moist and shady slopes, cliffs, and mountain gorges. Sometimes, however, it can also form dense thickets in more open fields and meadows. It is a rugged pioneer species that can tolerate both frosts and droughts.

Human Uses of Common Holly

European or Common Holly is widely used as an ornamental shrub or small tree in gardens. It is also extremely popular in Christmas decorations, where it is put in wreaths, garlands, and various other displays.

In traditional European herbal medicine, the leaves of Ilex aquifolium were used as a diuretic, to treat fevers, and as a laxative. It is seldom used in modern herbal medicine, however, and its berries are considered toxic, so the plant should be used with caution.

Distribution of Ilex aquifolium in North America

In Canada, Ilex aquifolium has been recorded as introduced in BC and possibly in Ontario. It is becoming particularly invasive in coastal BC.

In the USA, English Holly is found in Washington, Oregon, and California in the west and Virginia and New Jersey in the east. It has also been introduced in Hawaii. According to iNaturalist, it is located in many more states, but many may still be in cultivation, and some could be native Ilex spp that have been misidentified.

In Mexico, Ilex aquifolium has not yet been reported so far.

English Holly has been introduced on every continent. It seems particularly bad in New Zealand, Tasmania, and North America.

How English Holly Spreads

It is primarily spread long-distance by deliberate human introductions as an ornamental species in gardens.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through birds that eat the abundant drupes later in winter after they have softened and their taste improves. They spread the seeds through their feces, where the seeds then germinate in any suitable habitat in both shade and sun.

English Holly also spreads readily vegetatively through suckering. This is how most of the thickets of Common Holly form and how it becomes a dominant understory species of the forests.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

The way that English Holly spreads through the feces of birds puts all habitats at risk providing there is enough moisture. They will not grow in permanently wet wetlands, and they also will not grow in arid or semi-arid areas. Any moderately moist to the wet climate, however, is at risk of invasion.

Their ability to grow in both sun and shade makes them a common invader of forests in particular but also roadsides, fields, meadows, cliffs, gorges, and anywhere else as long as there is ample moisture.

European Holly has proven to be particularly invasive in the temperate rainforests of northwestern North America, where it easily invades the mixed forest canopies and thrives in the moist environment there.

Impacts of Invasion

Ilex aquifolium has deep and aggressive roots that tend to out-compete the native species for nutrients and water. There is also evidence that English Holly alters the soil conditions by adding sulfur and large amounts of organic matter to the soil, which makes the conditions less hospitable for native species.

English Holly forms dense thickets that can dominate the understory of the forest and out-shade native shrubs and other native plants, reducing the biodiversity of the forests it invades.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Thickets of Ilex aquifolium are known to be used as a refuge by small birds and deer. The flowers are attractive to bees, small butterflies, wasps, and flies, and the berries provide an important late-winter food source. However, as with all invasive plants, the native wildlife would have depended on the native plants that grew there before the Common Holly replaced them.

Methods to Remove English Holly

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any European Holly, and never plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and stop selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

If you live in the eastern part of North America, why not grow one of the two native hollies instead, Ilex opaca or Ilex vomitoria? If you live in western North America and want some spiny glossy green foliage, try growing native Berberis species instead. They have lovely foliage and beautiful blue-colored berries. The native Ilex and Berberis species can even be substituted for Common Holly in Christmas decorations.

Physical Control of European Holly

Young Ilex aquifolium can easily be pulled out by hand if small enough. 
This is one of many I pulled out by hand on one of my forest walks.
Young Ilex aquifolium can easily be pulled out by hand if small enough.
This is one of many I pulled out by hand on one of my forest walks.

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but causes the least amount of environmental damage.

Physical methods to remove European Holly generally involve uprooting the plants. This is best done when the plants are young before their aggressive roots have had a chance to establish themselves. Fortunately, they are a slow-growing species, so on a single walk through the forest, you can single-handedly destroy dozens of young plants with very little effort. Larger plants will need to be dug out with a shovel to get their roots. If the roots are not dug out, they can re-grow from the stump.

For larger shrubby plants, use pruners to remove the upper growth before using a shovel to dig out the root mass. For tree forms of Ilex aquifolium you can try girdling it. This involves removing a strip of bark from all the way around the circumference of the tree. As with all trees and woody shrubs, the only part of the tree’s trunk that is alive and transporting nutrients is the layer directly under the bark. If you cut down to the heartwood and remove the bark in a strip all around the tree, it can no longer transport water and nutrients to the leaves. The tree will then die and can be left to rot or be removed.

The best time to remove European Holly is before it is in berry, in the spring or early summer. If you need to remove them when in berry, be sure to clip off the berries before removing the shrub or tree and place them in the bag for proper disposal.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

Trees or shrubs without berries on them can be burned, cut into firewood, or left to rot. If you have plants that have mature berries on them, they must either be burned or solarized. If you are unable to burn in your area, then solarizing is a viable option. To solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags. Then leave them in the full sun for a good 8 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. The plants can then be disposed of. They can be brought to a garbage dump where you can inform them they are an invasive species so they can deal with them accordingly.

Chemical Control of European Holly

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increase.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only European Holly. If you do use chemical control, it must be stem injected. The tough evergreen leaves readily resist the absorption of pesticides making foliar applications ineffective.

Chemical control is generally not recommended.

Biological Control of Ilex aquifolium

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other biological agent to control an invasive species once it is fully established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective for some invasive species.

Unfortunately, there are no current methods of biological control for English Holly in North America other than goats. Domestic goats are aggressive and non-selective browsers. They will literally eat anything. This will work best on shrubs and thickets. Often goats will eat the bark off of trees so that they can even kill off the trees if they manage to eat all the way around the tree.

To use goats, the patch should be penned in, and then the goats left there to graze for at least 2 years. They will eventually destroy all the above-ground growth and then eat the new sprouts as they come up. This can then be followed with rootstock removal for any stubborn plants that may remain. Alternatively, simply leave the goats in the area for another year until you see no more sprouts. At this time, they can be moved to another patch, and that patch can be replanted with native vegetation. An ongoing monitoring program should then be implemented to be sure they do not sprout again.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest form, this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings. Otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Sometimes Crucial

Removal of single plants from the understory of the forest will not require replanting with native species. Simply remove and monitor, and other plants will grow in their place. However, in cases of the removal of thickets that dominate the area, the site should be replanted with native species. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement once the English Holly has been removed. You will need to research species that are native to your area. Ideally, use ones from your local environment to ensure local ecotypes are represented. Alternatively, you can purchase suitable plants from a nursery in your area that specializes in native species.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive European Holly removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Sometimes roots left behind will re-sprout into new plants. Furthermore, birds will keep bringing in new seedlings if there are still plants in the wider surrounding environment. For these reasons, yearly monitoring should be put in place to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established, especially since that is the easiest time to remove them. With ongoing monitoring, we can keep invasive species in check and promote local biodiversity in the process.

References and Resources

Best Management Practices for English Holly in the Metro Vancouver Region http://www.metrovancouver.org/services/regional-planning/PlanningPublications/EnglishHollyBMP.pdf

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Ilex aquifolium https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ilex_aquifolium

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Fouquieria splendens Ocotillo - Native Plant of North America

Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens plant growth form with flowers
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens plant growth form with flowers
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup

Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens – Native Plants of North America

Introduction

Fouquieria splendens Ocotillo is part of a small genus of 11 plant species and the only genus in the very small family of Fouquieriaceae. The entire family is endemic to the arid southwestern US and northern Mexican deserts. At first glance, you might think it is related to the Cactaceae family in the Caryophyllales order. However, they are not at all related. The Fouquieriaceae are part of the Ericales order. If you take a close look at their flowers, you will see they resemble Ericaceae far more than they do Cactaceae. Only their spiny stems and their love of arid deserts resemble the Cactaceae family.

It is an interesting and unique plant and a great low-maintenance addition to any southern USA or northern Mexico garden. Once established, simply enjoy its beauty, no need to water or fertilize. Many of the 11 species of this genus are endangered and have very limited geographical ranges. If you have any in your yard, please allow them to grow and help propagate them.

Description of Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens

Stem & Leaves of Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo is a shrub with multiple semi-succulent greenish spreading, but upright stems that branch heavily from its base but rarely again after that. Younger stems are green and capable of photosynthesis, but older stems turn grey. Stems grow to 10 m tall and 5 cm in diameter near the base. The stems are covered in spines from hardened petioles (leaf stalks) from the previous season’s leaves. It is a slow-growing dry, season deciduous shrub that may live up to 200 years.

Leaves and spines of Fouquieria splendens - Olive Lee State Park, New Mexico
Leaves and spines of Fouquieria splendens – Olive Lee State Park, New Mexico

Its first leaves on new growth produce a petiole (leaf stalk) which hardens into a sharp spine that remains after the leaf falls off. After a rain, its new green leaves sprout from below the spiny petioles and may persist for weeks or months. Leaves are 2 – 4 cm long and ovate in shape.

Flowers & Fruits of Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup from Mohave County, Arizona
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup from Mohave County, Arizona
Fresh fruits of Fouquieria splendens  from Carlsbad, NM, USA
Fresh fruits of Fouquieria splendens from Carlsbad, NM, USA

The crimson red flowers appear in spring and summer in dense terminal clusters 15 – 25 cm long at the ends of the stems. They have 5 overlapping sepals and 5 petals that are connate (joined) into a slightly zygomorphic tube. They have several exserted stamens with crimson red filaments topped with yellow anthers. They are filled with nectar and feed the native hummingbirds.

Its fruit is a green seed-filled capsule that turns brown when ripe.

Similar Species Fouquieria splendens is Frequently Confused With

With its spreading stems, lack of branches, small leaves, and cactus-like appearance, this rules out confusion with cacti due to the presence of leaves (exceedingly rare in Cactaceae) and its spreading habit that does not resemble any cactus in its range. The red tubular flowers on a cactus-like plant also make it difficult to confuse with other genera or families. However, there are 11 species of Fouquieria in North America, though most are quite rare and many are endangered. Following are 7 of the more well-known species and how to differentiate them from Ocotillo.

  • Fouquieria burragei – a micro endemic species restricted to the gulf coast of Baja California Sur where it is also considered endangered. It grows 3 – 7 m tall and has a more spreading habit giving the overall shape a fan-like appearance rather than the tall columnar branches of Ocotillo. It also has white to red flowers with numerous exserted stamens.
  • Fouquieria columnaris – this is a strange tree-like species growing to 20 m tall with a single columnar trunk with a diameter of up to 25 cm. It has a very narrow range being restricted to Baja California, northern Baja California Sur, and a small population off the coast of Sonora.
  • Fouquieria diguetii – this one is restricted to Baja California, Baja California Sur and the coasts of Sonora and Sinaloa. It grows 1.8 – 3 m tall. Its leaves are dark green and elliptic up to 2 cm long
  • Fouquieria formosa – this one is restricted to central and southern Mexico with a limited range. It grows up to 10 m in height, reaching small tree-size proportions. Its range does not seem to overlap with Ocotillo.
  • Fouquieria macdougalii – this one is restricted to Sonora, Sinaloa, and the eastern edge of Chihuahua. It is a tree Ocotillo with a trunk 1 – 2 m tall and up to 40 cm wide. It has branching stems that hang pendulously on the ends (unlike Fouquieria splendens) and grow to a total of up to 11 m.
  • Fouquieria purpusii – this one is restricted to Puebla and Oaxaca, and its range likely does not overlap with Ocotillo. It has a unique bulbous stem at the base and white flowers. It is endangered.
  • Fouquieria shrevei – this is a rare micro-endemic species of Coahuila and Durango that is restricted to some gypsum outcroppings. It grows to 3 m tall and has white instead of red flowers, and its leaves are broader than any of the other species in the genus. It is an endangered species.

Distribution of Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo is found only in the Sonoran, Chihuahua, and Colorado deserts of the southwestern USA and northern Mexico.

In the USA, Ocotillo is found in California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas.

In Mexico, Fouquieria splendens is found in Baja California, Baja California Norte, Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Durango, Coahuila, Tamaulipas, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, Queretaro, Hidalgo, and Puebla. It is not found south of Puebla.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Ocotillo

Ocotillo is a desert-dwelling shrub. It prefers open and very rocky habitats like rocky slopes, mesas, washes, and desert grasslands. It grows in full sun to part shade in well-drained soil that remains dry most of the year. Fouquieria splendens prefers sandy or rocky loam, limestone, or granite-based soils with a neutral to alkaline pH of 7 – 9. It is tolerant of mild freezing temperatures and is very drought tolerant.

Growing Fouquieria splendens in Your Garden

If you live in the arid or semi-arid southern USA or northern Mexico, Ocotillo is a terrific landscape shrub. Once established, it requires little to no maintenance, not even water, unless in an overly-extended period of drought. They are resilient plants and generally will only die if you over-water them. Plant them, and once established, ignore them completely, and they will thrive. If you do water, never do so more than once per month.

It can be propagated from seed but reproduces readily from cuttings taken at any time of the year. Cuttings are a faster and more reliable method. You can take cuttings from wild specimens being sure to follow the rules of Ethical Wildcrafting, where you harvest cuttings from 1 in 20 stems that you see. Simply dip the end in rooting hormone and plant in moist but well-drained soil and keep it relatively moist (but not wet) until it becomes established, then cease watering.

If gathering seeds, gather 1 in every 20 ripe brown capsules you find before they split open. Then allow them to dry completely and plant the seeds untreated. Extra seeds can be stored in the fridge.

Ocotillo can be planted year-round. Smaller plants grown by seeds or cuttings in pots will transplant well. Do not bury the stems and water occasionally during the establishment phase but be sure to allow it to dry between waterings as they will not tolerate water logging.

Large plants do not transplant as well. If you are moving a large plant, you should plant it to the same depth as it was originally and with the same side south-facing as it was in its previous location, as this side is more adapted to the sun and heat.

Wildlife Values of Ocotillo

Hummingbirds are the main pollinators of Ocotillo, who are attracted to the red tubular flowers and feed on the abundant nectar. Native carpenter bees also visit the flowers, and bats may as well.

Verdin and other desert birds visit the plants. Its seeds are eaten by numerous native birds and small mammals.

They are host to Hemileuca electra silkmoths.

Status of Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo is considered Globally Secure, G5. This assessment seems premature given the lack of actual data on its assessment in both the US and Mexico.

In the USA, Fouquieria splendens is considered critically Imperiled S1 in Nevada. In all other states, it currently has no status rank and is in need of proper assessment.

No official information on its status in Mexico could be found.

Traditional or Other Uses of Ocotillo

Fouquieria splendens Medicinal Uses

The Mahuna people used Fouquieria splendens as a blood purifier and tonic. Other Native Americans used fresh flowers or roots on wounds to slow bleeding, and they would bathe in water with flowers or roots to help relieve fatigue.

Ocotillo is also a mild expectorant used for coughs.

It is also sometimes used for achy limbs, varicose veins, urinary tract infections, benign prostate growths, and cervical varicosities and to improve the function of the lymphatic system.

Ocotillo as Food

Fresh flowers are sometimes added to salads to impart a tangy flavor. Flowers are sometimes collected and dried and used in tea. The Cahuilla used the fresh flowers in water as a summertime drink. The Papago pressed the nectar out of flowers, then hardened it like rock candy and chewed it as a favorite delicacy.

The Cahuilla would grind the parched seeds into flour to make cakes.

The Yavapai children would suck the tasty nectars out of the fresh flowers.

Ocotillo As Ornamental or Tools

Individual stems are sometimes used as poles as fencing material and often take root to form a living fence. Plants make a terrific ornamental border to keep animals or people out of an area. The Cahuilla often used the stems as a border around crops to keep rodents out. Cahuilla would also use the stems for firewood.

Papago people used wooden stems often in their house building and other construction projects. They would also use thorns to pierce ears. The Pima people used the stems bound together with wire or rawhide for shelves and also used the plants in their gardens ornamentally. Seri people would use the stems to make sun and wind shelters.

The lightweight stems, once removed from thorns, make great walking sticks.

Gum resin from the bark has been used for waxing leather and as an adhesive, varnish, and waterproofing agent.

Ocotillo as Ceremonial

The Papago used flexible stems as ceremonial structures representing clouds or mountains.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Fouquieria splendens

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is currently critically imperiled in Nevada. See the above section on Status.

Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely form, low maintenance, and useful properties.

If you are harvesting Fouquieria splendens from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, fruit, or stems that you see.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp spines. Harvesting stems can be done with a small hand saw and simply cutting the stem near the base. Never pick more than one stem from a single plant. You can use a sharp knife to scrape the thorns from the stem or to remove the bark.

Picked fruits, roots, or flowers can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

Flowers can be eaten fresh upon picking. If used medicinally, it can be dried for later use.

When harvesting roots, dig near the base of the plant with a digging stick. Never use a shovel, as they will damage roots indiscriminately. Find a single healthy root and sever it with a sharp blade, then re-bury the other end. Being a desert plant, it is best to harvest roots anytime the soil is dry (most of the year) since wet soil could encourage the severed root to rot.

To dry the flowers, fruit capsules, or bark pieces, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Fruits, when dry, will split apart to reveal the seeds.

Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt and then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

Once dried, the fruits, seeds, and roots can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference.

Do not grind or crush any of the plant materials until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

California Native Plant Society on Fouquieria splendens https://calscape.org/Fouquieria-splendens-()

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Fouquieria splendens https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fouquieria_splendens

Wildflower.org on Fouquieria splendens https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=fosp2

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Himalayan Blackberry Rubus bifrons - Invasive in North America

Rubus bifron Himalayan Blackberry flowers.
Rubus bifron Himalayan Blackberry flowers.

Introduction

Himalayan Blackberry or Rubus armeniacus or Rubus bifrons (confusingly, both names seem to be currently accepted) is a well-known invasive species in some areas. Where I grew up on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia, Canada, it was everywhere. It does less well in the colder interior, but it still does grow there, just much less invasively. As a child, I did not understand that it was invasive and not native. I just loved eating handfuls of the huge juicy, and sweet berries. I would go out picking bucketfuls of berries every summer with my mother and my three brothers. Now I know how invasive it truly is, and somehow the fruits seem a little less sweet to me now. Once established, the removal of Himalayan Blackberry can be very challenging.

Description of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

Leaves & Stems of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

Rubus bifrons and Rubus armeniacus are members of the Rosaceae family of the Rosales Order of flowering dicots. They are a perennial vine-like trailing shrub that grows 1 – 7 m in length and 0.4 – 1 cm in diameter with arching or creeping stems that are sparse to densely hairy and armed with numerous prickles. They have a large root crown of roots and rhizomes that grow to 0.5 m and sometimes up to 2 m deep.

The leaves are deciduous or sometimes somewhat evergreen and palmately compound with 3 – 5 spreading leaflets. Leaflets are elliptic or ovate to sub-orbiculate and 6 -15 cm long and 4 – 9 cm wide with a rounded or somewhat cordate base. Margins are moderately to coarsely serrated, and the apex is acute to acuminate. The lower surface is whitish to grayish green, while the upper surface is glossy bright green or dark green. There are filiform or linear stipules that are 7 – 15 mm in length. The largest veins have hooked prickles on them.

Flowers & Fruits of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

Himalayan Blackberries usually have loose terminal inflorescences that generally extend past their subtending leaves. Sometimes the inflorescences may grow in the leaf axils as well. They are in a thryse with 10-60(-100) flowers in them. Pedicels are covered with prickles, are densely hairy, and may or may not be glandular. Flowers are bisexual with 5 white or pink petals. Petals are not connate (free), are obovate to elliptical and shape, and are 10 – 15 mm long each. It has filiform stamen filaments, and its ovaries are apically hairy.

They produce abundant black fruits that are juicy drupecetums, an aggregation of drupes on a fleshy accessory peduncle. Most people refer to them as ‘berries’. Fruits are globose or almost cylindrical and 1 – 2 cm long with 15 – 50 individual drupelets that strongly adhere to the accessory peduncle. Abundant fertile seeds are produced in their fruits, from 7000 – 13000 seeds per square meter of stems. Seeds can remain viable in the soil for several years.

Rubus armeniacus fruits By Daderot - Own work, see reference below
Rubus armeniacus fruits By Daderot – Own work, see reference below

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

There are native Rubus species throughout North America, but many are smaller plants with smaller or differently shaped and/or colored berries. Some native and introduced Rubus, however, grow to similar sizes but can be differentiated as follows:

  • Rubus laciniatus, Cutleaf or Evergreen blackberry, is native to Eurasia and has been fairly widely introduced in North America. It grows in similar habitats to similar sizes with similar fruits but can easily be distinguished by its lacinated or deeply cut leaflets as opposed to the whole serrated leaflets of Himalayan Blackberries.
  • Rubus pascuus Chesapeake Blackberry is a native shrub of Kentucky, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, North Carolina, and South Carolina. It has tighter and shorter inflorescences, is more densely glandular, and its terminal leaflets are erect rather than spreading in Rubus bifrons.
  • Rubus pensilvanicus Pennsylvania Blackberry is native throughout eastern Canada and the USA. It usually is a bit smaller than the Himalayan Blackberries, and its very red stems are densely covered in red prickles. It also only ever has white petals on its flowers, and its abaxial leaf sides are hairy but never whitish or grayish-green.
  • Rubus ulmifolius Elmleaf or Thornless Blackberry is another European species that has been introduced that superficially looks very similar, but it is only found in California, Oregon, and Nevada. If prickles are not present, they can easily be distinguished by this. However, sometimes it does have prickles, in which case you can differentiate it by its strongly pruinose stems that Himalayan blackberries lack.
  • Rubus vestitus European Blackberry is found on the Pacific coast of the US and Canada. It is an armed shrub that is generally smaller than 2 m. It also has narrower inflorescences, nearly round terminal leaflets, and stipitate-glandular hairs lacking in Himalayan Blackberries.

Native Distribution of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

There is much debate as to the taxonomic description of this species. Some sources call them all Rubus armeniacus and say these are from Europe. Other sources say that the species are only native to Armenia and Iran. Other sources call this plant Rubus bifrons and say it is widespread in Europe and includes Rubus armeniacus. In either case, whether the same or separate species, they are virtually identical, and both are native to Europe, one more widespread and the other less so.

Habitat Types Where Himalayan Blackberry is Found

Himalayan Blackberry grows in both wetland and upland environments. While it grows abundantly in riparian areas, it does not invade the permanently wet soils of the wetlands though it will tolerate temporary flooding of up to 40 days. It will even tolerate occasional flooding of brackish water. It grows best at low elevations but can grow up to 1200 and occasionally 1800 m above sea level.

Himalayan Blackberries prefer moist, nutrient-rich loam but do not require it. They can also be found growing in soils with a wide range of textures, fertilities, and pH from acid to alkaline. It prefers sunny sites but easily grows in part shade as well.

Human Uses of Himalayan Blackberry

Himalayan Blackberries are widely used as food. They are eaten fresh as berries or frozen or canned for winter use in pies, cakes, jams, jellies, and wines.

Blackberry roots and berries are often used to treat diarrhea, fluid retention, gout, diabetes, gout, and inflammation. It is sometimes used to prevent heart disease and cancer. It makes a good rinse for irritation of the mouth and throat.

They are planted along fences and trellises to create impenetrable barriers to keep people and animals out of an area.

Distribution of Rubus armeniacus, Rubus bifrons in North America

The Himalayan Blackberry species were first brought to North America as a food crop in 1885 for its abundant berries.

In Canada, Rubus bifrons has been recorded in British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, and Nova Scotia. Canadensys does not distinguish between the two species and uses only Rubus bifrons stating that Rubus armeniacus is a synonym.

In the USA, the Himalayan Blackberry is reported as two separate species. USDA states that Rubus bifrons is only found in the eastern part of the country in Oklahoma, Texas, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Maryland, Virginia, Washington DC, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts.

USDA states that Rubus armeniacus is more widespread in the west and scattered in the east. It is found in Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Montana, Nevada, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Missouri, Arkansas, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Ohio, Virginia, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Massachusetts.

In Mexico, Rubus bifrons so far has been reported in Veracruz and Oaxaca. Rubus armeniacus has been reported in Baja California (norte), Puebla, Mexico State, Jalisco, and Chiapas.

Himalayan Blackberries have now been introduced on every continent except Antarctica.

How Himalayan Blackberry Spreads

It is primarily spread long-distance by deliberate human introductions planting it in their gardens. It quickly escapes from cultivation due to its aggressive growth.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through birds and animals which eat the abundant fruit and then spread the seeds around in their feces. Humans also spread the fruits by picking them, eating them and dropping them, etc. They also spread vegetatively through their root crown and rhizomes and by rooting at nodes on their stems that come into contact with soil.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Himalayan Blackberries are considered particularly invasive on the west coast of North America in low-elevation riparian, deciduous, and conifer forests as well as grasslands. It is heavily invasive in riparian communities in that area. It invades the same types of areas in the east but may be less invasive there due to the other aggressive native and non-native vines that are abundant in that region.

Himalayan Blackberry will not invade permanently wet soils or high-elevation montane forests. It will grow in middle-elevation montane forests but not very well. It will also not grow in most arid areas due to lack of moisture unless it is in a riparian zone with perennial access to water.

Impacts of Invasion

In North America, the Himalayan Blackberry is considered the most invasive nonnative shrub on the western coast from British Columbia, Canada, south to California, USA. They are aggressively spreading shrubs that quickly scramble over and smother all other vegetation in their path, excluding tall trees, as they cannot climb as high as English Ivy, for example. However, it can quickly smother and kill all young trees in its path. It is highly competitive for light, space, and nutrients. Due to its aggressive growth, it quickly out-competes native vegetation.

It replaces the more bio-diverse native shrubs and herbs that would have otherwise grown there, creating complete monocultures if the conditions are suitable for them. This out-competes our native vegetation, reducing biodiversity and even causing local extirpation of species. It also forms dense thickets in riparian areas that impede movement and access to water by humans and animals alike.

Himalayan Blackberry is also an agricultural and range land weed that replaces crop and forage lands quickly if left unchecked. Himalayan Blackberry and Scotch Broom are the two most abundant agricultural and range land weeds, causing an estimated $85 million in losses annually.

The abundant dead canes they produce are also a significant fire risk when they die and become brittle as they burn easily.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Himalayan blackberries are widely eaten by bears, foxes, coyotes, squirrels, raccoons, deer, birds, slugs, and countless other native species. Most native ungulates prefer to browse the leaves, but some (white-tailed deer, for example) have been observed browsing the fruits. Leafcutter ants and leafhopper butterfly larvae also feed on the leaves. It is the preferred larval host plant for leafhopper butterflies. Pollen and nectar are also used by native bees, honey bees, and hummingbirds.

In addition, a multitude of small animals and birds use the blackberry thickets for cover, nesting, roosting, etc. The impenetrable thickets of thorns provide them protection from predators.

All of these animals, however, would have fed on the native Salmonberries, Thimbleberries, or other native species displaced by the invasive Rubus bifrons, however. The dependence of wildlife on the berries creates an additional challenge to the control or removal of the Himalayan Blackberries. Check out the control methods below for more information.

Methods to Remove Himalayan Blackberry

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in many local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Himalayan Blackberry. Do not plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Instead, buy suitable native Rubus species. There are multiple native blackberries and raspberries that are even more delicious and are just as easy to grow as invasive blackberries. Native Rubus species provide additional biodiversity and wildlife values as well.

In fact, due to wildlife values, this makes the removal of Himalayan Blackberry more challenging. Because native wildlife now depends on this non-native species, when you remove a large patch, it should be done in stages. Clear one-third or one-quarter of the patch (depending on the size).

Once cleared and few sprouts keep coming back, then it should be replanted with a variety of native salmonberries, thimbleberries, or other native shrubs that would have originally fed the wildlife in your area.

Research what species are native to your area to find suitable replacements. Then tackle the next fraction of the patch until you have replaced the invasive blackberry with a more biodiverse native selection.

Ongoing monitoring will, of course, be needed to ensure it does not return and overtake your planted native species. See the Integrated Management section below.

In public and natural areas minimizing disturbance and replanting disturbed areas as quickly as possible are the best prevention strategies for reducing the chance of invasion by Himalayan Blackberry or any other invasive species.

Physical Control of Himalayan Blackberry

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming, but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

The best time to remove Himalayan Blackberry is early in the spring, before or later during flowering but before the fruit has set to avoid further spreading the seeds.

Physical methods to remove Himalayan blackberries generally involve cutting, hoeing, digging, and burning. Often a combination of methods is used. Always wear gloves when handling the canes, as the prickles are very tough and sharp and will easily pierce the skin.

Young plants can be pulled by hand.

Mature plants require the cutting of the canes with cutters or loppers and then removing the rootstock.

Burning is also an effective method to remove the above-ground growth, but as with cutting, the rootstock will need to be dealt with as well. A single cutting back of the above-ground growth, however, if not followed with additional treatments, will actually increase the density of the thicket when it regrows. It must be followed with additional treatments and ongoing monitoring.

If the rootstock is not removed, it will grow back quite vigorously. One method is to repeatedly cut it back or burn it multiple times over multiple years until the roots are starved by the lack of above-ground growth.

Rootstocks can also be dug out with a shovel or a weed puller, but they are very tough, and this is only suitable in small patches.

If you have only a small patch to deal with and root digging is too labor-intensive, you could also cover the entire area with a black tarp for at least two growing seasons to solarize it. This is much less labor-intensive than returning repeatedly, but again this only works on small patches.

Note that it is virtually impossible to remove all of the rootstocks due to the size and depth that the roots spread to. Removing as much as you can is critical to success. However, it must be followed by ongoing monitoring over several years to ensure all new sprouts are destroyed.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

If you have live stems or plants that have seeds on them, they must either be burned in a hot enough fire or solarized. The fire must be hot enough to destroy the seeds. If you are not allowed fires in your area, then you will have to solarize them.

To solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 8 – 10 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. Some sources suggest less time for polarization, but in my experience, differential heat throughout the bag/tarped area as well as variations in sunlight intensity, can result in the survival of at least some seeds if done for a shorter duration. Take them to your local dump once done and inform them that they are invasive species so that they are disposed of appropriately.

Chemical Control of Himalayan Blackberry

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increase.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus. And due to the nature of Himalayan Blackberry, multiple applications are always needed over multiple years, further degrading the local environment.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Himalayan Blackberry

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day, there are still rats in Hawaii, but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of plants, roots, and seeds to actually control the Himalayan Blackberry on their own. Results this high have never been achieved in the field.

However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective at times. However, in North America, so far, there are no biological control methods in terms of insects, fungi, or other pathogens that have been approved. This is because they all put our abundant list of native Rubus species at risk as well.

Using Goats to Remove Himalayan Blackberries

The only recommended biological control method at this time is grazing by domestic goats. Domestic goats are aggressive and non-selective browsers. They will literally eat anything. To use goats, the patch should be penned in, and then the goats left there to graze for 3 years. They will eventually destroy all the above-ground growth and then eat the new sprouts as they come up.

This can be sped up by an entire year by first removing the above-ground growth and then allowing the goats to eat the sprouts as they come up.

This can then be followed with rootstock removal for any stubborn plants that may remain, or simply leave the goats in the area for another year until you see no more sprouts.

At this time, they can be moved to another patch, and that patch can be replanted with native vegetation and a monitoring program implemented to be sure they do not sprout again.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In all cases of Himalayan Blackberry removal, the site will need to be replanted once the majority of the infestation has been dealt with. This is because the bare soil will allow the seed bank of Himalayan Blackberry in the soil to germinate and re-invade the patch they were removed from. Or it will allow the invasion by other nonnative species, which all favor disturbed sites.

A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement in the 2nd to 4th year upon removal of the Himalayan Blackberry, depending on the speed and success of the removal method.

A variety of native species that are ideally seeds from the local environment to ensure local ecotypes should be planted. If local seeds cannot be gathered or started in time, then purchasing native plants from a reputable nursery specializing in local native species is a good alternative. This must then be followed by ongoing monitoring.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Himalayan Blackberry removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential.

Multiple visits should be made in the first two years to ensure that any surviving individuals, their sprouts, and their seedlings are removed so that the population is not able to recover.

Then yearly monitoring after that for at least five years to ensure that none return. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Himalayan Blackberry is aggressive and prolific and will out-compete planted vegetation if yearly monitoring is not put in place to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established.

References and Resources

CABI on Rubus armeniacus https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/116780

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Fire Effects Information System on Himalayan Blackberry https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/shrub/rubspp/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Rubus armeniacus fruits picture from Wikipedia By Daderot – Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=21796138

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia Himalayan Blackberry https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubus_armeniacus

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!



Blog

Asimina triloba Pawpaw flowers
Asimina triloba Pawpaw flowers

Pawpaw Asimina triloba – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

The Pawpaw or Asimina triloba is a member of the Annonaceae family and the only one that can be found in a temperate climate. The Annonaceae family is part of the Magnoliales Order of flowering Angiosperms. Magnoliales are part of the Magnoliids, the basal angiosperms that diverged before the dicots and monocots. They share characteristics with monocots, dicots, and even gymnosperms, making them an interesting, unique, and varied group of plants. Asimina triloba is no exception to this rule. They produce gorgeously unique flowers and the largest fruit native to the USA (excluding gourds which, for the purposes of edibility, are classified as a vegetable even though they are, in fact, a fruit). The fruit is a delicious creamy fruit with large black seeds you generally do not eat, but the flesh of the fruit tastes somewhat like bananas, and sometimes people call it Indian Banana.

Description of Pawpaw Asimina triloba

Stem & Leaves of Asimina triloba

Bark and buds of Asimina triloba
Bark and buds of Asimina triloba
Leaves and young flower of Asimina triloba
Simple leaves and young flower of Asimina triloba

Pawpaw is a shrub or small tree 1.5 – 11 (-14) m tall with slender trunks to 20(-30) cm in diameter. Its bark is brown on branches and often smooth and light grey on the trunk, but it can get shallow grooves in larger specimens. Branches are slender and spread in an ascending manner. New shoots are moderate to very brown-hairy apically but become glabrous with age.

The leaves of Asimina triloba are simple oblongobovate to oblanceolate in shape and 15 – 30 cm long. They grow on a petiole 5 – 10 mm long. Leaves are membranous with a narrowly cuneate base and acute to acuminate apex. Leaf margins are margins sometimes partly revolute (rolled under). Leaf surfaces are densely hairy, abaxially becoming sparsely hairy on the veins with age. On the adaxial (upper) side, they are sparsely appressed-pubescent on the veins and become glabrous with age.

Flowers & Fruits of Asimina triloba

Androecium and gynoecium of Asimina triloba showing the ball of stamens
Androecium and gynoecium of Asimina triloba showing the ball of stamens
Triangular-deltate sepals of Asimina triloba
Triangular-deltate sepals of Asimina triloba

The maroon flowers appear in early spring as the leaves are just beginning to grow. Flowers appear in leaf axils on a nodding peduncle 1 – 2.5 cm long that is densely hairy with dark-brown or red-brown hairs. Flowers are 1 – 5 cm in diameter and have an unpleasant odor. Flowers have 3 triangular-deltate sepals 8 – 12 mm long that are densely pilose on the abaxial side. The three outer petals are excurved, oblongelliptic, and 1.5 – 2.5 cm long. The inner petals are elliptic and usually about 1/3 to 1/2 the length of the outer petals.

The androecium is a ball of short, stocky stamens with upright anthers. The styles of the gynoecium protrude through the center of this mass.

The Pawpaw is somewhat unusual in that it may be polygamomonoecious or polygamodioecious in that it has separate male, female, and hermaphroditic flowers on the same individual or may have male and hermaphrodite on one plant and female and hermaphrodite on another. Furthermore, under stressful conditions, it may change its sex or its ratio of male to female flowers. It is not capable of self-fertilizing.

Its fruit is a large berry 5 – 15 cm long that is green when young and yellow when ripe. Its yellow or orange-colored fruit inside is soft and creamy and contains many large chestnut-brown seeds that are 1.5 – 2.5 cm long. Though its seeds are fertile and it is capable of sexual reproduction, it reproduces more often and more quickly by vegetative spread by way of root suckers.

Asimina triloba Pawpaw fruit -  pic from Wikipedia By Scott Bauer
Asimina triloba Pawpaw fruit – pic from Wikipedia By Scott Bauer

Similar Species Asimina triloba is Frequently Confused With

Asimina triloba is sometimes mistaken for various Carya, Nyssa, Lindera, Juglans, Quercus, Castanaya, Diospyros, and Magnolia species due to the shape of the leaves. However, the unique flowers and, later the very large fruits will easily distinguish them from any of the species of those genera. There are other species in the Asimina genus that they could be confused with. These can be differentiated as follows:

  • Asimina parviflora – this one is restricted to the southeastern US states and does not grow as far west or north as Asimina triloba. It is also much smaller, usually a shrub or a small tree up to 6 m tall. It has similar colored flowers, but they are much smaller, 1 – 1.7 cm in diameter. The fruits are 3 – 7 cm long.
  • Asimina incana – a rarer shrub endemic to Florida and Georgia, grows only 1.5 m tall. Its outer petals are white or cream in color instead of maroon, and they are 3.5 – 7 cm long each. Its fruit is a yellow-green berry up to 8 cm long.

Distribution of Pawpaw Asimina triloba

In Canada, Pawpaw is found only in southern Ontario.

In the USA, Pawpaw is an eastern species found in Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Michigan, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Washington DC, Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, and Connecticut.

Asimina triloba is not found in Mexico.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Pawpaw

Pawpaw likes to grow in floodplains and shady, rich valley bottoms or lowlands where it may form dense, clonal undergrowth as a patch or thicket of individual small trees. They grow in full sun and part shade. Although shade-tolerant, pawpaws do not grow in undisturbed old-growth forests. Instead, they are one of the newer invaders of clear cuts; generally, around 4 years after tree removal, they will appear.

Pawpaw prefers rich loamy soils with a moderately acidic pH. It prefers moist soil types that are well-drained. While it can tolerate wet, heavy soils, it grows better in those that are well-drained, and it will not grow if the soil is wet for too long.

Growing Pawpaw in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established, they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

Pawpaw is relatively easy to grow, but fruit production is a little more complex. To grow it as a flowering shrub, purchase a plant from your local native plant nursery. Avoid trying to grow from seed due to unpredictable seed fertility. From seed, it also takes several years in cool, moist conditions before the plant is ready to produce any flowers or fruits.

Choose a sunny or partly shady spot and ensure you have good soil. If your soil is sandy, too dry, or low in organic matter, dig out a roughly 1 cubic meter area and amend your soil with an abundant amount of loam or even compost. Put some amended soil back in the pit (at least 40 cm worth), and then plant your tree, filling in around it with more amended soil. Pawpaws have delicate taproots, so the soil they are planted in must be freshly loosened.

Top dress with compost to feed it and provide extra moisture during the establishment phase. For dry areas or very poor soil, you can also plant it in a bit of a depression to hold extra moisture when it is available. Water throughout the first growing season, keeping the soil moist but not wet.

If your soil is heavy clay or very wet, you can also dig out a pit but amend it with loam and gravel and then be sure to plant it on a mound rather than in a depression or at ground level to provide it with a bit of extra drainage.

Once established, it will require little to no maintenance.

Fruit Production

If you want to produce fruits from your trees, you will need to plant them in full sun. They are self-incompatible, so you will need more than one tree so that they can cross-fertilize. Avoid taking cuttings from the wild because some wild varieties never produce fruits; they like to spread vegetatively, so fruit production is not necessary for their survival. This is one of the few cases you must buy from a nursery specializing in native plants.

Cross-fertilization naturally is poor in Pawpaw trees. The flowers are mildly malodorous and rely on flies and other insects for pollination, which seldom happens often enough for heavy fruit production. Many growers turn to hand pollination to ensure they get enough fruits.

To hand pollinate is simple; you can literally just use your hand or a soft clean, unused paintbrush. Dust the brush or your finger in a flower on one tree and bring it and do the same with a different flower on another tree. Continue this until you have cross-pollinated all of your flowers. This will significantly increase your fruit production.

Winter Maintenance

Prune when the tree is dormant in fall, winter, or spring, depending on your location. Since this is a temperate Annonaceae, it is already adapted to cold conditions and requires no winter care. However, if you live in the northern limit of its range, it would benefit from winter mulch.

Wildlife Values of Pawpaw

The fruits of the pawpaw are frequently eaten by mammals, including raccoons, gray foxes, opossums, squirrels, and black bears. The foul-smelling twigs and foliage are rarely browsed upon by rabbits and the occasional moose; otherwise, they leave the trees alone unless in fruit. Birds are often seen roosting in the trees and will also occasionally feed on the fruits. The Pawpaw is also a larval host plant of the zebra swallowtail butterfly, which consumes some of the foliage.

Status of Asimina triloba

Pawpaw is considered Globally Secure, G5, and Least Concern on the IUCN Red List.

In the USA, Asimina triloba is considered Locally Secure S5 in Indiana, Kentucky, West Virginia, Virginia, Delaware, Pennsylvania, North Carolina, and Georgia. It is considered Apparently Secure S4 in Nebraska. In New Jersey, Pawpaw is considered Vulnerable S3. It is considered Imperiled S2 in Iowa and New York. In all other states where it is found, it currently has no status rank.

Asimina triloba is considered Vulnerable S3 in southern Ontario. Its range in Canada is very limited and it is found in a heavily populated area of southern Ontario.

Pawpaw is not found in Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses of Pawpaw

Pawpaw as a Food

The Cherokee, Iroquois, Pawnee, Kansa, and Choctaw people used to eat the fruit fresh or dried. Sometimes they would make it into dried cakes for winter food storage. Dried fruit was sometimes made into sauces or relish.

Today there are commercially grown Pawpaw trees in some areas for small-scale commercial production. They cannot be produced on a large scale for fresh consumption because they quickly ripen and start to ferment upon picking, making them suitable for fresh local markets only. The fruit is also popular in ice cream and baked desserts, where it can be used in frozen form.

Pawpaw as Medicine

There was no recorded use of Native Americans using the Pawpaw as medicine.

However, the bark, leaf, and seed are occasionally used to make modern herbal medicines. They are used in homeopathy to treat fever, vomiting, pain, and inflammation of the mouth and throat.

Asimina triloba as Ornamentals or Tools

The Cherokee people used to use the tough inner bark as a source of cordage to use as strong rope or string for tying things together.

The Pawpaw is often used for landscaping in the eastern USA due to its easy growth, lovely flowers, its fresh fruit, and its relatively low maintenance needs once established. It has few natural pests and requires no pesticides and little to no fertilizer. It is sometimes used in ecological restoration for its ability to grow in wet soils and form dense clonal mats, which can help prevent erosion.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Asimina triloba

Check the status in your state or province before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states and in the province of Ontario. See the above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely flowers as well as its tasty fruits.

If you are harvesting Asimina triloba from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 fruits you see from a large patch. Be sure to leave lots of fruits for all the wildlife that feed on the ripe fruits.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits can be placed in a basket or bowl and brought home for processing.

Pawpaw should generally be eaten soon after picking if eating fresh as it quickly ripens and starts to ferment if left too long. Do not eat either the skin or the seeds of the fruit, as both are toxic to humans. Alternatively, you can freeze or dry the fruits.

To freeze, it is best to first peel the skins and remove the seeds, as these are toxic and should not be eaten. The resulting pulp can be frozen in containers or bags.

To dry the fruits, also skin them first and remove the seeds. Then dry the pulp either in the sun on a hot day with mosquito netting around it to keep the flies out or in a food dehydrator on a low heat setting. Dried fruit can be stored in a labeled glass jar.

References and Resources

Asimina triloba fruits pic from Wikipedia By Scott Bauer, USDA – USDA ARS Image Number K7575-8, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10830

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Asmina triloba https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asimina_triloba

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Tamarisk Saltcedar - Invasive Species of North America

Saltcedar Tamarisk Tamarix ramosissima an invasive Species in North America. Picture shows the leaves and typical flowers of almost all the Tamarix species found in North America.
Saltcedar Tamarisk Tamarix ramosissima an invasive Species in North America. Picture shows the leaves and typical flowers of almost all the Tamarix species found in North America.

Introduction

I never saw saltcedar, Tamarisk, or any of the other common names that Tamarix species go by until I traveled south. So far, they have not ventured far into Canada and certainly haven’t been venturing there long. However, in the south, they thrive in hot, dry areas, particularly saline soils where few plants will grow, allowing them to take over. There are 50 – 60 species of Tamarix in the world, and not one is native to North America. In North America, we have Tamarix aralensis, Tamarix aphylla, Tamarix africana, Tamarix canariensis, Tamarix chinensis, Tamarix gallica, Tamarix parviflora, Tamarix ramosissima, and Tamarix tetragyna.

All Tamarix species should be considered invasive in North America. They have covered over a hundred million acres in the western US alone, and they frequently hybridize, making identification to the species level challenging. For the purpose of identifying them as an invasive species and for Tamarisk or Saltcedar removal or control, identification to the genus level is more than sufficient.

Description of Tamarix spp

Leaves & Stems of Tamarix spp

Tamarix spp are part of the Tamaricaceae family in the Caryophyllales Order of flowering dicot plants. They are either shrubs or small trees from 1- 10 m tall and are often multi-stemmed. They are a long-lived species living 100 years or more. Most species are deciduous. They are almost all very deep-rooted, with a tap root up to 30 m deep that also produces lateral roots up to 50 m long that can produce adventitious buds, especially when covered by shifting sand. Their deep taproots are meant to reach down into the groundwater, allowing them to survive in hot drought-prone climates as long as they are close to the water table.

Young branches are glabrous and are a variety of colors depending on the species. They may be reddish-brown, brown, blackish-brown, dark purple, grey, or black. Older branches have heavy bark that is frequently shredded and may be grey or brownish and reaches 10 – 15 (-30) cm in diameter.

The usually sessile (without leaf stalks) leaves of Saltcedars are much reduced and appear small and bract-like, somewhat resembling that of coniferous tree needles. Leaves are varying shades of dull, light, or dark green and turn golden-orange in the fall.

Flowers & Fruits of Tamarix spp

Tamarix ramosissima pink flowers in racemes typical of all Tamarix species in North America
Tamarix ramosissima pink flowers in racemes typical of all Tamarix species in North America

Tamarisk or Saltcedars produce a racemose inflorescence that is often paniculately branched. They are borne on the ends of current-year branches or in some species’ previous-year branches. In most species in North America, the flowers appear after the leaves have grown back. The flowers are very small, usually pink, and most have small petals only 1 – 2 mm long.

Fruits are multi-sided capsules with up to thousands of tiny seeds. The capsules usually have a tuft of hair that aids in wind dispersal. They can also be dispersed in water. Seed viability is very short, however, from around 20 to a maximum of 120 days, depending on the weather. However, Saltcedars can flower and produce seeds for extended periods of time, allowing them to reproduce prolifically even with their short seed life.

Similar Species Tamarix spp are Frequently Confused With

Other Genera

There are a few other genera that Tamarix species are occasionally confused with that also grow in similar habitats and ranges and have much-reduced leaves. However, all of those can easily be differentiated by their flowers.

Parkinsonia species are members of the Fabaceae family and have larger yellow, somewhat pea-like flowers and produce small legume fruits.

Prosopis glandulosa has sprays of yellow rather than pink flowers, and it is also a Fabaceae that produces long legume fruits.

Lepidospartum squamatum has a limited range native to the southwestern USA and northwestern Mexico and has small yellow Asteraceae-type disk flowers and typically Asteraceae cypsela fruits. Baccharis neglecta has a similar North American range, but it is a perennial plant, not a shrub, and produces individual whitish flowers more typical of the Asteraceae family it belongs to.

Polygonella robusta is an uncommon plant of the Polygonaceae family that is endemic to Florida and produces similar sprays of small pink flowers, but its leaves, while still small, are long and linear compared to all Tamarix species.

Juniperus virginiana smells strongly of Juniper and has characteristic powdery blue “berries” and no pink flowers.

Casuarina equisetifolia is widespread in Mexico and more limited in the southern USA. It has needle-like leaves, but they are longer, divided into septa, and grouped in fascicles, and it produces a globose cone-like fruit.

Tamarix Genera

Tamarix species can be challenging to identify at the species level. For the most part, genus-level identification in North America is sufficient for treating the plants as invasive species, as none are native to North America. However, with a bit of patience and a small amount of skill, they can be identified to the species level as follows:

  • Tamarix aralensis Russian Tamarisk has a limited range in North America. It is similar to T. chinensis and T. ramosissima but has a much more limited range. It can be differentiated by its petals that fall off at the time of seed maturation.
  • Tamarix aphylla Athel Tamarisk is more widespread in Mexico than in the southern USA. It is the only evergreen species, and its leaves are sheathing on the stems rather than sessile or amplexicaul like all other Tamarix species in our area. It also produces white instead of pink flowers.
  • Tamarix africana African Tamarisk has a very limited range in the southern USA. It has the largest flowers (though still small) with petals that are 2 – 3 mm long and racemes that are 5 – 9 mm wide.
  • Tamarix canariensis Canary Island Tamarisk has a limited range in the southern USA. It is similar to T. chinensis and T. ramosissima, but its sepal margins are denticulate, and it has obovate petals that are 1.2 – 1.5 mm long.
  • Tamarix chinensis Five-Stamen Tamarisk is widespread in Mexico and the USA. It also is the most similar to T. ramosissima, and the two often hybridize, leading some to believe they should be considered the same species. They have five petals and five stamens. They can only be differentiated by this one’s sepal margins that are entire and that some or all of the stamens’ filaments originate from below the nectar disc. Filament inspection requires patience, a hand lens, and some skill. Furthermore, its petals persist at seed maturation, unlike T. aralensis.
  • Tamarix gallica French Tamarisk has a limited west and south range in the USA and northern Mexico. It is also similar to T. chinensis and T. ramosissima, but its sepal margins are entire or almost entire, and it has elliptic to ovate petals that are 1.5 – 2 mm long.
  • Tamarix parviflora is very widespread in the USA and is limited to the northern parts of Mexico. Its flowers are produced before it gets its leaves, and it usually only has four petals, unlike all other species in North America, whose flowers are five-petaled and arrive after the appearance of leaves.
  • Tamarix ramosissima is fairly widespread in both USA and Mexico. It is the most similar to T. chinensis, and the two often hybridize, leading some to believe they should be considered the same species. They have five petals and five stamens. However, this species’ sepal margins are denticulate rather than entire, and all the stamens’ filaments originate from the edge of the nectar disc rather than below it in T. chinensis. Filament inspection requires patience, a hand lens, and some skill. Furthermore, its petals persist at seed maturation, unlike T. aralensis.
  • Tamarix tetragyna Four-Stamen Tamarisk is found only in Georgia. It can be differentiated by its flowers that have only four stamens as opposed to the five that all other species in North America have.

Native Distribution of Tamarix spp

There are approximately 100 species of Tamarix, and all are native to Eurasia and Africa. None are native to the Americas.

Habitat Types Where Saltcedar is Found

Saltcedar, with its long taproots, is usually found only near groundwater and is, therefore, particularly common in riparian habitats, including floodplains, permanent or ephemeral stream banks, and around lakes and water reservoirs. They can also grow in upland habitats out of contact with groundwater, but they are less common there and grow less vigorously there. They can grow from 0 – 2000 m above sea level.

There is a common misconception that they are saline-loving plants, but in fact, they tolerate a wide range of soils, including those fairly high in salinity. This gives them a significant competitive advantage in saline areas where most other plants cannot survive. In those conditions, they typically rapidly produce monocultures displacing the few native halophytes found there.

Human Uses of Tamarisk

Tamarisk is used as an ornamental, especially in marginal habitats or saline soils. It was also widely planted as a stream and dune stabilizer in some areas. It is being used in China to fight the expansion of deserts.

Tamarisk wood is sometimes used for firewood, carpentry, and the making of bows and other tools.

In Africa and Asia, Tamarix species are used medicinally to treat wounds and infections as well as liver and spleen disorders. It is seldom currently used in North America medicinally.

Distribution of Tamarix spp in North America

The species was first brought to North America in the 1800s as an ornamental species. There are no species of Tamarix native to North America.

In Canada, Tamarix ramosissima has been recorded but ephemeral in British Columbia. It has been seen but not lasted long enough to confirm in Ontario, Manitoba, Quebec, and Nova Scotia.

In the USA, nine Tamarix spp are found. They are distributed as follows:

  • Tamarix aralensis Russian Tamarisk is found in California and North Carolina.
  • Tamarix aphylla Athel Tamarisk is found in California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, and Texas.
  • Tamarix africana African Tamarisk is found in California, Arizona, Texas, Louisiana, and South Carolina.
  • Tamarix canariensis Canary Island Tamarisk is found in Arizona, Louisiana, Georgia, South Carolina, and North Carolina.
  • Tamarix chinensis Five-Stamen Tamarisk is more widespread and is found in Washington, California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Ohio, and North Carolina.
  • Tamarix gallica French Tamarisk is found in Washington, California, New Mexico, Texas, Louisiana, Georgia, South Carolina, and North Carolina.
  • Tamarix parviflora is the most widespread species in the USA, being found in Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Montana, Colorado, New Mexico, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Missouri, Louisiana, Illinois, Mississippi, Kentucky, Tennessee, Florida, North Carolina, Virginia, Michigan, Pennsylvania, Delaware, New Jersey, Connecticut, and Massachusetts.
  • Tamarix ramosissima is also fairly widespread, being found in California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina and Virginia.
  • Tamarix tetragyna Four-Stamen Tamarisk is found in Georgia.

In Mexico, there are five species of Tamarix found as follows:

  • Tamarix aphylla is the most widespread found in Baja California, Baja California Sur, Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Durango, Jalisco, Michoacan, Coahuila, Nuevo León, Tamaulipas, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, and Mexico City.
  • Tamarix chinensis is found in northern Mexico in Baja California, Baja California Sur, Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Coahuila and Nuevo León. It is possibly found in Mexico City, Mexico State, and Tamaulipas, but this is unconfirmed.
  • Tamarix gallica is much less widespread and also only found in the northern states of Baja California, Coahuila, and Nuevo León. There is also an unconfirmed location in Chihuahua.
  • Tamarix parviflora is the least widespread in Mexico and is only found on the northern border of Baja California. It is not far from the border in New Mexico, so it may likely spread to Chihuahua from there soon.
  • Tamarix ramosissima is the second most widespread in Mexico, with populations found in Baja California, Baja California Sur, Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo León, Guanajuato, Queretaro, Mexico State, Mexico City, and Guerrero.

How Tamarisk Spreads

It is primarily spread long-distance by deliberate human introductions into gardens or as a landscape plant.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through the abundant tiny seeds spread by wind, water, humans or animals. Seeds have a very short viability period; however, if they are not germinated during the summer that they are dispersed, almost none germinate the following year. However, Saltcedar produces seeds over a very long period enabling its rapid spread. Mature tamarisk plants also spread vegetatively by adventitious roots producing colonies of clones. 

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

All riparian areas are at risk of invasion, particularly in the semi-arid and arid southern areas of our continent. More northern areas are less at risk, but we have seen invasion into North and South Dakota, Washington State, and New York, as well as the so-far ephemeral invasion into southern Canada. Tamarisk or Saltcedar has expanded its riparian dominance significantly since the 1800s and now covers huge geographical areas. Its rapid spread does not seem to be slowing, and its range continually grows.

In California desert areas, Saltcedars have now even become established in remote mountain springs, streams, and washes. These areas show no sign of human disturbance and are long distances away from any source of infestation. This means that wild riparian areas far from humans are not safe from Saltcedar invasion.

Impacts of Invasion

Tamarisk thrives in riparian habitats where it quickly displaces native vegetation due to rapid growth, tolerance of a wide range of environmental conditions, and long periods of abundant seed production. Tamarisk also accumulates salt in its leaf glands and excretes it onto the leaf surface. These salts accumulate in the soil when the plants drop their salty leaves. As surface soils become more saline over time, they further exclude native vegetation, producing monocultures. Native herbivores’ preference for native plants gives Tamarix species yet another competitive advantage.

Significant loss of biodiversity occurs in the stands of Saltcedar. Plant diversity is dramatically reduced, resulting in a loss of riparian bird, insect, invertebrate, aquatic and animal diversity.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Saltcedar provides a habitat for a number of bird species. However, many of these are introduced from the Old World, where Tamarix evolved; though some of our native birds do use it, they still prefer native plants.

Methods to Remove Tamarix spp

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in many local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Saltcedar. Do not plant it in your yard. There are so many Native Plant Species that would make suitable garden specimens that are noninvasive and provide additional wildlife and biodiversity values.

If you see Tamarisks being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Physical Control of Saltcedar Tamarisk

Once already established, however, physical control is a labor-intensive but effective means to remove Saltcedar. Physical control is time-consuming and costly, but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage and leaves the area the most biodiverse afterward.

The best time to remove Saltcedar or Tamarisk is before it has gone to seed. Because it flowers and seeds for an extended period of time, this must be done in the late fall, winter, or early spring. If the plants are in seed upon removal, they can be burned or solarized as the seeds are sensitive and should die easily.

Physical methods to remove Saltcedar generally involve pulling young plants by hand, if very small, or with a weed puller or digging them out with a hoe or shovel.

Mature specimens are generally cut down, but the rootstock must be either dug out with a machine or chemically treated for a period of time to prevent re-sprouting. Isolated larger specimens can be solarized to prevent re-sprouting, but the tarp must remain for 2 growing seasons. Another method is to simply keep returning to the area a few times each growing season for several years in a row to keep cutting any new sprouts. This will eventually starve out the roots and kill the plant.

Along controlled rivers scheduling 5 – 10 year floods which wash out the Saltcedars removing them and leaching salts from the soil. This allows the native vegetation adapted to periodic flooding to grow back and displace the Saltcedar. The seedlings can be easily killed by keeping an area flooded for one month. The flooding method can also be used in low-lying areas that are isolated. Cut down all mature plants to the ground and keep the area flooded for an extended period of time. It will kill or prevent any new seedlings or sprouting and will eventually start rotting out and starving the roots. After the water is allowed to drain, the short seed viability period makes it unlikely that many new seedlings will emerge. Ongoing monitoring and hand-pulling of the few that do grow can be effective at preventing the population from becoming re-established.

Methods Not Recommend

Neither mowing nor burning will effectively control mature Saltcedar. Plants will quickly regrow from their basal stem buds and be supported by their extensive and deep root systems. Seedlings can be controlled by physical removal as mowing is generally ineffective on them as well due to their roots.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

If you have plants that have seeds on them, they must either be burned or solarized. Though mature plants are fire-adapted and will regrow, their sensitive seeds are vulnerable to fire, so the burning of shrubs is desirable in areas where burning is allowed.

If burning is not allowed, you should solarize the shrubs under a thick black tarp or in thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for 6-8 weeks to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. Since seed viability is poor, solarizing is also an effective method to destroy seeds.

Chemical Control of Saltcedar Tamarisk

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increase.

Saltcedar is somewhat resistant to chemical control methods, with up to 30% of plants resprouting up to three years after treatment. This means multiple applications will be needed. Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only the control of Saltcedar. Finally, due to their preference for riparian habitats, the use of herbicides is often not allowed due to proximity to water.

However, professionals and government officials may determine where and when chemical applications can be safely carried out to deal with vast areas of infestation. Chemical control by individuals is generally not recommended.

Biological Control of Saltcedar

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day, there are still rats in Hawaii, but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of seeds to actually control the Saltcedar on their own. Results this high have never been achieved in the field. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective.

So far, in North America, only one biological control agent has been released to control Tamarisk. Diorhabda elongata deserticola is a leaf beetle from western China and eastern Kazakhstan that was released in the USA in 1986. The beetles established well in the more northern areas and, after the third season, were seen to defoliate over 95% of the plants in the area. The populations have been spreading and are successfully helping to control Saltcedar in larger and larger areas. The introduced leaf beetle has also shown to be highly selective for Tamarisk and so far has not been observed eating any native vegetation. This makes it highly suitable for the biological control of Saltcedar.

The leaf beetles, however, did not establish in the southern areas due to increased predation and climatic differences. Additional subspecies of D. elongata have now been obtained from lower latitudes in Europe and Asia to be tested in more southern locations. It is too early for conclusive results.

Goats and cattle will graze on Saltcedar, but cattle, in particular, will selectively graze on native vegetation where it is present. Goats are less selective and will generally eat anything. Grazing would need to be done on a continual basis for at least 4 – 5 years so that they eat all sprouts that try to grow back up from the rootstock. Eventually, this would starve out the rootstock, and the plants would die.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form, this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings; otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In all cases of removal, the site should be replanted once the area has been cleared of Saltcedar and the soil has been leached of excess salts. Leaching the soil involves manually flooding the area with fresh water if there is insufficient rain in the region. Otherwise, waiting until after the rainy season may be sufficient as long as there are no more Saltcedars there.

Bare soil invites more infestations, and high salinity prevents biodiversity from improving. A replanting program should be planned and ready to implement the following year after the removal of Saltcedar. Then ongoing monitoring will be necessary to ensure no sprouts survive and no new seeds are accidentally brought into the area.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Saltcedar removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving sprouting individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. Due to the short viability of seeds, new seedlings will stop emerging after a single season, provided no new seeds are accidentally transported to the site. Monitoring is required whether the area is replanted or not. Saltcedar has very deep and widespread roots that will easily regrow and start a new infestation if left unchecked. Yearly monitoring will prevent this and will allow the site to recover so that native plants will return.

References and Resources

CABI on Tamarix ramosissima https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/52503

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Fire Effects Information System on Tamarix spp https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/tree/tamspp/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia Tamarix https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamarix

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Drosera rotundifolia Round-Leaved Sundew - Native Plant of the Week

Round-Leaved Sundew Drosera rotundifolia growing in Halfmoon Bay, British Columbia, Canada.
Round-Leaved Sundew Drosera rotundifolia growing in Halfmoon Bay, British Columbia, Canada.

Round-Leaved Sundew Drosera rotundifolia – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

I have always been a sucker for all things weird and unique, especially when it comes to native plants. Drosera rotundifolia or the Round-Leaved Sundew was the very first carnivorous plant I saw in the wild and I was immediately in love. To this day it is still one of my favorites. It is a tiny little plant with round leaves covered in sticky glands it uses to capture its prey, any insect small enough to get trapped in its sticky glands including mosquitoes, flies, butterflies, moths, etc. It kills its prey in about 15 minutes but then it slowly digests the insects using digestive enzymes secreted from the sticky glands. The digestion process can take 1 – 3 weeks during which it obtains nitrogen and other nutrients from their little corpses. This may sound a bit on the morbid side but I find it fascinating.

This adaptation allows Round-Leaved Sundew to thrive in the poor nutrient conditions of bogs, marshes, fens and other marginal wetland habitats like lake shores and even floating logs in lakes. In these conditions, it thrives, in part because few other plants can so it has minimal competition. This also puts them at threat due to the loss of our wetlands. While the populations are still secure they are becoming seriously threatened locally in some areas due to habitat loss. They are also challenging to cultivate due to the need for a long period of winter dormancy to develop their winter buds known as hibernacula. Hibernacula allow cold-adapted aquatic plants to survive harsh winter conditions. Cultivars are now available that do not require this, but then they are cultivars and not the wild type.

Description of Round-Leaved Sundew Drosera rotundifolia

Stem & Leaves

Drosera rotundifolia is part of the Droseraceae family in the Caryophyllales order of flowering dicots. It is a very small plant, usually around 3 – 10 cm tall not including its inflorescence which can grow to a maximum of 35 cm tall. It forms a basal rosette of leaves 4 – 10 (2 – 15) cm in diameter. In winter it goes dormant forming hibernaculum, small buds of tightly coiled leaves that can survive the harsh winters.

Leaves are erect or prostrate on petioles 1.5 – 5 cm in length. It has stipules 4 – 6 mm long that are adnate to their petioles along their entire length. Petioles are glandular-pilose (covered with sticky glandular hairs).

Leaves are suborbicular (almost round) and are 0.4 – 1 cm long by 0.5–1.2 cm wide. They are wider than they are long and they are always shorter than their petioles. Leaves, like the petioles, are glandular-pilose covered with sticky glands used to capture and digest their prey.

Flowers & Fruits

The flowers appear from June to September in one-sided inflorescences of 2 – 15 (-25) flowers on scapes that grow up to 35 cm tall but are usually 10 – 20 cm tall. Individual flowers are 4 – 7 mm in diameter with 5 white to pink spatulate petals 5 – 6 mm long by 3 mm wide. Its oblong sepals are basally connate and 4 – 5 mm long by 1.5 – 2 mm wide.

Its fruit is a 5 mm capsule with light brown 1 – 1.5 mm fusiform seeds with longitudinal striations.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Drosera rotundifolia is such a unique plant it would be impossible to mistake it for any other genus. However, there are multiple species of Drosera in North America that it could be confused with. Some hybrids are forming in North America with intermediate morphological features, none of them have the distinct round (suborbicular) leaves of Drosera rotundifolia. The different species of Drosera in North America can be differentiated as follows:

  • Drosera anglica – the Greater Sundew – looks similar and grows in similar habitats but more in western North America, in the east it is more restricted to Canada and the most northern US states. This one is easily differentiated however by its long narrow linearspatulate leaves that are never round (suborbicular) like the Round-Leaved Sundew. See the two images below with Drosera rotundifolia on the left and Drosera anglica on the right.
  • Drosera capillaris – the Pink Sundew – looks similar and grows in similar habitats but is found at low elevations only and is found in the southeastern part of the US, southern Mexico, Caribbean and northern South America. It can be easily differentiated by its very pink flowers and its appressed rosette of leaves that grow very close to the ground and are never erect.
  • Drosera brevifolia – the Red Sundew has a similar range as Drosera capillaris and can be differentiated by its small size, seldom more than 3 cm across, and its wedge-shaped red leaves.
Drosera rotundifolia with its round suborbicular leaves
Drosera rotundifolia with its round suborbicular leaves
Drosera anglica with its linear-spatulate leaves
Drosera anglica with its linearspatulate leaves

Distribution of Round-Leaved Sundew Drosera rotundifolia

Round-Leaved Sundew has a circumboreal native distribution, found throughout the entire Northern Hemisphere south to the subtropics.

In Canada Drosera rotundifolia is native in all provinces and all northern territories.

In the USA, Round-Leaved Sundew is native to Alaska, Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Montana, Colorado, North Dakota, Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, Delaware, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine. It is absent from the interior deserts and plains.

Round-Leaved Sundew is not found in Mexico or anywhere south of the southern USA.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Round-Leaved Sundew

Drosera rotundifolia is a carnivorous plant adapted to the low nitrogen conditions of bogs, fens, and marshes. It is also found in wet stands of black spruce, silty and boggy shorelines and wet sands. Round-Leaved Sundew can even be found on floating logs in lakes. It is found from 0 – 3000 m elevations and is often quite common in mountain bogs, fens and swamps.

Drosera rotundifolia prefers wet and acidic soil types found in wetlands and will not tolerate drought. It prefers open sun but will grow in part shade. It will not grow in full shade. Round-Leaved Sundew is not found outside of these habitat types. As a result, it is becoming threatened in some places where too many wetlands have been drained or otherwise lost.

Growing Round-Leaved Sundew in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They also provide important wildlife and biodiversity values.

You can purchase plants from your local nursery specializing in native species and grow them in your wetland garden. If you do not live in a cold enough climate you may need to purchase a cultivar that does not require winter dormancy. Plant it in sunny locations in moist poorly-drained soils with an acidic pH. They will grow particularly well with mosses and on the edges of ponds. If starting from seed start plants in peat pellets and when they are large enough transplant the peat pot into your chosen spot.

If you want to grow this plant but do not have a wetland garden already please do your research on wetland plants. You will need a low spot with poor drainage and if you do not have one you will need to artificially create one. I will not get into that here because that is a whole separate article.

Drosera rotundifolia Round-Leaved Sundew in Flower growing on a floating log in a lake.
Drosera rotundifolia Round-Leaved Sundew in Flower growing on a floating log in a lake.

Wildlife Values of Round-Leaved Sundew

Bog-dwelling ants are opportunistic scavengers that obtain a significant portion of their diet by scavenging prey stuck in the sticky leaves of Drosera rotundifolia. Moose have been seen eating Round-Leaved Sundew in Alaska.

Status of Drosera rotundifolia

Round-Leaved Sundew, with its circumboreal distribution, is considered Globally Secure, G5 and IUCN Least Concern.

In Canada Round-Leaved Sundew is Locally Secure S5 in BC, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland including Labrador. It is Apparently Secure S4 in Saskatchewan and Manitoba. In the Yukon Territories it is considered Vulnerable. It has no status rank (unassessed) in Nunavut and the Northwest Territories.

In the USA Drosera rotundifolia is not considered Locally Secure in any state. It is Apparently Secure S4 in Rhode Island and Virginia. Round-Leaved Sundew is Vulnerable S3 in Montana, Indiana, Ohio, West Virginia, Maryland and North Carolina. It is Imperiled S2 in Colorado, Illinois, Delaware and Georgia. It is Critically Imperiled S1 in North Dakota, Illinois, Tennessee and Alabama. In all the other states it is found it has no status rank (unassessed).

Round-Leaved Sundew is not found in Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses of Round-Leaved Sundew

Drosera rotundifolia Medicinal Uses

In North America various First Nations peoples, particularly the Kwakiutl used the plant as a dermatological aid for warts, bunions, and corns. The Kwakiutl also used it as a love potion.

In Europe the glistening secretions on the leaves used to be used in anti-aging potions because it was believed to be a source of youth and virility. It has also been used as an antibiotic to treat tuberculosis and other respiratory infections. Sometimes it was also used as a love potion because of its ability to lure and trap helpless insects to its sticky leaves.

Drosera rotundifolia has been studied in recent times and shows potential as an anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic.

Round-Leaved Sundew as an Ornamental or Tools

In Sweden the leaves of Round-Leaved Sundew were used to curdle milk and make cheese.

Early settlers sometimes extracted a red fluid from sundews to use as ink.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Drosera rotundifolia

Check the status in your state or province before harvesting since it is imperiled, threatened or vulnerable in several states and provinces. See above section on Status. Alternatively, purchase plants from your local nursery and grow them in your wetland garden. If you do not live in a cold enough climate you may need to purchase the cultivar that does not require winter dormancy.

If you are harvesting Drosera rotundifolia from the wild as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 leaves or plants you see, but only if the population is large and stable. Do not harvest from marginal wetlands.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked leaves or plants can be placed in a bowl or a jar. Do not use paper bags as you will lose all the sticky juices to the paper bags.

Medicinally Round-Leaved Sundew is generally used fresh. Store it in a glass jar in the fridge until needed. Generally speaking fresh herbs in the fridge do not last more than 1 – 2 weeks.

You can also plant the entire plant in your garden in peat-rich moist soil substrates and grow the plants to extend their medicinal benefits and enjoy the plant themselves. If you live in a cold enough climate and provide the right conditions it could return year after year. Do not feed the plants, and keep them very moist.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Fire Effects Information System on Drosera rotundifolia https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/forb/drorot/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Drosera rotundifolia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drosera_rotundifolia

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Bradford or Callery Pear Pyrus calleryana - Invasive Species of North America

Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  flowers
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear flowers

Introduction

Pyrus calleryana is often called the Bradford Pear after the cultivar that was planted widely in the US in the 1960s and 1970s and still sometimes is today. However, the Bradford Pear itself is an infertile cultivar, hence the more appropriate common name of the Callery Pear. The Bradford Pear cultivar can neither self-pollinate or cross-pollinate with the same cultivar as its seeds are infertile. However, if different cultivars of Pyrus calleryana are grown within 100 m of each other they can cross-pollinate and produce fertile offspring. The resulting Callery Pear is a fast-growing aggressive tree with a broad ecological tolerance, rapid growth, few pests and early sexual maturity. It produces abundant tiny fruits with abundant tiny seeds. The fruits are hard and woody but soften after a hard frost and become appealing to birds which then spread their seeds around. It quickly replaces native vegetation wherever its seeds have a chance to grow. Once established, removing or controlling Callery or Bradford Pear can be challenging.

Do not buy any cultivars of Pyrus calleryana because they may cross-pollinate and spread in the wild. The Bradford / Callery Pear story is a perfect example of why we should not buy supposed “sterile cultivars” of invasive species because we never know how they will behave until they have already escaped into the wild. Supposed sterile cultivars of Scotch Broom and Purple Loosestrife have also done a similar thing. Instead, research plants that are native to your area and plant those. Native plants tend to be naturally resistant to pathogens and insects, require little watering or feeding, and promote biodiversity and wildlife values. Also, there are always lovely native plants everywhere that are just as beautiful as invasive cultivars, if we just look for them we will find them.

Description of Pyrus calleryana

Leaves & Stems

Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  leaves closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear leaves closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  mature trunk closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear mature trunk closeup

The Callery Pear is a deciduous tree that can grow 5 – 20 m tall and has a trunk that is up to 0.6m in diameter. The trunk, however, often splits into multiple branches that tend to break easily in storms damaging the tree and shortening its usefulness as a landscape tree. Its branches are reddish-brown when young and become grayish-brown with age with vertical grooves in the older bark.

Pyrus calleryana simple leaves are arranged alternately on the stem. They are 4 – 9 cm long and are on 2 – 4.5 cm long petioles. Leaf blades are ovate, broadly ovate or oblonglanceolate. The surface is shiny green glabrous (hairless) with undulate (wavy) and slightly toothed margins. In fall the leaves turn yellow, orange, and red before falling off for the winter.

Leaf shape can be variable and these indicate the different varieties of Pyrus calleryana. For the purpose of invasive species removal or control, identification to the species level alone is sufficient. There will always be variations in morphology because the wild species are all hybrids of various cultivars and as such will generally exhibit intermediate characteristics between its two parent varieties.

Flowers & Fruits

Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  flowers closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear flowers closeup

Callery Pear flowers in April and May just before the leaves appear. The flowers are malodorous smelling somewhat of rotten fish. Flowers are 2.5 cm wide with 5 white obovate petals 6 – 7 (–13) mm long and × 6 – 7 (–13) mm wide.

Pyrus calleryana has numerous stamens with white filaments and topped with reddish or brownish anthers. Its ovaries are 2 – 3 (–4)-locular and they are topped with 2 or 3 styles.

Fruits are small pomes (like an apple), around 1 cm in diameter and globular (round) in shape. They are green when young in late spring and summer but turn brown when ripe in the fall and winter. They contain numerous cyanide-laced seeds inside.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

There are numerous species of mostly Pyrus and Prunus (plum and cherry) species that Pyrus calleryana could be confused with as well as some other genera. All genera it can be confused with are part of the Rosaceae family. Sometimes people confuse it with Populus species as well but the appearance of the flowers in the spring will easily distinguish it from those.

  • Pyrus communis – the Common Pear has very similar flowers and leaves but its mature bark has horizontal and vertical grooves in it making it more of a checkerboard-like pattern than the vertical striations of Pyrus communis. Its leaves are usually smooth-margined rather than undulate. Also, the fruits grow much, much larger, are pear-shaped and edible.
  • Crataegus spp – there are multiple Crataegus species in its range in North America that, like many Rosaceae, have very similar flowers. However, Crataegus species always have variously lobed leaves compared to the simple unlobed leaves of Pyrus calleryana.
  • Prunus avium – the Wild Cherry has a similar range, similar leaves and flowers. Its bark is smoother and shinier, lacking any longitudinal or horizontal grooving. The smooth bark does, however, possess numerous horizontal lenticels (slightly raised striations). Its fruits are also larger and of varying shades of red or sometimes yellow when ripe. The fruits have a single pit and are edible.
  • Prunus mahaleb – the St. Lucia Cherry or American Black Cherry has a similar range, leaves and flowers as well. However, it never grows to more than a large shrub up to 5 m tall. Its bark lacks the grooves of Pyrus calleryana and it has horizontal striations. Its bitter fruits are also black when ripe and possess a single pit.
  • Prunus mexicana – the Mexican Plum has a similar range, leaves and flowers as well. However, its filaments on its many stamens are often pink, the flowers are often pinkish-white, and its fruits are larger, plum-like and pinkish to purple when ripe rather than brown.
  • Prunus cerasifera – the Myrobalan Plum or Plum-Cherry has similar flowers, leaves and range. However, its flowers are either white or pink and the anthers are typically yellow rather than reddish or brownish. The fruits are yellow to reddish in color when ripe and are edible and larger, to 2-3 cm in diameter.
  • Prunus serotina – the Capulin or Black Cherry has a similar range, leaves and flowers too but the flowers grow in elongated racemes instead of umbels. Also, its bark is more smooth and covered with horizontal striations. The somewhat bitter fruits are a bit larger and are reddish-black to black in color with a single pit as opposed to brown with multiple seeds.
  • Viburnum prunifolium – this Rosaceae member has similar leaves and range as Pyrus communis. However, its flowers are much smaller, to 0.9 cm in diameter, they only have 5 stamens, and they are arranged in tighter umbels with more flowers.

Native Distribution of Pyrus calleryana

The Callery Pear is native to Asia in China, Japan, Korea, Taiwan and Vietnam.

Habitat Types Where Bradford Pear is Found

Callery Pear can be found growing in empty lots, mixed forests, forest edges, thickets and plains. It can grow from 0 – 800 m in elevation. It prefers full sun but can tolerate part shade. Pyrus calleryana does not grow in full shade.

Pyrus calleryana is tolerant of a very wide range of soil types and pH. It easily tolerates the poor soils and polluted conditions of living in urban environments. It can grow in poor and rich soil alike. Callery Pear tolerates a range of soil conditions and will tolerate temporarily water-logged soils and temporary droughts. However, it will not survive extended periods of flooding or extended periods of drought.

Human Uses of Bradford Pear

Callery Pear Pyrus calleryana as Ornamental or Tools

The Bradford Pear was widely planted in the USA in the 1960s and 1970s as a fast-growing and low-maintenance landscape tree. As a landscape tree, it produces abundant white flowers in spring and has red foliage in the fall making it a desirable ornamental despite the malodorous flowers. Callery Pear is often used as a rootstock to graft fruit cultivars onto.

Callery Pear wood, like all Pyrus wood, is very fine-textured and sometimes used for making musical instruments, veneer, woodcuts, or other fine wooden products.

Distribution of Pyrus calleryana in North America

The species was first brought to North America in 1909. It was later widely planted in the 1960s and 1970s in the USA.

In Canada, Pyrus calleryana has not yet been recorded on Canadensys. However, there have been reports on iNaturalist in southern Ontario, Nova Scotia and possibly in southern BC. It is not clear if those are all planted or wild specimens. Given that it is invasive just south of the border in these locations it seems likely that it may start spreading more into Canada soon.

In the USA, Callery Pear has been introduced in Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Virginia, Delaware, Washington DC, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, and Massachusetts. On iNaturalist it is also reported in Colorado and all along the west coast but most of these may be intentional plantings of cultivars that may or may not yet have escaped into the wild.

In Mexico Pyrus calleryana so far has only been reported in Tamaulipas. Given its close proximity to the northern Mexican border on the US side, it is likely that it will spread more in the near future.

How Callery Pear Spreads

Callery Pear is primarily spread through long-distance by deliberate human introductions as garden and landscape ornamentals. While the Bradford Pear itself is infertile it can cross-pollinate with other cultivars of Pyrus calleryana and the Asian Pear Pyrus betulifolia which can then produce fertile seeds and spread in the wild. Also, fertile varieties are often used as the rootstock when grafting. If the infertile crown of the tree is damaged sometimes the fertile rootstock will then grow and produce fertile fruits.

Short-distance dispersal occurs primarily through birds and humans. The hard fruits become soft after a frost and are a popular winter food source for winter birds in North America. The birds eat the winter fruits and spread the abundant fertile seeds in their feces. Even without fruits Callery Pear also reproduces short distances vegetatively through suckers.

Humans can also spread the seeds short distances unintentionally on their shoes or clothes. Often the disposal of unwanted trees or branches removed from pruning while in fruit results in infestations from yard waste piles when they are not burned or properly disposed of.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Callery Pear often forms dense patches in abandoned fields, empty lots, disturbed areas and on roadsides. It can invade any riparian area, open mixed forests, meadows, thickets, mountain slopes and anywhere else its fertile seeds land and grow. Since it is tolerant of such a wide range of soil conditions this means that many habitats are at risk.

It generally will not invade dense forests, particularly coniferous ones. Also, it typically does not invade permanent wetlands except where drier conditions exist. It does not tolerate severe drought so will not invade desert areas.

Impacts of Invasion by Pyrus calleryana

Pyrus calleryana often creates dense near monoculture stands, particularly in disturbed areas, roadsides and old fields. It can also gain a significant foothold in open mixed forests. They out-compete the native vegetation and significantly reduce the biodiversity in the area upon infestation. Once a dense stand is created it can be difficult to remove.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Birds enjoy Callery Pears abundant fruits throughout the winter, including many native birds. However, the birds are the primary dispersal method and would likely have eaten native fruits left on trees that were displaced by the Callery Pear.

Methods to Remove Bradford or Callery Pear

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Pyrus calleryana cultivars. Even though Bradford Pear themselves may be infertile they can cross-pollinate with other cultivars and escape into the wild. Do not plant it in your yard. Instead, research native species to your region. Native species require little or no maintenance, are very beautiful and provide wildlife and biodiversity values.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Inform them that though supposedly infertile they are still able to cross-pollinate with other cultivars and they are spreading in the wild. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Physical Control of Bradford or Callery Pear

Once already established physical control is always the most effective means to remove Callery Pear. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but it causes the least amount of environmental damage.

The best time to remove Callery Pear is in the early spring either before or during flowering but before the plant sets fruit to avoid dispersing the seeds around.

Physical methods to remove Callery Pear depend on the size. Young seedlings or trees can simply be pulled out. When the ground is moist it makes removal easy as the roots cling less tightly to the soil when it is moist. Young trees can be pulled out with a weed-puller like the one shown in the affiliate ads below.

Mature trees on the other hand will need to be cut down and then the root pulled out by digging it with a shovel or machine, depending on the size. If it is too difficult to remove the root then you can deal with it one of three ways. First, you can solarize the stump with a plastic tarp by laying the tarp over the stump and weighing it down with rocks. Leave it like that at least until the following year. The second method is to return to the site every year and cut any sprouts that try to grow. Eventually, it will starve out the root. The final method is to chemically treat the stump with a herbicide.

Another method to control large trees in areas that make them difficult to remove is to ring the bark. Using a very sharp knife cut into the bark and remove a horizontal patch at least 5 cm wide all the way around the tree. Be sure to remove all bark in this patch down to the heartwood. This prevents the tree from transporting nutrients and water up and the products of photosynthesis down. This effectively starves the tree so that it will eventually die. It would still need monitoring however to be sure that no new sprouts try to start from its stump.

Disposal of the Trees Once Removed

If you have plants that have seeds on them they must either be burned or solarized. Do not dispose of them in yard waste if they have mature fruits. Large trees can also be cut into firewood. If you do not have a fireplace and are not allowed yard burning in your area then you will need to solarize them before disposal. To solarize put the trees under a thick black tarp and leave them in the full sun for a good 6 – 10 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. If there are no fruits on the trees you can dispose of them in yard waste.

Chemical Control of Bradford or Callery Pear

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. It is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Pyrus calleryana. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

However, the one suitable exception is the chemical treatment of large root stocks that you are unable to dig out mechanically or by hand. Ideally solarize or return to the area as part of an ongoing monitoring process. If you are unable to do either then chemical control of Callery Pear stumps can be a good alternative as you are only treating the stump to prevent re-sprouting. Research herbicides safe for use in your area and treat only the stump. If it is in a riparian area you may not be able to use this method due to proximity to water. Ideally you should still return the following year to be sure that nothing survived.

Biological Control of Callery Pear

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of plants and their seeds to actually control the Callery Pear on their own.

Unfortunately, Pyrus calleryana seems resistant to pests of all kinds. It is part of what made it desirable as a landscape plant. Also, finding suitable pathogens is tricky because if they could be found even testing them in the field could put commercial Pyrus and Prunus crops at risk. While insects and grazers alike will feed on the pear, particularly when young, they are ineffective as a control measure on their own. And once Pyrus calleryana reaches a significant size large herbivores will no longer be able to reach the foliage.

However, young stands of Callery Pears could be controlled with the use of goats which are known to eat anything. Provided that all the trees are young and can be reached by the goats they can be penned in. They will continuously feed on the young trees and over time will destroy any sprouts or seedlings that emerge. This is only suitable in dense young stands, however, as the goats will also eat any native species in their vicinity. The goats would need to remain in the patch for a couple of seasons.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting and ongoing monitoring.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In most cases of removal, the site would ideally be replanted with native species to prevent invasive species from re-establishing in the bare soil that was left behind. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon the removal of Callery Pear. You would need to research plants native to your area and study the site to determine which species would be most suitable. Ideally, gather seed stock from the surrounding area to ensure you have local ecotypes suitable to the area. If this is not possible then buy from a nursery specializing in native species to ensure that you are not planting cultivars of native species.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Callery Pear removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Callery Pear is aggressive and prolific and can out-compete planted vegetation. Yearly monitoring to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established can prevent this. Yearly monitoring in late spring followed by removal of all sprouts and seedlings will be sufficient for a monitoring program.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Pyrus calleryana https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrus_calleryana

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Hura polyandra Haba Habillo - Native Plant of the Week

Hura polyandra Haba tree's female flower and leaves
Hura polyandra Haba tree’s female flower and leaves

Habillo Hura polyandra – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

The first time I saw the large spines all over the trunk of this tree I was impressed. Hura polyandra is part of the Euphorbiaceae family and like many other members of this family the latex it secretes from its trunk and branches is highly toxic and can be fatal if ingested. Known locally as Haba or Habillo, depending on where you are, this tree is a formidable tree that demands respect by its very appearance.

I am not sure why exactly but I love poisonous, carnivorous, and otherwise weird and strange plants. And the more dangerous they look in terms of spines, thorns, etc the better. So when I saw this Haba tree and heard of its deadly latex, I fell in love. Then I saw the beautiful leaves, and later the amazing flowers and fruit, and I was even more in love. It is a magnificent tree!

Description of Habillo Hura polyandra

Stem & Leaves

Hura polyandra trunk with thorns
Hura polyandra trunk with thorns
Hura polyandra leaf showing toothed edges and prominent pinnate venation
Hura polyandra leaf showing toothed edges and prominent pinnate venation

Haba is a deciduous tree that grows up to 20 (-30) m tall and up to 45 (-70) cm wide with a straight trunk. The trunk is covered with numerous very sharp 0.6 – 1.4 cm long thorns originating from circular cushions on the trunk. It has a wide crown formed by thick horizontal branches and hanging twigs. The brownish-grey outer bark when young is smooth and covered densely with thorns but as it matures it has fewer thorns and the bark becomes more fissured and scaly. The inner bark is cream-colored and exudes abundant toxic latex.

Leaves are simple and arranged alternately on the branches hanging from long petioles 5 – 20 cm long. They are broadly ovate to orbicular in shape and measure 9 – 17 cm long and 9 – 16 cm wide. Leaf margins are toothed, the apex is thin-pointed acuminate while the base is cordate. Leaf margins have small white glands and there are 2 larger green glands at the base of each leaf. Leaves are bright lightish green or yellowish-green on both sides, but duller on the abaxial (lower) side. Leaf venation is pinnate and very prominent on the abaxial side.

Flowers & Fruits

Hura polyandra female flower
Hura polyandra female flower
Hura polyandra fruit
Hura polyandra fruit

Habillo is a monoecious tree having separate male and female flowers that appear on the same plant. Usually it flowers from June to August but can flower at other times of the year, depending on the weather and timing of the wet season.

Male flowers are in axillary spikes 12 -16 cm long on a hollow axis. They are sessile and lack petals. They are attached to a 1 – 1.5 cm long on a narrow conical axis with numerous sessile white anthers, somewhat reminiscent of a conifer male cone.

Female flowers on the other hand are solitary, axillary on peduncles up 10 10 cm long. They also lack petals, are zygomorphic and are 6 – 7 cm long. It has a superior multilocular ovary topped with a thick fleshy circular style that is hollow at the top and it is divided into 15 – 19 conical fleshy long radially organized appendages (stigmas) that appear somewhat petal-like at first glance.

Its fruit is a large 5 – 10 cm diameter and 5 – 6 cm tall woody capsule that appears pumpkin-shaped. It is green when young but turns brown as it matures and becomes covered in numerous lenticels. When fully mature it breaks into 15 – 19 explosively dehiscent segments (carpels). They explode with such force they can be heard from far away and seeds are scattered tens of meters from the parent plant. Seeds are dark brown and discoid in shape.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Without foliage or flowers, people sometimes confuse Haba with the Ceiba genus because of the large conical spines. However, the spines of Ceiba are much more geometrically, almost perfectly conical while Hura polyandra spines are a little smaller, still impressive, but smaller and less geometric. Then, as soon as either has leaves, flowers, or fruit they are very simple to differentiate because of the large wide ovate leaves of Hura polyandra as opposed to the compound leaves of the Ceiba genus. The flowers and fruits are also widely different, but the leaves will be enough to tell them apart.

Other than that there is one other Hura species with similar leaves and fruit that it could be mistaken with. It also shares some of the same range being native to the Caribbean, Florida USA, Central America, and tropical South America with some scattered individuals in southern Mexico. They can be differentiated by Hura crepitans evergreen as opposed to deciduous leaves, and its much larger size to 60 m as opposed to 30 m and its much larger leaves up to 60 cm wide as opposed to 16 cm wide in Hura polyandra.

Distribution of Haba Habillo Hura polyandra

Haba or Habillo is only found in Mexico and northern Central America, it is not found in the USA or Canada.

In Mexico Hura polyandra is found in Sinaloa, Durango, Nayarit , Jalisco, Colima, Michoacan, Guerrero, Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, Veracruz, Chiapas, Tabasco, Quintana Roo, and possibly also in Morelos and Tamaulipas.

In Central America Haba or Habillo is found in Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, and Costa Rica.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Habillo, Haba

Hura polyandra grows in dry, deciduous forests in regions with long dry seasons and periods of drought. It grows in full sun and part shade. Haba tolerates thin, rocky soils common in dry forests. It grows from low to middle elevations up to 1200 m above sea level.

Growing Haba in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They also provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

If you live in a warm southern climate Habillo will be very easy to grow. Starting trees from seed can be a tedious process however as it takes several years for them to get to a size where they can be transplanted in your garden. So far, likely due to toxicity, this plant is not seen for sale by nurseries. You could wildcraft some seeds, following good Ethical Wildcrafting principles of course. And then start the seeds and plant the tree once it is large enough.

It can be planted in poor soil in full sun, but amend the soil with some organic compost and also feed it a thin layer of top-dressing of compost to help retain moisture and provide food during its establishment phase. Once established it will require no further maintenance. It is a lovely tree with interesting spines, gorgeous leaves, unique flowers and fruits. A great addition to any garden. Just be sure to keep young children away from it.

Wildlife Values of Habillo

No information on wildlife values could be found. Personally, I have seen birds roosting in trees but I have never seen nesting. This may be because the trees I saw were all fairly young. Due to its toxicity, nothing is known to eat the leaves, seeds, flowers, or fruits.

Status of Hura polyandra

In Mexico Hura polyandra is considered Least Concern according to the IUCN who last assessed it in 2018. Its population based on the number of mature individuals is considered stable.

Haba or Habillo is not found in either USA or Canada.

Traditional or Other Uses of Habillo

Hura polyandra Medicinal Uses

Despite its toxic nature Hura polyandra is occasionally used medicinally. The seeds possess violent purgative properties. Leaves are used for various gastrointestinal complaints including stomach pain, constipation, and as a purgative. It used to also be commonly used to expel intestinal parasites. Due to its toxic nature that has resulted in numerous deaths the medicinal use of Hura polyandra is not recommended.

Habillo as an Ornamental or Tools

It is sometimes used as a living fence to denote property boundaries and is also used as an ornamental tree due to its beautiful leaves and interesting thorns when in the dry season. It is occasionally used as a street tree in some locations but its toxicity prevents its widespread use due to concerns of poisonings.

The latex is sometimes used to stun fish to facilitate their capture. Occasionally the seeds are fed to noxious animals to kill them.

The wood is sometimes used in carpentry but not often due to complaints of irritation from the sawdust when it gets into the eyes and lungs.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Hura polyandra

Ethical wildcrafting of Hura polyandra is not recommended. It is a dangerously toxic tree and for this reason, should never be used medicinally under any circumstances. If you are wildcrafting for other purposes as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 leaves or fruits you see.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Wear gloves when harvesting any part of the plant as the latex alone on the skin can cause severe dermatological reactions in sensitive individuals. Picked fruits and leaves can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants. As with any toxic plant ALWAYS label “TOXIC IF INGESTED” on the harvesting container, on the drying rack, and on storage jars where processed goods are stored. This will prevent anyone from mistaking it for something else and accidentally ingesting it, causing severe illness and possibly death.

To dry the leaves simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Fruits can be dried in the sun and when almost dry place them in a clear fine-mesh cloth bag or a paper bag so that when they split open the toxic seeds are contained within. Do not dry in a food dehydrator due to their toxicity, you would not want to contaminate any food dried afterward.

Once dried the leaves and seeds can be stored in a jar. Label your jar with the species name and the date of harvest, I also usually add the location of harvest for my own reference. As with any toxic plant ALWAYS label “TOXIC IF INGESTED” on the jar to prevent accidental poisonings.

References and Resources

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/62003558/149008229

Maya Ethnobotony on Hura polyandra http://www.maya-ethnobotany.org/plants-of-the-mayan-civilization-flowers-lumber-trees-mexico-belize-guatemala-honduras/hura-polyandra-euphorbiaceae-medicinal-plants-maya-culture-tropical-forest-species.php

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Kudzu Pueraria montana - Invasive Species of North America

Kudzu Pueraria montana plants in Vickery Creek Park, Roswell, Georgia
Kudzu Pueraria montana plants in Vickery Creek Park, Roswell, Georgia

Introduction

Kudzu is the collective term for several Pueraria species, members of the Fabaceae family. There are multiple species and varieties that can be difficult to distinguish and there is some debate as to whether we even should, or just lump them into one or two more variable species. Regardless of the species debate Pueraria species are highly aggressive and invasive weeds in most places where they are introduced. I have only seen them a few times myself when I was in the eastern USA but there they grow over top of everything, including the other aggressive native and non-native vines found there. Kudzu was encouraged to be planted by the US government in the 1940s for erosion control. Now millions of dollars are spent annually trying to control or remove Kudzu. It is often referred to as “the vine that ate the south”.

Description of Pueraria montana

Leaves & Stems

Kudzu Pueraria montana leaves closeup

Kudzu vines are part of the Pueraria genus in the Fabaceae (legume) family of the Fabales order of dicot flowering plants. The most common species in North America is Pueraria montana var lobata, but many people still refer to it as Pueraria montana. The distinctions are subtle, and the vines in North America of all Pueraria species are able to hybridize and distinctions between them become hazy. Once identified to the species level, for the sake of treating it as a noxious weed at least, further classification is rarely necessary and may be left to a professional. The characteristics described here define Pueraria montana in all its variants and subspecies forms.

Pueraria montana is a herbaceous perennial vine that will climb over anything when it is able or sprawl across the ground where there is nothing to climb. It has strong stems that are 0.6 – 2.5 cm in diameter and can be up to 30 m in length. They are incredibly fast-growing, up to 25 cm per day or 18 m in the growing season where the conditions are right.

Kudzu grows from enormous tubers that are up to 2 m long and 18 – 45 cm wide that can weigh up to 180 kg on mature individuals. Like many Fabaceae, it is capable of nitrogen fixation through its root nodules allowing it to grow in poor soil conditions.

Kudzu has pinnately arranged trifoliate leaves 8 – 20 cm long and 5 – 19 cm wide. Its leaflets are ovate to orbicular and are either entire or lobed. Leaflets are pale green above and paler to grayish-green below. They are usually hairy on the abaxial (under) side.

Flowers & Fruits

The fragrant pea-like flowers are reddish, purplish or bluish in color and frequently have yellow patches. Flowers grow from the leaf axils in elongated mostly unbranched inflorescences 10 – 25 cm long. Each flower is 2 – 2.5 cm wide.

The fruits are flattened oblong pods that are 4 – 13 cm long and 0.6 – 1.3 cm wide. They are green when young but turn brown with golden hairs when they mature. The flattened ovoid seeds are visible through the pods and are 4 – 5 mm long by 4 mm wide. They are reddish-brown when mature. While Kudzu is fully capable of pollinator-assisted sexual reproduction it relies mostly on vegetative reproduction to spread.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

It is difficult to confuse Kudzu with other genera due to the large ovate trifoliate leaves. Sometimes people mistake English Ivy Hedera helix or Poison Ivy Toxicodendron radicans because they have a similar range. However, neither of these are from the Pea family and will have very different flowers. Also, their leaflets in general are much smaller and seldom to never ovate in shape. The only other vine of the pea family that it could be mistaken with is Amphicarpaea bracteata described below.

There are 2 Kudzu species in the Americas, and one of the species has a variant that is similar enough to simply be a variant and in most cases identification down to the variant level is unnecessary. Some people believe Pueraria montana var lobata is the one whose leaflets are lobed, but Pueraria montana itself may also have lobed leaves. Differences are subtle, and many hybridize, so we will leave Pueraria montana identification to the species level only here. The other species is often referred to as Tropical Kudzu and it has a much more limited distribution. It can be differentiated as follows:

  • Tropical Kudzu Pueraria phaseoloides – is only found in a handful of locations in the eastern USA and in Veracruz, Mexico. Its flowers are white and purple instead of red, blue or purple with yellow. Its leaflets tend to be much smaller, but can sometimes grow as large, and they tend to be triangular but occasionally may be ovate. And they can also hybridize with the other Pueraria species, further blurring the lines of identification.
  • American Hog-Peanut Amphicarpaea bracteata – native to the eastern USA and grows in similar habitats as Kudzu and has trifoliate leaves that look similar, but are usually much smaller. Its flowers are smaller and fewer and are usually white or light pink, never red, blue or purple. Its fruit is usually much smaller and is never golden-hairy.

Native Distribution of Pueraria montana

Pueraria montana is native to East Asia, southeast Asia and some Pacific Islands. It is common in China and Japan.

Habitat Types Where Kudzu is Found

Kudzu can grow in most habitats including forests, riparian areas, roads, fields, along fence rows, and any abandoned lots, buildings, waste areas etc. It is often seen hanging off of trees it has killed, telephone poles, abandoned buildings, vehicles, etc. In China it is often seen on road embankments and in mountains where the land cannot be cultivated.

Kudzu is an opportunistic vine that grows in almost any soil type excluding very wet soils or those with high pH. It can easily grow in nutrient-poor sandy or clayey soils though it prefers well-drained loam.

Human Uses of Kudzu

Kudzu as Food

The large tubers of Kudzu are frequently eaten as a starchy root vegetable. Kudzu leaves, shoots and flowers are often steamed or pickled and eaten as a vegetable.

Kudzu vines are often used as a nutritious forage for livestock.

Kudzu as Medicine

Kudzu root, flower, and leaf have all been used to make medicines, especially in China since at least 200 BC. It is used to treat a variety of ailments including heart and circulatory problems, high blood pressure, chest pain, sinus infections, colds, hay fever, flu and skin problems including allergies, itchiness and psoriasis. It is also sometimes used to treat menopause, muscle pains, measles, dysentery, gastritis, fever, diarrhea, stiff neck, polio, encephalitis, migraine, diabetes and traumatic injury.

Kudzu is a common treatment for hangovers from too much alcohol and has been used in China and Japan for this since 600 AD. It is still widely used today to reduce the symptoms of hangovers including headaches, upset stomach, vomiting, and dizziness.

Kudzu as Ornamental

Kudzu is often used as a garden ornamental. It is sometimes also used to stabilize slopes. Due to its noxious nature, this is done less often now, but still occasionally happens.

Distribution of Pueraria spp in North America

Kudzu was first brought to the USA from Japan at the Japanese pavilion in the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. It was extensively planted in the US in the 1930s and 1940s to control erosion. While multiple species have been introduced and have spread the most abundant species in North America is Pueraria montana var lobata.

In Canada, Pueraria montana has so far only been recorded in Ontario and was only discovered in 2009. Given that it is in Washington state just south of the British Columbia, Canada border it is likely only a matter of time before it appears in British Columbia.

In the USA, Kudzu is found in Washington, Oregon, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Washington DC, West Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Maine. It is also found in Hawaii, the Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico.

In Mexico Pueraria spp so far has been reported in Pueblo, and possibly in Oaxaca, Guerrero, Nayarit, Jalisco and Veracruz but the identifications could not be confirmed without flowers.

Kudzu has now been introduced on every continent except Antarctica.

How Kudzu Spreads

It is primarily spread through long distance by deliberate human introductions as a garden ornamental or landscape plant. It can be ordered online or purchased in local garden nurseries in some states. It is regulated as a pest in Canada and more difficult to purchase, though online sales are seldom regulated.

Seed dispersal is responsible for a small fraction of its spread. Seeds transported in soil will result in some short distance dispersal. However, short distance dispersal occurs mostly through vegetative reproduction as it is capable of rooting from its stem anywhere it touches soil of any quality. It can grow substantially in subtropical areas, up to 18 m in a single growing season. Yard debris piles where careless discarding of vines removed from yards is a significant source of introduction into the wild as is escaping from the yard itself to adjacent land.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Any open forest, forest edge, field, abandoned lot, riparian area, etc is at risk of invasion by Kudzu, particularly if they are located next to a source of Kudzu. Because Kudzu primarily reproduces by vegetative spread this slows the rate of invasion quite significantly in terms of distance. In local areas, however, it can rapidly overtake everything.

Kudzu so far has spread widely throughout eastern USA but it will likely spread more north into southern Canada, though so far its range is limited to southern Ontario. Southern Quebec and the Atlantic Provinces are also at risk. It will not invade wetlands or deserts as it cannot tolerate permanently wet soils or extended periods of drought. It can handle drought, however, as long as they are not too severe. It may not invade much of the central North America due to harsher winters. However, with climate change that is unpredictable.

There is still a lot of habitat suitable for it particularly on the west coast of North America including all of the western USA as well as British Columbia, Canada, and parts of Mexico. So far early detection has controlled its spread in these regions.

Impacts of Invasion

Kudzu is a large and aggressive vine that grows over all other vegetation it encounters smothering it and killing it creating monocultures. Even trees are eventually smothered and suffer from loss of photosynthetic capacity until eventually they die. Kudzu, therefore, results in dramatic losses of biodiversity in the area of infestation, negatively affecting native vegetation as well as wildlife that would otherwise feed, nest, or grow on the native plant species it displaces. Once introduced it is notoriously difficult to control.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Kudzu has often been used to stabilize slopes and does a good job of it. Also, it fixes almost all of its nitrogen and because of the die-back of its leaves it contributes a lot of nitrogen to the soil. After Kudzu is removed, providing you are successful in removing it, the soil is often richer as a result. However, the fact that it smothers and kills all other plant life growing in its vicinity outweighs its benefit as a soil stabilizer and enricher.

Kudzu growing over and smothering all vegetation in its path, Piedmont Park, Georgia, Photo from Wikipedia see credits below
Kudzu growing over and smothering all vegetation in its path, Piedmont Park, Georgia, Photo from Wikipedia see credits below.

Methods to Remove Kudzu

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in some local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Kudzu plants or roots and never plant them in your yard. It is illegal to purchase in many states and provinces. However, online sales are rarely properly regulated.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Once established in an area Kudzu is notoriously difficult to eradicate. Its extremely fast growth and its ability to smother everything in its path combined with its rapid ability to produce roots at any node which touches the soil all makes it difficult to control. Intensive ongoing effort and an integrated management approach are required in order to control or remove Kudzu infestations.

Physical Control of Kudzu

Once already established physical control is very challenging. Physical control of Kudzu is labor-intensive and time-consuming but will cause far less environmental damage than chemical control.

Since Kudzu spreads mostly vegetatively it can be removed in spring, summer, or fall without having to worry much about the seeds. If there are mature seeds on the plants clip them off into a paper bag to keep them contained in case they are fertile and can produce new plants.

The vines should be cut with hand cutters or loppers and pulled down from trees and structures they are climbing on. Then the tubers and all new roots will need to be carefully removed. Since it grows so quickly the biggest challenge in Kudzu removal is that every root crown must be destroyed or the population will recover. Physical removal must be part of an integrated management approach with continuous ongoing monitoring in order to be successful. The area will need to be revisited multiple times the first year to out compete its rapid growth and re-vegetation rate. Then the site will need to be revisited for 4 – 10 years afterward to ensure that every vine that tries to re-establish is destroyed. Even if a single root crown survives and is left to grow within just a few years it could take over the entire area once again.

Mechanical mowing of ground cover patches in flat open areas is a somewhat less labor-intensive approach that can be successful. Mowing repeatedly throughout the growing season for 3 – 5 years in a row will starve out the roots. Eventually, the plants will die without having above-ground material to photosynthesize in order to keep the roots alive.

Prescribed burning can be used in early spring before fire season if your area allows it. This will kill small kudzu plants and sever the climbing stems that are in the trees, poles, etc. Burning may not be effective for larger plants with intensive root systems as the fire may not ever get hot enough. Also, fire alone will not work. It will need to be followed up with physical removal and of course ongoing monitoring.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

Plants including roots, stems and seeds all must be either burned or solarized before disposal to prevent new populations from beginning at the disposal site. Burning is an effective method to destroy the plant matter, but it is not allowed in some areas or in certain seasons. In this case, solarize them instead. To solarize put the vines into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 6 – 8 weeks at least to be sure that none of the roots, stems or seeds are no longer viable. Do not try to solarize them on the ground under a tarp. Due to its extremely fast growth rate and rapid rooting at nodes the vines may be able to grow out from under the tarp and start new plants before the ones under the tarp are properly destroyed.

Once solarized the vines can be disposed of at your local garbage dump. Be sure to still inform them that they are an invasive species so that they can be disposed of accordingly, just in case there are still viable stems.

Chemical Control of Kudzu

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Kudzu. And due to the highly aggressive nature, large tuberous roots, and extremely fast growth rate of Kudzu multiple applications are always needed in a single growing season. If even a single root crown survives the treatment and goes undetected within a few years the Kudzu will again take over the area. Therefore applications must continue for 4 – 10 years after the initial treatment. If chemical control alone is used there will be an enormous amount of toxic chemicals being dumped into the environment, making it less suitable for native species.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Kudzu

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy 100% of the vines, their stems, their roots, and their seeds in order to remove Kudzu on its own.

However, with Kudzu biological control is possibly going to be the most effective means with the least amount of effort due to its rapid growth rate and difficulty controlling it by other means. Particularly with large infestations or those near a large source of Kudzu, biological control may be the most desirable. It still of course must be done as part of an integrated management approach that uses physical removal of those unaffected by the biological treatment along with essential ongoing monitoring for multiple years.

Following is a list of biological control methods that have been used in North America in an attempt to help reduce the population densities of Pueraria montana and varieties.

Pathogens both native and non-native to North America have been isolated from Kudzu populations.

  • Pseudomonas syringae pv. phaseolicola a plant pathogen native to North America that causes halo blight of legume plants was tested to control Kudzu. It caused high mortality on young and old growth. However, it performed much less well under dry conditions in the field.
  • Myrothecium verrucaria is another native fungus that showed greater potential success in the field as it did not require such moist conditions. High mortality rates were observed in the field, and they even performed even better in the heat of summer. Since the application requires the use of a surfactant it keeps the risk of the fungus spreading beyond the application area minimal. However, the fungus did show high toxicity to mammals so extreme caution by professionals is required for application in the field.
  • Alternaria and Fusarium fungal species are currently being developed in the USA for potential biological control of Kudzu and other weeds.

Heavy grazing by livestock such as by cows, pigs, horses or goats can also be used to remove Kudzu as part of an integrated management approach. This would only work in groundcover patches though as the animals cannot eat the vines in the trees or on buildings. The animals would need to be fenced in the Kudzu patch for long periods of time to be effective at controlling Kudzu on their own.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In all cases of removal, the site should be planted after the Kudzu is removed. This cannot be done immediately upon the first removal, however, due to the extreme growth rate of Kudzu. But replanting should be commenced in years 2 – 4, depending on the patch dynamics. Replanting with aggressive native species will help keep the Kudzu at bay. However, ongoing monitoring to remove any new seedlings or sprouts of Kudzu will still need to be intensely carried out. If a single root crown survives it will still grow over and smother any vegetation that is planted.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Kudzu removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Monitoring is important for all invasive species removal, but perhaps Kudzu most of all. The extreme growth and survival rate of stems and roots requires extreme diligence in monitoring. Repeated monitoring for the first couple of years should be carried out on a monthly basis during the growing season to remove any new growth. Then yearly monitoring programs should be put in place for a minimum of 4 years after the initial removal. Monthly monitoring can be reduced to every couple of months in years 2 and on, presuming there are few new individuals being found. An aggressive monitoring program is the only thing that will ensure the success of any biological, physical, or chemical removal or control of Kudzu.

References and Resources

CABI on Pueraria montana https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/45903

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Kudzu Photo Smothering Trees in Georgia by Scott Ehardt, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Kudzu_on_trees_in_Atlanta,_Georgia.jpg

RxList.com for Medicinal Uses of Kudzu https://www.rxlist.com/kudzu/supplements.htm

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Calycanthus floridus Carolina Allspice Sweetshrub - Native Species of the Week

Calycanthus floridus Sweetbush or Carolina Allspice flowers and leaves
Calycanthus floridus Sweetbush or Carolina Allspice flowers and leaves

Eastern Sweetshrub Carolina Allspice Calycanthus floridus – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

The first time I saw Carolina Allspice or Eastern Sweetshrub blooming in the forest I was thrilled. Its unique burgundy-red flowers intrigued me and I knew it was special. Calycanthus floridus is part of the Calycanthaceae family in the Laurales order of flowering plants. Laurales are neither monocots nor dicots. Instead, Laurales are one of the earliest lineages of angiosperms that evolved, part of the Magnoliids. They are a diverse clade that share some features with monocots, dicots, and even gymnosperms the naked seed plants (conifer trees etc). If you just take a look at its tepals and numerous free carpels, you can tell it is different from most other typical flowering plants. And the added bonus is that the entire plant has an amazing aroma.

Description of Eastern Sweetshrub or Carolina Allspice

Stem & Leaves

Calycanthus floridus is a deciduous shrub of the Calycanthaceae family of the Laurales order of Basal Angiosperms. It is an understorey shrub that grows to 3.5 m tall and up to 3 m wide with multiple erect branches. Its bark is reddish-brown when young then turns a light brown color with age. The bark develops numerous small horizontal lenticels. The bark itself, like the rest of the plant, is aromatic. It frequently propagates vegetatively via root suckers to produce small clonal patches of the same plant. However, it is considered non-invasive.

The leaves are arranged oppositely in pairs along the stems. They are elliptic, oblong or ovate and 5 – 15 cm long by 2 – 6 cm wide. The base of the leaves are acute to truncate. The apex of the leaves may be acute, acuminate or blunt. Margins are smooth without any teeth or lobes. The adaxial (upper) surface is green or dark green. Its abaxial surface is green or glaucous and may be glabrous or pubescent. The leaves are on 3 – 10 mm long petioles (leaf stalks) that are pubescent or glabrous. Its lateral buds are partly hidden by the base of the petioles. The leaves are deciduous and turn a golden-yellow in the fall before they drop off for the winter.

Flowers & Fruits

Calycanthus floridus flower closeup, from Marietta, Georgia, USA
Calycanthus floridus flower closeup, from Marietta, Georgia, USA

The aromatic flowers appear from April to July depending on latitude, aspect etc. They are solitary, reddish-brown, reddish-purple or burgundy in color. It possesses virtually identical-looking tepals rather than separate sepals and petals, similar to the monocots. It has 7 – 20 tepals that are oblongelliptic to obovatelanceolate. They are 20 – 40 mm long and 3 – 8 mm wide with an acute apex. The hypanthium (base or cup of the flower) is 20 – 60 mm in diameter by 10 – 30 mm high at maturity and may be cylindrical, ellipsoid, pyriform or globose when mature.

It has 10 – 20 oblong stamens. There are numerous free carpels in the center.

Its fruit is a green leathery and wrinkled urn-shaped indehiscent pseudocarp from an accessory receptacle. It is up to 8 cm long and 5 cm wide by the time it matures and turns brown in the fall. The fruit persists on the shrub all winter. Inside the fruit are numerous 1 seeded brown achenes (seeds) that are each 10 mm long by 5 mm wide.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

The unique flowers and aroma of this plant make it hard to confuse with others. However, there is another species in the same genus and another aromatic shrub with unique red flowers in the same region that it could be confused with.

  • Calycanthus occidentalis – this is the Western Sweetshrub native to the western USA. However, it is found only sporadically in the east where it was likely introduced. It is a taller shrub that grows to 4 m and its lateral buds are more exposed rather than hidden by the petiole. Its leaf bases are rounded to cordate rather than acute to truncate and its apex is rounded rather than blunt, acute or acuminate.
  • Illicium floridanum – Star Anise is an evergreen shrub native to the southeastern USA. It is also very aromatic and possesses somewhat similar flowers around the same size with similar colored tepals. However, it usually possesses more tepals, from 21 – 33. It also has more stamens anywhere from 25 – 50. It produces characteristic star-shaped fruits rather than urn-shaped ones. And it retains its leaves all winter.
  • Calycanthus hybrids – there are now several hybrids and cultivars grown in gardens throughout the USA but they generally are not found outside of cultivation. They also typically possess larger flowers with more tepals, and their tepals may vary more in color, depending on the cultivar.

Distribution of Eastern Sweetshrub Calycanthus floridus

Carolina Allspice is found only in the eastern USA. iNaturalist reported two locations in southern Ontario, Canada. However, both locations were on roads in residential areas so they were likely planted there rather than occurring naturally.

In the USA, Eastern Sweetshrub is found in Missouri, Illinois, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky, Virginia, Washington DC, West Virginia, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Delaware, New York, Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Habitat and Growing Conditions of Eastern Sweetshrub

Eastern Sweetshrub grows in full sun to full shade. It is common in open, mixed, and deciduous forests where it gets enough light to grow as an understory shrub. In shadier areas it will still grow but is generally taller with less width and less flowering. It also grows at forest edges and openings and on moist hillsides.

Carolina Allspice prefers moderate soil moisture levels and loamy soil. However, it will tolerate wet and clayey soil types and can even tolerate some temporary flooding. It does less well in sandy soils prone to drought but will occasionally grow there. It grows well in mildly acidic soils. Carolina Allspice will tolerate alkaline soils but will not tolerate saline soil conditions.

Growing Calycanthus floridus in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

Calycanthus floridus is a wonderful addition to your eastern garden. It is a beautiful sweet-smelling shrub with gorgeous flowers. Since it is already used as a landscape plant it should be relatively easy for you to find shrubs to plant in your yard rather than having to start them from seed. Since they will grow from seed and also spread vegetatively you could also harvest some from the wild for propagation using ethical wildcrafting principles of course. While the cultivars are lovely so are the wild varieties and they provide added biodiversity values. Or you can always grow both!

Eastern Sweetshrub plants are super easy to grow. Plant your shrubs in any well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. While they do tolerate most soil conditions they prefer a rich loam. If grown in the shade it will grow taller and a bit lankier. If you live in a particularly hot climate they will benefit from a little afternoon shade. In either case prune immediately after flowering if you want it to maintain its compact shape. Or you can let it grow to its conditions, depending on where you plant it.

Maintenance

Pruning will keep its shape if that is what you want. Also, it tends to produce root suckers so if you don’t want it to naturalize just remove the suckers as they grow. They do not grow very rapidly so once every year or two is more than sufficient maintenance.

Mulch annually every early spring with organic compost to feed it to encourage more blossoms.

Otherwise, it is a hearty plant that tolerates cold, heat, some seasonal flooding, moderate drought and even mild fires. It is virtually insect and disease-free. Deer and rabbits seldom graze on its aromatic foliage. It is a very low-maintenance and highly resistant plant that also happens to be beautiful!

Wildlife Values of Carolina Allspice

Carolina Allspice attracts numerous pollinators including bees and lots of butterflies. Beetles are also attracted to the flowers. It is a host plant for native butterflies.

Status of Calycanthus floridus

Carolina Allspice is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In the USA Calycanthus floridus is considered locally Secure S5 only in North Carolina. It is considered Vulnerable S3 just north of North Carolina in West Virginia. Sweetbush is considered Imperiled S2 in Kentucky and Florida. In Virginia it is considered Critically Imperiled S1. It is presumed to be extirpated (locally extinct) in Ohio, though I did not find information as to whether or not it was actually native there. USDA lists it as being introduced in the northern states of Illinois, Maryland, Delaware, Washington DC, Pennsylvania, and New York. In all other states where it is found it is as yet unranked.

Eastern Sweetshrub is not found in either Canada or Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses of Eastern Sweetshrub or Carolina Allspice

Carolina Allspice as Food

The bark is fragrant and edible and is sometimes used as a substitute for cinnamon, which is where it gets the common name of Carolina Allspice from.

The petals of the flowers are sometimes used in tea. Caution is advised though as the plant contains alkaloids that could lead to heart convulsions in sensitive individuals so use in moderation.

Calycanthus floridus Medicinal Uses

The Cherokee people of the eastern US have used Calycanthus floridus in numerous medicinal applications. Resins from the bark were used on sores and wounds and used in an infusion for hives. It was frequently used as a dermatological aid for children in particular. A cold infusion of the bark was used as an eyewash for those who were losing their eyesight. A strong decoction of the roots makes a powerful emetic to induce vomiting and in milder forms it was used to treat urinary infections. An infusion of the bark was also used for urinary complaints. Occasionally all parts of the plants were used as in incense or perfume.

Herbalists today occasionally use it as an antispasmodic and disinfectant. It makes a powerful heart depressant, however, and should be used with caution.

Eastern Sweetshrub as an Ornamental

Due to its lovely fragrance and beautiful spring flowers, it is often used as an ornamental plant in gardens in borders, native plant gardens, butterfly gardens, etc. It is also occasionally used in cut flower arrangements, dried flowers and potpourri for its lovely fragrance.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Calycanthus floridus

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states. See above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for its lovely leaves and flowers and its non-invasive nature.

If you are harvesting Calycanthus floridus from the wild as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, leaves or plant suckers that you see. If harvesting the bark never ring the shrub as you will kill it. The best practice for harvesting bark from a shrub with plenty of branches is to harvest a single branch from a large, healthy specimen and scrape it entirely.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits, leaves, bark or roots can be placed in a basket, bowl or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day be sure to label the plant parts in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

To dry the leaves or flowers simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Bark can be scraped off the branch and then dried the same way as flowers or leaves. Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

Once dried the leaves, flowers, bark and roots can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of harvest for my own reference. The potency of medicines can vary with the location so I like to know where something came from in case I find it particularly potent or weak. Do not grind or crush any plant parts until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties. This renders them ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

North Carolina Extension Gardener on Calycathus floridus https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/calycanthus-floridus/

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Calycanthus floridus https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calycanthus_floridus

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!