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Cornus canadensis Dwarf Dogwood - Native Plant of North America

Cornus canadensis Dwarf Dogwood or Bunchberry - Note the creamy white flowers in the center of the four showy white bracts.  Flowers do not have the purple tips of Cornus unalschkensis that has a more coastal limited distribution.
Cornus canadensis Dwarf Dogwood or Bunchberry – Note the creamy white flowers in the center of the four showy white bracts. Flowers do not have the purple tips of Cornus unalschkensis that have a more coastal limited distribution.

Dwarf Dogwood Bunchberry Cornus canadensis – Native Plant of North America

Introduction

Cornus canadensis is one of my favorite native plants of northern North America. I use an image of it for my logo, and I even have it in a tattoo. I have always loved driving in the mountains of British Columbia, where I was born and raised, and seeing the lovely mats of Dwarf Dogwood growing at the forest edges. It is a true icon of Canada and a fond memory of home. Dwarf Dogwood or Bunchberry is part of the Cornaceae or Dogwood family. It, like the name suggests, is a dwarf dogwood sub-shrub. Their lovely white ‘flowers’ are not the actual flowers of the plant. What people think of as 4 white petals are actually showy bracts (modified leaves). The actual flowers are the tiny tubular flowers clustered in the middle of the four white bracts.

Description of Bunchberry Dwarf Dogwood Cornus canadensis

Cornus canadensis Stem & Leaves

Cornus canadensis is a slow-growing herbaceous sub-shrub reaching 5-25 cm tall. It spreads from slender creeping rhizomes, often forming a small carpet of clonal plants. The thin stems grow vertically from the ground level, are appressed hairy, and are often branched but only at the most distant node.

While the leaves are technically arranged oppositely on the stem, they appear to be whorled because the internodes are so compressed. They are produced near the terminal node and appear in two sizes, usually with 2 larger and 4 smaller leaves, although sometimes they all appear to be the same size. The smaller leaves grow from the axillary buds of the 2 larger leaves.

Leaves grow on leaf stalks (petioles) that are 2-3 mm in length. The leaves are glossy dark green above and pale green below and are obovate in shape. They are 3.5 – 4.8 cm long and 1.5 – 2.5 cm wide with entire margins, wedge-shaped bases, and acuminate tips. In the fall, the leaves turn red.

Cornus canadensis Flowers

Cornus canadensis white 'flowers' are actually four petaloid bracts with an umbel of tiny white flowers in the center.

Flowers appear from late spring to mid-summer and are not the single large white flower they at first appear to be. Instead, the four white ‘petals’ are actually showy bracts that are ovate in shape and 0.8 – 1.2 cm long and 0.5 – 1.1cm wide with 7 parallel veins on them.

The actual flowers are white, 2 mm in diameter, and have recurved petals that are ovatelanceolate in shape. They are 1.5 – 2 cm long and grouped in tightly clustered terminal compound cymes of 12 – 40 flowers found in the center of the showy bracts, making them look like a single larger flower.

The tiny flowers have a tubular calyx (sepals) 1 mm long that is densely covered with pubescent hairs and adpressed greyish-white glandular hairs. The calyx is creamy white at first but turns purple as the fruit matures.

Cornus canadensis Fruits

The fruit is usually called a berry. However, botanically speaking, it is actually a small red drupe. The drupes appear in clusters of 4-15. They are red, globose in shape, and 6 – 9 mm in diameter. The seed is encased in a stone pit that is ovoid in shape and 2.3 – 3.3 mm by 1.7 – 2.3 mm in size.

Cornus unalaschkensis in fruit
Cornus unalaschkensis in fruit

Similar Species Cornus canadensis is Frequently Confused With

There are only a couple of unrelated species which are occasionally mistaken for Cornus canadensis, but they can easily be distinguished as follows:

  • Trillium grandiflorum has, at first glance, similarities with the ‘whorl‘ of green leaves and a single white flower in the center. However, the flower is not a collection of showy bracts surrounding tiny tubular flowers. Instead, it is a three-petaled white flower. Also, the leaves are in a whorl of 3 rather than 6. It is found in eastern Canada and the eastern US.
  • Lysimachia borealis Northern Starflower is a native plant found in central and eastern Canada and the eastern US that also has a collection of ‘whorled leaves’. However, it usually produces 2 or 3 white flowers on long flower stalks (pedicels), each with 7 white petals.

Cornus canadensis also has two look-alikes in the same genus. All other Cornus species in North America with showy petaloid bracts like these are trees or shrubs, making them easy to distinguish. The two low-growing subshrubs can be differentiated from Cornus canadensis as follows:

rnus unalaschkensis - note the purple-tipped flowers in the center of the showy white bracts - this differentiates it from Cornus canadensis
Cornus unalaschkensis – note the purple-tipped flowers in the center of the showy white bracts – this differentiates it from Cornus canadensis
  • Cornus unalaschkensis is found in Alaska, British Columbia, Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, and northern California. It is the most frequently confused species with Cornus canadensis because, at a quick glance, they look almost identical. Generally speaking, however, while the ranges come close, they do not typically grow together in the same area. This species is mostly confined to the Cascade Ranges of western North America though it does also go somewhat inland from there. Cornus canadensis, on the other hand, is much more widespread in North America. While they do appear very similar, upon closer inspection, their leaf stalks (petioles) are from 0 – 3.4 mm in length, so that if there is no petiole, it is likely Cornus unalaschkensis. Also, the bracts are often white but may also be greenish-white or red-tipped. Its flowers and calyx may be cream or mottled purple when in flower, not only when in fruit. This is often the easiest distinguishing factor. They also appear a bit more symmetrical in their leaf sizes and arrangement.
  • Cornus suecica Swedish Dwarf Dogwood is only found in Atlantic Canada and Alaska. It is also quite similar to Cornus canadensis but can easily be distinguished by its dark purple flowers that are never cream-colored. Furthermore, its bracts are often red or purple-tinged, and its fruits are slightly smaller, with only 3 – 8 drupes in a cluster. Its limited range and purple flowers make it fairly easy to differentiate the two species.

Distribution of Bunchberry Cornus canadensis

Dwarf Dogwood is a widespread northern North American species. The furthest south it is found is in the mountains of northern New Mexico. It is otherwise not found in southern North America.

In Canada, Bunchberry is found in every province and every territory.

In the USA, Bunchberry is found in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, North & South Dakota, Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, Illinois, Michigan, Indiana, Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, Virginia, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, Maryland, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine.

Dwarf Dogwood is not found in Mexico.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Bunchberry Cornus canadensis

Cornus canadensis is a mesophyte that requires cool and moist conditions in order to survive, which is why it is only found in northern North America and south as far as New Mexico but only in the mountains.

Its soil preference is on the acidic side.

It prefers partial shade but occasionally can be found in full sun conditions higher in the mountains where the soil is cool and moist.

Dwarf Dogwood lives in montane and boreal coniferous forests as well as mixed forests throughout its range. It is often found at forest edges both in the open and partway into the forest but is rarely found under a dense closed canopy. Often it frequents mossy areas and grows on old tree stumps.

Growing Cornus canadensis in Your Garden

Make sure that the chosen location in your garden is similar to how it grows in its natural environment. If you have partially shaded woods or the edge of a forest or tree habitat, that would be ideal. Otherwise, growing anywhere in partial to full shade will also work but be sure to amend the soil with lots of organic matter and keep the soil slightly on the acidic side.

Do not try to grow it in your garden in full sun, compact soil, alkaline soil, or hot climates, or it will not thrive. It grows best in USDA zones 2-6 in cool temperate climates. Other than that, it is an incredibly beautiful, low-maintenance plant that is super easy to grow once established if the conditions are right for it!

The most reliable and fastest way to propagate Cornus canadensis is by taking cuttings just below the soil surface in mid-summer. Plant them in light, humus-rich soil and keep them moist, and they should grow readily.

Seeds can take up to 3 years to germinate, but if you want to plant them from seed, they can also be planted outdoors in the fall. Bury them 1 – 2 cm deep and keep the soil moist.

If you are starting the seeds indoors, you will need to put the seeds in moistened coconut coir (a more sustainable and environmentally friendly substitute for peat moss) in your fridge for 3 months before sowing them as they require cold stratification in order to germinate.

Wildlife Values of Cornus canadensis

Native bees and hoverflies routinely visit the flowers, assisting in pollination.

Many native birds feed on the abundant small red drupes, which are the main agent for spreading the seeds.

Cornus canadensis is also an important forage plant for mule deer, black-tailed deer, and elk, which eat the leaves, flowers, and fruit.

Status of Cornus canadensis

Dwarf Dogwood is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In Canada, Dwarf Dogwood is considered Locally Secure S5 in British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland, including Labrador, and the Yukon Territories. It is currently unranked in the Northwest Territories and in Nunavut.

In the USA, Cornus canadensis is considered Apparently Secure S4 in Montana, North Dakota, and New York. In Colorado, it is considered Vulnerable S3. It is considered Imperiled S2 in Wyoming, California, West Virginia, and Rhode Island. It is Critically Imperiled S1 in New Mexico, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Virginia, Maryland, and New Jersey. In all other states where it is found (Washington, Oregon, Idaho, South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Connecticut, New Hampshire, Vermont, and Maine), it is as yet unranked.

Cornus canadensis is not found in Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses Dwarf Dogwood

Cornus canadensis Medicinal Uses

The Abenaki used a decoction of the whole plant as an analgesic, particularly for side pains. Algonquin people used an infusion of the leaves as a cathartic tea, and they used the whole plant with other plants as a remedy for colds and gynecological complaints.

The Carrier and Paiute people used a decoction of the plant (but not the berries) as an eyewash and to treat the eyes after removing foreign objects.

The Costanoan used a decoction of the inner bark to treat fevers, and Delaware used it for body pains. Iroquois used a decoction of the whole plant for colds, fevers, and tuberculosis.

Hoh and Quileute used the bark as a tonic, and they also dried and smoked the leaves.

The Malecite and Micmac used an infusion of the whole plant for convulsions and fits, and the Montagnais used it for paralysis.

Ojibwa used a root infusion to treat colic in infants.

The Thompson people used a powdered leaf or leaf ash to sprinkle on sores to help them heal.

Bunchberry as Food

The Abenaki, Algonquin, Chippewa, Cree, Eskimo, Kwakiutl, Makah, Nitinaht, Potawatomi, and Salish all ate the fruits as a food source, mostly fresh and raw.

Haisla and Hanaksiala used dried fruits as a winter food source, and they mixed fruits with oolichan grease as a dessert.

The Hesquiat mixed the raw fruits with dogfish oil and fed it to the elders as a special treat at feasts.

Hoh and Quileute people also used the fruits in ceremonies.

Dwarf Dogwood as an Ornamental

Cornus canadensis, while not widely used as a garden ornamental, it does make a lovely ground cover for forested or shady yards in northern North America.

The glossy green foliage and bright white bracts make it a nice addition to shade gardens. In the autumn, the leaves turn a nice burgundy color as well.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Cornus canadensis

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states. See the above section on Status.

Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely leaves and flowers as well as its useful properties.

If you are harvesting Cornus canadensis from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, leaves, or plants that you see from a healthy population.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits, leaves, or roots can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

Bunchberry berries can be eaten fresh or cooked upon picking. If using it medicinally, it can be dried for later use.

To dry the leaves or fruits, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt and then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

Once dried, the leaves, fruits, and roots can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference.

Do not grind or crush the leaves or roots until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora.org on Cornus canadensis http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=242443972

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

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Vinca major & V. minor - Invasive Species of North America

Vinca major growing in a forest in Hampton, Virginia, USA. Lyrae Willis photo.
Vinca major growing in a forest in Hampton, Virginia, USA. Lyrae Willis photo.

Introduction

Common Periwinkle Vinca minor and Bigleaf Periwinkle Vinca major are very popular garden ornamentals widely sold in nurseries and online stores throughout North America. They are part of the Apocynaceae family in the Gentianales order of dicots. They produce attractive foliage, lovely blue, lavender, or sometimes pink or white flowers, and they require little maintenance. Of course, other than trying to control them to keep them from spreading into your garden beds, lawns, forest, or other areas, they were not intended to grow. In some areas, these plants are not very invasive, but in other areas, they are quite invasive.

Since they spread only vegetatively, the primary source of invasion is through deliberate human introductions as a garden ornamental that they plant and forget about and allow them to escape. We have so many lovely native groundcovers, just do some research into native groundcovers in your region and plant those instead. Native species require no maintenance, they tend not to be invasive, and they offer added wildlife and biodiversity values that invasive species lack altogether.

Description of Vinca major & Vinca minor

Leaves & Stems of Vinca major & Vinca minor

Both species of Periwinkles are scrambling vines from stolons up to 1 m long from fibrous roots 3 – 8 cm long. Their vertical stems grow up to 30 cm tall and are semi-succulent but become semi-woody at the base (caudex).

The leaves of Vinca major Bigleaf Periwinkle are opposite, semi-evergreen, heart-shaped (cordate) to triangular in shape, and are covered with a waxy coating (cuticle) and tiny hairs. They are 4 – 8 cm long and 2 – 5 cm wide. Sometimes, they have a finely hairy (ciliate) margin; otherwise, they are entire.

The leaves of Vinca minor Common Periwinkle differ from Vinca major in that they are evergreen, glabrous (hairless), more leathery, narrowly elliptic in shape, and are only 2 – 4.5 cm long by 1 – 2.5 cm wide with an entire margin that is not ciliate.

Flowers of Vinca major & Vinca minor

The flowers of both Periwinkle species are violet to blue and each has 5 petals radiating in pinwheel-like angles from the floral tube (they are partially connate).

The edges of the petals are typically slightly fringed and occasionally the petals are even white or pink.

Bigleaf Periwinkle Vinca major has somewhat larger flowers than the Common Periwinkle, but otherwise, they appear very similar.

Fruits of Vinca major & Vinca minor

The fruits of Periwinkles are pairs of slender cylindrical follicles to 5 cm long in Vinca major or 2.5 cm long in Vinca minor.

When the follicles dry, they split open to release 3-5 naked seeds that have no tufts (coma), unlike many seeds released from follicles.

Toxicity of Vinca major & Vinca minor

All parts of the plants are considered poisonous due to the presence of toxic alkaloids, which can attach themselves to the microtubules of the cells and impair their ability to divide, causing cell death.

Periwinkles have been known to poison humans, pets, and livestock. Most wild animals seem to know better than to ingest it; even if it is the only forage material around, most still will not eat it.

Similar Species Vinca major & Vinca minor are Frequently Confused With

There are only two species of Vinca that have been introduced to North America so far. However, there are a few other genera native and introduced that can occasionally be confused for Vinca. They can be differentiated as follows:

  • Catharanthus roseus – Madagascar Periwinkle appears superficially similar, but it is an upright shrub that does not have a scrambling habit. Also, its leaves are oval to oblong and 2.5-9 cm long, and they are hairless and arranged in opposite pairs. The flowers are larger, up to 5 cm in diameter, with a very long floral tube. The petals are not at right angles to the tube but may still appear somewhat pinwheel-like in shape. The corolla is also typically various shades of pink or white rather than lavender or blue. It is endemic to Africa but has been widely introduced throughout the southern half of the USA and throughout Mexico.
  • Phlox divaricata – native to the eastern USA and Canada, this plant has strikingly similar flowers in the same color and sometimes with a somewhat pinwheel shape to the petals. However, it is not a vine but rather an upright herb 25-50 cm tall. The leaves are opposite but are lanceolate and lack a leaf stalk (petiole).
  • Euonymus fortunei – the Fortune Spindle is an evergreen vine occasionally mistaken for Periwinkles. They are native to Asia but are widespread in the USA and Mexico. However, the individual vines grow much longer, to 20 m, and their ovate evergreen leaves are much larger than the Common Periwinkle and are not cordate or triangular like Bigleaf Periwinkle. When in flower, they are hard to mistake for Periwinkle because their flowers are much smaller and are white or greenish-white.
  • Hedera helix – Eurasian Ivy is occasionally mistaken for Vinca major. However, its vines grow much, much longer than Vinca major, and its leaves are alternate rather than opposite, and they are typically larger, though occasionally they can have similar shapes. Their flowers are also much different, being numerous tiny greenish-white flowers in an umbel.

Native Distribution of Vinca major & Vinca minor

Vinca major is native to the Mediterranean region of Europe and the Middle East from Spain east to Turkey plus northern Africa.

Vinca minor is native to central and southern Europe from Portugal, France, Holland, and the Baltics, plus eastern Caucasus and Turkey.

Habitat Types Where Periwinkles Are Found

In its native environment, Periwinkles are usually associated with moist, fertile, or moderate soils that are moderately acidic to moderately alkaline.

In North America, it is found in those soil types but has also been found in moderately well-drained soil types, poor soils, and even acidic clays. They grow from sea level up to 2300 m in elevation.

Periwinkles are both found in riparian forests, open forests, grasslands, scrub, and roadsides.

Vinca minor is often found in the understory of successional forests, including mature forest types, while Vinca major is more often found in partially shaded open forests and riparian forests.

Both species can grow in full shade, part shade, and even full sun, provided the soil is moist. In arid climates, both Periwinkles are more restricted to riparian forest understory.

Human Uses of Periwinkles

Periwinkle has been long been used as a ground cover plant as a garden ornamental where it forms dense mats. It has also been used for short hedges and for filling around the bases of trees. Though it rarely remains contained to its original purpose.

The dried leaves, aerial parts, and sometimes the whole dried plant are used to extract medicines that are used to treat a number of different cancers as well as to improve blood circulation, brain function, and cardiovascular disorders.

Vinpocetine is a synthetic nootropic (brain-enhancing) drug derived from vincamine, an alkaloid responsible for much of the medicinal activity of the genus. However, unsupervised medicinal use is not recommended due to the toxicity of the plant, which can make you very ill, cause miscarriages, and possibly even death if consumed in sufficient quantities.

Distribution of Vinca major, Vinca minor in North America

Periwinkles were first brought to North America in the 1700s. It was documented in a review of flora as early as the late 1700s, showing that it was already well established in the eastern USA by then.

In Canada, Vinca major has been recorded in British Columbia. Vinca minor has been recorded in British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and possibly Newfoundland (excluding Labrador).

In the USA, Vinca major is found in Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Louisiana, Arkansas, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York, and Massachusetts.

In the USA, Vina minor is found throughout the entire eastern USA and most of the southern USA. The only states it has not been reported in yet in the continental USA are Idaho, California, Nevada, Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, North & South Dakota, and Oklahoma.

In Mexico, Vinca major so far has been reported in Baja California Norte, Sonora, Sinaloa, Durango, Nayarit, Jalisco, Colima, Michoacan, Oaxaca, Chihuahua, Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, Mexico State, Mexico City, Puebla, Morelos, Veracruz, and Chiapas.

In Mexico, Vinca minor has not yet been reported, but it is located on the northern border of the US in Tucson, Arizona, and San Diego, California, so it will likely be recorded there soon.

Periwinkle, particularly Vinca major, has been introduced on every continent except Antarctica.

How Periwinkles Spread

It is primarily spread through long-distance by deliberate human introductions as a garden ornamental. Despite its invasive status, this is still the primary cause of long-distance spread.

Short-distance dispersal is primarily through vegetative means. Both species spread readily through their stolons which can quickly grow 25 cm or more before producing another rooted node yielding another clone.

Short-distance dispersal also routinely occurs by fragments regenerating out of dumped yard waste. In its native range, ants sometimes spread the seeds, but in North America spreading by seeds appears to be negligible to nonexistent.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Riparian forests and canyon bottomlands are most at risk throughout all of North America due to their preference for moist soil types.

States and provinces located next to the coasts are also at high risk due to the presence of moist soils in those areas. In those regions, all land types are at risk, closed forests, open forests, roadsides, waste areas, grasslands, shrublands, and riparian areas as well.

The habitats not at risk of invasion are open deserts and high mountainous areas above 2300 m elevation. Fortunately, due to its inability to spread by seed, this restricts its spread to vegetative spread as long as people stop deliberately planting it in their gardens.

Impacts of Invasion

Both Vinca major and Vinca minor can grow in poor soils and full shade, and both are also allelopathic, giving them a significant competitive advantage.

Allelopathic plants inhibit the germination and growth of plants of other species growing in their vicinity due to how they alter the soil conditions. As a result, both species tend to form dense mats that smother native understory species as well as prevent the germination of new trees and shrubs.

Reductions in species richness, however, varied from location to location. This has resulted in Periwinkle being viewed as a ‘limited invasive’ species that is ‘stable’. This may partly be due to its spread being limited to vegetative growth.

However, I have seen firsthand its invasive nature in coastal British Columbia, Canada, as well as Virginia and Georgia in the eastern US, where it does indeed create monocultures of dense mats that exclude all other vegetation.

In riparian corridors, its ability to reduce native vegetation reduces the available forage for both wild and domestic grazers. This is particularly problematic where it occurs in riparian habitats found in otherwise arid landscapes.

In California, Vinca major is an important year-round host to the bacteria causing Pierce’s disease, which is a serious threat to the vineyards located there.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Vinca minor and Vinca major provide no wildlife values in North America, and due to their toxicity and tendency to form monocultures, there are no potential benefits of their presence here.

Methods to Remove Vinca major & Vinca minor

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control.

It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Periwinkle, and do not plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Do some research into native ground covers for your area. You will be pleasantly surprised by the number of low to no-maintenance, non-invasive native species that will grow in your area.

Physical Control of Vinca major & Vinca minor

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming, but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

Fortunately, Periwinkle seed production and spread are not an issue, so they can be physically removed at any time of year. Removal is easiest, however, when the soil is moist, as the roots cling less tightly, allowing the plants to be pulled more readily. This means that spring and fall are often the best times, but it depends on your location.

Physical methods to remove Periwinkle generally involve raking up the stolons and then pulling the plants out using hand tools.

When dealing with large infestations, rake it first as this pulls the stolons up, then the mowing macerates the vines. Given their ability to regenerate by fragmentation, this requires repeated treatments throughout the entire growing season and is only recommended for large infestations where hand removal is not feasible.

For smaller infestations raking followed by pulling plants is often sufficient, though, like all control methods, this too will have to be repeated.

Try to pull as many of the roots as possible, but you will not get them all. The starchy roots of the Periwinkles allow them to regenerate following any method of control. As a result, ongoing monitoring is essential.

Solarizing Small Patches

Sometimes a small patch could be solarized by covering it with heavy black tarps and leaving it there in the sun for 4-6 months. This is the least labor-intensive method of control. The area should still be monitored over the next couple of years to be sure that none regenerate. Any that are found can simply be pulled by hand.

Disposal of the Plants Once Removed

Due to their ability to regenerate from fragments, all plants removed should be either burned or solarized. Burning is an easy and efficient way to get rid of plants, but if burning is not allowed in your area, then they should be polarized.

To solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for at least 8 weeks to be sure that none of the vines are viable anymore.

Chemical Control of Periwinkle

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species.

Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Periwinkle. And the starchy roots appear able to regenerate the plants not long after chemical control methods are used so additional control methods will still be required.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Periwinkle

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day, there are still rats in Hawaii, but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach.

In the case of Periwinkles, no biological control methods are currently being used. Most animals will not even graze on the plant. Due to its toxicity, it is not even recommended to use goats that eat anything, as it could potentially make them very ill.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form, this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In all cases of removal, the site should be replanted immediately because the bare soil will allow the Periwinkle or other potential invaders to claim the empty space left behind. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon the removal of the Periwinkle. In most cases, these will be native understory plants, such as ferns, small shrubs, native vines, etc, that would have grown there before the Vinca species invaded. Find a local nursery that specializes in native species or ethically wildcraft your own from the local environment.

The only instances where replanting is not required are small isolated individuals that have not yet had a chance to form a clonal colony. In this case, simply remove the plant(s) and monitor them to make sure they do not return. Nearby native species should be able to rapidly recolonize the space they were removed from.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Periwinkle removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not.

If yearly monitoring is not put in place to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established, then all your hard work done in the removal process will be wasted if the patch is allowed to regrow.

References and Resources

CABI on Vinca major https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/56402

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/sea rch

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Fire Effects Information System on Periwinkle https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/vine/vinspp/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Funastrum clausum White Twinevine - Native to North America

Funastrum clausum White Twine Vine native to southern North America
Funastrum clausum White Twine Vine native to southern North America

White Twinevine Funastrum clausum – Native Plant of North America

Introduction

Funastrum clausum is sometimes classified under the name Sarcostemma clausum and goes by the common name of White Twinevine or Bejuco Revientachivo in Spanish. It is part of the Asclepiadaceae or Milkweed family, and like many members of this family, it exudes a milky latex. (Recently, the entire Milkweed family has been lumped into the Apocynaceae family, but I prefer to use the subfamily split of morphologically similar groups that help aid in identification). This is a beautiful but aggressive vine with lovely fragrant white flowers that are quite unique to the Milkweed family. If you live in an area where it is native, I encourage you to grow it in your yard. But if you live in the south and it is not native to your area, I do not advise planting it because of its aggressive nature. It could potentially become invasive.

Description of White Twinevine Funastrum clausum

Stem & Leaves

Funastrum clausum is a herbaceous perennial climbing vine that exudes milky latex. It grows from about 6-9 m long and climbs utilizing twining tendrils. The vines can become very aggressive, growing over trees, plants, and structures in their path.

The leaves are either attached directly to the stem (sessile) or have leaf stalks (petioles), and they are arranged oppositely on the stem. They are dark to medium green in color and are linear to oblong in shape, often with an acute to obtuse base. Leaves may be moderately to very pubescent and are somewhat succulent.

Funastrum clausum Flowers

The lovely fragrant flowers appear from spring till fall but can flower all year round. Flowers are borne in large umbels along the length of the stem. They have 5 pubescent white petals and they usually have a purple base that forms a conspicuous ring around the center of the flower. Sometimes the reddish-purple base is lacking, however.

As with all members of the Asclepiadaceae, the flowers have modified stamens that are formed into white globular lobes and united at the base into a ring-like structure. This makes identification of the genus quite easy as these are characteristic of the Funastrum genus.

Funastrum clausum Fruit

Its fruit is a follicle that is large, wide, and erect. When the follicle is ripe and dries, it splits open to release the seeds. Seeds are attached to a silky white pappus that is dispersed by wind.

The fruit is a follicle, here is an unripe fruit of Funastrum clausum
The fruit is a follicle. Here is an unripe fruit of Funastrum clausum.
Here is an ripened and opened fruit of Funastrum clausum showing seeds with their long white pappus
Here is a ripened and opened fruit of Funastrum clausum showing seeds with their long white pappus.

Similar Species Funastrum clausum is Frequently Confused With

Funastrum clausum is generally not confused with other genera due to its unique flowers. However, it can be confused with other members of the same genus whose range overlaps. They can be differentiated as follows:

  • Funastrum pannosum – this one is endemic to Mexico and shares a similar range. Its flower petals are more delicate in appearance, and the flower lacks the red ring around the center commonly found in Funastrum clausum.
  • Funastrum cynanchoides – this one is found in the southern US and northeast Mexico only. It also lacks the red ring around the ring-like stamen structure that is often found in Funastrum clausum, and it has leaves with a cordate base instead of acute or obtuse. It also has red tinges on the edges of the petals lacking in Funastrum clausum.
  • Funastrum heterophyllum is found in the southwestern US and throughout much of Mexico. It usually has reddish-purple petals instead of white, and its leaves are long and thin with a truncated base rather than acute or obtuse.

Distribution of White Twinevine Funastrum clausum

White Twinevine is found in the most southeastern corner of Texas, and it is also found in Florida. It is not found anywhere else in the USA, and it is not found in Canada.

In Mexico Bejuco Revientachivo is found in Baja California Sur, Sonora, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Jalisco, Colima, Michoacan, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Chiapas, Chihuahua, Durango, Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, San Luis Potosi, Puebla, Morelos, Veracruz, Campeche, Yucatan and Quintana Roo.

Funastrum clausum is also found throughout the Caribbean and in Central and South America as far south as northern Argentina.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of White Twinevine

Funastrum clausum grows in mildly acidic to alkaline soils.

Its water requirements are in the moist to mesic range. It requires some moisture but does not tolerate permanent flooding or arid soils, nor does it tolerate salt spray or brackish waters.

It is often found growing along swamps, rivers, riparian habitats, and moist woodlands throughout its native range.

White Twinevine grows in full sun to part shade.

It will not tolerate any freezing temperatures.

Growing White Twinevine in Your Garden

Funastrum clausum is best grown against a fence, arbor, or trellis of some kind.

Due to its aggressive nature, it can be difficult to control if the conditions are right for it. Do not grow it if it is not native to your area.

However, if it is native, it is a beautiful plant with fragrant flowers and provides important wildlife value.

Choose a location where it has support to climb on and will not be able to climb onto your other nearby vegetation. Vines can easily be cut to keep them under control if necessary.

Propagation is done by seeds collected from the flowers once ripe. Allow the seeds to fully dry before planting.

Propagation can also be readily done from herbaceous stem cuttings.

Wildlife Values of Funastrum clausum

White twinevine is a larval host plant for the Monarch, Queen, and Soldier butterflies. All of their caterpillars have adapted to feed on the plant and are not harmed by the toxic milky latex.

Native bees and wasps use the flowers as an important nectar source.

Status of Funastrum clausum

Bejuco Revientachivo is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In the USA, Funastrum clausum has not been ranked, as is the case with so many native species in the USA, even though it is only found in 2 states.

No information on its status could be found in Mexico, and it is not found in Canada.

Traditional or Other Uses of White Twinevine

Funastrum clausum Medicinal Uses

The milky latex of White twinevine is sometimes used to cure eye infections. In Jamaica, the plant was used as a remedy for colds.

In Costa Rica and Guatemala, the crushed leaves are used as a poultice to treat flesh-burrowing maggots of the Human Botfly.

White Twinevine as an Ornamental

This is a very easy plant to grow to the point it can become aggressive, and as such, it is at times popular as an ornamental. Once established, it requires no care other than occasional pruning to keep it under control.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Funastrum clausum

If you are harvesting Funastrum clausum from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, follicles, or leaves you see.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits, leaves, flowers, or roots can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

To dry the leaves, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry.

Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt and then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

If you are wanting to dry the fruits, they will need to be cut into smaller pieces before drying to prevent rotting. Otherwise, they could also be dried more quickly in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting.

Once dried, the plant parts can be stored in a jar for later use.

Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference.

Do not grind or crush the leaves or roots until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

When harvesting for propagation purposes, pick 1 in every 20 follicles you see. Make sure they are ripe when you pick them, and place them in a paper bag until they dry and split open. Once dried, the seeds are ready to plant. If using cuttings, simply cut from 1 in 20 vines you see. Keep the vines moist in a plastic bag with water or wrapped in a wet tea towel. Keep them cool until you get them home, at which time you can root them in water by immersing a node. Rooting hormones can also be used to encourage root production, although they should readily sprout roots from a node immersed in water without the use of hormones.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Backyard Nature Newsletter https://www.backyardnature.net/yucatan/clausum.htm

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Ricinus communis Castor Plant - Invasive in North America

Ricinus communis the Castor Bean Plant - an aggressive invasive species in North America, particularly in Mexico and the southern USA.
Ricinus communis the Castor Bean Plant – an aggressive invasive species in North America, particularly in Mexico and the southern USA.

Introduction

Castor Bean, or Castor Oil Plant, Ricinus communis, is a member of the monotypic genus Ricinus of the Euphorbiaceae family. It is an aggressive invasive perennial around the world, and the subtropical and tropical Americas are no exception. Castor Bean is an extremely widespread weed throughout Mexico and is also quite common throughout the southern USA. It also grows into the temperate northeastern corner of the USA, showing that it is more than capable of one day invading the Pacific Northwest and southern Canada, even though so far, it has not been reported there. The seeds of the Castor Oil plant are extremely toxic, so much so that the ingestion of even 3 or 4 seeds can cause severe gastrointestinal distress and, in some cases, even death.

Description of Ricinus communis

Ricinus communis Leaves & Stems

Castor Oil Plant grows from 1 – 5 m tall from a large taproot with several lateral roots.

It is a somewhat woody perennial shrub in tropical and subtropical climates but can behave as a herbaceous annual in temperate climates. It has a large woody hollow stem that is often purplish and covered with white powdery wax, along with the petioles and often the leaves. The stems and branches have conspicuous nodes and ring-like scars.

Leaves are arranged alternately on the stems, and at their bases are stipules 1 – 3 cm long that unite into a sheathing bud. The round leaf stalks (petioles) are 3 – 50 cm long and support very large palmate leaves with 5 – 9 lobes that are united at the bottom, with the petiole being placed just off-center (peltate) on the backside of the leaf. Leaf blades are irregularly toothed (serrated) and are very large, from 10 – 70 cm across.

Ricinus communis Flowers & Fruits

The female flowers of Ricinus communis appear in red on the top of the panicle, you can see some of the male flowers in creamy white at the base of the panicle.
The female flowers of Ricinus communis appear in red on the top of the panicle, and you can see some of the male flowers in creamy white at the base of the panicle.
The spiky fruit of the invasive Castor Bean Ricinus communis. It is green when it is young but turns brown when it matures and explosively dehisces its lethally toxic seeds.
The spiky fruit of the invasive Castor Bean Ricinus communis. It is green when it is young but turns brown when it matures and explosively dehisces its lethally toxic seeds.

It is a monoecious plant with separate male and female flowers on the same plant.

Flowers appear in erect terminal panicles up to 40 cm long. The male flowers are located on the base of the panicle, with the female flowers located at the top of the panicle. The male flowers lack petals and sepals and are made of clusters of many stamens in branched bundles.

The female flowers lack petals but possess sepals, but they fall off early (caducous). They have a superior soft spiny ovary with 3 styles that are red or green and are 2 cleft (divided).

Fruits are ellipsoid or sub-globose and 15 – 25 mm long. They are green when young and turn brown when mature. They are usually covered in conspicuous spines but occasionally are smooth.

The fruits hold ellipsoid seeds 9 – 17 mm long that are brittle and mottled brown with a caruncle located at the base. The seeds are extremely toxic and can be lethal, even if ingested in small quantities.

Ricinus communis Toxicity

The seeds of Ricinus communis are extremely toxic. They are one of the most potent natural biological toxins known to man. This is due to the presence of an albumin called ricin. The ingestion of just a few seeds can cause severe gastroenteritis, dehydration, liver or kidney damage, and even death.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

There are no other species in the Ricinus genus, but there are several unrelated plants that, at first glance, are often confused with Ricinus communis. However, as none are related, they can easily be differentiated by their flowers and fruits but also as follows:

  • Kalopanax septemlobus is a member of the Araliaceae family. While it is native to Asia, it has been introduced to the northeastern USA. It has similar-looking leaves but its stems are covered with very long spines, and the plant reaches heights of 30 m. Its flowers have 4 or 5 petals, and they grow in umbels.
  • Tetrapanax papyrifer is native to Taiwan but has been introduced along the east and west coasts of North America and central Mexico. It grows to similar heights and has large palmate leaves, but its palmate leaves’ lobes are also divided, unlike Ricinus communis. Its flowers are produced in large umbels at the top of the plant, and the flowers have 4 or 5 petals.
  • Carica papaya Papaya is native to Mesoamerica but has been widely introduced into northern Mexico and the southern USA for its edible fruit. When not in fruit, it can be differentiated by its more succulent than woody and usually unbranched stem. Its large palmate leaves are also clustered near the top of the plant, and the base is deeply cordate, not united with a peltate attachment as in Castor.
  • Fatsia japonica Japanese Aralia has been introduced along the east and west coasts of North America and possibly into Mexico. It grows to similar heights with palmate leaves, but its bases are not united and do not have a peltate attachment to its petioles. They produce umbels of bisexual flowers that possess both petals and sepals.
  • Cnidoscolus aconitifolius or Mala Mujer (Bad Woman) is native to Mesoamerica but has also been introduced into northern Mexico, Florida, and sporadically throughout the southern USA. It can be distinguished by its large palmate leaves that only have 3-5 lobes. It is also monecious, but its flowers are small and white.
  • Jatropha gossypifolia is native from Mexico to South America but has been introduced to the southern USA. It is a smaller plant with smaller leaves 7-15 cm wide with a cordate base. It also produces flowers with purple to reddish petals.
  • Manihot esculenta Cassava is native to South America but has been widely introduced throughout the sub and tropical Americas as a food plant. It usually grows to only 2 m, and its palmate leaves have only 3-5 lobes that usually have smooth edges or minutely toothed at most. Its fruit is a six-angled globose capsule.

Native Distribution of Ricinus communis

The castor plant is native to northeastern Africa but has naturalized throughout Africa, some of which may have been naturally spread, and others were aided by humans as far back as the stone age.

Habitat Types Where Ricinus communis is Found

In its native environment, Ricinus communis grows naturally in any disturbed habitat. It has a wide ecological tolerance allowing it to adapt to a multitude of conditions.

Castor Bean tolerates a wide range of soil conditions from acidic to alkaline, heavy to light, including infertile soils and shallow soils.

Its moisture requirements are moderate, and it can easily tolerate extended drought and even some inundation as long as the soil drains readily and is not submerged for extended periods of time.

Ricinus communis also tolerates a wide range of temperatures. It will survive -15 C in the winter and tolerates temperatures of 35 C in the summer.

Human Uses of Castor Bean or Castor Oil Plant

Ricinus communis has a long history of use by people. It has been cultivated for its oil for at least 6000 years, with the earliest recorded use in ancient Egypt.

The plant is used as an ornamental and botanical curiosity due to its enormous size. The oil was used both medicinally and for illumination before the use of other fuels, candles, and electricity became widespread.

Medicinally, Castor Oil is used as a purge internally as well as a cure-all in smaller doses for numerous internal ailments. Externally it is used for a variety of sores and skin conditions.

Castor Oil is also used in cosmetics, soap making, foods, as a lubricant, in paints, plastic, and linoleum. The press cake is poisonous and cannot be fed to animals, but it is often used as a fertilizer or fuel.

Distribution of Ricinus communis in North America

The species was first brought to North America in the 1700s. By 1760 it was documented as naturalized in Florida.

In Canada, Ricinus communis has not yet been recorded.

In the USA, Castor Bean has been recorded throughout many southern states, including California, Arizona, Utah, Kansas, Texas, Missouri, Louisiana, Alabama, Mississippi, Georgia, Florida, and North and South Carolina. It is also found in the northeastern states of Illinois, Michigan, Ohio, Virginia, Delaware, Maryland, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire. It is also found in Hawaii.

In Mexico, Ricinus communis has been reported in every state. It is particularly abundant on the east and west coasts and in south-central Mexico. It is less common in the northern desert states but has still been reported in those locations.

Castor Bean has been introduced on every continent except Antarctica and is even widespread throughout the Pacific Islands. It is a global problem.

How Castor Bean Spreads

It is primarily spread through long distances by deliberate human introductions as an ornamental or for its industrial uses.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through the explosive release of mature seeds from the fruits.

Humans also aid in short-distance dispersal by spreading seeds in garden waste, soils, and vehicles.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Due to its wide range of ecological tolerances, many habitats are at risk of invasion, particularly any habitat with disturbance. This means that anywhere humans develop, the land is at risk of invasion.

In addition to developed areas, it also invades grasslands, heathlands, riparian communities, and farmland. It is also commonly found on roadsides and in waste areas.

It is often a primary invader of recently burned lands.

In Spain, it has even invaded sand dunes, whereas it was previously thought unable to survive in permanently arid areas.

The only habitats not thought to currently be at risk are permanent wetlands, dense old-growth forests, and alpine habitats.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Since Ricinus communis is extremely toxic, it provides no real wildlife value.

It also reduces biodiversity where it invades.

There are no known benefits of its invasion other than the occasional native bee that may visit its flowers.

Methods to Remove Ricinus communis

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in some local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any, and do not plant them in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Physical Control of Castor Bean

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming, but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

The best time to remove Ricinus communis is while the plants are still small enough to pull out by hand. Due to the plant’s toxicity, gloves should be worn even when the plant is young. Pulling young plants when the soil is moist, and the roots cling less tightly to the soil is ideal. Sometimes even medium-sized plants can be pulled by hand from moist soil.

If the soil is dry or the plants are larger, weed pullers can be useful in removing more stubborn plants. Try to get as much of the root and crown as possible to help prevent resprouting. This is especially important when the soil is dry, as the root system will often break rather than give to the pulling.

With larger plants or colonies, you will need to cut the above-ground growth down, then dig out the individual crowns or cultivate the soil repeatedly with a machine for large colonies. This will help prevent any regeneration.

Burning is not recommended as a means of control as Castor Bean is a quick regenerator on burned sites, and burning may encourage rather than discourage its growth.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

If you have plants that have seeds on them, they must either be burned or solarized. Solarizing is usually best with Ricinus communis.

However, sometimes with large patches burning is more efficient for disposing of large amounts of plant matter rather than solarizing. If burning, be aware of their ability to regenerate rapidly from seed after a fire. If the fire does not attain sufficient heat, there will be a surge in seedlings not long after the fire. The area will need ongoing monitoring to deal with seedlings as they emerge.

Otherwise, to solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags. Then leave them in the full sun for a good 8 – 10 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. Many sources recommend shorter solarization periods. However, success depends on latitude, sun exposure, daytime high temperatures, and other factors that make shorter time periods prone to failure. Leaving invasive species to solarize as long as possible is always the best. Then they can be disposed of in a landfill, but be sure to inform them of their invasive status so they can be dealt with accordingly.

Chemical Control of Castor Oil Plant

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Ricinus communis.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Ricinus communis

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also usually not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii, but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach.

Because Ricinus communis is cultivated as a crop, no biological control methods are being developed for it. It is, however, prone to several pests and diseases, including mung moth, pink bollworm, seedling blight, rust spot, leaf spot, gray mold, stem canker, leaf blight, and bacterial wilt. However, these all affect other crops as well, so none are being developed to control Castor Bean.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form, this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings. Otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In many cases of removal, the site will need to be replanted immediately. This is because the bare soil will allow the seed bank to germinate and reinvade the patch they were removed from. Removal of single isolated individuals does not require replanting but the removal of a patch will. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon the removal of the Castor Bean.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Ricinus communis removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not.

If seedlings are allowed to emerge unchecked, the invasive Castor Bean will simply re-invade and take over before the native species are able to grow back in their place. Removal of young plants by physical means is always the easiest and most effective means of control.

References and Resources

CABI on Ricinus communis https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/47618

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Geranium maculatum Wild Geranium - Native to North America

Geranium maculatum Wild Geranium or Wild Cranesbill - Native Species of North America
Geranium maculatum Wild Geranium or Wild Cranesbill – Native Species of North America

Wild Geranium Geranium maculatum – Native Plant of North America

The gorgeous Geranium maculatum Wild Geranium of the Geraniaceae family is part of the Geraniales Order of flowering dicots. This is an absolutely gorgeous native wildflower. I don’t know why anyone grows invasive species in their yards when we have so many gorgeous native flowers like Wild Geranium. If you live anywhere in eastern North America, I highly recommend this beautiful flower for your yard. It has large pink geranium flowers. Once established, it requires no maintenance, and even though it spreads vegetatively by rhizome, it is never invasive. The bees and other wildlife will also be grateful if you plant them in your yard.

Description of Wild Geranium, Wild Cranesbill Geranium maculatum

Geranium maculatum Stem & Leaves

Geranium maculatum plant w flowers from Allatoona Creek, GA, USA
Geranium maculatum plant w flowers from Allatoona Creek, GA, USA

Herbaceous perennial 30 – 100 cm tall from thick spreading rhizomes that can get quite long and grow 5-10 cm thick. The rhizome allows it to spread vegetatively, though it is not an aggressive spreader, so it does not become invasive where it grows. Stems are green and hairy and arise from the base, and are generally not branched.

Leaves are deeply palmately 5 to 7-lobed and toothed in the top half of the lobes. Leaves are from 3-15 cm across in diameter. They are finely hairy on the upper surface and have more coarse hairs on the lower surface.

The basal leaves arise from long hairy petioles (leaf stalks) up to 30 cm long. Leaves arising from the flower stalk are on much shorter petioles.

Geranium maculatum Flowers

The showy pink to lavender or sometimes white flowers appear anywhere from March to July, depending on location, elevation, exposure, etc.

They appear in loose cymes or umbels of 2 – 3(-5) flowers on top of a stem with 2 palmately lobed leaves. Flowers are large for native geraniums, being 2.5 – 4 cm across with 5 free petals.

The flowers are bisexual with 10 stamens with yellow anthers that turn brown with age. These are clustered around the single pistil with 5 carpels. The style is a single whitish style that splits into 5 forks at the terminal end.

Geranium maculatum Fruits

Its fruit matures about 1 month after blooming is complete. It is a typical geranium fruit, a long, thin erect schizocarp with 5 mericarps. The entire fruit is about 2.5 cm long. It has a characteristic long beak-like structure (giving it the common name of Cranesbill) surrounded by 5 elongated columnar mericarps. The mericarps start to peel open along the seeds and elastically eject a single small, black seed from each of the 5 mericarps.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Geraniums have characteristic foliage and flowers that make them difficult to confuse with most other genera.

However, the following are a few non-related species that could, at first glance, be confused with Geranium maculatum.

  • Cardiac leonurus has, at first glance, geranium-like leaves, but the small burgundy flowers are located in the leaf axils. It is native to North America and Asia.
  • Anemonestrum canadense also has geranium-like leaves and is found in northeast North America, but its 3 whorled leaves are three-lobed. Its white flowers are found singly on top of a stem above and through the center of its whorled leaves and have numerous yellow stamens clustered in the center.
  • Podophyllum peltatum Mayapple has lobed leaves similar to geranium species, but they are much, much larger, and their single white flower appears below its large leaves, and it produces a large round fruit.
  • Hydrastis canadensis Goldenseal is found in northeast North America, but it is becoming increasingly rare. It, like Mayapple, has much larger lobed leaves, and its flower and fruit are found immediately on top of the large leaves. The flowers have showy white stamens that are often mistaken for deeply cut petals.

We have many native and introduced Geraniums throughout North America. Following is a list of species that grow in eastern North America that could be confused with Geranium maculatum.

  • Geranium bicknellii Bicknell’s Cranesbill has much smaller flowers, petals that are notched instead of whole, and more finely cut leaves with the teeth in the top half cut deeply into additional lobes. It is found throughout the northeast and Midwest but less so in the southeastern part of North America.
  • Geranium carolinianum Carolina Geranium is found throughout a very similar range, but it has a much more compact flower cluster with flowers that are a fair bit smaller. The petals are generally much lighter pink and are often bifid. Sepals are often of equal or even greater length than the petals.
  • Geranium robertianum Robert Geranium is found in east and western North America; it is native to Eurasia and northern Africa. It has smaller flowers, more deeply lobed leaves that are also usually a bit smaller, and it has conspicuous characteristic red to pinkish stems.
  • Geranium sylvaticum is an introduced species found sporadically in northeast North America. It has similar leaves, and its flowers are fairly large, 2 – 3 cm across, but they usually have white in the center of their petals, and the style is pink on the outside and white on the inside.
  • Geranium viscosissimum is generally a western species but is occasionally found in the east. It can be differentiated by the fact that its hairs are always sticky and resinous, and it has a solid pink style instead of whitish.
  • Geranium pratense Meadow Geranium is native to Eurasia but was introduced to eastern North America. It can be differentiated by its always bluish or purple flowers with purple anthers that occur in pairs.
  • Geranium sanguineum is also native to Eurasia but is commonly found in North America. It can be differentiated by its more finely divided leaves and its reddish-purple flowers with its obovate-notched petals that are only 1.5 – 2 cm across. Its fruits are also hairy.
  • Geranium macrorrhizum is native to the Alps but has been introduced in North America. It can be differentiated by its strongly exserted pink stamens and pink anthers that are much longer than Geranium maculatum.
  • Geranium lucidum is native to Europe but was introduced in North America. It can be differentiated by its much more rounded leaf lobes and much smaller flowers.

Distribution of Wild Geranium Geranium maculatum

Wild Cranesbill is an eastern North American species.

In Canada, Wild Geranium is found in Manitoba, Ontario, and Quebec.

In the USA, Wild Geranium is found in North & South Dakota, Kansas, Oklahoma, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Wisconsin, Illinois, Michigan, Indiana, Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, North & South Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Washington DC, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine.

It is not found in Mexico.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Geranium maculatum

Wild Geraniums are found in dry to moist woodlands, forest edges, thickets, and meadows. It is not an effective colonizer and, as such, prefers undisturbed locations. It will only rarely be found in disturbed sites.

They require a moderate amount of water, from moist to dry but never permanently wet or arid. The soil they prefer is rich in organic matter, common under the forest canopy, and on the mildly acidic side. However, they have been found growing in neutral to mildly alkaline soils.

They prefer partial shade but can be found in full sun or full shade. However, very few plants grown in full shade ever flower and instead reproduce vegetatively through spreading rhizomes.

Growing Wild Geranium in Your Garden

Make sure that the chosen location in your garden is similar to what it grows in its natural environment. If you have partially shaded woods or the edge of a forest or tree habitat, that would be ideal. Otherwise, grow in partial shade to full sun as long as the soil remains somewhat moist.

Be sure to amend the soil with lots of organic matter and check your soil pH to be sure it is on the acidic side.

Deadheading the flowers (removing dead blossoms) will extend the flowering period.

Plants can be cut back occasionally if they are spreading too far.

Rhizomes can be divided to make new plants to be planted elsewhere or share with your friends to encourage the spread of native species.

Propagation

Seeds should be collected approximately 1 month after the bloom period. Cut the seed heads directly into a paper bag where they should be left to dry, split open, and release their seeds. Seeds should then be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

The seeds may then be sown outdoors in late fall or early spring without any cold treatment. However, the germination rate does increase with cold treatments.

Seeds sown in a greenhouse may sometimes flower in the first year. Otherwise, plants flower in their second or third year.

Rhizome division in fall or early spring is the fastest method of propagation, resulting in the highest success rate and fastest bloom time. Rhizomes are branched and often at right angles, which makes division quite easy. Make sure when you plant it, the crown is at soil level and not below, or it may not flower.

Wildlife Values of Wild Geranium

Seeds attract Mourning Doves, Bobwhite Quail and White-tailed Deer all of which feed on the seeds. White-tailed deer also feed on the flowers and native bees routinely visit the flowers.

Status of Geranium maculatum

Wild Cranesbill is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In Canada, Wild Geranium is considered Locally Secure S5 in Ontario, Imperiled S2 in Quebec and Critically Imperiled S1 in Manitoba.

In the USA, Geranium maculatum is considered Locally Secure S5 in Iowa, Indiana, Kentucky, West Virginia, Virginia, North Carolina, New York, and New Jersey. Wild Geranium is considered Apparently Secure S4 in Delaware. It is considered Imperiled S2 in Kansas. It is considered Critically Imperiled S1 in South Dakota, Nebraska, and Louisiana. In North Dakota, it is considered Possibly Extirpated (locally extinct) SH. In all other states where it is found, its status is not yet determined.

Geranium maculatum is not found in Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses of Geranium maculatum

Geranium maculatum Medicinal Uses

Geranium maculatum was often used by native peoples for a range of ailments. A decoction of the whole plant was used as a wash for thrush in a child’s throat, to clean wounds, and to treat canker sores by the Cherokee. The Chippewa used it dried and powdered for mouth sores.

A decoction of the root was used to treat diarrhea by the Chippewa and Meskwaki, while the Iroquois used an infusion of the entire plant for diarrhea. The Chippewa also used the root as a powerful astringent.

The Iroquois used the root for itchy skin and dermatological problems. They also used it as an emetic, and laxative, for mouth sores and heart problems.

A poultice of the powdered or chewed root was used by Iroquois on a cut umbilical cord immediately after birth as well as for one that had not yet healed.

The Meskwaki and Ojibwa used the root for toothaches and sore gums. Meskwaki also used the root in a poultice for hemorrhoids and burns.

Wild Geranium as an Ornamental

Due to its large showy flowers, Wild Geranium is often used as an ornamental. It grows easily, requires little maintenance once established, and is non-invasive. Wild Geranium makes a great addition to borders, beds, and ground cover.

It can even be found readily in many nurseries and online stores, but note that these are cultivars of the wild type. If you live in eastern North America in particular, please use the wild type to encourage our native ecotypes to thrive in their natural environment as much as possible.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Geranium maculatum

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states. See the above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely leaves and flowers as well as its useful properties.

If you are harvesting Geranium maculatum from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, fruits, roots, or leaves you see.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits, leaves, flowers, or roots can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

To dry the leaves, flowers, or fruits, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry.

Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt and then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

Once dried, the leaves, fruits, flowers, and roots can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference.

Do not grind or crush the plant parts until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

Wildcrafting for Propagation

If you are harvesting seeds for propagation purposes, collect 1 in every 20 fruits you see, cutting them into a paper bag. Then allow them to dry and pop open, then separate the seeds and store them in a sealed container in the fridge. This will help preserve the seeds and increase their germination rate with cold treatment.

If you are harvesting rhizomes for propagation, carefully dig around the parent plant (1 in every 20 plants) and sever a rhizome from the plant, being careful to not disturb the entire plant as much as possible. Then be sure to fill in the hole that you had dug to harvest the rhizome. Bring your rhizome home and plant it as soon as possible in an ideal location (see Habitat & Growing Conditions and Growing Wild Geranium sections above). Do not allow the rhizome to dry out or get too warm in a hot vehicle on the way to its new home.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center on Geranium maculatum https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=gema

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!



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Heracleum mantegazzianum Giant Hogweed - Invasive Species of North America. Photo taken in West Sechelt, BC, Canada by Lyrae Willis
Heracleum mantegazzianum Giant Hogweed – Invasive Species of North America. Photo was taken in West Sechelt, BC, Canada by Lyrae Willis

Introduction

Heracleum mantegazzianum  Giant Hogweed is an invasive species in North America that is still in the early stages of expanding its range. I first encountered it when I grew up in West Sechelt, BC, Canada. It was about 30 years ago. I had no idea what it was at the time, but it just seemed out of place somehow. Not long after, I started getting interested in plants, and I looked into them and discovered that, yes, in fact, it was out of place in my environment. Fortunately for me, at the time, I had not yet touched the plant to experience the phototoxic effects. I did, many years later, accidentally touch a smaller one that was among many other plants. I quickly realized what it was and stepped back immediately, but it still left some permanent discoloration on my hand. That was just from a quick accidental touch. Many others have not been so fortunate, as it causes massive blisters, scarring, and even potential blindness. Keep your children away from it, as many have suffered from contact with it. Unfortunately, it looks very similar to a native species known as Cow Parsnip; see Similar Species Frequently Confused With below.

Description of Heracleum mantegazzianum

Heracleum mantegazzianum Leaves & Stems

Leaves of Heracleum mantegazzianum in spring, Carlson Creek, BC, Canada
Leaves of Heracleum mantegazzianum in spring, Carlson Creek, BC, Canada
Young stem of Heracleum mantegazzianum showing the purple blotches and erect hairs; from BC, Canada
Young stem of Heracleum mantegazzianum showing the purple blotches and erect hairs; from BC, Canada

Heracleum mantegazzianum is a huge monocarpic herbaceous perennial from a branched root system that goes 40-60 cm deep and 15 cm across. It reaches heights of 2-4(5) m with hollow stems 3-10 cm in diameter. The stems are covered in blister-like bumps with erect bristly hairs on them. The stems also usually have purplish splotches on them, helping to differentiate them from Cow Parsnip (see similar species below).

It has very large alternate leaves from a basal rosette. As it grows in height, the leaves get smaller up the stem. The lowermost leaves can reach up to 3 m long and 1.7 m wide when fully mature. Leaves are pinnately or ternately lobed, often deeply so, and are coarsely toothed. The above-ground growth dies back and returns after each winter until it flowers, and then it dies.

Heracleum mantegazzianum Flowers

Side view of inflorescence of Heracleum mantegazzianum showing the umbel structure & the purple blotches on the stem below; from Sechelt, BC, Canada
Side view of inflorescence of Heracleum mantegazzianum showing the umbel structure & the purple blotches on the stem below; from Sechelt, BC, Canada

Being monocarpic, Giant Hogweed flowers between 3-5 years of age before it sets seed and then dies. Its inflorescence is a terminal compound umbel 80(100) cm across made of 50-150 rays of bisexual flowers. Surrounding the large main umbel are up to 8 other smaller satellite umbels, which often grow taller than the main one. These satellite umbels may be all male flowers only or could be bisexual. The flowers themselves are on 10-20 mm long pedicels with white to pinkish petals up to 12 mm long each.

Heracleum mantegazzianum Fruit

Heracleum mantegazzianum fruits are flattened elliptical schizocarps 6-18 mm long and 4-10 mm wide. The fruits are narrowly winged and split into 2 mericarps, each with 3-5 elongated oil ducts.

Heracleum mantegazzianum Toxicity

Heracleum mantegazzianum is extremely phototoxic, particularly when in flower. Upon touching the plant, if then exposed to the sun, it can cause severe hives, blistering, and permanent discoloration of the skin. If the sap from the plant gets in the eyes, it can cause temporary or possibly even permanent blindness.

Similar Species Heracleum mantegazzianum is Confused With

There are a few other genera that Heracleum mantegazzianum can be confused with within North America:

  • Angelica atropurpurea is native to northeast North America, but it has almost entirely purple stems and grows to 1.8 m tall. Its inflorescence is much more rounded rather than flat-topped and only up to 20 cm wide. Its leaves are also much smaller, softer, and divided into 3 parts, each with its own petiole.
  • Daucus carota wild carrot is widely introduced in North America and appears similar superficially, but it also grows to much smaller sizes, has smaller flower heads, and smells like a carrot.
  • Poison Hemlock Conium maculatum is sometimes confused with Giant Hogweed. However, it has tripinnate leaves that look fern-like and are very soft to the touch. It also gives off a foul odor not found in Hogweed.
  • Pastinaca sativa Parsnip is occasionally confused with Giant Hogweed, but its flowers are yellow instead of white and its large leaves have long petioles, and the plant smells of parsnip.

There are also similar species in the same genus, which may be more difficult to tell apart. They can be differentiated as follows:

  • Heracleum maximum (Heracleum lanatum or Heracleum sphondylium subsp. montanum, there is some debate as to its proper taxonomy) is referred to as Cow Parsnip and is native to North America. While it does look strikingly similar, it grows to only 2 m but never to the 4 m that Giant Hogweed can reach. Its leaves, while still lobed, are not as deeply cut as Giant Hogweed, and it lacks the purplish spots on its stems that are commonly found on the latter. Its flower head produces much fewer rays, only 15-50 per umbel, and the main umbel is usually no more than 30 cm across. Furthermore, Giant Hogweed is found only in some states and provinces, while Cow Parsnip is widespread throughout most of North America.
  • Heracleum sphondylium German Hogweed has been sporadically introduced throughout the USA and southern Canada. It can be differentiated by its smaller size of 1.2 m tall and its pinnate leaves that are pinnately lobed rather than whole leaves that are deeply divided. The leaves are also not as sharply lobed as that of Giant Hogweed.

Native Distribution of Heracleum mantegazzianum

Heracleum mantegazzianum is native to the southern slopes of the Western Greater Caucasus of southern Russia and Georgia. It has spread much further in Russia and eastern Europe in the last century, and it is believed that at least some of this spread has been of natural origin.

Habitat Types Where Giant Hogweed is Found

In its native environment, Giant Hogweed occupies a wide range of habitats from 50-2000 m in elevation with between 1000-2000 mm of annual rainfall. It thrives in temperate continental climates with hot summers and cold winters. There it is typically found in meadows, forest edges, and clearings.

In areas where it is introduced, it also occupies a wide range of habitats and is often found growing along roadsides, train tracks, rivers, riparian areas, grasslands, meadows, and waste sites.

It grows in a wide range of soil types from heavy to light, seasonally waterlogged to well-drained, and alkaline to neutral, but less often in acidic soils. It does not tolerate wet soils that experience long periods of inundation.

Heracleum mantegazzianum is normally reported in full sun to part shade conditions in North America. However, it has also been found to grow in full shade in some areas.

Human Uses of Heracleum mantegazzianum

The seeds of Heracleum mantegazzianum are used in some Middle Eastern cooking as a spice known as golpar. In its native habitat, beekeepers use the plants for honey production. There were also some reports of people eating the cooked stems, though this is not recommended due to the phototoxicity.

Distribution of Heracleum mantegazzianum in North America

The species was first recorded in New York, USA, in 1917 and had made its way to western North America by the 1930s. It was likely brought as a garden curiosity due to its impressive size. Alternatively, it could have been brought through spice importation since its seeds are sometimes used in Middle Eastern cuisine.

In Canada, Heracleum mantegazzianum has been recorded in British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland (excluding Labrador).

In the USA, Giant Hogweed is found in Washington and Oregon in the west and in Illinois, Michigan, Pennsylvania, North Carolina, New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Maine in the eastern States.

So far, in Mexico, Heracleum mantegazzianum has not yet been reported.

Globally Giant Hogweed is also considered an invasive species in much of Europe and New Zealand, and it appears to have recently been introduced to South America.

How Giant Hogweed Spreads

Heracleum mantegazzianum is primarily spread over long-distance by deliberate human introductions as an ornamental as well the importation of the seeds as a condiment. Sometimes the seeds are also found as a contaminant in the international food trade. Its preference for riparian habitats also has enabled its spread by long distances via seeds floating down rivers.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through water, high winds, animals, and sometimes birds. Dispersal can also occur through humans transporting soil and on vehicles or clothing.

Most seeds in the field germinate the following year, but the seeds can remain viable in the soil bank for up to 7 years.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Heracleum mantegazzianum spreads mostly through water, humans, and animals and frequently is reported along roadsides as well as riparian areas where it spreads by the movement of water. In multiple locations in North America, where it has spread via waterways along the banks, it has since moved into the adjacent woodlands, grasslands, and fields. Due to its tolerance to a wide range of elevations (50-2000 m), soil types, and sun, most habitats are at risk of invasion.

However, it will not grow in permanently wet soils or arid climates without access to water. It also generally will not penetrate deeply into dense forests, but it will grow readily in open forests and forest edges. Its range is still in the early stages of expansion in North America and will continue if left unchecked.

Impacts of Invasion

In addition to the risks of phototoxicity and potential blindness, there are other impacts of invasion. Due to its large size and phototoxic effects, it can impede access to water, trails, and recreational areas.

Giant Hogweed also negatively impacts soil dynamics because some studies have shown that it decomposes more slowly than native species resulting in a slower turnover of organic matter. The annual litter that it produces can also smother nearby native species preventing their germination or regrowth.

Studies by fisheries in the USA have shown that Heracleum mantegazzianum can shade native species in riparian areas and eventually replace them. This has been shown to increase erosion due to the herbaceous nature of the plant and the timing of flooding, leaving bare soil prone to increased erosion. This can negatively impact flooding as well as habitat for native fish.

Because Giant Hogweed grows to such massive sizes, it can shade out native vegetation anywhere it is allowed to grow. Actual studies on species richness have been conflicting, however, where it has been shown to increase in grassland habitats and a decrease in woodlands where it has invaded. Data on its impacts on species richness in North America are lacking altogether, but it is safe to assume that it will have a negative impact on most habitats.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Heracleum mantegazzianum provides virtually no wildlife value as most wildlife does not eat the plant, and birds seldom eat the seeds. Bees do visit the flowers, however, including native bees. But as with all invasive species, if they were not present, the native bees would find other native flowers instead.

Methods to Remove Heracleum mantegazzianum

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and sometimes can still be found in your local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Giant Hogweed, and do not plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Physical Control of Giant Hogweed

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming, but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

Safety PPE to Use During Removal

Physical methods to remove Giant Hogweed are challenging due to the phototoxic side effects of physical contact. Proper PPE will help prevent any temporary or permanent damage to your skin or eyes. Do not attempt to handle the plant in any way without proper PPE. Gloves must always be worn while handling the plant at any stage of growth. Also, wear a thick long sleeve shirt and jeans or other suitable pants made of thick fabric to ensure that they cannot make contact with your skin. Wearing a hat with mosquito netting is also highly recommended to prevent it from coming into contact with your face. Safety glasses are also highly recommended to prevent possible temporary or permanent blindness should any sap get into your eyes. See the Affiliates link at the bottom for suitable PPE.

Dealing With Young Plants

The best time to remove Giant Hogweed is when the plants are young. At this time, they can be hand-pulled wearing gloves or using a weed puller. Try to get the root as much as possible.

Dealing With Mature Plants

If the plant is already large, this makes removal much more challenging. It becomes difficult to remove the above-ground plant growth, and the rootstock also gets quite large and deep. In this case, it is more effective to wait until the flowering year and then remove all flower heads. Because it is monocarpic, it will only flower for one season, and then the plant will die. To remove the flower heads, simply cut them off into a garbage bag while wearing gloves. Do not dispose of the flower heads without solarizing them in the garbage bag first, as the heads will continue to ripen even once cut off from the plant.

You will likely need to bring a footstool or a small ladder with you to reach the top of the larger plants. You will need to return to the site a few times that season as it often will produce new flower heads. If it has gone to seed at any time, be extra careful to cut the heads directly into the garbage bag to prevent the seeds from dropping on the ground. If there are any seeds at all, be sure to return to the site the following year to destroy any seedlings while they are still small enough to easily pull out by hand while wearing gloves.

Another method to deal with mature plants is to sever their taproot or destroy the crown by digging 10-15 cm below the soil and severing it. This method can destroy a mature plant before it flowers. This can still be challenging, however, due to the size of the plant. The above-ground growth will, in most cases, need to first be removed so that you can even get close enough to the taproot or crown to destroy it.

Mechanical Removal

Mechanical removal has been shown to be ineffective, as the plants will return from their hearty rootstock after they have been cut or mowed. Repeated mowings also have proven ineffective. Sometimes repeated mowings have been seen to turn the plant into a perennial that will flower multiple times before dying instead of the monocarpic perennial that naturally only flowers once and dies. Mechanical removal is not recommended. Burning is also ineffective for the same reason that it will likely regrow from its hearty taproot.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

If you have plants that have seeds on them, they must either be burned or solarized. If you are unable to burn in your area, then you must solarize them. To solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 8-10 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. Some sources recommend shorter solarization periods but differential heat in the bags or under the tarps, cloud cover, and other temperature variances make shorter periods less reliable. That is why it is important they are solarized for as long as possible if using that method.

Chemical Control of Giant Hogweed

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches always significantly increase.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Giant Hogweed. And because it often grows in or near riparian areas, chemical control cannot be used there due to risks to fish and humans.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Heracleum mantegazzianum

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. These control methods are often extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also usually not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there.

The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective.

At this time, the only known biological control method of Heracleum mantegazzianum is the use of intensive grazing by sheep or goats and rooting by pigs. Cattle will selectively avoid eating it, as with most invasive species, so they are not a suitable control method.

Using sheep, goats, and pigs can be challenging, however, because of the phototoxicity issue. Animals with thick, dark pelts are more resistant to toxic side effects. The area of control will need to be penned in, and the sheep or goats be allowed to graze for the first season to destroy the above-ground growth. The following year pigs can be let in to root out the roots and eat them as well as any sprouts as they come up. If pigs are unavailable, then the sheep or goats can be left in there for multiple seasons, and an integrated approach can be used for stubborn plants that keep re-sprouting. In this case, you will need to use physical control by manually destroying the crown or severing the taproot using a shovel.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form, this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In many cases of removal, the site will need to be replanted because the bare soil will allow the seed bank of this and other potentially invasive species to germinate. Single isolated plants can simply be destroyed or dealt with using physical control, and then native species will regrow in their absence. Occasionally, however, Giant Hogweed will produce a large patch. In those cases, a replanting program should be planned and ready to implement upon removal.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Giant Hogweed removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Seeds will also continue to germinate for several years if the plant was fully established in the area and not an isolated case. Seedling removal is by far the easiest method of control. The area should be monitored once a year for several years after the plants were removed to ensure they do not become re-established.

References and Resources

CABI on Heracleum mantegazzianum https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/26911

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Fire Effects Information System on Giant Hogweed https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/forb/herman/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Rhododendron albiflorum White-Flowered Rhododendron - Native to North America

Rhododendron albiflorum photo from the Monashee Mountain Range of British Columbia, Canada, by Lyrae Willis
Rhododendron albiflorum photo from the Monashee Mountain Range of British Columbia, Canada, by Lyrae Willis

White Rhododendron or Cascade Azalea Rhododendron albiflorum – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

I first found the White-Flowered Rhododendron, also sometimes called the Cascade Azalea, high in the subalpine forests of the Caren Range on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia. I was so excited to see a native Rhododendron that was so lovely and so hardy that it grew so high in the mountains. It has gorgeous large white fragrant flowers that capture the eye and lovely shiny light green foliage. Rhododendron albiflorum is native to the Pacific Northwest of the USA and to southern British Columbia and Alberta, Canada. It is a native shrub of the Ericaceae family in the Ericales Order of flowering dicots. If you live in the mountains in this area, I truly recommend going out and seeing it for yourself, or even trying growing it in your yard. Either way, it is a lovely shrub, and you will not be disappointed!

Description of Cascade Azalea Rhododendron albiflorum

Stem & Leaves

Rhododendron albiflorum is a native shrub of the Ericaceae family in the Ericales Order of flowering dicots. It grows from rhizomes and reaches heights of approximately 2.5 m. Its stems may be mostly smooth to furrowed and have unbranched hairs that are not glandular and are usually reddish in color.

The deciduous leaves are narrowly elliptic or ovate to obovate and 2 – 9 cm long by 0.8 – 3 cm wide. They are thin, membranous to chartaceous, and the margins are minutely serrated and ciliate when young. Leaves are hairy when young, and hairs may or may not be stipitate-glandular. Hairs may remain with age, or they may become more or less glabrescent. The apex of the leaf is acute to more or less rounded. Leaves are on hairy petioles (leaf stalks).

Flowers & Fruits

The pleasantly fragrant and somewhat pendulous flowers appear in later spring and summer soon after the leaves open up. They appear in axillary fasciculate inflorescences on 9 – 15 mm pedicels that are hairy and may or may not be stipitate-glandular. Its calyx lobes are 5-17 mm long, eglandular and stipitate-glandular-hairy, and its margins are also glandular-hairy. The partially connate (fused) petals are white and, on rare occasions, may be marked with yellow. They are basally fused into a 6 – 15 mm tube that spreads into five 3 – 9 mm long lobes that may be glabrous or minutely hairy. Flowers are cyathiform (bowl-shaped) and 9 – 22 mm in diameter. There are 9 (-12) stamens that are not exserted and are somewhat unequal in length, varying from 5.5 – 14 mm long.

White-Flowered Rhododendron fruits are capsules that are borne on erect pedicels. Capsules measure 6 – 8 mm long by 5 – 6 mm wide and are hairy. Hairs may be eglandular, stipitate-glandular, or unicellular hairy. The seeds have distinct tails on them, and their testa is closely appressed.

Toxicity

Although no mention of toxicity of this particular species could be found, all parts of plants of the Rhododendron genus are considered toxic, though rarely lethal to humans and occasionally to livestock and pets. Even though native people occasionally ingested it as medicine, it is no longer recommended for internal consumption today.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Rhododendron albiflorum is unique from other species of its genus with its white axillary flowers that are nearly actinomorphic and somewhat pendulous. However, the following are the most frequently confused members of its genus that grow in their range.

  • Rhododendron menziesii – this is what it is most often confused with due to similar leaves, size, and habitat preferences. However, once in flower, they are easy to distinguish because of the small urn-shaped, somewhat orange or pinkish flowers of Rhododendron menziesii.
  • Rhododendron occidentale – this also grows to similar sizes with similar leaves, but its range does not really overlap as it is found in coastal Oregon south to California, while Rhododendron albiflorum is only found in the Cascades in Oregon (somewhat inland). Also, the flowers of Rhododendron occidentale are white and yellow with longer lobes and are not bowl-shaped.
  • Rhododendron columbianum – this grows to similar sizes but is usually shorter. It is also found in some of the same range but only grows in wet habitats. Finally, its inflorescences are always terminal, not axillary, and the flowers are not pendulous.

Distribution of Cascade Azalea Rhododendron albiflorum

White-Flowered Rhododendron is found only in Western Canada and the Pacific Northwest of the USA.

In Canada, Cascade Azalea is found in British Columbia and Alberta (in the mountains of Alberta).

In the USA, Rhododendron albiflorum is found in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and Montana. There is also a disjunct population, sometimes called Rhododendron albiflorum var warrenii found in Colorado that is morphologically unique and considered Critically Imperiled.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of White-Flowered Rhododendron

White-Flowered Rhododendron is found mostly in montane subalpine and alpine habitats from 800 – 3500 m above sea level. They are typically found in coniferous forests, alpine thickets, stream banks, and seeps on rocky outcrops in the mountains.

Cascade Azalea will grow in full sun, part shade, or shade and grows in moist, wet, or dry soil types. However, it prefers full sun to partial shade and moist or wet soil.

Growing Rhododendron albiflorum in Your Garden

Rhododendron albiflorum is very cold-hardy, down to -30° C when dormant. However, flowers and new growth can be damaged by late frosts in the spring. They are best grown in light woodland shade in peaty or well-drained sandy loam soil with an acidic pH between 4.5 and 5.5. They will not grow well in dry arid soils, alkaline soils, or heavy clay soils.

The rootstock of Rhododendron species is surface-rooting, so do not allow other plants to grow on their roots. They form a root ball, though, which makes them relatively easy to transplant as long as the root ball is kept intact. If collecting a plant from the wild, always follow ethical wildcrafting principles and take only one small plant from a large healthy patch. Alternatively, you could air-layer several plants in the summer and then harvest them 14-24 months later. This is the easiest method of propagation. Cuttings of half-ripe wood are difficult to get to sprout roots.

If you ethically wildcraft some seeds, these are best harvested in the autumn and then sown that same autumn in a greenhouse with artificial light. Or, you could sow them in a cold greenhouse in mid-spring. Surface-sow the seeds and do not allow the soil to dry out. Pot the young plants and grow them in a greenhouse the first winter.

Wildlife Values of White-Flowered Rhododendron

Bees of all kinds will visit the flowers when in bloom. Otherwise, the toxicity of the genus prevents most wildlife from utilizing the plants. However, small birds are sometimes seen roosting on them, and small ground-dwelling rodents and lizards will use the thickets for cover.

Status of Rhododendron albiflorum

White-Flowered Rhododendron is considered Globally Secure, G5. It is currently not listed at all on the IUCN Red List.

In Canada, Rhododendron albiflorum is Locally Secure S5 in both provinces where it is found, British Columbia and Alberta.

In the USA, Rhododendron albiflorum is considered Vulnerable S3 in Montana and Critically Imperiled S2 in Colorado. The disjunct Colorado population has a smaller calyx and shorter stamens and is sometimes considered a separate variety of Rhododendron albiflorum var warrenii. In Washington, Oregon, and Idaho, it has not yet been ranked.

Cascade Azalea is not found outside of the western USA and western Canada.

Traditional or Other Uses of Cascade Azalea

Cascade Azalea as Food

The Okanagan-Colville people used to make tea with the leaves of Cascade Azalea. The Thompson used the branches in the bottoms and tops of their berry-picking baskets to keep their berries fresh.

Rhododendron albiflorum Medicinal Uses

The Okanagan and the Thompson both used a poultice of powdered burned wood mixed with grease for swellings and a decoction of the bark for stomach ailments. The Skokomish used a decoction of the buds for colds and sore throats. They also chewed the buds for an ulcerated stomach and applied the chewed buds as a poultice for cuts.

White-Flowered Rhododendron as an Ornamental

Sometimes Cascade Azalea is used as an ornamental shrub in gardens where conditions are right. It is a low-maintenance plant with gorgeous fragrant flowers. The Thompson native peoples also used the plant as a fragrance at times.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Rhododendron albiflorum

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states. See the above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely fragrant flowers.

If you are harvesting Rhododendron albiflorum from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, branches, buds, or plants you see.

Wildcrafting

If you are wanting to grow Rhododendron albiflorum in your garden, air-layering is the most successful method of propagation and the least impactful on the wild populations.

Air layering is very simple. All you need is some moss (which can be collected on-site), water, plastic, garden twine, and a knife. Use a knife to cut a small wound into a branch where you want it to root. Be sure not to cut too deep and never cut all the way around a branch, or it will die above the cut. Then wrap the wounded area in moistened moss. Wrap the moss in some plastic. I just cut thick plastic bags into pieces for this purpose. Then tie it on with some garden twine to ensure it stays on there.

Create several plants at the same time and return about 14-24 months later to harvest your new plants by cutting them off just below the plastic and twine. Bring the plastic and twine home with you to dispose of accordingly. Then simply pot up your new plants or plant them directly in the ground in suitable soil in a suitable location.

Picked buds and leaves can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

Processing

To dry the leaves or buds, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Once dried, the leaves and buds can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference. Do not grind or crush the leaves or roots until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Useful Temperate Plants on Rhododendron albiflorum http://temperate.theferns.info/plant/Rhododendron+albiflorum

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Ilex aquifolium English Holly - Invasive Plants of North America

Removal of invasive English Holly - Ilex aquifolium - young shrubs are easy to remove by hand before the roots get too large.
Ilex aquifolium aka English, European, Common or Christmas Holly, an aggressive invasive species in North America

Introduction

Ilex aquifolium goes by several common names, including English Holly, European Holly, Common Holly, and Christmas Holly. It is a highly invasive plant in the moist climates of North America, particularly on the west coast, where it is beginning to dominate the understory of some forest ecosystems. Despite this, it is still widely sold in stores throughout this region.

I grew up on the coast of BC, Canada, and remember finding it all the time under the canopy of the forest. I recently returned to the coast and spent some time there and was horrified by the amount it appears to be spreading and replacing our native understory species. In a single forest walk, I managed to pull out about 40 immature plants from the forest canopy. There were several larger ones I could not pull out by hand due to their deep and aggressive root system.

Next time I return to the coast and go for a forest walk, I will be sure to bring a trowel or a small shovel. Do your part on your forest walks and pull out any small holly shrubs you find growing before they get large and too difficult to remove. Just make sure you are not pulling Oregon Grape or native hollies if you live on the east coast; see Similar Species below for more information.

Description of Ilex aquifolium

Leaves & Stems of Ilex aquifolium

Common Holly is a slow-growing evergreen perennial shrub or small tree that grows from 5-25 m tall. However, it usually only grows to the shorter 5-10 m shrub height. It may grow from a single trunk, or it may be multi-stemmed. Their trunks are usually less than 40 cm in diameter. Larger trunks can be from 40-80 cm in diameter, but they rarely exceed 100 cm. The bark is green when young but turns grey when it matures. While specimens as old as 500 years have been reported, it seldom lives longer than 100 years.

The leaves of English Holly are arranged alternately on the branches. They are tough, thick, and glossy green and measure 3-12 cm long and 2-6 cm wide. The margins are often characteristically undulate (wavy) and toothed with spiny tipped teeth. Sometimes the leaf margins are smooth, particularly on older specimens.

Flowers & Fruits of Ilex aquifolium

English Holly is a dioecious plant meaning that there are separate male and female plants. The flowers are whitish and have 4 petals and 4 sepals that are both fused near their base. In males, the flowers are usually more yellowish and appear in axillary groups (in clusters in the leaf axils). Female specimens have single flowers or in groups of three, and the flowers or white or somewhat pink. The male and female shrubs are impossible to tell apart until they begin to flower from 4 – 12 years of age.

Fruits are small red or yellow drupes, berry-like in appearance, and only grow on female plants. They are 6-10 mm in diameter. Each drupe contains 3-4 small stony seeds.

Toxicity of Ilex aquifolium

The drupes are toxic to humans and pets, causing vomiting and diarrhea, but they are generally not lethal. Birds typically eat them later in the winter after the frosts have softened them and made them less bitter; they are immune to their toxic effects.

Similar Species Ilex aquifolium is Frequently Confused With

There are a few other plant genera that have similar leaves to Ilex aquifolium. The Oregon-Grape genus Berberis of which we have a few native species growing in North America have evergreen spiny-toothed leaves, but their leaves are opposite rather than alternate, and they have blue-colored berries rather than red or yellow drupes. Osmanthus heterophyllus or Holly Olive is a member of the olive family native to Europe that also has similar leaves and has been introduced in the USA. Holly Olive differs from true hollies by its opposite rather than alternate leaves and bark that turns grayish to blackish with age and has a characteristic cracking pattern to it.

The other Ilex species can be distinguished as follows:

  • Ilex opaca American Holly – native to the eastern and south-central USA. It has matte yellowish-green leaves that are seldom glossy, as in Ilex aquifolium. Its trunk is grey with wart-like bumps, and its mature branches turn brown rather than grey. It also grows more of a tree than a shrub, with trunk diameters commonly of 50 cm and up to 120 cm in diameter.
  • Ilex cornuta Chinese Holly – native to China but widely introduced throughout the eastern and south-central USA. It has more rectangular-shaped leaves with only 5 (4) spines, but they are glossy green like Ilex aquifolium. Chinese Holly never grows to tree size, it rarely exceeds 3 m in height, and its drupes are larger than European Holly. The bark is smooth and grey but becomes flaky with age.
  • Ilex vomitoria Yaupon Holly – native to southeastern North America. It is a small tree or shrub with glossy green leaves, but the leaves are much smaller and are not spiny. Instead, the leaves have crenate or coarsely serrated margins.

Native Distribution of Ilex aquifolium

European or Common Holly is native to western and southern Europe, northwest Africa, and southwest Asia.

Habitat Types Where European Holly is Found

European or Common Holly is typically found growing under forest canopies, oak, and beech, especially in its native range. It typically requires moist and shady environments, making it particularly suitable as an undergrowth species in any moist forest. Also, it is common on moist and shady slopes, cliffs, and mountain gorges. Sometimes, however, it can also form dense thickets in more open fields and meadows. It is a rugged pioneer species that can tolerate both frosts and droughts.

Human Uses of Common Holly

European or Common Holly is widely used as an ornamental shrub or small tree in gardens. It is also extremely popular in Christmas decorations, where it is put in wreaths, garlands, and various other displays.

In traditional European herbal medicine, the leaves of Ilex aquifolium were used as a diuretic, to treat fevers, and as a laxative. It is seldom used in modern herbal medicine, however, and its berries are considered toxic, so the plant should be used with caution.

Distribution of Ilex aquifolium in North America

In Canada, Ilex aquifolium has been recorded as introduced in BC and possibly in Ontario. It is becoming particularly invasive in coastal BC.

In the USA, English Holly is found in Washington, Oregon, and California in the west and Virginia and New Jersey in the east. It has also been introduced in Hawaii. According to iNaturalist, it is located in many more states, but many may still be in cultivation, and some could be native Ilex spp that have been misidentified.

In Mexico, Ilex aquifolium has not yet been reported so far.

English Holly has been introduced on every continent. It seems particularly bad in New Zealand, Tasmania, and North America.

How English Holly Spreads

It is primarily spread long-distance by deliberate human introductions as an ornamental species in gardens.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through birds that eat the abundant drupes later in winter after they have softened and their taste improves. They spread the seeds through their feces, where the seeds then germinate in any suitable habitat in both shade and sun.

English Holly also spreads readily vegetatively through suckering. This is how most of the thickets of Common Holly form and how it becomes a dominant understory species of the forests.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

The way that English Holly spreads through the feces of birds puts all habitats at risk providing there is enough moisture. They will not grow in permanently wet wetlands, and they also will not grow in arid or semi-arid areas. Any moderately moist to the wet climate, however, is at risk of invasion.

Their ability to grow in both sun and shade makes them a common invader of forests in particular but also roadsides, fields, meadows, cliffs, gorges, and anywhere else as long as there is ample moisture.

European Holly has proven to be particularly invasive in the temperate rainforests of northwestern North America, where it easily invades the mixed forest canopies and thrives in the moist environment there.

Impacts of Invasion

Ilex aquifolium has deep and aggressive roots that tend to out-compete the native species for nutrients and water. There is also evidence that English Holly alters the soil conditions by adding sulfur and large amounts of organic matter to the soil, which makes the conditions less hospitable for native species.

English Holly forms dense thickets that can dominate the understory of the forest and out-shade native shrubs and other native plants, reducing the biodiversity of the forests it invades.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Thickets of Ilex aquifolium are known to be used as a refuge by small birds and deer. The flowers are attractive to bees, small butterflies, wasps, and flies, and the berries provide an important late-winter food source. However, as with all invasive plants, the native wildlife would have depended on the native plants that grew there before the Common Holly replaced them.

Methods to Remove English Holly

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any European Holly, and never plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and stop selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

If you live in the eastern part of North America, why not grow one of the two native hollies instead, Ilex opaca or Ilex vomitoria? If you live in western North America and want some spiny glossy green foliage, try growing native Berberis species instead. They have lovely foliage and beautiful blue-colored berries. The native Ilex and Berberis species can even be substituted for Common Holly in Christmas decorations.

Physical Control of European Holly

Young Ilex aquifolium can easily be pulled out by hand if small enough. 
This is one of many I pulled out by hand on one of my forest walks.
Young Ilex aquifolium can easily be pulled out by hand if small enough.
This is one of many I pulled out by hand on one of my forest walks.

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but causes the least amount of environmental damage.

Physical methods to remove European Holly generally involve uprooting the plants. This is best done when the plants are young before their aggressive roots have had a chance to establish themselves. Fortunately, they are a slow-growing species, so on a single walk through the forest, you can single-handedly destroy dozens of young plants with very little effort. Larger plants will need to be dug out with a shovel to get their roots. If the roots are not dug out, they can re-grow from the stump.

For larger shrubby plants, use pruners to remove the upper growth before using a shovel to dig out the root mass. For tree forms of Ilex aquifolium you can try girdling it. This involves removing a strip of bark from all the way around the circumference of the tree. As with all trees and woody shrubs, the only part of the tree’s trunk that is alive and transporting nutrients is the layer directly under the bark. If you cut down to the heartwood and remove the bark in a strip all around the tree, it can no longer transport water and nutrients to the leaves. The tree will then die and can be left to rot or be removed.

The best time to remove European Holly is before it is in berry, in the spring or early summer. If you need to remove them when in berry, be sure to clip off the berries before removing the shrub or tree and place them in the bag for proper disposal.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

Trees or shrubs without berries on them can be burned, cut into firewood, or left to rot. If you have plants that have mature berries on them, they must either be burned or solarized. If you are unable to burn in your area, then solarizing is a viable option. To solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags. Then leave them in the full sun for a good 8 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. The plants can then be disposed of. They can be brought to a garbage dump where you can inform them they are an invasive species so they can deal with them accordingly.

Chemical Control of European Holly

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increase.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only European Holly. If you do use chemical control, it must be stem injected. The tough evergreen leaves readily resist the absorption of pesticides making foliar applications ineffective.

Chemical control is generally not recommended.

Biological Control of Ilex aquifolium

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other biological agent to control an invasive species once it is fully established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective for some invasive species.

Unfortunately, there are no current methods of biological control for English Holly in North America other than goats. Domestic goats are aggressive and non-selective browsers. They will literally eat anything. This will work best on shrubs and thickets. Often goats will eat the bark off of trees so that they can even kill off the trees if they manage to eat all the way around the tree.

To use goats, the patch should be penned in, and then the goats left there to graze for at least 2 years. They will eventually destroy all the above-ground growth and then eat the new sprouts as they come up. This can then be followed with rootstock removal for any stubborn plants that may remain. Alternatively, simply leave the goats in the area for another year until you see no more sprouts. At this time, they can be moved to another patch, and that patch can be replanted with native vegetation. An ongoing monitoring program should then be implemented to be sure they do not sprout again.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest form, this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings. Otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Sometimes Crucial

Removal of single plants from the understory of the forest will not require replanting with native species. Simply remove and monitor, and other plants will grow in their place. However, in cases of the removal of thickets that dominate the area, the site should be replanted with native species. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement once the English Holly has been removed. You will need to research species that are native to your area. Ideally, use ones from your local environment to ensure local ecotypes are represented. Alternatively, you can purchase suitable plants from a nursery in your area that specializes in native species.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive European Holly removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Sometimes roots left behind will re-sprout into new plants. Furthermore, birds will keep bringing in new seedlings if there are still plants in the wider surrounding environment. For these reasons, yearly monitoring should be put in place to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established, especially since that is the easiest time to remove them. With ongoing monitoring, we can keep invasive species in check and promote local biodiversity in the process.

References and Resources

Best Management Practices for English Holly in the Metro Vancouver Region http://www.metrovancouver.org/services/regional-planning/PlanningPublications/EnglishHollyBMP.pdf

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Ilex aquifolium https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ilex_aquifolium

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Fouquieria splendens Ocotillo - Native Plant of North America

Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens plant growth form with flowers
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens plant growth form with flowers
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup

Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens – Native Plants of North America

Introduction

Fouquieria splendens Ocotillo is part of a small genus of 11 plant species and the only genus in the very small family of Fouquieriaceae. The entire family is endemic to the arid southwestern US and northern Mexican deserts. At first glance, you might think it is related to the Cactaceae family in the Caryophyllales order. However, they are not at all related. The Fouquieriaceae are part of the Ericales order. If you take a close look at their flowers, you will see they resemble Ericaceae far more than they do Cactaceae. Only their spiny stems and their love of arid deserts resemble the Cactaceae family.

It is an interesting and unique plant and a great low-maintenance addition to any southern USA or northern Mexico garden. Once established, simply enjoy its beauty, no need to water or fertilize. Many of the 11 species of this genus are endangered and have very limited geographical ranges. If you have any in your yard, please allow them to grow and help propagate them.

Description of Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens

Stem & Leaves of Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo is a shrub with multiple semi-succulent greenish spreading, but upright stems that branch heavily from its base but rarely again after that. Younger stems are green and capable of photosynthesis, but older stems turn grey. Stems grow to 10 m tall and 5 cm in diameter near the base. The stems are covered in spines from hardened petioles (leaf stalks) from the previous season’s leaves. It is a slow-growing dry, season deciduous shrub that may live up to 200 years.

Leaves and spines of Fouquieria splendens - Olive Lee State Park, New Mexico
Leaves and spines of Fouquieria splendens – Olive Lee State Park, New Mexico

Its first leaves on new growth produce a petiole (leaf stalk) which hardens into a sharp spine that remains after the leaf falls off. After a rain, its new green leaves sprout from below the spiny petioles and may persist for weeks or months. Leaves are 2 – 4 cm long and ovate in shape.

Flowers & Fruits of Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup from Mohave County, Arizona
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup from Mohave County, Arizona
Fresh fruits of Fouquieria splendens  from Carlsbad, NM, USA
Fresh fruits of Fouquieria splendens from Carlsbad, NM, USA

The crimson red flowers appear in spring and summer in dense terminal clusters 15 – 25 cm long at the ends of the stems. They have 5 overlapping sepals and 5 petals that are connate (joined) into a slightly zygomorphic tube. They have several exserted stamens with crimson red filaments topped with yellow anthers. They are filled with nectar and feed the native hummingbirds.

Its fruit is a green seed-filled capsule that turns brown when ripe.

Similar Species Fouquieria splendens is Frequently Confused With

With its spreading stems, lack of branches, small leaves, and cactus-like appearance, this rules out confusion with cacti due to the presence of leaves (exceedingly rare in Cactaceae) and its spreading habit that does not resemble any cactus in its range. The red tubular flowers on a cactus-like plant also make it difficult to confuse with other genera or families. However, there are 11 species of Fouquieria in North America, though most are quite rare and many are endangered. Following are 7 of the more well-known species and how to differentiate them from Ocotillo.

  • Fouquieria burragei – a micro endemic species restricted to the gulf coast of Baja California Sur where it is also considered endangered. It grows 3 – 7 m tall and has a more spreading habit giving the overall shape a fan-like appearance rather than the tall columnar branches of Ocotillo. It also has white to red flowers with numerous exserted stamens.
  • Fouquieria columnaris – this is a strange tree-like species growing to 20 m tall with a single columnar trunk with a diameter of up to 25 cm. It has a very narrow range being restricted to Baja California, northern Baja California Sur, and a small population off the coast of Sonora.
  • Fouquieria diguetii – this one is restricted to Baja California, Baja California Sur and the coasts of Sonora and Sinaloa. It grows 1.8 – 3 m tall. Its leaves are dark green and elliptic up to 2 cm long
  • Fouquieria formosa – this one is restricted to central and southern Mexico with a limited range. It grows up to 10 m in height, reaching small tree-size proportions. Its range does not seem to overlap with Ocotillo.
  • Fouquieria macdougalii – this one is restricted to Sonora, Sinaloa, and the eastern edge of Chihuahua. It is a tree Ocotillo with a trunk 1 – 2 m tall and up to 40 cm wide. It has branching stems that hang pendulously on the ends (unlike Fouquieria splendens) and grow to a total of up to 11 m.
  • Fouquieria purpusii – this one is restricted to Puebla and Oaxaca, and its range likely does not overlap with Ocotillo. It has a unique bulbous stem at the base and white flowers. It is endangered.
  • Fouquieria shrevei – this is a rare micro-endemic species of Coahuila and Durango that is restricted to some gypsum outcroppings. It grows to 3 m tall and has white instead of red flowers, and its leaves are broader than any of the other species in the genus. It is an endangered species.

Distribution of Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo is found only in the Sonoran, Chihuahua, and Colorado deserts of the southwestern USA and northern Mexico.

In the USA, Ocotillo is found in California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas.

In Mexico, Fouquieria splendens is found in Baja California, Baja California Norte, Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Durango, Coahuila, Tamaulipas, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, Queretaro, Hidalgo, and Puebla. It is not found south of Puebla.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Ocotillo

Ocotillo is a desert-dwelling shrub. It prefers open and very rocky habitats like rocky slopes, mesas, washes, and desert grasslands. It grows in full sun to part shade in well-drained soil that remains dry most of the year. Fouquieria splendens prefers sandy or rocky loam, limestone, or granite-based soils with a neutral to alkaline pH of 7 – 9. It is tolerant of mild freezing temperatures and is very drought tolerant.

Growing Fouquieria splendens in Your Garden

If you live in the arid or semi-arid southern USA or northern Mexico, Ocotillo is a terrific landscape shrub. Once established, it requires little to no maintenance, not even water, unless in an overly-extended period of drought. They are resilient plants and generally will only die if you over-water them. Plant them, and once established, ignore them completely, and they will thrive. If you do water, never do so more than once per month.

It can be propagated from seed but reproduces readily from cuttings taken at any time of the year. Cuttings are a faster and more reliable method. You can take cuttings from wild specimens being sure to follow the rules of Ethical Wildcrafting, where you harvest cuttings from 1 in 20 stems that you see. Simply dip the end in rooting hormone and plant in moist but well-drained soil and keep it relatively moist (but not wet) until it becomes established, then cease watering.

If gathering seeds, gather 1 in every 20 ripe brown capsules you find before they split open. Then allow them to dry completely and plant the seeds untreated. Extra seeds can be stored in the fridge.

Ocotillo can be planted year-round. Smaller plants grown by seeds or cuttings in pots will transplant well. Do not bury the stems and water occasionally during the establishment phase but be sure to allow it to dry between waterings as they will not tolerate water logging.

Large plants do not transplant as well. If you are moving a large plant, you should plant it to the same depth as it was originally and with the same side south-facing as it was in its previous location, as this side is more adapted to the sun and heat.

Wildlife Values of Ocotillo

Hummingbirds are the main pollinators of Ocotillo, who are attracted to the red tubular flowers and feed on the abundant nectar. Native carpenter bees also visit the flowers, and bats may as well.

Verdin and other desert birds visit the plants. Its seeds are eaten by numerous native birds and small mammals.

They are host to Hemileuca electra silkmoths.

Status of Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo is considered Globally Secure, G5. This assessment seems premature given the lack of actual data on its assessment in both the US and Mexico.

In the USA, Fouquieria splendens is considered critically Imperiled S1 in Nevada. In all other states, it currently has no status rank and is in need of proper assessment.

No official information on its status in Mexico could be found.

Traditional or Other Uses of Ocotillo

Fouquieria splendens Medicinal Uses

The Mahuna people used Fouquieria splendens as a blood purifier and tonic. Other Native Americans used fresh flowers or roots on wounds to slow bleeding, and they would bathe in water with flowers or roots to help relieve fatigue.

Ocotillo is also a mild expectorant used for coughs.

It is also sometimes used for achy limbs, varicose veins, urinary tract infections, benign prostate growths, and cervical varicosities and to improve the function of the lymphatic system.

Ocotillo as Food

Fresh flowers are sometimes added to salads to impart a tangy flavor. Flowers are sometimes collected and dried and used in tea. The Cahuilla used the fresh flowers in water as a summertime drink. The Papago pressed the nectar out of flowers, then hardened it like rock candy and chewed it as a favorite delicacy.

The Cahuilla would grind the parched seeds into flour to make cakes.

The Yavapai children would suck the tasty nectars out of the fresh flowers.

Ocotillo As Ornamental or Tools

Individual stems are sometimes used as poles as fencing material and often take root to form a living fence. Plants make a terrific ornamental border to keep animals or people out of an area. The Cahuilla often used the stems as a border around crops to keep rodents out. Cahuilla would also use the stems for firewood.

Papago people used wooden stems often in their house building and other construction projects. They would also use thorns to pierce ears. The Pima people used the stems bound together with wire or rawhide for shelves and also used the plants in their gardens ornamentally. Seri people would use the stems to make sun and wind shelters.

The lightweight stems, once removed from thorns, make great walking sticks.

Gum resin from the bark has been used for waxing leather and as an adhesive, varnish, and waterproofing agent.

Ocotillo as Ceremonial

The Papago used flexible stems as ceremonial structures representing clouds or mountains.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Fouquieria splendens

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is currently critically imperiled in Nevada. See the above section on Status.

Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely form, low maintenance, and useful properties.

If you are harvesting Fouquieria splendens from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, fruit, or stems that you see.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp spines. Harvesting stems can be done with a small hand saw and simply cutting the stem near the base. Never pick more than one stem from a single plant. You can use a sharp knife to scrape the thorns from the stem or to remove the bark.

Picked fruits, roots, or flowers can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

Flowers can be eaten fresh upon picking. If used medicinally, it can be dried for later use.

When harvesting roots, dig near the base of the plant with a digging stick. Never use a shovel, as they will damage roots indiscriminately. Find a single healthy root and sever it with a sharp blade, then re-bury the other end. Being a desert plant, it is best to harvest roots anytime the soil is dry (most of the year) since wet soil could encourage the severed root to rot.

To dry the flowers, fruit capsules, or bark pieces, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Fruits, when dry, will split apart to reveal the seeds.

Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt and then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

Once dried, the fruits, seeds, and roots can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference.

Do not grind or crush any of the plant materials until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

California Native Plant Society on Fouquieria splendens https://calscape.org/Fouquieria-splendens-()

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Fouquieria splendens https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fouquieria_splendens

Wildflower.org on Fouquieria splendens https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=fosp2

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Himalayan Blackberry Rubus bifrons - Invasive in North America

Rubus bifron Himalayan Blackberry flowers.
Rubus bifron Himalayan Blackberry flowers.

Introduction

Himalayan Blackberry or Rubus armeniacus or Rubus bifrons (confusingly, both names seem to be currently accepted) is a well-known invasive species in some areas. Where I grew up on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia, Canada, it was everywhere. It does less well in the colder interior, but it still does grow there, just much less invasively. As a child, I did not understand that it was invasive and not native. I just loved eating handfuls of the huge juicy, and sweet berries. I would go out picking bucketfuls of berries every summer with my mother and my three brothers. Now I know how invasive it truly is, and somehow the fruits seem a little less sweet to me now. Once established, the removal of Himalayan Blackberry can be very challenging.

Description of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

Leaves & Stems of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

Rubus bifrons and Rubus armeniacus are members of the Rosaceae family of the Rosales Order of flowering dicots. They are a perennial vine-like trailing shrub that grows 1 – 7 m in length and 0.4 – 1 cm in diameter with arching or creeping stems that are sparse to densely hairy and armed with numerous prickles. They have a large root crown of roots and rhizomes that grow to 0.5 m and sometimes up to 2 m deep.

The leaves are deciduous or sometimes somewhat evergreen and palmately compound with 3 – 5 spreading leaflets. Leaflets are elliptic or ovate to sub-orbiculate and 6 -15 cm long and 4 – 9 cm wide with a rounded or somewhat cordate base. Margins are moderately to coarsely serrated, and the apex is acute to acuminate. The lower surface is whitish to grayish green, while the upper surface is glossy bright green or dark green. There are filiform or linear stipules that are 7 – 15 mm in length. The largest veins have hooked prickles on them.

Flowers & Fruits of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

Himalayan Blackberries usually have loose terminal inflorescences that generally extend past their subtending leaves. Sometimes the inflorescences may grow in the leaf axils as well. They are in a thryse with 10-60(-100) flowers in them. Pedicels are covered with prickles, are densely hairy, and may or may not be glandular. Flowers are bisexual with 5 white or pink petals. Petals are not connate (free), are obovate to elliptical and shape, and are 10 – 15 mm long each. It has filiform stamen filaments, and its ovaries are apically hairy.

They produce abundant black fruits that are juicy drupecetums, an aggregation of drupes on a fleshy accessory peduncle. Most people refer to them as ‘berries’. Fruits are globose or almost cylindrical and 1 – 2 cm long with 15 – 50 individual drupelets that strongly adhere to the accessory peduncle. Abundant fertile seeds are produced in their fruits, from 7000 – 13000 seeds per square meter of stems. Seeds can remain viable in the soil for several years.

Rubus armeniacus fruits By Daderot - Own work, see reference below
Rubus armeniacus fruits By Daderot – Own work, see reference below

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

There are native Rubus species throughout North America, but many are smaller plants with smaller or differently shaped and/or colored berries. Some native and introduced Rubus, however, grow to similar sizes but can be differentiated as follows:

  • Rubus laciniatus, Cutleaf or Evergreen blackberry, is native to Eurasia and has been fairly widely introduced in North America. It grows in similar habitats to similar sizes with similar fruits but can easily be distinguished by its lacinated or deeply cut leaflets as opposed to the whole serrated leaflets of Himalayan Blackberries.
  • Rubus pascuus Chesapeake Blackberry is a native shrub of Kentucky, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, North Carolina, and South Carolina. It has tighter and shorter inflorescences, is more densely glandular, and its terminal leaflets are erect rather than spreading in Rubus bifrons.
  • Rubus pensilvanicus Pennsylvania Blackberry is native throughout eastern Canada and the USA. It usually is a bit smaller than the Himalayan Blackberries, and its very red stems are densely covered in red prickles. It also only ever has white petals on its flowers, and its abaxial leaf sides are hairy but never whitish or grayish-green.
  • Rubus ulmifolius Elmleaf or Thornless Blackberry is another European species that has been introduced that superficially looks very similar, but it is only found in California, Oregon, and Nevada. If prickles are not present, they can easily be distinguished by this. However, sometimes it does have prickles, in which case you can differentiate it by its strongly pruinose stems that Himalayan blackberries lack.
  • Rubus vestitus European Blackberry is found on the Pacific coast of the US and Canada. It is an armed shrub that is generally smaller than 2 m. It also has narrower inflorescences, nearly round terminal leaflets, and stipitate-glandular hairs lacking in Himalayan Blackberries.

Native Distribution of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

There is much debate as to the taxonomic description of this species. Some sources call them all Rubus armeniacus and say these are from Europe. Other sources say that the species are only native to Armenia and Iran. Other sources call this plant Rubus bifrons and say it is widespread in Europe and includes Rubus armeniacus. In either case, whether the same or separate species, they are virtually identical, and both are native to Europe, one more widespread and the other less so.

Habitat Types Where Himalayan Blackberry is Found

Himalayan Blackberry grows in both wetland and upland environments. While it grows abundantly in riparian areas, it does not invade the permanently wet soils of the wetlands though it will tolerate temporary flooding of up to 40 days. It will even tolerate occasional flooding of brackish water. It grows best at low elevations but can grow up to 1200 and occasionally 1800 m above sea level.

Himalayan Blackberries prefer moist, nutrient-rich loam but do not require it. They can also be found growing in soils with a wide range of textures, fertilities, and pH from acid to alkaline. It prefers sunny sites but easily grows in part shade as well.

Human Uses of Himalayan Blackberry

Himalayan Blackberries are widely used as food. They are eaten fresh as berries or frozen or canned for winter use in pies, cakes, jams, jellies, and wines.

Blackberry roots and berries are often used to treat diarrhea, fluid retention, gout, diabetes, gout, and inflammation. It is sometimes used to prevent heart disease and cancer. It makes a good rinse for irritation of the mouth and throat.

They are planted along fences and trellises to create impenetrable barriers to keep people and animals out of an area.

Distribution of Rubus armeniacus, Rubus bifrons in North America

The Himalayan Blackberry species were first brought to North America as a food crop in 1885 for its abundant berries.

In Canada, Rubus bifrons has been recorded in British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, and Nova Scotia. Canadensys does not distinguish between the two species and uses only Rubus bifrons stating that Rubus armeniacus is a synonym.

In the USA, the Himalayan Blackberry is reported as two separate species. USDA states that Rubus bifrons is only found in the eastern part of the country in Oklahoma, Texas, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Maryland, Virginia, Washington DC, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts.

USDA states that Rubus armeniacus is more widespread in the west and scattered in the east. It is found in Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Montana, Nevada, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Missouri, Arkansas, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Ohio, Virginia, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Massachusetts.

In Mexico, Rubus bifrons so far has been reported in Veracruz and Oaxaca. Rubus armeniacus has been reported in Baja California (norte), Puebla, Mexico State, Jalisco, and Chiapas.

Himalayan Blackberries have now been introduced on every continent except Antarctica.

How Himalayan Blackberry Spreads

It is primarily spread long-distance by deliberate human introductions planting it in their gardens. It quickly escapes from cultivation due to its aggressive growth.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through birds and animals which eat the abundant fruit and then spread the seeds around in their feces. Humans also spread the fruits by picking them, eating them and dropping them, etc. They also spread vegetatively through their root crown and rhizomes and by rooting at nodes on their stems that come into contact with soil.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Himalayan Blackberries are considered particularly invasive on the west coast of North America in low-elevation riparian, deciduous, and conifer forests as well as grasslands. It is heavily invasive in riparian communities in that area. It invades the same types of areas in the east but may be less invasive there due to the other aggressive native and non-native vines that are abundant in that region.

Himalayan Blackberry will not invade permanently wet soils or high-elevation montane forests. It will grow in middle-elevation montane forests but not very well. It will also not grow in most arid areas due to lack of moisture unless it is in a riparian zone with perennial access to water.

Impacts of Invasion

In North America, the Himalayan Blackberry is considered the most invasive nonnative shrub on the western coast from British Columbia, Canada, south to California, USA. They are aggressively spreading shrubs that quickly scramble over and smother all other vegetation in their path, excluding tall trees, as they cannot climb as high as English Ivy, for example. However, it can quickly smother and kill all young trees in its path. It is highly competitive for light, space, and nutrients. Due to its aggressive growth, it quickly out-competes native vegetation.

It replaces the more bio-diverse native shrubs and herbs that would have otherwise grown there, creating complete monocultures if the conditions are suitable for them. This out-competes our native vegetation, reducing biodiversity and even causing local extirpation of species. It also forms dense thickets in riparian areas that impede movement and access to water by humans and animals alike.

Himalayan Blackberry is also an agricultural and range land weed that replaces crop and forage lands quickly if left unchecked. Himalayan Blackberry and Scotch Broom are the two most abundant agricultural and range land weeds, causing an estimated $85 million in losses annually.

The abundant dead canes they produce are also a significant fire risk when they die and become brittle as they burn easily.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Himalayan blackberries are widely eaten by bears, foxes, coyotes, squirrels, raccoons, deer, birds, slugs, and countless other native species. Most native ungulates prefer to browse the leaves, but some (white-tailed deer, for example) have been observed browsing the fruits. Leafcutter ants and leafhopper butterfly larvae also feed on the leaves. It is the preferred larval host plant for leafhopper butterflies. Pollen and nectar are also used by native bees, honey bees, and hummingbirds.

In addition, a multitude of small animals and birds use the blackberry thickets for cover, nesting, roosting, etc. The impenetrable thickets of thorns provide them protection from predators.

All of these animals, however, would have fed on the native Salmonberries, Thimbleberries, or other native species displaced by the invasive Rubus bifrons, however. The dependence of wildlife on the berries creates an additional challenge to the control or removal of the Himalayan Blackberries. Check out the control methods below for more information.

Methods to Remove Himalayan Blackberry

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in many local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Himalayan Blackberry. Do not plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Instead, buy suitable native Rubus species. There are multiple native blackberries and raspberries that are even more delicious and are just as easy to grow as invasive blackberries. Native Rubus species provide additional biodiversity and wildlife values as well.

In fact, due to wildlife values, this makes the removal of Himalayan Blackberry more challenging. Because native wildlife now depends on this non-native species, when you remove a large patch, it should be done in stages. Clear one-third or one-quarter of the patch (depending on the size).

Once cleared and few sprouts keep coming back, then it should be replanted with a variety of native salmonberries, thimbleberries, or other native shrubs that would have originally fed the wildlife in your area.

Research what species are native to your area to find suitable replacements. Then tackle the next fraction of the patch until you have replaced the invasive blackberry with a more biodiverse native selection.

Ongoing monitoring will, of course, be needed to ensure it does not return and overtake your planted native species. See the Integrated Management section below.

In public and natural areas minimizing disturbance and replanting disturbed areas as quickly as possible are the best prevention strategies for reducing the chance of invasion by Himalayan Blackberry or any other invasive species.

Physical Control of Himalayan Blackberry

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming, but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

The best time to remove Himalayan Blackberry is early in the spring, before or later during flowering but before the fruit has set to avoid further spreading the seeds.

Physical methods to remove Himalayan blackberries generally involve cutting, hoeing, digging, and burning. Often a combination of methods is used. Always wear gloves when handling the canes, as the prickles are very tough and sharp and will easily pierce the skin.

Young plants can be pulled by hand.

Mature plants require the cutting of the canes with cutters or loppers and then removing the rootstock.

Burning is also an effective method to remove the above-ground growth, but as with cutting, the rootstock will need to be dealt with as well. A single cutting back of the above-ground growth, however, if not followed with additional treatments, will actually increase the density of the thicket when it regrows. It must be followed with additional treatments and ongoing monitoring.

If the rootstock is not removed, it will grow back quite vigorously. One method is to repeatedly cut it back or burn it multiple times over multiple years until the roots are starved by the lack of above-ground growth.

Rootstocks can also be dug out with a shovel or a weed puller, but they are very tough, and this is only suitable in small patches.

If you have only a small patch to deal with and root digging is too labor-intensive, you could also cover the entire area with a black tarp for at least two growing seasons to solarize it. This is much less labor-intensive than returning repeatedly, but again this only works on small patches.

Note that it is virtually impossible to remove all of the rootstocks due to the size and depth that the roots spread to. Removing as much as you can is critical to success. However, it must be followed by ongoing monitoring over several years to ensure all new sprouts are destroyed.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

If you have live stems or plants that have seeds on them, they must either be burned in a hot enough fire or solarized. The fire must be hot enough to destroy the seeds. If you are not allowed fires in your area, then you will have to solarize them.

To solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 8 – 10 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. Some sources suggest less time for polarization, but in my experience, differential heat throughout the bag/tarped area as well as variations in sunlight intensity, can result in the survival of at least some seeds if done for a shorter duration. Take them to your local dump once done and inform them that they are invasive species so that they are disposed of appropriately.

Chemical Control of Himalayan Blackberry

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increase.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus. And due to the nature of Himalayan Blackberry, multiple applications are always needed over multiple years, further degrading the local environment.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Himalayan Blackberry

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day, there are still rats in Hawaii, but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of plants, roots, and seeds to actually control the Himalayan Blackberry on their own. Results this high have never been achieved in the field.

However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective at times. However, in North America, so far, there are no biological control methods in terms of insects, fungi, or other pathogens that have been approved. This is because they all put our abundant list of native Rubus species at risk as well.

Using Goats to Remove Himalayan Blackberries

The only recommended biological control method at this time is grazing by domestic goats. Domestic goats are aggressive and non-selective browsers. They will literally eat anything. To use goats, the patch should be penned in, and then the goats left there to graze for 3 years. They will eventually destroy all the above-ground growth and then eat the new sprouts as they come up.

This can be sped up by an entire year by first removing the above-ground growth and then allowing the goats to eat the sprouts as they come up.

This can then be followed with rootstock removal for any stubborn plants that may remain, or simply leave the goats in the area for another year until you see no more sprouts.

At this time, they can be moved to another patch, and that patch can be replanted with native vegetation and a monitoring program implemented to be sure they do not sprout again.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In all cases of Himalayan Blackberry removal, the site will need to be replanted once the majority of the infestation has been dealt with. This is because the bare soil will allow the seed bank of Himalayan Blackberry in the soil to germinate and re-invade the patch they were removed from. Or it will allow the invasion by other nonnative species, which all favor disturbed sites.

A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement in the 2nd to 4th year upon removal of the Himalayan Blackberry, depending on the speed and success of the removal method.

A variety of native species that are ideally seeds from the local environment to ensure local ecotypes should be planted. If local seeds cannot be gathered or started in time, then purchasing native plants from a reputable nursery specializing in local native species is a good alternative. This must then be followed by ongoing monitoring.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Himalayan Blackberry removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential.

Multiple visits should be made in the first two years to ensure that any surviving individuals, their sprouts, and their seedlings are removed so that the population is not able to recover.

Then yearly monitoring after that for at least five years to ensure that none return. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Himalayan Blackberry is aggressive and prolific and will out-compete planted vegetation if yearly monitoring is not put in place to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established.

References and Resources

CABI on Rubus armeniacus https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/116780

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Fire Effects Information System on Himalayan Blackberry https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/shrub/rubspp/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Rubus armeniacus fruits picture from Wikipedia By Daderot – Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=21796138

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia Himalayan Blackberry https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubus_armeniacus

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!