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Callery Pear is an Invasive Species of North America

Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  flowers
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear flowers

Introduction

Pyrus calleryana is often called the Bradford Pear after the cultivar that was planted widely in the US in the 1960s and 1970s and still sometimes is today. However, the Bradford Pear itself is an infertile cultivar, hence the more appropriate common name of the Callery Pear. The Bradford Pear cultivar can neither self-pollinate or cross-pollinate with the same cultivar as its seeds are infertile. However, if different cultivars of Pyrus calleryana are grown within 100 m of each other they can cross-pollinate and produce fertile offspring. The resulting Callery Pear is a fast-growing aggressive tree with a broad ecological tolerance, rapid growth, few pests and early sexual maturity. It produces abundant tiny fruits with abundant tiny seeds. The fruits are hard and woody but soften after a hard frost and become appealing to birds which then spread their seeds around. It quickly replaces native vegetation wherever its seeds have a chance to grow. Once established, removing or controlling Callery or Bradford Pear can be challenging.

Do not buy any cultivars of Pyrus calleryana because they may cross-pollinate and spread in the wild. The Bradford / Callery Pear story is a perfect example of why we should not buy supposed “sterile cultivars” of invasive species because we never know how they will behave until they have already escaped into the wild. Supposed sterile cultivars of Scotch Broom and Purple Loosestrife have also done a similar thing. Instead, research plants that are native to your area and plant those. Native plants tend to be naturally resistant to pathogens and insects, require little watering or feeding, and promote biodiversity and wildlife values. Also, there are always lovely native plants everywhere that are just as beautiful as invasive cultivars, if we just look for them we will find them.

Description of Pyrus calleryana

Leaves & Stems

Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  leaves closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear leaves closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  mature trunk closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear mature trunk closeup

The Callery Pear is a deciduous tree that can grow 5 – 20 m tall and has a trunk that is up to 0.6m in diameter. The trunk, however, often splits into multiple branches that tend to break easily in storms damaging the tree and shortening its usefulness as a landscape tree. Its branches are reddish-brown when young and become grayish-brown with age with vertical grooves in the older bark.

Pyrus calleryana simple leaves are arranged alternately on the stem. They are 4 – 9 cm long and are on 2 – 4.5 cm long petioles. Leaf blades are ovate, broadly ovate or oblonglanceolate. The surface is shiny green glabrous (hairless) with undulate (wavy) and slightly toothed margins. In fall the leaves turn yellow, orange, and red before falling off for the winter.

Leaf shape can be variable and these indicate the different varieties of Pyrus calleryana. For the purpose of invasive species removal or control, identification to the species level alone is sufficient. There will always be variations in morphology because the wild species are all hybrids of various cultivars and as such will generally exhibit intermediate characteristics between its two parent varieties.

Flowers & Fruits

Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  flowers closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear flowers closeup

Callery Pear flowers in April and May just before the leaves appear. The flowers are malodorous smelling somewhat of rotten fish. Flowers are 2.5 cm wide with 5 white obovate petals 6 – 7 (–13) mm long and × 6 – 7 (–13) mm wide.

Pyrus calleryana has numerous stamens with white filaments and topped with reddish or brownish anthers. Its ovaries are 2 – 3 (–4)-locular and they are topped with 2 or 3 styles.

Fruits are small pomes (like an apple), around 1 cm in diameter and globular (round) in shape. They are green when young in late spring and summer but turn brown when ripe in the fall and winter. They contain numerous cyanide-laced seeds inside.

Similar Species Callery Pear is Frequently Confused With

There are numerous species, mostly in the Pyrus (pear) and Prunus (plum and cherry) genera that Pyrus calleryana could be confused with as well as some other genera. All genera it can be confused with are in the Rosaceae or Rose family. Sometimes people confuse it with Populus species as well, but the appearance of the flowers in the spring will easily distinguish it from those.

  • Pyrus communis – the Common Pear has very similar flowers and leaves but its mature bark has horizontal and vertical grooves in it making it more of a checkerboard-like pattern than the vertical striations of Pyrus communis. Its leaves are usually smooth-margined rather than undulate. Also, the fruits grow much, much larger, are pear-shaped and edible.
  • Crataegus spp – there are multiple Crataegus species in its range in North America that, like many Rosaceae, have very similar flowers. However, Crataegus species always have variously lobed leaves compared to the simple unlobed leaves of Pyrus calleryana.
  • Prunus avium – the Wild Cherry has a similar range, similar leaves and flowers. Its bark is smoother and shinier, lacking any longitudinal or horizontal grooving. The smooth bark does, however, possess numerous horizontal lenticels (slightly raised striations). Its fruits are also larger and of varying shades of red or sometimes yellow when ripe. The fruits have a single pit and are edible.
  • Prunus mahaleb – the St. Lucia Cherry or American Black Cherry has a similar range, leaves and flowers as well. However, it never grows to more than a large shrub up to 5 m tall. Its bark lacks the grooves of Pyrus calleryana and it has horizontal striations. Its bitter fruits are also black when ripe and possess a single pit.
  • Prunus mexicana – the Mexican Plum has a similar range, leaves and flowers as well. However, its filaments on its many stamens are often pink, the flowers are often pinkish-white, and its fruits are larger, plum-like and pinkish to purple when ripe rather than brown.
  • Prunus cerasifera – the Myrobalan Plum or Plum-Cherry has similar flowers, leaves and range. However, its flowers are either white or pink and the anthers are typically yellow rather than reddish or brownish. The fruits are yellow to reddish in color when ripe and are edible and larger, to 2-3 cm in diameter.
  • Prunus serotina – the Capulin or Black Cherry has a similar range, leaves and flowers too but the flowers grow in elongated racemes instead of umbels. Also, its bark is more smooth and covered with horizontal striations. The somewhat bitter fruits are a bit larger and are reddish-black to black in color with a single pit as opposed to brown with multiple seeds.
  • Viburnum prunifolium – this Rosaceae member has similar leaves and range as Pyrus communis. However, its flowers are much smaller, to 0.9 cm in diameter, they only have 5 stamens, and they are arranged in tighter umbels with more flowers.

Native Distribution of Pyrus calleryana

The Callery Pear is native to Asia in China, Japan, Korea, Taiwan and Vietnam.

Habitat Types Where Bradford Pear is Found

Callery Pear can be found growing in empty lots, mixed forests, forest edges, thickets and plains. It can grow from 0 – 800 m in elevation. It prefers full sun but can tolerate part shade. Pyrus calleryana does not grow in full shade.

Pyrus calleryana is tolerant of a very wide range of soil types and pH. It easily tolerates the poor soils and polluted conditions of living in urban environments. It can grow in poor and rich soil alike. Callery Pear tolerates a range of soil conditions and will tolerate temporarily water-logged soils and temporary droughts. However, it will not survive extended periods of flooding or extended periods of drought.

Human Uses of Bradford Pear

Callery Pear Pyrus calleryana as Ornamental or Tools

The Bradford Pear was widely planted in the USA in the 1960s and 1970s as a fast-growing and low-maintenance landscape tree. As a landscape tree, it produces abundant white flowers in spring and has red foliage in the fall making it a desirable ornamental despite the malodorous flowers. Callery Pear is often used as a rootstock to graft fruit cultivars onto.

Callery Pear wood, like all Pyrus wood, is very fine-textured and sometimes used for making musical instruments, veneer, woodcuts, or other fine wooden products.

Distribution of Pyrus calleryana in North America

The species was first brought to North America in 1909. It was later widely planted in the 1960s and 1970s in the USA.

In Canada, Pyrus calleryana has not yet been recorded on Canadensys. However, there have been reports on iNaturalist in southern Ontario, Nova Scotia and possibly in southern BC. It is not clear if those are all planted or wild specimens. Given that it is invasive just south of the border in these locations it seems likely that it may start spreading more into Canada soon.

In the USA, Callery Pear has been introduced in Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Virginia, Delaware, Washington DC, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, and Massachusetts. On iNaturalist it is also reported in Colorado and all along the west coast but most of these may be intentional plantings of cultivars that may or may not yet have escaped into the wild.

In Mexico Pyrus calleryana so far has only been reported in Tamaulipas. Given its close proximity to the northern Mexican border on the US side, it is likely that it will spread more in the near future.

How Callery Pear Spreads

Callery Pear is primarily spread through long-distance by deliberate human introductions as garden and landscape ornamentals. While the Bradford Pear itself is infertile it can cross-pollinate with other cultivars of Pyrus calleryana and the Asian Pear Pyrus betulifolia which can then produce fertile seeds and spread in the wild. Also, fertile varieties are often used as the rootstock when grafting. If the infertile crown of the tree is damaged sometimes the fertile rootstock will then grow and produce fertile fruits.

Short-distance dispersal occurs primarily through birds and humans. The hard fruits become soft after a frost and are a popular winter food source for winter birds in North America. The birds eat the winter fruits and spread the abundant fertile seeds in their feces. Even without fruits Callery Pear also reproduces short distances vegetatively through suckers.

Humans can also spread the seeds short distances unintentionally on their shoes or clothes. Often the disposal of unwanted trees or branches removed from pruning while in fruit results in infestations from yard waste piles when they are not burned or properly disposed of.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Callery Pear often forms dense patches in abandoned fields, empty lots, disturbed areas and on roadsides. It can invade any riparian area, open mixed forests, meadows, thickets, mountain slopes and anywhere else its fertile seeds land and grow. Since it is tolerant of such a wide range of soil conditions this means that many habitats are at risk.

It generally will not invade dense forests, particularly coniferous ones. Also, it typically does not invade permanent wetlands except where drier conditions exist. It does not tolerate severe drought so will not invade desert areas.

Impacts of Invasion by Pyrus calleryana

Pyrus calleryana often creates dense near monoculture stands, particularly in disturbed areas, roadsides and old fields. It can also gain a significant foothold in open mixed forests. They out-compete the native vegetation and significantly reduce the biodiversity in the area upon infestation. Once a dense stand is created it can be difficult to remove.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Birds enjoy Callery Pears abundant fruits throughout the winter, including many native birds. However, the birds are the primary dispersal method and would likely have eaten native fruits left on trees that were displaced by the Callery Pear.

Methods to Remove Bradford or Callery Pear

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Pyrus calleryana cultivars. Even though Bradford Pear themselves may be infertile they can cross-pollinate with other cultivars and escape into the wild. Do not plant it in your yard. Instead, research native species to your region. Native species require little or no maintenance, are very beautiful and provide wildlife and biodiversity values.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Inform them that though supposedly infertile they are still able to cross-pollinate with other cultivars and they are spreading in the wild. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Physical Control of Bradford or Callery Pear

Once already established physical control is always the most effective means to remove Callery Pear. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but it causes the least amount of environmental damage.

The best time to remove Callery Pear is in the early spring either before or during flowering but before the plant sets fruit to avoid dispersing the seeds around.

Physical methods to remove Callery Pear depend on the size. Young seedlings or trees can simply be pulled out. When the ground is moist it makes removal easy as the roots cling less tightly to the soil when it is moist. Young trees can be pulled out with a weed-puller like the one shown in the affiliate ads below.

Mature trees on the other hand will need to be cut down and then the root pulled out by digging it with a shovel or machine, depending on the size. If it is too difficult to remove the root then you can deal with it one of three ways. First, you can solarize the stump with a plastic tarp by laying the tarp over the stump and weighing it down with rocks. Leave it like that at least until the following year. The second method is to return to the site every year and cut any sprouts that try to grow. Eventually, it will starve out the root. The final method is to chemically treat the stump with a herbicide.

Another method to control large trees in areas that make them difficult to remove is to ring the bark. Using a very sharp knife cut into the bark and remove a horizontal patch at least 5 cm wide all the way around the tree. Be sure to remove all bark in this patch down to the heartwood. This prevents the tree from transporting nutrients and water up and the products of photosynthesis down. This effectively starves the tree so that it will eventually die. It would still need monitoring however to be sure that no new sprouts try to start from its stump.

Disposal of the Trees Once Removed

If you have plants that have seeds on them they must either be burned or solarized. Do not dispose of them in yard waste if they have mature fruits. Large trees can also be cut into firewood. If you do not have a fireplace and are not allowed yard burning in your area then you will need to solarize them before disposal. To solarize put the trees under a thick black tarp and leave them in the full sun for a good 6 – 10 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. If there are no fruits on the trees you can dispose of them in yard waste.

Chemical Control of Bradford or Callery Pear

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. It is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Pyrus calleryana. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

However, the one suitable exception is the chemical treatment of large root stocks that you are unable to dig out mechanically or by hand. Ideally solarize or return to the area as part of an ongoing monitoring process. If you are unable to do either then chemical control of Callery Pear stumps can be a good alternative as you are only treating the stump to prevent re-sprouting. Research herbicides safe for use in your area and treat only the stump. If it is in a riparian area you may not be able to use this method due to proximity to water. Ideally you should still return the following year to be sure that nothing survived.

Biological Control of Callery Pear

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of plants and their seeds to actually control the Callery Pear on their own.

Unfortunately, Pyrus calleryana seems resistant to pests of all kinds. It is part of what made it desirable as a landscape plant. Also, finding suitable pathogens is tricky because if they could be found even testing them in the field could put commercial Pyrus and Prunus crops at risk. While insects and grazers alike will feed on the pear, particularly when young, they are ineffective as a control measure on their own. And once Pyrus calleryana reaches a significant size large herbivores will no longer be able to reach the foliage.

However, young stands of Callery Pears could be controlled with the use of goats which are known to eat anything. Provided that all the trees are young and can be reached by the goats they can be penned in. They will continuously feed on the young trees and over time will destroy any sprouts or seedlings that emerge. This is only suitable in dense young stands, however, as the goats will also eat any native species in their vicinity. The goats would need to remain in the patch for a couple of seasons.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting and ongoing monitoring.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In most cases of removal, the site would ideally be replanted with native species to prevent invasive species from re-establishing in the bare soil that was left behind. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon the removal of Callery Pear. You would need to research plants native to your area and study the site to determine which species would be most suitable. Ideally, gather seed stock from the surrounding area to ensure you have local ecotypes suitable to the area. If this is not possible then buy from a nursery specializing in native species to ensure that you are not planting cultivars of native species.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Callery Pear removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Callery Pear is aggressive and prolific and can out-compete planted vegetation. Yearly monitoring to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established can prevent this. Yearly monitoring in late spring followed by removal of all sprouts and seedlings will be sufficient for a monitoring program.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Pyrus calleryana https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrus_calleryana

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Hura polyandra Haba Habillo - Native Plant of the Week

Hura polyandra Haba tree's female flower and leaves
Hura polyandra Haba tree’s female flower and leaves

Habillo Hura polyandra – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

The first time I saw the large spines all over the trunk of this tree I was impressed. Hura polyandra is part of the Euphorbiaceae family and like many other members of this family the latex it secretes from its trunk and branches is highly toxic and can be fatal if ingested. Known locally as Haba or Habillo, depending on where you are, this tree is a formidable tree that demands respect by its very appearance.

I am not sure why exactly but I love poisonous, carnivorous, and otherwise weird and strange plants. And the more dangerous they look in terms of spines, thorns, etc the better. So when I saw this Haba tree and heard of its deadly latex, I fell in love. Then I saw the beautiful leaves, and later the amazing flowers and fruit, and I was even more in love. It is a magnificent tree!

Description of Habillo Hura polyandra

Stem & Leaves

Hura polyandra trunk with thorns
Hura polyandra trunk with thorns
Hura polyandra leaf showing toothed edges and prominent pinnate venation
Hura polyandra leaf showing toothed edges and prominent pinnate venation

Haba is a deciduous tree that grows up to 20 (-30) m tall and up to 45 (-70) cm wide with a straight trunk. The trunk is covered with numerous very sharp 0.6 – 1.4 cm long thorns originating from circular cushions on the trunk. It has a wide crown formed by thick horizontal branches and hanging twigs. The brownish-grey outer bark when young is smooth and covered densely with thorns but as it matures it has fewer thorns and the bark becomes more fissured and scaly. The inner bark is cream-colored and exudes abundant toxic latex.

Leaves are simple and arranged alternately on the branches hanging from long petioles 5 – 20 cm long. They are broadly ovate to orbicular in shape and measure 9 – 17 cm long and 9 – 16 cm wide. Leaf margins are toothed, the apex is thin-pointed acuminate while the base is cordate. Leaf margins have small white glands and there are 2 larger green glands at the base of each leaf. Leaves are bright lightish green or yellowish-green on both sides, but duller on the abaxial (lower) side. Leaf venation is pinnate and very prominent on the abaxial side.

Flowers & Fruits

Hura polyandra female flower
Hura polyandra female flower
Haba in fruit
Hura polyandra fruit

Habillo is a monoecious tree having separate male and female flowers that appear on the same plant. Usually it flowers from June to August but can flower at other times of the year, depending on the weather and timing of the wet season.

Male flowers are in axillary spikes 12 -16 cm long on a hollow axis. They are sessile and lack petals. They are attached to a 1 – 1.5 cm long on a narrow conical axis with numerous sessile white anthers, somewhat reminiscent of a conifer male cone.

Female flowers on the other hand are solitary, axillary on peduncles up 10 10 cm long. They also lack petals, are zygomorphic and are 6 – 7 cm long. It has a superior multilocular ovary topped with a thick fleshy circular style that is hollow at the top and it is divided into 15 – 19 conical fleshy long radially organized appendages (stigmas) that appear somewhat petal-like at first glance.

Its fruit is a large 5 – 10 cm diameter and 5 – 6 cm tall woody capsule that appears pumpkin-shaped. It is green when young but turns brown as it matures and becomes covered in numerous lenticels. When fully mature it breaks into 15 – 19 explosively dehiscent segments (carpels). They explode with such force they can be heard from far away and seeds are scattered tens of meters from the parent plant. Seeds are dark brown and discoid in shape.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Without foliage or flowers, people sometimes confuse Haba with the Ceiba genus of the Malvaceae family because of the large conical spines. However, the spines of Ceiba are much more geometrically, almost perfectly conical while Hura polyandra spines are a little smaller, still impressive, but smaller and less geometric. Then, as soon as either has leaves, flowers, or fruit they are very simple to differentiate because of the large wide ovate leaves of Hura polyandra as opposed to the compound leaves of the Ceiba genus. The flowers and fruits are also widely different since they come from unrelated families, but the leaves will be enough to tell them apart.

Other than that, within the Euphorbiaceae family, there is one other Hura species with similar leaves and fruit that it could be mistaken with. It also shares some of the same range being native to the Caribbean, Florida USA, Central America, and tropical South America with some scattered individuals in southern Mexico. They can be differentiated by Hura crepitans evergreen as opposed to deciduous leaves, and its much larger size to 60 m as opposed to 30 m and its much larger leaves up to 60 cm wide as opposed to 16 cm wide in Hura polyandra.

Distribution of Haba Habillo Hura polyandra

Haba or Habillo is only found in Mexico and northern Central America, it is not found in the USA or Canada.

In Mexico Hura polyandra is found in Sinaloa, Durango, Nayarit , Jalisco, Colima, Michoacan, Guerrero, Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, Veracruz, Chiapas, Tabasco, Quintana Roo, and possibly also in Morelos and Tamaulipas.

In Central America Haba or Habillo is found in Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, and Costa Rica.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Habillo, Haba

Hura polyandra grows in dry, deciduous forests in regions with long dry seasons and periods of drought. It grows in full sun and part shade. Haba tolerates thin, rocky soils common in dry forests. It grows from low to middle elevations up to 1200 m above sea level.

Growing Haba in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They also provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

If you live in a warm southern climate Habillo will be very easy to grow. Starting trees from seed can be a tedious process however as it takes several years for them to get to a size where they can be transplanted in your garden. So far, likely due to toxicity, this plant is not seen for sale by nurseries. You could wildcraft some seeds, following good Ethical Wildcrafting principles of course. And then start the seeds and plant the tree once it is large enough.

It can be planted in poor soil in full sun, but amend the soil with some organic compost and also feed it a thin layer of top-dressing of compost to help retain moisture and provide food during its establishment phase. Once established it will require no further maintenance. It is a lovely tree with interesting spines, gorgeous leaves, unique flowers and fruits. A great addition to any garden. Just be sure to keep young children away from it.

Wildlife Values of Habillo

No information on wildlife values could be found. Personally, I have seen birds roosting in trees but I have never seen nesting. This may be because the trees I saw were all fairly young. Due to its toxicity, nothing is known to eat the leaves, seeds, flowers, or fruits.

Status of Hura polyandra

In Mexico Hura polyandra is considered Least Concern according to the IUCN who last assessed it in 2018. Its population based on the number of mature individuals is considered stable.

Haba or Habillo is not found in either USA or Canada.

Traditional or Other Uses of Habillo

Hura polyandra Medicinal Uses

Despite its toxic nature Hura polyandra is occasionally used medicinally. The seeds possess violent purgative properties. Leaves are used for various gastrointestinal complaints including stomach pain, constipation, and as a purgative. It used to also be commonly used to expel intestinal parasites. Due to its toxic nature that has resulted in numerous deaths the medicinal use of Hura polyandra is not recommended.

Habillo as an Ornamental or Tools

It is sometimes used as a living fence to denote property boundaries and is also used as an ornamental tree due to its beautiful leaves and interesting thorns when in the dry season. It is occasionally used as a street tree in some locations but its toxicity prevents its widespread use due to concerns of poisonings.

The latex is sometimes used to stun fish to facilitate their capture. Occasionally the seeds are fed to noxious animals to kill them.

The wood is sometimes used in carpentry but not often due to complaints of irritation from the sawdust when it gets into the eyes and lungs.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Hura polyandra

Ethical wildcrafting of Hura polyandra is not recommended. It is a dangerously toxic tree and for this reason, should never be used medicinally under any circumstances. If you are wildcrafting for other purposes as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 leaves or fruits you see.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Wear gloves when harvesting any part of the plant as the latex alone on the skin can cause severe dermatological reactions in sensitive individuals. Picked fruits and leaves can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants. As with any toxic plant ALWAYS label “TOXIC IF INGESTED” on the harvesting container, on the drying rack, and on storage jars where processed goods are stored. This will prevent anyone from mistaking it for something else and accidentally ingesting it, causing severe illness and possibly death.

To dry the leaves simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Fruits can be dried in the sun and when almost dry place them in a clear fine-mesh cloth bag or a paper bag so that when they split open the toxic seeds are contained within. Do not dry in a food dehydrator due to their toxicity, you would not want to contaminate any food dried afterward.

Once dried the leaves and seeds can be stored in a jar. Label your jar with the species name and the date of harvest, I also usually add the location of harvest for my own reference. As with any toxic plant ALWAYS label “TOXIC IF INGESTED” on the jar to prevent accidental poisonings.

References and Resources

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/62003558/149008229

Maya Ethnobotony on Hura polyandra http://www.maya-ethnobotany.org/plants-of-the-mayan-civilization-flowers-lumber-trees-mexico-belize-guatemala-honduras/hura-polyandra-euphorbiaceae-medicinal-plants-maya-culture-tropical-forest-species.php

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Kudzu (Pueraria montana) is an Invasive Species of North America

Kudzu Pueraria montana plants in Vickery Creek Park, Roswell, Georgia
Kudzu Pueraria montana plants in Vickery Creek Park, Roswell, Georgia – They call this “The vine that ate the south”

Introduction

Kudzu is the collective term for several Pueraria species, members of the Fabaceae family. There are multiple species and varieties that can be difficult to distinguish and there is some debate as to whether we even should, or just lump them into one or two more variable species. Regardless of the species debate Pueraria species are highly aggressive and invasive weeds in most places where they are introduced. I have only seen them a few times myself when I was in the eastern USA but there they grow over top of everything, including the other aggressive native and non-native vines found there. Kudzu was encouraged to be planted by the US government in the 1940s for erosion control. Now millions of dollars are spent annually trying to control or remove Kudzu. It is often referred to as “the vine that ate the south”.

Description of Pueraria montana

Leaves & Stems of Kudzu

Kudzu Pueraria montana leaves closeup

Kudzu vines are part of the Pueraria genus in the Fabaceae (legume) family of the Fabales order of dicot flowering plants. The most common species in North America is Pueraria montana var lobata, but many people still refer to it as Pueraria montana. The distinctions are subtle, and the vines in North America of all Pueraria species are able to hybridize and distinctions between them become hazy. Once identified to the species level, for the sake of treating it as a noxious weed at least, further classification is rarely necessary and may be left to a professional. The characteristics described here define Pueraria montana in all its variants and subspecies forms.

Pueraria montana is a herbaceous perennial vine that will climb over anything when it is able or sprawl across the ground where there is nothing to climb. It has strong stems that are 0.6 – 2.5 cm in diameter and can be up to 30 m in length. They are incredibly fast-growing, up to 25 cm per day or 18 m in the growing season where the conditions are right.

Kudzu grows from enormous tubers that are up to 2 m long and 18 – 45 cm wide that can weigh up to 180 kg on mature individuals. Like many Fabaceae, it is capable of nitrogen fixation through its root nodules allowing it to grow in poor soil conditions.

Kudzu has pinnately arranged trifoliate leaves 8 – 20 cm long and 5 – 19 cm wide. Its leaflets are ovate to orbicular and are either entire or lobed. Leaflets are pale green above and paler to grayish-green below. They are usually hairy on the abaxial (under) side.

Flowers & Fruits of Kudzu

The fragrant pea-like flowers are reddish, purplish or bluish in color and frequently have yellow patches. Flowers grow from the leaf axils in elongated mostly unbranched inflorescences 10 – 25 cm long. Each flower is 2 – 2.5 cm wide.

The fruits are flattened oblong pods that are 4 – 13 cm long and 0.6 – 1.3 cm wide. They are green when young but turn brown with golden hairs when they mature. The flattened ovoid seeds are visible through the pods and are 4 – 5 mm long by 4 mm wide. They are reddish-brown when mature. While Kudzu is fully capable of pollinator-assisted sexual reproduction, it relies mostly on vegetative reproduction to spread.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

It is difficult to confuse Kudzu with other genera due to the large ovate trifoliate leaves. Sometimes people mistake English Ivy Hedera helix of the Araliaceae family or Poison Ivy Toxicodendron radicans of the Anacardiaceae Family because they have a similar range. However, neither of these are from the Fabaceae family and will have very different flowers. Also, their leaflets in general are much smaller and seldom to never ovate in shape. The only other vine of the pea family that it could be mistaken with is Amphicarpaea bracteata described below.

There are 2 Kudzu species in the Americas, and one of the species has a variant that is similar enough to simply be a variant and in most cases identification down to the variant level is unnecessary. Some people believe Pueraria montana var lobata is the one whose leaflets are lobed, but Pueraria montana itself may also have lobed leaves. Differences are subtle, and many hybridize, so we will leave Pueraria montana identification to the species level only here. The other species is often referred to as Tropical Kudzu and it has a much more limited distribution. It can be differentiated as follows:

  • Tropical Kudzu Pueraria phaseoloides – is only found in a handful of locations in the eastern USA and in Veracruz, Mexico. Its flowers are white and purple instead of red, blue or purple with yellow. Its leaflets tend to be much smaller, but can sometimes grow as large, and they tend to be triangular but occasionally may be ovate. And they can also hybridize with the other Pueraria species, further blurring the lines of identification.
  • American Hog-Peanut Amphicarpaea bracteata – native to the eastern USA and grows in similar habitats as Kudzu and has trifoliate leaves that look similar, but are usually much smaller. Its flowers are smaller and fewer and are usually white or light pink, never red, blue or purple. Its fruit is usually much smaller and is never golden-hairy.

Native Distribution of Pueraria montana

Pueraria montana is native to East Asia, southeast Asia and some Pacific Islands. It is common in China and Japan.

Habitat Types Where Kudzu is Found

Kudzu can grow in most habitats including forests, riparian areas, roads, fields, along fence rows, and any abandoned lots, buildings, waste areas etc. It is often seen hanging off of trees it has killed, telephone poles, abandoned buildings, vehicles, etc. In China it is often seen on road embankments and in mountains where the land cannot be cultivated.

Kudzu is an opportunistic vine that grows in almost any soil type excluding very wet soils or those with high pH. It can easily grow in nutrient-poor sandy or clayey soils though it prefers well-drained loam.

Human Uses of Kudzu

Kudzu as Food

The large tubers of Kudzu are frequently eaten as a starchy root vegetable. Kudzu leaves, shoots and flowers are often steamed or pickled and eaten as a vegetable.

Kudzu vines are often used as a nutritious forage for livestock.

Kudzu as Medicine

Kudzu root, flower, and leaf have all been used to make medicines, especially in China since at least 200 BC. It is used to treat a variety of ailments including heart and circulatory problems, high blood pressure, chest pain, sinus infections, colds, hay fever, flu and skin problems including allergies, itchiness and psoriasis. It is also sometimes used to treat menopause, muscle pains, measles, dysentery, gastritis, fever, diarrhea, stiff neck, polio, encephalitis, migraine, diabetes and traumatic injury.

Kudzu is a common treatment for hangovers from too much alcohol and has been used in China and Japan for this since 600 AD. It is still widely used today to reduce the symptoms of hangovers including headaches, upset stomach, vomiting, and dizziness.

Kudzu as Ornamental

Kudzu is often used as a garden ornamental. It is sometimes also used to stabilize slopes. Due to its noxious nature, this is done less often now, but still occasionally happens.

Distribution of Pueraria spp in North America

Kudzu was first brought to the USA from Japan at the Japanese pavilion in the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. It was extensively planted in the US in the 1930s and 1940s to control erosion. While multiple species have been introduced and have spread the most abundant species in North America is Pueraria montana var lobata.

In Canada, Pueraria montana has so far only been recorded in Ontario and was only discovered in 2009. Given that it is in Washington state just south of the British Columbia, Canada border it is likely only a matter of time before it appears in British Columbia.

In the USA, Kudzu is found in Washington, Oregon, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Washington DC, West Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Maine. It is also found in Hawaii, the Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico.

In Mexico Pueraria spp so far has been reported in Pueblo, and possibly in Oaxaca, Guerrero, Nayarit, Jalisco and Veracruz but the identifications could not be confirmed without flowers.

Kudzu has now been introduced on every continent except Antarctica.

How Kudzu Spreads

It is primarily spread through long distance by deliberate human introductions as a garden ornamental or landscape plant. It can be ordered online or purchased in local garden nurseries in some states. It is regulated as a pest in Canada and more difficult to purchase, though online sales are seldom regulated.

Seed dispersal is responsible for a small fraction of its spread. Seeds transported in soil will result in some short distance dispersal. However, short distance dispersal occurs mostly through vegetative reproduction as it is capable of rooting from its stem anywhere it touches soil of any quality. It can grow substantially in subtropical areas, up to 18 m in a single growing season. Yard debris piles where careless discarding of vines removed from yards is a significant source of introduction into the wild as is escaping from the yard itself to adjacent land.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Any open forest, forest edge, field, abandoned lot, riparian area, etc is at risk of invasion by Kudzu, particularly if they are located next to a source of Kudzu. Because Kudzu primarily reproduces by vegetative spread this slows the rate of invasion quite significantly in terms of distance. In local areas, however, it can rapidly overtake everything.

Kudzu so far has spread widely throughout eastern USA but it will likely spread more north into southern Canada, though so far its range is limited to southern Ontario. Southern Quebec and the Atlantic Provinces are also at risk. It will not invade wetlands or deserts as it cannot tolerate permanently wet soils or extended periods of drought. It can handle drought, however, as long as they are not too severe. It may not invade much of the central North America due to harsher winters. However, with climate change that is unpredictable.

There is still a lot of habitat suitable for it particularly on the west coast of North America including all of the western USA as well as British Columbia, Canada, and parts of Mexico. So far early detection has controlled its spread in these regions.

Impacts of Invasion

Kudzu is a large and aggressive vine that grows over all other vegetation it encounters smothering it and killing it creating monocultures. Even trees are eventually smothered and suffer from loss of photosynthetic capacity until eventually they die. Kudzu, therefore, results in dramatic losses of biodiversity in the area of infestation, negatively affecting native vegetation as well as wildlife that would otherwise feed, nest, or grow on the native plant species it displaces. Once introduced it is notoriously difficult to control.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Kudzu has often been used to stabilize slopes and does a good job of it. Also, it fixes almost all of its nitrogen and because of the die-back of its leaves it contributes a lot of nitrogen to the soil. After Kudzu is removed, providing you are successful in removing it, the soil is often richer as a result. However, the fact that it smothers and kills all other plant life growing in its vicinity outweighs its benefit as a soil stabilizer and enricher.

Kudzu growing over and smothering all vegetation in its path, Piedmont Park, Georgia, Photo from Wikipedia see credits below
Kudzu growing over and smothering all vegetation in its path, Piedmont Park, Georgia, Photo from Wikipedia see credits below.

Methods to Remove Kudzu

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in some local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Kudzu plants or roots and never plant them in your yard. It is illegal to purchase in many states and provinces. However, online sales are rarely properly regulated.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Once established in an area Kudzu is notoriously difficult to eradicate. Its extremely fast growth and its ability to smother everything in its path combined with its rapid ability to produce roots at any node which touches the soil all makes it difficult to control. Intensive ongoing effort and an integrated management approach are required in order to control or remove Kudzu infestations.

Physical Control of Kudzu

Once already established physical control is very challenging. Physical control of Kudzu is labor-intensive and time-consuming but will cause far less environmental damage than chemical control.

Since Kudzu spreads mostly vegetatively it can be removed in spring, summer, or fall without having to worry much about the seeds. If there are mature seeds on the plants clip them off into a paper bag to keep them contained in case they are fertile and can produce new plants.

The vines should be cut with hand cutters or loppers and pulled down from trees and structures they are climbing on. Then the tubers and all new roots will need to be carefully removed. Since it grows so quickly the biggest challenge in Kudzu removal is that every root crown must be destroyed or the population will recover. Physical removal must be part of an integrated management approach with continuous ongoing monitoring in order to be successful. The area will need to be revisited multiple times the first year to out compete its rapid growth and re-vegetation rate. Then the site will need to be revisited for 4 – 10 years afterward to ensure that every vine that tries to re-establish is destroyed. Even if a single root crown survives and is left to grow within just a few years it could take over the entire area once again.

Mechanical mowing of ground cover patches in flat open areas is a somewhat less labor-intensive approach that can be successful. Mowing repeatedly throughout the growing season for 3 – 5 years in a row will starve out the roots. Eventually, the plants will die without having above-ground material to photosynthesize in order to keep the roots alive.

Prescribed burning can be used in early spring before fire season if your area allows it. This will kill small kudzu plants and sever the climbing stems that are in the trees, poles, etc. Burning may not be effective for larger plants with intensive root systems as the fire may not ever get hot enough. Also, fire alone will not work. It will need to be followed up with physical removal and of course ongoing monitoring.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

Plants including roots, stems and seeds all must be either burned or solarized before disposal to prevent new populations from beginning at the disposal site. Burning is an effective method to destroy the plant matter, but it is not allowed in some areas or in certain seasons. In this case, solarize them instead. To solarize put the vines into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 6 – 8 weeks at least to be sure that none of the roots, stems or seeds are no longer viable. Do not try to solarize them on the ground under a tarp. Due to its extremely fast growth rate and rapid rooting at nodes the vines may be able to grow out from under the tarp and start new plants before the ones under the tarp are properly destroyed.

Once solarized the vines can be disposed of at your local garbage dump. Be sure to still inform them that they are an invasive species so that they can be disposed of accordingly, just in case there are still viable stems.

Chemical Control of Kudzu

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Kudzu. And due to the highly aggressive nature, large tuberous roots, and extremely fast growth rate of Kudzu multiple applications are always needed in a single growing season. If even a single root crown survives the treatment and goes undetected within a few years the Kudzu will again take over the area. Therefore applications must continue for 4 – 10 years after the initial treatment. If chemical control alone is used there will be an enormous amount of toxic chemicals being dumped into the environment, making it less suitable for native species.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Kudzu

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy 100% of the vines, their stems, their roots, and their seeds in order to remove Kudzu on its own.

However, with Kudzu biological control is possibly going to be the most effective means with the least amount of effort due to its rapid growth rate and difficulty controlling it by other means. Particularly with large infestations or those near a large source of Kudzu, biological control may be the most desirable. It still of course must be done as part of an integrated management approach that uses physical removal of those unaffected by the biological treatment along with essential ongoing monitoring for multiple years.

Following is a list of biological control methods that have been used in North America in an attempt to help reduce the population densities of Pueraria montana and varieties.

Pathogens both native and non-native to North America have been isolated from Kudzu populations.

  • Pseudomonas syringae pv. phaseolicola a plant pathogen native to North America that causes halo blight of legume plants was tested to control Kudzu. It caused high mortality on young and old growth. However, it performed much less well under dry conditions in the field.
  • Myrothecium verrucaria is another native fungus that showed greater potential success in the field as it did not require such moist conditions. High mortality rates were observed in the field, and they even performed even better in the heat of summer. Since the application requires the use of a surfactant it keeps the risk of the fungus spreading beyond the application area minimal. However, the fungus did show high toxicity to mammals so extreme caution by professionals is required for application in the field.
  • Alternaria and Fusarium fungal species are currently being developed in the USA for potential biological control of Kudzu and other weeds.

Heavy grazing by livestock such as by cows, pigs, horses or goats can also be used to remove Kudzu as part of an integrated management approach. This would only work in groundcover patches though as the animals cannot eat the vines in the trees or on buildings. The animals would need to be fenced in the Kudzu patch for long periods of time to be effective at controlling Kudzu on their own.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In all cases of removal, the site should be planted after the Kudzu is removed. This cannot be done immediately upon the first removal, however, due to the extreme growth rate of Kudzu. But replanting should be commenced in years 2 – 4, depending on the patch dynamics. Replanting with aggressive native species will help keep the Kudzu at bay. However, ongoing monitoring to remove any new seedlings or sprouts of Kudzu will still need to be intensely carried out. If a single root crown survives it will still grow over and smother any vegetation that is planted.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Kudzu removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Monitoring is important for all invasive species removal, but perhaps Kudzu most of all. The extreme growth and survival rate of stems and roots requires extreme diligence in monitoring. Repeated monitoring for the first couple of years should be carried out on a monthly basis during the growing season to remove any new growth. Then yearly monitoring programs should be put in place for a minimum of 4 years after the initial removal. Monthly monitoring can be reduced to every couple of months in years 2 and on, presuming there are few new individuals being found. An aggressive monitoring program is the only thing that will ensure the success of any biological, physical, or chemical removal or control of Kudzu.

References and Resources

CABI on Pueraria montana https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/45903 ** CABI now charges for its data sheets!

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Kudzu Photo Smothering Trees in Georgia by Scott Ehardt, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Kudzu_on_trees_in_Atlanta,_Georgia.jpg

RxList.com for Medicinal Uses of Kudzu https://www.rxlist.com/kudzu/supplements.htm

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Calycanthus floridus Carolina Allspice Sweetshrub - Native Species of the Week

Calycanthus floridus Sweetbush or Carolina Allspice flowers and leaves
Calycanthus floridus Sweetbush or Carolina Allspice flowers and leaves

Eastern Sweetshrub Carolina Allspice Calycanthus floridus – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

The first time I saw Carolina Allspice or Eastern Sweetshrub blooming in the forest I was thrilled. Its unique burgundy-red flowers intrigued me and I knew it was special. Calycanthus floridus is part of the Calycanthaceae family in the Laurales order of flowering plants. Laurales are neither monocots nor dicots. Instead, Laurales are one of the earliest lineages of angiosperms that evolved, part of the Magnoliids. They are a diverse clade that share some features with monocots, dicots, and even gymnosperms the naked seed plants (conifer trees etc). If you just take a look at its tepals and numerous free carpels, you can tell it is different from most other typical flowering plants. And the added bonus is that the entire plant has an amazing aroma.

Description of Eastern Sweetshrub or Carolina Allspice

Stem & Leaves

Calycanthus floridus is a deciduous shrub of the Calycanthaceae family of the Laurales order of Basal Angiosperms. It is an understorey shrub that grows to 3.5 m tall and up to 3 m wide with multiple erect branches. Its bark is reddish-brown when young then turns a light brown color with age. The bark develops numerous small horizontal lenticels. The bark itself, like the rest of the plant, is aromatic. It frequently propagates vegetatively via root suckers to produce small clonal patches of the same plant. However, it is considered non-invasive.

The leaves are arranged oppositely in pairs along the stems. They are elliptic, oblong or ovate and 5 – 15 cm long by 2 – 6 cm wide. The base of the leaves are acute to truncate. The apex of the leaves may be acute, acuminate or blunt. Margins are smooth without any teeth or lobes. The adaxial (upper) surface is green or dark green. Its abaxial surface is green or glaucous and may be glabrous or pubescent. The leaves are on 3 – 10 mm long petioles (leaf stalks) that are pubescent or glabrous. Its lateral buds are partly hidden by the base of the petioles. The leaves are deciduous and turn a golden-yellow in the fall before they drop off for the winter.

Flowers & Fruits

Calycanthus floridus flower closeup, from Marietta, Georgia, USA
Calycanthus floridus flower closeup, from Marietta, Georgia, USA

The aromatic flowers appear from April to July depending on latitude, aspect etc. They are solitary, reddish-brown, reddish-purple or burgundy in color. It possesses virtually identical-looking tepals rather than separate sepals and petals, similar to the monocots. It has 7 – 20 tepals that are oblongelliptic to obovatelanceolate. They are 20 – 40 mm long and 3 – 8 mm wide with an acute apex. The hypanthium (base or cup of the flower) is 20 – 60 mm in diameter by 10 – 30 mm high at maturity and may be cylindrical, ellipsoid, pyriform or globose when mature.

It has 10 – 20 oblong stamens. There are numerous free carpels in the center.

Its fruit is a green leathery and wrinkled urn-shaped indehiscent pseudocarp from an accessory receptacle. It is up to 8 cm long and 5 cm wide by the time it matures and turns brown in the fall. The fruit persists on the shrub all winter. Inside the fruit are numerous 1 seeded brown achenes (seeds) that are each 10 mm long by 5 mm wide.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

The unique flowers and aroma of this plant from the unique Calycanthaceae family make it hard to confuse with others. However, there is another species in the same genus and another aromatic shrub with unique red flowers in the same region that it could be confused with.

  • Calycanthus occidentalis – this is the Western Sweetshrub native to the western USA. However, it is found only sporadically in the east where it was likely introduced. It is a taller shrub that grows to 4 m and its lateral buds are more exposed rather than hidden by the petiole. Its leaf bases are rounded to cordate rather than acute to truncate and its apex is rounded rather than blunt, acute or acuminate.
  • Illicium floridanum – Star Anise is an evergreen shrub of the Schisandraceae family that is native to the southeastern USA. It is also very aromatic and possesses somewhat similar flowers around the same size with similar colored tepals. However, it usually possesses more tepals, from 21 – 33. It also has more stamens anywhere from 25 – 50. It produces characteristic star-shaped fruits rather than urn-shaped ones. And it retains its leaves all winter.
  • Calycanthus hybrids – there are now several hybrids and cultivars grown in gardens throughout the USA but they generally are not found outside of cultivation. They also typically possess larger flowers with more tepals, and their tepals may vary more in color, depending on the cultivar.

Distribution of Eastern Sweetshrub Calycanthus floridus

Carolina Allspice is found only in the eastern USA. iNaturalist reported two locations in southern Ontario, Canada. However, both locations were on roads in residential areas so they were likely planted there rather than occurring naturally.

In the USA, Eastern Sweetshrub is found in Missouri, Illinois, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky, Virginia, Washington DC, West Virginia, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Delaware, New York, Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Habitat and Growing Conditions of Eastern Sweetshrub

Eastern Sweetshrub grows in full sun to full shade. It is common in open, mixed, and deciduous forests where it gets enough light to grow as an understory shrub. In shadier areas it will still grow but is generally taller with less width and less flowering. It also grows at forest edges and openings and on moist hillsides.

Carolina Allspice prefers moderate soil moisture levels and loamy soil. However, it will tolerate wet and clayey soil types and can even tolerate some temporary flooding. It does less well in sandy soils prone to drought but will occasionally grow there. It grows well in mildly acidic soils. Carolina Allspice will tolerate alkaline soils but will not tolerate saline soil conditions.

Growing Calycanthus floridus in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

Calycanthus floridus is a wonderful addition to your eastern garden. It is a beautiful sweet-smelling shrub with gorgeous flowers. Since it is already used as a landscape plant it should be relatively easy for you to find shrubs to plant in your yard rather than having to start them from seed. Since they will grow from seed and also spread vegetatively you could also harvest some from the wild for propagation using ethical wildcrafting principles of course. While the cultivars are lovely so are the wild varieties and they provide added biodiversity values. Or you can always grow both!

Eastern Sweetshrub plants are super easy to grow. Plant your shrubs in any well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. While they do tolerate most soil conditions they prefer a rich loam. If grown in the shade it will grow taller and a bit lankier. If you live in a particularly hot climate they will benefit from a little afternoon shade. In either case prune immediately after flowering if you want it to maintain its compact shape. Or you can let it grow to its conditions, depending on where you plant it.

Maintenance

Pruning will keep its shape if that is what you want. Also, it tends to produce root suckers so if you don’t want it to naturalize just remove the suckers as they grow. They do not grow very rapidly so once every year or two is more than sufficient maintenance.

Mulch annually every early spring with organic compost to feed it to encourage more blossoms.

Otherwise, it is a hearty plant that tolerates cold, heat, some seasonal flooding, moderate drought and even mild fires. It is virtually insect and disease-free. Deer and rabbits seldom graze on its aromatic foliage. It is a very low-maintenance and highly resistant plant that also happens to be beautiful!

Wildlife Values of Carolina Allspice

Carolina Allspice attracts numerous pollinators including bees and lots of butterflies. Beetles are also attracted to the flowers. It is a host plant for native butterflies.

Status of Calycanthus floridus

Carolina Allspice is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In the USA Calycanthus floridus is considered locally Secure S5 only in North Carolina. It is considered Vulnerable S3 just north of North Carolina in West Virginia. Sweetbush is considered Imperiled S2 in Kentucky and Florida. In Virginia it is considered Critically Imperiled S1. It is presumed to be extirpated (locally extinct) in Ohio, though I did not find information as to whether or not it was actually native there. USDA lists it as being introduced in the northern states of Illinois, Maryland, Delaware, Washington DC, Pennsylvania, and New York. In all other states where it is found it is as yet unranked.

Eastern Sweetshrub is not found in either Canada or Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses of Eastern Sweetshrub or Carolina Allspice

Carolina Allspice as Food

The bark is fragrant and edible and is sometimes used as a substitute for cinnamon, which is where it gets the common name of Carolina Allspice from.

The petals of the flowers are sometimes used in tea. Caution is advised though as the plant contains alkaloids that could lead to heart convulsions in sensitive individuals so use in moderation.

Calycanthus floridus Medicinal Uses

The Cherokee people of the eastern US have used Calycanthus floridus in numerous medicinal applications. Resins from the bark were used on sores and wounds and used in an infusion for hives. It was frequently used as a dermatological aid for children in particular. A cold infusion of the bark was used as an eyewash for those who were losing their eyesight. A strong decoction of the roots makes a powerful emetic to induce vomiting and in milder forms it was used to treat urinary infections. An infusion of the bark was also used for urinary complaints. Occasionally all parts of the plants were used as in incense or perfume.

Herbalists today occasionally use it as an antispasmodic and disinfectant. It makes a powerful heart depressant, however, and should be used with caution.

Eastern Sweetshrub as an Ornamental

Due to its lovely fragrance and beautiful spring flowers, it is often used as an ornamental plant in gardens in borders, native plant gardens, butterfly gardens, etc. It is also occasionally used in cut flower arrangements, dried flowers and potpourri for its lovely fragrance.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Calycanthus floridus

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states. See above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for its lovely leaves and flowers and its non-invasive nature.

If you are harvesting Calycanthus floridus from the wild as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, leaves or plant suckers that you see. If harvesting the bark never ring the shrub as you will kill it. The best practice for harvesting bark from a shrub with plenty of branches is to harvest a single branch from a large, healthy specimen and scrape it entirely.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits, leaves, bark or roots can be placed in a basket, bowl or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day be sure to label the plant parts in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

To dry the leaves or flowers simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Bark can be scraped off the branch and then dried the same way as flowers or leaves. Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

Once dried the leaves, flowers, bark and roots can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of harvest for my own reference. The potency of medicines can vary with the location so I like to know where something came from in case I find it particularly potent or weak. Do not grind or crush any plant parts until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties. This renders them ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

North Carolina Extension Gardener on Calycathus floridus https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/calycanthus-floridus/

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Calycanthus floridus https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calycanthus_floridus

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

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Reynoutria japonica (Japanese Knotweed) is Invasive in North America

Reynoutria japonica, Fallopia japonica, Polygonum cuspidatum Japanese Knotweed or False Bamboo in flower in Langdale, BC, Canada
Reynoutria japonica, Fallopia japonica, Polygonum cuspidatum Japanese Knotweed or False Bamboo in flower in Langdale, BC, Canada

Introduction

Reynoutria japonica, or its synonyms Fallopia japonica and Polygonum cuspidatum are commonly known as Japanese Knotweed. Sometimes it is called False Bamboo due to its superficial appearance to Bamboo though it is of a completely different and unrelated family. This was another one of my early discoveries of invasive species after Scotch Broom. On the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia where I grew up, False Bamboo infestations were particularly common along wet roadsides, riparian areas and wetlands. It is notoriously difficult to control Japanese Knotweed due to the vegetative reproduction that allows them to easily spread to nearby wild areas when left unchecked. I have seen firsthand the biodiversity loss that results when they invade a habitat. There are so many gorgeous native shrubs in North America, there is no need to risk planting this one in your yard. If you do, you may spend many years trying to get rid of it later.

Reynoutria japonica is on the IUCN’s list of the world’s most 100 invasive plants. There are two other plants in the same genus that look extremely similar, grow in the same habitats and ranges and can be equally invasive. For the most part, being able to distinguish the three species is not important since collectively all of the Reynoutria species in North America are invasive. That means that they should all be treated the same in terms of reporting infestations and implementing the control or removal of Japanese Knotweed species. This article discusses Reynoutria japonica but in the description section there are instructions on how to differentiate the species. There is one native species in the eastern part of North America that is sometimes misidentified. Please be sure that you have identified the plant as one of the Japanese Knotweed species before you remove it. It is also described below.

Description of False Bamboo Reynoutria japonica

Leaves & Stems of Reynoutria japonica

Reynoutria or Fallopia japonica is part of the Polygonaceae family in the Caryophyllales order of dicot angiosperms. It is a herbaceous perennial that dies back each fall and grows again every spring from its spreading rhizomes. Japanese Knotweed has a horizontal root system of rhizomes that can grow aggressively and spread 10 – 20 m away from the plant and up to 3 m deep. It then produces additional stems from its spreading rhizomes creating clonal colonies. Its primary mode of reproduction is this vegetative spreading of its rhizomes, making it a very aggressive and rapid invader.

Its purplish-green stems are slightly woody but hollow and jointed, similar to bamboo. It grows to 2 – 3 m tall each year, though it may be shorter with thinner and more solid stems in areas where it gets mowed back periodically. The rapidly growing stems can grow up to 8 cm per day or 1 m in 3 weeks. This allows it to rapidly produce large bamboo-like clumps of stems.

Reynoutria japonica has alternate leaves arranged in a characteristic zigzag pattern. The leaves are ovate to triangular in outline with an acute apex and a truncated base. Leaves possess a long petiole with a pulvinus, a swelling at the base of the joint where the petiole attaches to the stem. False Bamboo leaves are from 7 – 15 cm long and 5 -12 cm wide. They are red when young but unroll into a green leaf with reddish veins that fade with age. Its margins are entire and not wavy or toothed.

Flowers & Fruits of Reynoutria japonica

Japanese Knotweed flowers in July and August producing 6 – 15 cm long erect panicles. Each panicle consists of numerous small white-green flowers near the end of the stems and in the leaf axils. It is a dioecious plant meaning that it produces viable male and female flowers on separate plants and requires both sexes to cross-pollinate to produce viable seeds. Upon superficial examination, however, the flowers will look bisexual because the male and female flowers both have vestigial parts of the opposite sex. Vestigial parts are evolutionary remnants of the sex organs that still grow in the flower but are no longer functional. However, Reynoutria japonica spreads much more often by its aggressive rhizomes and relies far less on the sexual reproduction of viable seeds.

It produces fruits of winged seeds that are triangular, shiny, and very small, suitable for both wind and water dispersal.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

There are multiple plants that are often mistaken for False Bamboo including docks, lilacs, dogwoods and others based on the appearance of the leaves. To make identification much more simple, if you are uncertain at all, wait for flowering. All those other species have different flowers and can easily be differentiated at that time.

In flowering, there are four species that Reynoutria japonica is often confused with. Two are from the same genus, look very similar, grow in the same habitats, are equally as invasive and are often called by the same common name. For the purpose of dealing with them as an invasive species all Reynoutria in North America is invasive and can be treated accordingly. The other two species are related being in the same family, but one is native and one is not. They can all be differentiated as follows:

  • Reynoutria × bohemica is a hybrid species formed from a cross between Reynoutria sachalinensis and Reynoutria japonica. It is found in much the same range in North America. They look very similar with the hybrid having features that are intermediate between its two parent species. The hybrid is often misidentified as Reynoutria japonica but can be distinguished by the short pubescence on the veins on the abaxial (under) surface of young leaves in the spring. R. x bohemica hairs are unicellular, acute and less than 0.1 mm long. Hairs of R. sachalinensis are multicellular, twisted, acute to acuminate, and 0.2 – 0.6 mm long. Hairs on R. japonica are unicellular, blunt, and barely raised, giving the veins a scabrous appearance as opposed to hairy or pubescent.
  • Reynoutria sachalinensis sometimes called Giant Japanese Knotweed is also found in much the same range throughout North America and also looks very similar. They can be differentiated by its very large cordate (heart-shaped) leaves that grow 15 – 40 cm long and 10 – 28 cm wide with undulate (wavy creased) margins. It also grows to 4 m tall as opposed to 2 – 3 m tall.
  • Fallopia baldschuanica the Russian Vine is introduced in North America and so far has limited but scattered distribution here. It appears superficially similar but it is a climbing vine that does not possess the erect stems of Reynoutria spp. Its leaves are typically much more narrowly ovate than the broad ovate of Reynoutria japonica. Also, its flowers that also appear in panicle-like inflorescences are usually pink or pinkish instead of greenish-white.
  • Fallopia cilinodis is native to eastern North America. It is superficially similar but can be easily differentiated by its arrow-shaped sagittate leaves with a deep cordate base and reddish veins. It also has a scandent and sprawling habit as opposed to the erect shrub of the Reynoutria genus.

Native Distribution of Reynoutria japonica

Reynoutria japonica, Polygonatum cuspidatum or Fallopia japonica is originally native to the eastern Asian countries of Japan, Korea, China and Taiwan.

Habitat Types Where Japanese Knotweed is Found

Japanese Knotweed in its native environment prefers rich, moist soil types in wetland and riparian areas. It also grows in moist fields, meadows, hillsides, and forest edges.

It prefers full sun and while it can grow in shade, its growth and reproduction is reduced there. Due to its reduced growth in shade, it is never able to dominate in forest habitats. It has a wide tolerance to soil type, pH, and salinity. The roots can survive in temperatures down to -35 C so it is capable of invading warm and cool temperate zones alike.

Human Uses of Japanese Knotweed or False Bamboo

Japanese Knotweed used to be widely used as an easy-to-grow ornamental plant and still sometimes is used this way. It can be used as a hedge plant due to its rapid growth.

The young stems are eaten in spring and taste similar to rhubarb. To eat them peel the fibrous skin off and soak them in water for half a day before cooking them to make them less bitter.

Beekeepers use the plants for their abundant nectar to make honey.

Medicinal Uses of Reynoutria japonica

Japanese Knotweed is used in traditional Chinese and Japanese medicine to treat various disorders through the actions of resveratrol, a secondary metabolite produced by plants in response to disease or injury. The levels of resveratrol are highest in the roots of Reynoutria japonica and this is usually extracted at the end of the growing season. If you want to harvest root for medicine then harvest it in the fall and remember that when dealing with aggressive invasive plants like this one the rules of ethical wildcrafting do not apply. Harvest to your heart’s content.

Extracts are used to treat a number of ailments including as a diuretic, as a laxative, to treat flus, acute hepatitis and appendicitis and gynecological problems like menstrual irregularities. They are also used to treat injuries, infections, and poisonous snakebites. There is research being done into its possible anti-tumor activity.

Leaves can also be crushed and applied externally as a poultice to treat abscesses, cuts, burns and boils.

Distribution of Reynoutria japonica in North America

The species was first brought to North America in the late 1800s as an ornamental plant for gardens.

In Canada, Reynoutria japonica has been recorded in British Columbia, Manitoba, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland Island (but not Labrador).

In the USA, Japanese Knotweed is found in most of the continental USA as well as Alaska. The states where it has so far been reported include Washington, Oregon, California, Montana, Idaho, Utah, Colorado, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Michigan, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, Delaware, West Virginia, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine.

In Mexico Reynoutria japonica so far has only been confirmed in Oaxaca. It is possibly also present in Chihuahua, Nuevo Leon, Jalisco and Guanajuato.

Japanese Knotweed has been introduced to every continent except Antarctica.

How Japanese Knotweed Spreads

Japanese Knotweed is primarily spread through long distances by deliberate human introductions as garden ornamentals. It is still sold in garden stores and online despite widespread knowledge of its invasiveness.

Short distance dispersal occurs primarily through vegetative reproduction of its rapidly growing and spreading rhizomes. Short distance dispersal is also common in carelessly discarded “yard waste” piles which frequently are seen to sprout False Bamboo from both stem and rhizome fragments that were not properly solarized before disposal. See Physical Removal of Japanese Knotweed below on how to properly dispose of stems and rhizomes.

Transportation of seeds by wind, water, pets, livestock, humans etc can also be a source of spreading both long and short distances. However, by far most spread is from the aggressive vegetative reproduction of Reynoutria japonica.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

False Bamboo or Japanese Knotweed will easily invade any riparian areas, wetlands, roadsides, ditches and wet or moist forest edges it gains a foothold in. It is common in disturbed sites, empty lots and abandoned gardens. It is very common in waste areas, especially near yard waste piles.

Due to its preference for sun, it is not able to grow well in dense forests, though forest edges are at risk. It also seldom grows in arid and semi-arid areas unless in a riparian habitat.

Impacts of Invasion by False Bamboo

Japanese Knotweed forms dense thickets of bamboo-like vegetation that easily and aggressively out-competes native vegetation. This reduces biodiversity, wildlife values and causes a multitude of other negative impacts in wetland and riparian areas. The water carrying capacity of wetlands and riparian areas is often reduced in areas of False Bamboo infestation. The dense thickets reduce sunlight around them by 90% or more, shading out native plants and out-competing them for sunlight. Its thick mats of decaying vegetation it produces every fall when its abundant herbaceous stems and leaves die back build a thick mulch layer that also prevents other plants from growing with it.

Reduced plant and invertebrate densities are significant in established populations of Japanese Knotweed. Furthermore, native amphibian, bird, reptile and mammal populations are also much reduced in the dense stands of False Bamboo. It is also suspected that the aggressive roots of Japanese Knotweed are allelopathic meaning that they produce compounds that may alter soil chemistry and further negatively impact the growth of other nearby plant species.

Japanese Knotweed is capable of growing through cracks in cement, damaging sidewalks, driveways, roads, and house foundations. It can puncture its way through cement and asphalt 8 cm thick.

Japanese Knotweed roots are aggressive and strong but they are not as dense as those of native plants and they do not hold onto the soil nearly as well. As a result in riparian areas where Japanese Knotweed invades it can make the stream banks unstable and more vulnerable to erosion and flooding. This causes a loss of soil and space for vegetation, making the area further susceptible to future flooding and erosion.

Due to its impact on riparian areas False Bamboo also threatens salmon streams and stream reclamation projects.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Wild birds are known to eat the seeds and bees use the flowers for their abundant nectar.

Methods to Remove Japanese Knotweed

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Japanese Knotweed. Do not plant it in your yard. Plant native species instead that will require little to no maintenance once established, provide wildlife and biodiversity values and likely will not need to be ‘controlled’.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Once Japanese Knotweed is established it is one of the most notoriously difficult plants to eradicate. There are no methods known today that will remove Japanese Knotweed in the short term. Long term removal of Japanese Knotweed is labor-intensive no matter what the method used. And long term eradication is seldom successful due to the aggressive nature of Japanese Knotweed. Diligence and hard work, integrated management and rigorous ongoing monitoring is the only possible ways to remove Japanese Knotweed.

Physical Control of Japanese Knotweed

An old poster of Reynoutria japonica, Fallopia japonica, Polygonum cuspidatum Japanese Knotweed that I made years ago to raise awareness of its invasiveness
An old poster I made many years ago to help raise awareness of the invasiveness of Japanese Knotweed

Once already established physical control is notoriously difficult. While physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming it still usually causes the least amount of environmental damage. Physical control is particularly difficult with False Bamboo due to the way it spreads vegetatively through its rapidly spreading rhizomes that grow up to 20 m long and 3 m deep. This makes removal particularly challenging and many people still turn to chemical methods. All methods however require multiple treatments over multiple years so physical removal of Japanese Knotweed is the least environmentally damaging option.

Physical methods to remove Japanese Knotweed generally involve the repeated cutting of the above-ground stems throughout the growing season for multiple years in a row. Cut it first in the spring after it reaches 0.5 – 1 m tall and keep going back to cut it again each time it reaches this height. It is a rapid-growing plant that can grow 1 m tall in three weeks if the conditions are right so in spring and early summer this will require multiple visits. As the soil dries and it gets hotter later in the summer it will not grow as rapidly and cutting frequency can be reduced. This will eventually weaken the aggressive root system as the plant is unable to conduct photosynthesis to store energy in its roots for subsequent years’ growth. This is very time-consuming but it will eventually kill it after several years of treatment.

Another method some people have tried with smaller patches is the cut all the above-ground growth and then solarize the entire patch with a heavy black tarp. This works for small infestations where the tarps can extend far beyond the stems. This is because the rhizomes can grow up to 25 m so the plants will tend to regrow just outside the edges of the tarp. This can still be done, however, as you can simply keep returning to the spot to cut any growth attempting to start outside the tarped area, as described above for stem removal.

Where land is to be cleared the best method may be to dig up the entire patch to remove all the rhizomes. Use caution however as any piece of rhizome left can grow and start an entirely new infestation. Proper disposal is also an issue in this case as there will be large volumes of soil needing to be properly disposed of so that it does not create a new infestation. Bringing it to a garbage dump and informing them of its aggressive invasive nature is one option. Phone ahead to make sure they have the means to bury it immediately, and deep enough (more than 5 m) to ensure that it does not grow again.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

Stems and rhizomes should never simply be disposed of as they will rapidly grow and invade any site they are delivered to. They can be burned on the spot if there are open fires allowed in your area. Burning is usually a good option in spring before fire bans have begun.

In the summer, however, solarization may be the only option. Place stems and rhizomes either under a heavy thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 10 weeks to be sure that all roots, stems and seeds are no longer viable. Many people recommend shorter solarization periods but due to the differential heats achieved in garbage bags and under tarps I recommend solarizing for as long as possible. Even after solarization you should bring them to the garbage dump and inform them that it is an invasive species so that they can be disposed of appropriately.

Chemical Control of Japanese Knotweed

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Japanese Knotweed. And due to the aggressive nature and deep root system of Japanese Knotweed, multiple applications during the year and in subsequent years are always needed.

However, if it is a very large patch of Reynoutria japonica and physical removal is not a viable option sometimes chemical control of Japanese Knotweed may be necessary. If it is near a riparian area or wetland, however, chemical application cannot be used due to the proximity to water. In those cases, physical removal is the only viable option.

Chemicals registered for use vary from area to area so if you are considering this method please research what is legal to use in your area and take into consideration proximity to water.

Biological Control of Japanese Knotweed False Bamboo

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of the plants in order to be an effective control method. Results this high are rarely seen in the field. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective. Following is a list of biological control methods that have been used to help control Japanese Knotweed.

  • Aphalara itadori the Japanese knotweed psyllid insect feeds only on Japanese knotweed. It has been tested in the United Kingdom with some success.
  • Aphalara itadori leaf fleas that suck up the sap out of the plant have been recently released in Amsterdam. Results are not yet available.
  • Mycosphaerella leaf spot fungus is currently being researched as a mycoherbicide due to its effect on plants in Japan. Research, however, is still preliminary and no results are available for its use outside of Japan.
  • Goats are a great method to control Japanese Knotweed as they will feed on all the above-ground growth. If you have a small patch that you want to get rid of simply build a goat containment area around it and let the goats live there for several years. Eventually, the plants will cease to grow as the goats continually graze on all the above-ground growth. Some people recommend the use of pigs following the goats as the pigs will root out and eat the rhizomes. However, considering that the rhizomes can grow to 3 m below ground it is unlikely that the pigs will be able to deal with all the roots. Again, leaving them there for several years to keep removing any above-ground growth that appears can be a successful method.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management recognizes the fact that when dealing with invasive species one method alone is almost never successful, especially in the long term.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

After removing any native species from an area replanting with native species is important to prevent the area from becoming reinfested with that or another invasive species. This is somewhat complicated in the case of Japanese Knotweed removal. This is due to the aggressive nature of the deep and extensive rhizomes which are its primary method of reproduction and spread. If the area was heavily infested and replanted immediately it will seldom be successful as the new growth of Japanese Knotweed from its extensive rhizomes will quickly take over. Replanting of native species should instead be planned for the following year(s) once the patch truly seems under control.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Japanese Knotweed removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. More so for Japanese Knotweed removal than almost any other invasive species. Japanese Knotweed is one of the most aggressive invasive species known and eradication is notoriously challenging.

Yearly monitoring is not adequate due to the rapid and aggressive growth. Instead, monitoring should be done every 3 – 4 weeks during the growing season which would then include physical removal of any sprouts or seedlings found. Then this would need to be repeated yearly for at least 4 – 7 years, depending on how many individuals grow up each year. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place after that for a few more years just to ensure that nothing has returned.

References and Resources

CABI on Fallopia japonica https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/23875 **CABI now charges for this information

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

eflora.org Flora of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Invasive Species Center on Japanese Knotweed https://www.invasivespeciescentre.ca/invasive-species/meet-the-species/invasive-plants/japanese-knotweed/

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Reynoutria japonica https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reynoutria_japonica

Willis, Lyrae (2021).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

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If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Wild Strawberry Fragaria vesca, virginiana & chiloensis - Native Plants

Fragaria virginiana Wild Strawberry with the shorter terminal tooth and the bluish-green leaves.
Fragaria virginiana Wild Strawberry with the shorter terminal tooth and the bluish-green leaves.
Fragaria vesca The Woodland Strawberry with the longer terminal teeth and green leaves.
Fragaria vesca The Woodland Strawberry with longer terminal teeth (tooth often longer than here), bright green leaves.
Fragaria chiloensis the Coastal or Beach Strawberry with the leathery dark green leaves and the larger flowers. Photo from Wikipedia.
Fragaria chiloensis the Coastal or Beach Strawberry with dark green leathery leaves & larger flowers. Photo from Wikipedia.

Wild Strawberries Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana & Fragaria chiloensis – Native Plants of the Week

Introduction

Who doesn’t love wild strawberries? The berries are small, but there is so much flavor packed into those little bites! There are actually three main species of wild strawberry native to North America. The two that are very common are often both called Wild Strawberry and Woodland Strawberry making the common names confusing, as they often are. In general, however, Fragaria vesca is called the Woodland Strawberry and Fragaria virginiana is called the Wild Strawberry. Fragaria virginiana is also sometimes called the Virginia Strawberry, even though it is the most widespread of all species in North America. A third wild strawberry that is much less common is Fragaria chiloensis known as Coastal Strawberry or the Beach Strawberry that inhabits the Pacific Coast of North America. Finally Fragaria cascadensis is an exceedingly rare microendemic species of the Cascade Range that was only discovered in 2012. I will discuss the three more well-known ones in this article. They are all very similar in appearance, distribution, and how they were and still are used today.

Description of Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Coastal Strawberry

Stem & Leaves of Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana, Fragaria chiloensis

Fragaria species are part of the Rosaceae family in the Rosales order of dicot flowering plants. All three species are low-growing species with basal leaves that are petiolate (have stalks) and trifoliate having three leaflets.

Fragaria vesca leaves are bright green and the terminal tooth at the end of each leaflet is as long or longer than the ones next to it. The leaves are not glaucus, not leathery, and are not reticulate veined on their abaxial side. Note that in subspecies californica sometimes the terminal tooth is shorter than the adjacent ones making identification to the species level a bit more challenging where ranges overlap. The leaves grow on long hairy stems that are usually green.

Fragaria virginiana leaves are often bluish-green but may be green or bright green. They are not glaucus but are sometimes somewhat leathery. The abaxial side does not have reticulate veins. The terminal tooth on the leaflets is usually shorter than the adjacent teeth. The shorter terminal tooth and its bluish color is the easiest way to differentiate the species from the others. Leaves grow on a sparsely hairy greenish or reddish stem.

Fragaria chiloensis leaves are thick and leathery, dark green or green, not glaucus, and strongly reticulate veined abaxially. Leathery leaves and abaxial reticulate veins are the main identifying feature of this species. The terminal tooth on the leaflets is usually shorter than the adjacent teeth. The abaxial surface is silky hairy while the adaxial (upper) surface is glabrous and shiny. Leaves grow on a hairy reddish stem.

Flowers & Fruits of Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana, Fragaria chiloensis

Fragaria virginiana Wild Strawberry with abundant fruits from my yard in Edgewood, BC, Canada
Fragaria virginiana Wild Strawberry with abundant fruits from my yard in Edgewood, BC, Canada

Fragaria vesca flowers are bisexual (usually) or unisexual and are 1.1 – 2.1 cm across. They are usually in clusters of 2-5 flowers. They have 5 white petals that are obovate to nearly orbiculate and their margins may or may not be overlapping. There are about 20 yellow stamens. The fruit is a conical-shaped pseudocarp and its achenes (seeds) are deeply embedded in the surface of the fruit in shallow pits. The achenes are 1 – 1.5 mm long and are yellowish-green to reddish-brown. The bractlets and sepals may be spreading, reflexed or clasping when in fruit.

Fragaria virginiana flowers are bisexual or may at times be unisexual and dioecious or gynodioecious. The flowers are 0.95 – 2.7 cm across and they have 5 white petals that are obovate or broadly obovate. The petals may or may not overlap each other. There are about 20 yellow stamens. The fruit is a globular (roundish) pseudocarp and its achenes are usually deeply embedded but rarely in shallow pits. Achenes are yellowish-green to reddish-brown and are 1.2 – 1.8 mm long each. The sepals are clasping in fruit as seen in the above picture.

Fragaria chiloensis flowers are bisexual, pistillate or staminate and are 1.5 – 2.8 cm across. They are in clusters of 5 – 15 flowers. Each flower usually has 5 petals but occasionally there are 6. Petals are obovate or widely depressed and obovate, margins may or may not overlap. There are 20 – 25 yellow stamens. The fruit is an ovate hairy pseudocarp and the achenes are either in shallow pits or only partially embedded. Achenes are 1.4 – 2 mm long and are reddish-brown to dark brown. Both bractlets and sepals are clasping in fruit.

While our native Fragaria species do produce viable seeds it is believed that most our Fragaria species reproduce more asexually through their stolons. Sometimes they sprout new crowns from their rhizomes as well, but stolons are the primary source of reproduction.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

While there are several other related genera in the Rosaceae or Rose family with a very superficial appearance to Fragaria, most can easily be ruled out if they do not have trifoliate leaves. Another factor to easily rule them out is that some of them have yellow flowers instead of white whereas Fragaria flowers are always white. The most common misidentification in North America is between the 3 common Fragaria species described above. Below are a few other species that can be misidentified when no fruit or flower is present, or where the fruit is present and looks superficially similar to Fragaria species.

  • Fragaria cascadensis – this is a rare microendemic species confined to the Cascade Mountains throughout Oregon and southern Washington. In its narrow range, it can be differentiated from the other strawberries found there by the hairs found on its upper and lower leaves. None of the other species in North America have hair on the adaxial (upper) surface. This species was only first described in 2012 as a unique species.
  • Rubus lasiococcus – this is a low-growing Rubus only found in the Cascade range region of southernmost British Columbia, Washington and Oregon. It can usually be differentiated by the fact that the lower two of its trifoliate leaflets are mostly two-lobed, making the whole leaf appear 5-lobed. It is occasionally not lobed, however, in which case the numerous white stamens will help differentiate it from the Fragaria genus.
  • Potentilla indica – the false strawberry is an introduced species found all over much of North America. It has trifoliate leaves and grows to a similar size as Fragaria. However, when in flower it is easy to differentiate by its yellow flowers instead of white as in all Fragaria species. When in fruit it is also fairly easy to differentiate. Even though the fruits look very much like a strawberry they do not hang on long stems. Instead they are usually held upright, and they are spherical instead of conical or globular.

Distribution of Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana & Fragaria chiloensis

The Woodland Strawberry Fragaria vesca is found throughout much of the northern hemisphere where it is native and widespread. The Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana is a North American species that grows across most of the US and Canada. The Coastal or Beach Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis is native to the Pacific coasts of North & South America as well as Hawaii.

Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Coastal or Beach Strawberry in Canada

The Woodland Strawberry Fragaria vesca is found in British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland Island, and the Northwest Territories. It is absent from Nunavut, Yukon Territories, and Labrador. Its status in Prince Edward Island is unclear.

The Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana is found in all provinces and all northern Territories.

The Coastal Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis is only found in British Columbia on the Pacific Coast.

Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Coastal or Beach Strawberry in the USA

The Woodland Strawberry Fragaria vesca is found Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Arizona, Texas, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Wisconsin, Illinois, Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine. It is not native to but has been introduced in Hawaii.

The Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana is found in every state in the continental USA including Alaska.

The Coastal Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis is native to Hawaii and introduced into Alaska. According to USDA it is both native and introduced in Washington, Oregon, and California, though I could not find a reason why this is so since the Pacific coast of North America is part of its natural range.

Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Coastal or Beach Strawberry in Mexico

The Woodland Strawberry Fragaria vesca is found mostly in mountainous terrain in Mexico. It is found in Baja California, Baja California Sur, Sonora, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Jalisco, Durango, Chihuahua, Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, Mexico State, Morelos, Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Veracruz, Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, and Chiapas.

Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana has only been confirmed in two states Chihuahua and Coahuila. In both states it was found in mountainous terrain.

The Coastal Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis does not appear to be found on the Pacific coast of Mexico. It has a disjunct distribution on the Pacific coast of Canada and the USA. It is then absent from the Pacific coasts of Mexico and Central America. Then it is found again on the Pacific coast of South America where it was likely brought by birds.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Wild, Woodland and Coastal Strawberry

Fragaria vesca is a widespread species often found along roadsides, trails, on hills, in meadows, young or open forests, forest edges, and clearings. It is frequently found in coniferous forests but also grows in mixed forests. It prefers shade or partial shade. Often it is found in areas too shady to produce fruit because it primarily spreads by runners. In the northern parts of its range it tolerates more sun. However, in the southern end of its range it is only found in shady habitats. This is why in Mexico it is generally found only in mountainous terrain. It prefers wet and moist soil types and tolerates some acidity.

Fragaria virginiana is also a widespread species but is more common in mixed or deciduous forests than coniferous forest areas. It is commonly found in open forests, forest edges, hillsides, meadows, clearings and along roadsides. Tolerating more sun than Fragaria vesca, it is found in both full sun and part shade throughout its range but seldom in full shade. It prefers dry to moderately moist soil types and tolerates some moderate acidity.

Fragaria chiloensis is restricted to coastal habitats close to the ocean. It prefers sandy soil types in full sun and is usually found on or close to beaches in its range.

Growing Wild Strawberries in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

Wild Strawberries and Woodland Strawberries are both widespread species and incredibly easy to grow in your yard. You can start them by seed, or pick off a couple of runners from the wild, following Ethical Wildcrafting guidelines of course. Or simply allow the ones already there to grow, as I did. Starting strawberries from seeds can be challenging, though rewarding when it does work. However, wild strawberries are so abundant in North America I strongly suggest you wildcraft some runners and start them that way. The plants will take and grow so much faster.

They can be planted in most soil types. The Fragaria virginiana photo above in the Flowers & Fruits section grew on its own in sandy and gravel soil with very little organic matter. All I did was give it a little water in the summer and it produced that enormous crop of berries. I started watering all the Fragaria I had in my yard (I had both species) and I let them spread as a ground cover instead of planting a lawn. If you have poor soil like I did and want them to produce more fruits simply amend it with a little organic compost each spring. It will help feed them and retain water at the same time.

Winter and Other Maintenance

Other than an occasional top-dressing of compost and a bit of water during extended summer droughts, wild strawberries of any kind require no maintenance. Wild strawberries are also tolerant of cold so they require no winter maintenance. They will return each spring. If you are concerned and live in a particularly cold climate you could provide the plants with some winter mulch.

Wildlife Values of Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Beach Strawberry

Wild animals and birds of all kinds are known to regularly feed on wild strawberries anytime the fruit is in season. It is particularly popular with songbirds and grouse. Several native ungulates including elk, mule deer, white-tailed deer, black-tailed deer, and mountain goats also routinely feed on the foliage. Grizzly bears, black bears, and raccoons also feed on the Woodland and Wild Strawberry, particularly the berries but it is believed that they also eat the leaves.

The flowers are open-pollinated by any animal that visits. Bees and butterflies are both known to visit the flowers. Wild strawberries are also the larval host of some native butterflies and moths including the Grizzled Skipper Pyrgus centaureae and the Gray Hairstreak Strymon melinus.

Status of Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana & Fragaria chiloensis

The Woodland Strawberry Fragaria vesca

Fragaria vesca the Woodland Strawberry is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In Canada, Fragaria vesca is Locally Secure S5 in British Columbia and Ontario. It is Apparently Secure S4 in Saskatchewan, Manitoba, and New Brunswick. In Nova Scotia it is Vulnerable S3. It is unranked in all other territories and provinces where it is found.

In the USA, Wild Strawberry is considered Vulnerable S3 in Wyoming. It is as yet unranked in all other states where it is found.

In Mexico no information on its status could be found.

The Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana

The Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana is considered Globally Secure G5.

In Canada, Fragaria vesca is Locally Secure S5 in British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland Island, and the Yukon Territories. It is Vulnerable S3 in Labrador. In Northwest Territories, Nunavut, and Quebec it is currently unranked.

In the USA, Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana is considered Locally Secure S5 in Montana, Wyoming, Iowa, Kentucky, Virginia, West Virginia, North Carolina, Delaware, and New York. It is Critically Imperiled S1 in Louisiana. In all other states where it is found it is still unranked.

In Mexico no information on its status could be found.

The Coastal or Beach Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis

The Coastal or Beach Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis is considered Globally Secure G5.

In Canada ,Fragaria chiloensis is Locally Secure S5 in British Columbia. It is found nowhere else in Canada.

In the USA, Beach Strawberry is unranked in Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and California. It is not found anywhere else in the USA.

In Mexico there is no Coastal Strawberry found.

Traditional or Other Uses of Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Coastal Strawberry

Wild Strawberry as Food

Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, and Coastal or Beach Strawberry were widely used as food by all indigenous peoples throughout their ranges. They were eaten fresh, made into preserves, cooked with other foods, dried individually or made into cakes for winter use. Many native people of North America were documented as using any or all three species for food. There were no doubt more than I even found in my research but the ones documented I found include the Abnake, Alaska, Algonquin, Apache, Bella Coola, Blackfoot, Cahuilla, Carrier, Clallam, Chehalis, Cherokee, Cheyenne, Chinook, Chippewa, Cochiti, Coeur d’Alene, Costanoan, Cowlitz, Cree, Dakota, Diegueno, Gosiute, Haisla, Hanaksiala, Hesquiat, Hoh, Iroquois, Isleta, Karok, Kitasoo, Klallam, Klamath, Lakota, Makah, Mendocino, Menominee, Meskwaki, Montana, Navajo, Nespelem, Nisqually, Nitinat, Ojibwa, Okanagan-Colville, Omaha, Oweekeno, Paiute, Pawnee, Ponca, Puyallup, Pomo, Potawatomi, Quileute, Salish, Sanpoil, Shuswap, Skagit, Skokomish, Spokane, Squaxin, Swinomish, Thompson, Tolowa, Winnebago and Yurok.

It is believed the Algonquin used to cultivate the berries to get larger harvests.

The Coast Salish, Cowlitz, Blackfoot and the Winnebago made tea from the dried leaves. The Thompson used the flowers and stems as a spice to flavor edible roots, and also put it in their armpits as a type of deodorant.

Fragaria virginiana and Fragaria chiloensis were the two strawberries that were hybridized to create all modern commercial strawberries Fragaria x ananassa that are produced and eaten today. Wild types are still sometimes eaten by native and non-native people alike, particularly when there is an abundance.

Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana, Fragaria chiloensis Medicinal Uses

The Quileute of Washington state used a poultice of chewed leaves as a dressing for burns. The Okanagan-Colville used the dried leaves in a poultice as a dermatological aid for sores, as a disinfectant, and it was also applied to babies’ gums for teething.

The Blackfoot, Thompson, Diegueno, and Skokomish made an infusion used to treat diarrhea, especially for children and babies with the Thompson. The Carrier made a decoction of the stems for bleeding of the stomach. The Potawatomi and the Ojibwa used an infusion for stomach problems, the Ojibwa particularly used it for babies with stomach problems. The Chippewa used it as a pediatric aid for “cholera infantum”.

The Iroquois used the plant for numerous medical conditions including abortifacient, diarrhea, blood tonic, eyewash, colic in babies, gonorrhea, heart problems, stroke, canker sores, and teething babies. The Navajo used the whole plant as a ‘life medicine’ and the Iroquois used it as a “spring medicine”.

The Cherokee people used wild strawberries for several medicinal uses including diarrhea, visceral obstructions, jaundice, kidney problems, scurvy, depression, as a sedative, for bladder infections, and as a toothache remedy. The Malachite and Micmac used it is an abortifacient.

Fragaria Ceremonial and Other Uses

The Pomo and Kashaya used the strawberries as part of a ceremonial dance. The Iroquois used it in ceremonies as a symbol of the Creator’s beneficence.

The stolons (runners) were frequently used as a rope for tying and binding things together.

Wild Strawberry as an Ornamental

Sometimes Wild Strawberry plants are used as garden ornamentals. However, most people grow the hybrid type in their gardens for their more abundant fruits. More wild strawberries should be used as ornamentals in gardens across North America. They make a great ground cover, provide biodiversity and wildlife values, and occasionally produce a delicious crop of tiny berries.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana, Fragaria chiloensis

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in some states and provinces. See above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely ground cover, flowers, and delicious fruits.

If you are harvesting Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana, or Fragaria chiloensis from the wild as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 fruit or leaves that you see. It is important not to pick all of the fruits so that you leave some behind for the numerous native animals and birds that rely on them as an important summer food source.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits or leaves can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

Wild strawberries are usually eaten fresh upon picking. If using the leaves medicinally they can be dried for later use.

To dry the leaves simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. If you are wanting to dry the fruits be sure there is enough air circulation around your drying racks to prevent rotting. Otherwise, they could also be dried more quickly in the sun the way indigenous people used to do it, or in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting.

Once dried, the leaves and fruits can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species name and the date of harvest, I also usually add the location of harvest for my own reference. Do not grind or crush the leaves or fruits until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Fire Effects Information System on Fragaria vesca https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/forb/fraves/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center Database https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=frvi

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Fragaria cascadensis https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fragaria_cascadensis

Wikipedia picture of Fragaria chiloensis By Will Elder / National Park Service – https://www.nps.gov/prsf/learn/nature/beach-strawberry.htm, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10543349

Willis, Lyrae (2021).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Silybum marianum Milk Thistle - Invasive Species of North America

Silybum marianum Milk Thistle Blessed Milk Thistle Variegated Thistle flower and leaves
Silybum marianum Milk Thistle Blessed Milk Thistle Variegated Thistle flower and leaves

Introduction

Milk Thistle or Silybum marianum is an interesting plant. It has gorgeous variegated leaves and will grow in just about any disturbed environment as long as it has sufficient sunlight. It is also a widely used medicinal herb and many people today are still planting it in their garden for this reason. Once planted however, they quickly realize that now they have to remove the Milk Thistle from their yard before it takes over.

About 20 years ago I once planted it in my garden in West Sechelt, British Columbia, Canada for its medicinal properties. I was thrilled by how productive my crop was the first year. However, the second year I was horrified at the number of seedlings popping up where I had not planted them. I had not heard yet of its invasiveness at that time, clearly, or I would never have planted it. So I spent the following two years trying to remove every Milk Thistle seedling I could find. I moved away after that and have often wondered if I managed to stop it from becoming invasive there, or did I start an infestation that got out of control? It literally haunts me a little still to this day.

Until something becomes known as invasive, how are we supposed to know? My suggestion is to do your research before you plant anything new. This is particularly true of medicinal herbs which are often opportunistic species that may invade given the chance. With all of the information available today at our fingertips, it is not necessary to take chances anymore. If it is invasive and you want some raw herb, purchase it online from a reputable source instead.

Description of Silybum marianum

Leaves & Stems

Silybum marianum is part of the Asteraceae (Sunflower) family in the Asterales order of flowering dicot plants. Its stems are either glabrous or slightly tomentose (rough-hairy), lightly grooved, not winged, and grow from 0.3 – 2 m in height. It grows from a basal rosette of leaves up to 1.6 m wide in diameter. Stems are usually branched but not repeatedly and are usually armed with spines. The oldest stems are often hollow.

Its leaves appear strongly variegated in shiny green with milk-white veins. The basal leaves are oblong to lanceolate, coarsely lobed and armed with marginal spines. They are 15 – 65 cm long and are attached to their stems on winged petioles. As the leaves approach the flowers they become smaller and more clasping with an auriculate (ear-shaped) base.

Flowers & Fruits

Silybum marianum Milk Thistle Blessed Milk Thistle Variegated Thistle flower head with spiny phyllaries (bracts).
Silybum marianum Milk Thistle Blessed Milk Thistle Variegated Thistle flower head with spiny phyllaries (bracts). Photo from Wikipedia see credits below.

Silybum marianum flowers anywhere from February to November, depending on the location. The phyllaries’ (floral bracts) appendages are ovate, spreading, and 1 – 4 cm long including their long spiny yellowish tip. The flower heads are from 4 – 12 cm long and 3 – 6 cm wide; they contain disk florets only. The disk florets are 26 – 35 mm long in magenta or purple. The tubes are 13 – 25 mm long, throats are campanulate (bell shaped) and 2 – 3 mm long, and they have 5 – 9 mm long lobes.

Note: disk florets and phyllaries are unique features of Asteraceae family flowers. If you want to learn more about Asteraceae flowers and their unique physical characteristics I suggest you check out the diagrams here https://cronodon.com/BioTech/asteraceae.html . You can also read the Wiki page on Asteraceae, it is very informative. However, the above link has much better diagrams showing the different physical features of the composite flowers.

The fruit is a brown cypsela (a typical angular seed of the sunflower family) with black spots. Although, it is often incorrectly referred to as an achene. Both are simple, dry, indehiscent fruits. However, achenes come from a superior ovary whereas a cypsela comes from an inferior ovary. The distinction is subtle. The cypsela is accompanied by a pappus of hairs or scales that remain attached to the apex that aid in wind dispersal. The pappus is a fluffy white attachment 1.5 – 2 cm long, that is surrounded basally by a yellow ring.

Toxicity

Milk Thistle in some instances can be toxic to ruminant livestock due to nitrogen accumulation. It is not, however, toxic to human beings and is a common and highly popular medicinal herb.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

There are several native and nonnative thistles in North America that Milk Thistle is frequently confused with. In almost all cases they can easily be distinguished by the unique milky variegation on the leaves of the milk thistle. Sometimes, however, this variegation is more subtle which can lead to occasional misidentification. Similar looking species can be distinguished as follows:

  • Cynara cardunculus the Globe Artichoke – popular with gardeners, it has tall stems that are not winged and large, spiny flower heads like Milk Thistle. However, it can be differentiated by its grey-green leaves that are not spiny.
  • Cirsium vulgare the Spear Thistle – this has winged stems and its leaves are greenish and not variegated. It has moderate-sized flowers with small spines. 
  • Cirsium arvense the Creeping Thistle – has wingless stems but its greenish colored leaves are not variegated and it has smaller and much more slender flower heads.
  • Carduus nutans the Musk Thistle – has winged stems but its greenish leaves are not variegated. Its flower heads have small spines and they droop with age.
  • Onopordum spp – multiple species in North America that look somewhat similar but all have winged stems and their leaves are either bluish-grey or whitish rather than variegated. They also have smaller flower heads and smaller spines.

Native Distribution of Silybum marianum

Silybum marianum is native to throughout the Mediterranean countries as well as all of Asia from India north to Siberia.

Habitat Types Where Milk Thistle is Found

Milk Thistle grows in open fields, roadsides, agricultural areas, waste areas, any disturbed habitat. It can be found from sea level to 1300 m above sea level.

Silybum marianum requires habitats with full sun and prefers areas that are regularly disturbed. It tolerates drought, full sun, and nitrified soils. While it prefers nutrient-rich soil it can tolerate a wide range of soil types, quality, and moisture levels. It does not seem to prefer rocky soils.

Human Uses of Milk Thistle Silybum marianum

Milk Thistle as Food

Milk thistle has a long history of use in Europe as a food. Leaves with their spines removed were used in salads or cooked and eaten like cabbage. Stalks, roots and flowers were often cooked on their own or added to stews as a vegetable. Seeds were sometimes used as a coffee substitute. While humans use it for a food source it is considered somewhat toxic for livestock to feed on.

Milk Thistle as Medicine

Silybum marianum has been used as a herbal medicine for over 2000 years. It was widely used as a milk stimulant, for liver, kidney and spleen problems, jaundice, gallstones, menstrual problems, and neurological problems.

Currently, Milk Thistle is widely used as a herbal remedy for hepatitis (especially Hepatitis C), cirrhosis, jaundice, diabetes, indigestion, and as part of a gentle cleanse. It is also occasionally used to help treat poisonings from toxic mushrooms, industrial solvents, excess acetaminophen or other over-the-counter or prescription drugs.

Studies have been being done that show it can help as a neuroprotective to aid in treating age-related decline in brain function. Studies are also being done to see if it can help aid and boost the effectiveness of cancer treatments.

The active ingredients in Milk Thistle cypselae are a group of phytochemicals called silymarin. Occasionally it can cause allergic reactions, usually in those with allergies to other plants in the sunflower family. It also may lower blood sugar levels in people with type 2 diabetes so they should be cautious when using it.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Silybum marianum and Making of Medicines

When it comes to truly invasive species with no or little wildlife values there is no need to “ethically” wildcraft. Milk Thistle is a wonderful medicinal herb. If you see it growing in your area and want to harvest pick to your heart’s content. Choose an area free of major sources of pollutants though if you intend to ingest it medicinally.

The achenes are ripe when there is a lot of fluffy white pappus visible. They readily split open at this stage upon picking so keep your bag or basket under the flower head. This will prevent any seeds from spilling on the ground as you harvest. Pick all of the mature seed heads that you find whether you need them all or not. Allow them to continue drying in the bag or basket for a few more weeks until they easily split apart. Process any seeds you want to use. Any excess seeds should be ground before you burn or otherwise dispose of them. Do not throw them directly in your compost, garbage, or anywhere else before grinding them.

Making Milk Thistle Tinctures

To use Silybum marianum as medicine you must remove the fluffy pappus from the achene (seed). Dry the seed thoroughly on a rack or in a paper bag. Then grind it and make it into a tincture using alcohol. You can use vodka or white rum (or other alcohol, they just impart more flavor to the tincture). If you can get your hands on 95% ethyl alcohol this will make the best tincture. Everclear is a common brand but it is not legal for sale in some states and provinces.

To make a tincture put the ground seeds in a jar and cover them with your alcohol of choice. Be sure to add enough alcohol to thoroughly cover the seeds and a little extra to account for any evaporation. When done your tincture should be bright yellow from the resins that contain the active ingredient silymarin. Note that the active ingredient silymarin is almost completely insoluble in water so teas and other water-based extracts will not be effective.

Distribution of Silybum marianum in North America

The species was first brought to North America by the early colonists as a medicinal herb and as a food source. It was intentionally planted and spread with the colonists.

In Canada, Silybum marianum has been recorded in British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia. In Saskatchewan it is reported as ephemeral. Interestingly, it is not reported as present in Manitoba yet the Manitoba government’s department of agriculture has a page on their site telling you how to grow it. They even seem to try to persuade farmers to grow it by spouting the economics and marketing of it. Species known to be invasive in any part of any country should ideally not be encouraged to be grown in other parts of that same country.

In the USA, Milk Thistle is found in Washington, Oregon, California, Nevada, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee, Virginia, Washington DC, West Virginia, Maryland, Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire. Since there is still so much habitat suitable for Silybum marianum it is expected that it will be much more widespread in the USA in the future unless adequate control of Milk Thistle is enforced.

In Mexico Silybum marianum has been reported in Baja California, Sonora, Nuevo Leon, Hidalgo, Veracruz, Mexico State, Mexico City, and Puebla. It is likely more widespread than currently reported and will continue to spread into more states throughout Mexico.

Milk Thistle has been introduced on every continent except for Antarctica. It is considered an invasive weed in North America, Australia, New Zealand, and parts of South America.

How Blessed Milk Thistle Spreads

Milk Thistle is primarily spread through long-distance by deliberate human introductions by planting them in their garden. Seeds are still widely sold on the internet and often in garden stores as well due to their popularity as a medicinal herb.

One Silybum marianum plant can produce over 6000 seeds that remain viable in the soil seed bank for 9 years. Furthermore, they can germinate through an extraordinary range of temperatures between 0 – 30 C. Seeds can be transported short-distances by wind, clothes, shoes, equipment, pets, etc.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Any open, disturbed habitat is at risk of invasion in North America as long as it has adequate sunlight. This makes agricultural areas, roadsides, new development, riparian areas, clearings, urban fallow, and waste areas particularly at risk. This means that anywhere humans develop the area is at risk of invasion. And since most disturbed habitats have abundant sunlight that means that light requirement is not an issue. Since it is not only drought tolerant but will also germinate at temperatures around 0 C it is expected that Silybum marianum will continue to spread throughout North America. This is a particular concern in the central areas of Canada, the USA, and Mexico where it currently is not found or at least not yet in any abundance.

Impacts of Invasion by Silybum marianum

Silybum marianum frequently invades pastures and agricultural lands where it can rapidly take over and exclude forage grasses and herbs, native plants, and agricultural plants. Due to its height and diameter, a single plant can displace a significant amount of forage plants for livestock.

Milk Thistle is known to accumulate potassium nitrate which can make it toxic to ruminant livestock because the bacteria in their stomachs convert it to nitrate ions. However, it is not considered toxic to humans.

Due to their preference for disturbed habitats they do not pose a very serious threat to undisturbed native environments. However, they will rapidly spread in fallow fields and have occasionally invaded nearby wild grasslands and meadows with proximity to agricultural areas.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

The flowers do produce nectar that is used by both native and agricultural bees. However, the plants that it displaces likely would have also provided the same benefit for the bees.

Methods to Remove Milk Thistle

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Milk Thistle. Do not plant it in your yard like I mistakenly did all those years ago.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species. And if you are wanting to grow it solely for the medicine, then buy the medicine or the raw seeds online from a reputable source. Just do not plant those seeds in your yard.

Physical Control of Milk Thistle

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

Physical methods for the removal of Milk Thistle involve the cutting down of the plants. Because it is an annual or biennial species removal of the rootstock is not absolutely necessary. The best time to remove Milk Thistle is in the mid-late spring before the flowers have opened or matured. Immature seeds will continue to mature on cut plants, particularly those that remain attached to the stem. So it is important they be cut down before the flowers mature so they cannot go to seed.

Wear gloves to protect your hands from the spines. If the plant already has a stem use hand cutters, machetes, loppers, etc to cut down the above-ground growth. Be sure to then use a shovel to cut it further just below the surface of the soil so that it is not able to re-grow that year. Alternatively, you can then use a weed puller to remove the root. If it is early in the year and you are only dealing with the basal rosette of leaves then weed pullers can be used to remove the root. A shovel can also be used on a rosette to cut the growth off below the soil surface.

Frequent cultivation in agricultural areas is a good method to control Milk Thistle infestations. Cultivation must occur before the plants go to seed. This should be followed with planting of suitable annual forage plants for your livestock. Keep cultivating yearly if necessary until the infestation is gone. Then yearly monitoring can be done to remove any seedlings that may still try to sprout.

Physical Removal Methods of Milk Thistle That Are Not Recommend

Mechanical mowers are never recommended. They help spread the seeds around and they will not actually kill the plant since they do not remove all the green photosynthetic leaves above ground. The remaining plant will simply re-grow and could still set seed that same year.

Controlled fires are not an adequate method to remove Milk Thistle. Milk Thistle seeds are tolerant of low-temperature fires. Furthermore, the release of nutrients the fire creates as well as the disturbance it creates makes a suitable environment for the seedlings to sprout. Fires may actually encourage their spread.

Disposal of Milk Thistle Removed

If you have plants that have any seeds, whether mature or not, they must be solarized. To solarize put the plants under a thick black tarp, or into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 8 weeks to ensure that all seeds are no longer viable. Many sources recommend shorter time periods for solarization. However, temperature differences throughout the bag, as well as variable sun conditions during the process, can lead to differential survival of some seeds during solarization. Better safe than sorry, so please solarize as long as possible.

Replanting may be necessary, and ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. See the Integrated Management section below for more information.

Chemical Control of Milk Thistle

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

Chemical control is generally not recommended. However, since Silybum marianum is more often a weed of roadsides and agricultural areas chemical control is sometimes used. Since there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Milk Thistle then handheld spray applications are recommended rather than non-selective machine spraying. Herbicide availability and legality vary from area to area so if you have a large infestation and want to use this method then please research herbicides used in your area. If at all possible try physical control methods first as Milk Thistle removal by physical means is relatively easy for an invasive species.

Biological Control of Milk Thistle

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of seeds to actually control the Milk Thistle on their own. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective when dealing with large infestations over a wider geographical area. These are the biological control methods that have been used in North America in an attempt to help remove Milk Thistle.

Biological Control Organisms Used in North America

  • Rhinocyllus conicus is a seed head weevil is reported to do significant damage and is a viable option to control Milk Thistle. It has been released in the USA with some success. However, it also attacks the native thistles so this method is not recommended.
  • Alternaria species, a plant pathogen, is currently being studied for possible use in the USA, but to my knowledge has not yet been released.
  • Domestic Goats will feed on Silybum marianum without any ill effects. The goats are non-selective, however, and will eat almost anything in their path. Goats should be kept in a fence to prevent them from grazing outside of the infestation area. They should be allowed to graze from spring till fall to allow them to eat any new regrowth. They will need to be returned the following spring to graze continuously the next year to deal with any seedlings that emerge.
  • In agricultural areas maintaining vigorous, dense pasture land is the best method to control Milk Thistle. The types of agricultural plants used in the pastures will of course depend on your location so research what is best in your area.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. No one method alone will ever control an invasive species, or they would not have become invasive in the first place.

Replanting is Often Crucial

In many cases, particularly in agricultural fields where there has been a lot of Milk Thistle removal the area may need to be replanted. Since they are agricultural the type of planting will depend on the agricultural use as well as the location. Where the infestations occur on roadsides there are usually other weeds that will quickly grow up to take their place. In the occasional case where the area is a natural one, or one being converted to a natural area, then replanting should be done with native species. In that case, a replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon the removal of Milk Thistle. Use seeds from the local area if possible to replant native areas. If that is not possible then purchase native plants and native seeds from a reputable nursery specializing in native plants in your area.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Milk Thistle removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Milk Thistle can be aggressive and may out-compete planted vegetation if yearly monitoring is not put in place to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established.

Simply revisit the site every spring or so over the following years and remove any new rosettes or full plants that emerge before they are given a chance to go to seed. Seeds remain viable for 9 years in the soil so ongoing visits would be required for at least that long.

References and Resources

CABI Fact Sheet on Silybum marianum https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/50304 **CABI now charges for access!

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Manitoba Department of Agriculture on Milk Thistle https://www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/crops/crop-management/milk-thistle.html

Milk Thistle Flower Photo from Wikipedia By fir0002flagstaffotos [at] gmail.com Canon 20D + Sigma 150mm f/2.8 – Own work, GFDL 1.2, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1526654

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Silybum marianum https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silybum_marianum

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Guaiacum coulteri Arbol Santo - Native Plant of the Week

Arbol Santo Guaiacum coulteri - native flowering tree endemic to western Mexico
Arbol Santo Guaiacum coulteri – native flowering tree endemic to western Mexico

Arbol Santo Guaiacum coulteri – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

Guaiacum coulteri is called Arbol Santo in Mexico which translates to Holy Tree. Sometimes it is also referred to as Palo Santo, but that common name is also used for a Bursera species. Arbol Santo is a gorgeous slow-growing tree native to the seasonally dry forests of Mexico. When you see it growing in the wild it is a real treat because of its rarity. If you are lucky enough to find it in flower, as I did, take lots of photos of its gorgeous purple or blue flowers. I was even lucky enough to find a large old-growth tree once, and will likely never see one of those again due to their extreme rarity. It has incredibly dense wood and combined with its slow growth this has resulted in population declines throughout its entire range. It is truly a magnificent tree!

Because it is a Vulnerable species whose population is in serious decline due to overexploitation and exceeding slow growth rates, please do not ever harvest or damage the trees or shrubs. Instead, take pictures to enjoy at a later date, or if you are lucky enough to live in a suitable climate try growing it in your yard. Or if you are into bonsai, grow it as a bonsai tree. Its a beautiful slow-growing tree that makes a gorgeous bonsai. Seeds for this species seem exceedingly difficult to find for purchase, but I did find one site mentioning that they have them, I will list them in the Resources section below.

Description of Guaiacum coulteri Arbol Santo

Stem & Leaves

Young Guaiacum coulteri tree

Arbol Santo is a slow-growing evergreen shrub or tree of the Zygophyllaceae family. Sometimes it only grows as a densely branched and scandent shrub, especially in rocky habitats. Other times it grows as a tree 10 – 15 m tall and 30 – 40 cm diameter. Sometimes it can grow to 25 m tall and 100 cm diameter when conditions are ideal and it is left undisturbed to grow for long periods of time. However, over-exploitation and slow growth has made individuals of this size exceedingly rare.

Its trunk bark is whitish and somewhat vertically fissured while the branches are usually greyish.

The dark green leathery leaves are paripinnate (compound with an even number of leaflets) and oppositely placed on the branches. There are 2 – 6 pairs of leaflets that will rotate on their stems in hot weather to put their edges facing the sun instead of their entire leaf blade in order to minimize heat stress.

Flowers & Fruits

Guaiacum coulteri flower with 4 petals, 4 sepals and 8 stamens, unlike the usual 5, 5 and 10 arrangement seen above.
Guaiacum coulteri flower with 4 petals, 4 sepals and 8 stamens, unlike the usual 5, 5 and 10 arrangement seen normally.
Guaiacum coulteri flower closeup up side view showing the androecium and gynoecium
Guaiacum coulteri flower closeup up side view showing the androecium and gynoecium

The purple or blue flowers appear in small fasciculate inflorescences on the tree branches. They are 1 – 2 cm across and have 5 spreading petals on twisted claws. I only found reference to it having 5 petals but I have found flowers with four petals on the same tree as those with five petals, it was accompanied by 4 sepals and 8 stamens (see photo above). Its sepals are purplish and obovate in shape with slightly inrolled margins. The tree blooms first in spring and then sporadically throughout the year until fall.

The reproductive organs are tightly grouped in the center of the flower. It has twice as many stamens as petals. Usually 10 (8) stamens with somewhat translucent looking filaments topped with yellow anthers are often in a somewhat spiraled arrangement around the pistil. This pistil is composed of a syncarpous ovary with a single filiform style.

Its fruit is a yellow-orange ovoid capsule with black seeds. The seeds are covered in a bright red aril. Due to its slow growth, it may not achieve significant seed production until it reaches 25 years of age.

Similar Species Guaiacum coulteri is Frequently Confused With

The unique flowers of the Zygophyllaceae family in general, and especially Guaiacum coulteri, make it hard to confuse with other genera, other than occasionally Ironwood, but only in their non-flowering states. Otherwise, they can be confused with the other four species of Guaiacum, which can be differentiated as follows:

  • Guaiacum unijugum – a rare microendemic species only found on a 70 km stretch in the Cape region of Baja California Sur. While it is closely related they can be differentiated based on their smaller pinnate leaves and their size as this species is a shrub, not reaching more than 2 m in height. Furthermore, while Guaiacum coulteri grows in Baja California Sur it seems to be absent from the Cape region where this rare species is only found.
  • Guaiacum angustifolium – separated geographically as an eastern species endemic to south Texas, USA and the states of Coahuila, Chihuahua, Nuevo Leon, and Tamaulipas in eastern Mexico. It has 8-16 leaflets that are 1 – 3 cm long and its capsules are obcordate, flattened, 2-4 lobed, winged, and hairy. Its petals are long and sometimes twisted but appear less clawed than G. coulteri.
  • Guaiacum officinale – also separated geographically as an eastern species native to the Caribbean islands and northern South America. Its pinnate leaves are 2.5 – 3 cm long and 2 cm wide, much more ovate in shape than any of the other Guaiacum species. The claws on its purple or blue flowers are not twisted.
  • Guaiacum sanctum – also separated geographically as an eastern species native to the Caribbean islands, Yucatan Peninsula, Central and northern South America. It has 6-8 leaflets that are 6–10 cm long. Its capsules are obovoid, 4–5-lobed, 4–5–winged, and glabrous.
  • Olneya tesota – Palo Fierro or Ironwood of the Fabaceae or legume family – as a tree it is sometimes mistaken for this tree that grows in a similar range to Arbol Santo. They have similar paripinnate leaves. However, they can easily be distinguished upon flowering as the Ironwood has pink pea-like flowers.

Distribution of Arbol Santo Guaiacum coulteri

Arbol Santo is endemic to western Mexico. It is found in the states of Oaxaca, Baja California Sur, Colima, Sonora, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Michoacán, Jalisco, Chiapas, and Guerrero.

Guaiacum coulteri is sometimes listed as being native to Guatemala, but I was not able to definitively confirm this. Reference was found to it possibly hybridizing in this location with G. sanctorum, a much more widespread species, so this could be adding to the confusion. Other sources say that it is not found outside of western Mexico. It is, however, occasionally cultivated in the Caribbean and the southern USA.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Arbol Santo, Palo Santo

Guaiacum coulteri is endemic to western Mexico where it thrives in the dry subtropical forests along the Pacific coastal states of western Mexico. It is a late succession species rarely found in young forests, further adding to its rarity.

It can sometimes be found in poor rocky exposed soils where it exists more as a shrub. In these conditions it is still able to flower and set fruit. On the other hand in forests it is found in more moderate soils. In all cases it prefers areas with low disturbance.

Growing Arbol Santo in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They also provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

Due to its rarity this tree may be difficult to find in nurseries. The more common Guaiacum officinale is much more common and easier to find in nurseries. It would make a lovely garden specimen as well. If you want Guaiacum coulteri I did find one seed source online listed in Resources below. Seeds should be started and allowed to grow for a few years at least before transplanting them into your garden.

Once ready to plant in your garden simply plant it in full sun to part shade in any well-drained soil. If your soil is dry and poor amend it with a little compost upon planting to provide it with food and extra moisture during the establishment phase. You can also top-dress with some compost for extra moisture retention. Once established however it will require no maintenance as it is a drought-tolerant species adapted to dry forests and poor soils.

If you live too far north and are into bonsai, try growing it as a bonsai tree. Its a beautiful slow-growing tree that makes a gorgeous bonsai.

Wildlife Values of Arbol Santo

Bees and butterflies are attracted to the flowers and birds assist in seed dispersal when they eat the fruits. Mammals browse the leaves and will also eat the fruits.

Status of Guaiacum coulteri

Arbol Santo is considered Globally Vulnerable. It is endemic to western Mexico and is found nowhere else in the world. Its status was last assessed in 2016 and reclassified as vulnerable with its population noted as decreasing in terms of the number of mature individuals seen in the wild in its native habitat. In 2010 only 1.3% of Guaiacum coulteri habitat was protected so this is one of the biggest problems with their current decline in population.

The populations of the entire genus are in decline and most are now protected. Population decline is believed to be a result of a combination of overexploitation for its wood, habitat loss, and its slow rate of regeneration.

Traditional or Other Uses of Arbol Santo

Arbol Santo as Wood

Arbol Santo has one of the hardest woods so it was used extensively for various tools and furniture. It is still used for its wood today, despite its declining populations. The entire genus is often referred to as lignum vitae for its wood which is one of the hardest and most dense woods there is. It is said to have a self-lubricating quality that makes it popular for mechanical uses such as wooden bearings.

Guaiacum coulteri Medicinal Uses

Guaiacum coulteri has a long history of medicinal use in Mexico. The Seri people who are native to Sonora, Mexico, used the berries as an unspecified medicine. The resin of the Caribbean species of Guaiacum was adopted for medicinal use by the Europeans by the late 15th century where it was used as a popular treatment for syphilis. Guaiacum coulteri was also later used for the same purpose.

Guaiacum resin was also used to stimulate menstruation and was sometimes used as an abortifacient in the 1700s. In the 1800s and 1900s herbalists and physicians alike used it as an expectorant, for sore throats, gout, and rheumatism.

It has been tested more recently against other popular Mexican herbal remedies and was found the most effective medicine for treating diabetes due to its ability to reduce hyperglycemia. It has been used to treat cancer and it has also been used as a diuretic, laxative, and as an anti-inflammatory for arthritis.

A phenolic compound derived from the entire genus has been commonly used to test for blood in the stool.

Arbol Santo as an Ornamental

Due to its lovely purple flowers, and its bright green evergreen leaves Arbol Santo is occasionally used as an ornamental. Sometimes it is used as a bonsai due to its slow growth and beautiful branching structure. With its declining populations, it would be nice to see this tree be propagated and more widely used as an ornamental, particularly in its native habitat. It is not going to become invasive outside its natural habitat due to its slow growth and length of time it takes to reach reproductive maturity. Ornamental plants are rarely seen exceeding 2 m in height but make beautiful shrubs for your yard if you live in a warm enough area. Other species of Guaiacum have become popular as ornamentals in Florida and California.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Guaiacum coulteri

Due to its vulnerable status, and lack of adequate protection of remaining wild stock, wildcrafting is not recommended. The wood should never be harvested anymore for this reason. Do not harvest the seeds as these need to remain in the wild for them to reproduce. See above section on Status. To learn about ethical wildcrafting principles check out my blog on Ethical Wildcrafting.

Alternatively, take lots of pictures if you find them in the wild. Also, you can grow it in your garden for its lovely growth form and beautiful purple flowers.

References and Resources

Arid Zone Trees – Possible Source for Guaiacum coulteri seeds http://www.aridzonetrees.com/guaiacum-coulteri.html

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Gordon, James E., Marco Antonio González, Jesús Vázquez Hernández, Roberto Ortega Lavariega and
Alberto Reyes-García (2005). Guaiacum coulteri: an over-logged dry forest tree of Oaxaca, Mexico. Oryx Vol 39 No 1 January 2005.

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List on Guaiacum coulteri https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/30847/68085761

McCauley, Ross A., Cortés-Palomec, Aurea C., & Oyama, Ken. (2010). Distribution, genetic structure, and conservation status of the rare microendemic species, Guaiacum unijugum (Zygophyllaceae) in the Cape Region of Baja California, Mexico. Revista mexicana de biodiversidad, 81(3), 745-758. Recuperado en 26 de diciembre de 2021, de http://www.scielo.org.mx/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1870-34532010000300016&lng=es&tlng=en.

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

University of Arizona Campus Arboretum on Guaiacum coulteri https://apps.cals.arizona.edu/arboretum/taxon.aspx?id=888

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Guaiacum https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guaiacum

Willis, Lyrae (2021).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Lythrum salicaria Purple Loosestrife is an Invasive Species of North America

Gossypium hirsutum leaf and fruit in the evening sun Sinaloa, Mazatlan, Mexico
Purple Loosestrife Lythrum salicaria photo by Lyrae Willis in Pierson, Michigan USA

Introduction

Purple Loosestrife Lythrum salicaria is a well-known noxious invasive species in North America. It has invaded all of southern Canada and almost the entire continental USA. It invades wetland habitats where the soil remains moist most of the year and grows abundantly on the edges of open water wetlands, lakes, rivers, etc. Purple Loosestrife is an aggressive invade known to create monocultures. Its sturdy rhizomes enable its vegetative spread and it produces a huge number of viable seeds each year. It is particularly invasive in the northeastern USA and in eastern Canada. Efforts to control or remove Purple Loosestrife cost $45 million per year in the USA.

When I was first learning about invasive species back when I was still a teenager on the coast of British Columbia, Canada, Purple Loosestrife was the most well-known invasive species at that time. We were lucky in British Columbia at that time in the Purple Loosestrife did not arrive in BC until 1915 and it is only found in a handful of locations in the southern half of the province. It is still a concern, certainly. But, knowledge and awareness go a long way. Now that many people are aware of the Loosestrife problem early detection becomes easier. Early detection is always the best method to control or remove Purple Loosestrife. It is so much easier to remove Purple Loosestrife from an area when there are only 10 or 20 plants to deal with as opposed to hundreds or thousands.

Description of Lythrum salicaria

Leaves & Stems of Lythrum salicaria

Purple Loosestrife is a herbaceous perennial producing 1 – 15 (-50) annual stems 60 – 120 (-200) cm tall from a perennial woody rhizome. The stems are angular and usually four-sided but occasionally grow 6-sided. They are stiff and woody and may be finely pubescent or hairless. Stems are green when young but turn reddish, brownish or purplish with age. The stems are slender and sometimes branched.

Leaves are sessile (no leaf stalk), entire (not toothed) and either lance-shaped or somewhat triangular. They may be smooth or finely pubescent. The leaves are usually arranged oppositely on the stem, one on each side of the node. But they may also be whorled with three or more per node. Upper leaves are usually smaller and arranged alternately on the stem. Leaf size varies with location on the stem as well as light levels, but may be anywhere from 3 – 12 cm long. Leaves turn bright red in autumn when the plant dies back for the winter.

Flowers & Fruits of Lythrum salicaria

The showy flowers bloom from June to September, depending on the location. They are usually deep pink but can vary to purple, light pink, or rarely white. Flowers are arranged in dense terminal spikes 10 – 100 cm long. Each flower is 1 – 2 cm in diameter with 6 (5-7) petals that are each 7 – 10 mm long and appear somewhat wrinkled.

In the yellow center of each flower is 12 crowded stamens and a single pistil with a long exserted style and capitate (rounded) stigma. The flowers are trystylous, having three different morphologies of styles and stamens coming in short, medium and long varieties. They are pollinated by a variety of insects that aid in the cross-pollination between the different flower morphs.

The fruits are an oblongovoid capsule 3 – 4 mm long, contained within a persistent calyx. The capsules open by two valves to release numerous tiny brownish seeds. Each capsule can contain more than a hundred seeds and a single mature plant can produce up to 2.7 million tiny seeds annually.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With Lythrum salicaria

Lythrum salicaria is part of the Lythraceae family. There are a few native species that grow in the same habitat that Lythrum salicaria is sometimes confused with. They can be differentiated as follows:

  • Chamerion angustifolium Fireweed – this Onagraceae family member is found in much of the same ranges in North America but usually in drier habitats, though they are sometimes found in moist habitats as well. However, the stems are rounded and smooth, not angular or pubescent and the leaves are always alternate and hairless. The flowers are in looser terminal racemes and each flower only has 4 petals.
  • Verbena hastata Blue Vervain – part of the Verbenaceae family, is also found in much of the same areas in North America, and in wetland habitats, and it also has stems that are angular and rough-haired. However, they can be distinguished by the leaves that have stalks (as opposed to sessile) and the flowers that smaller, blue-purple, and weakly two-lipped to funnel-shaped.
  • Lythrum alatum Winged Loosestrife – this related species is found in wetland habitats but is endemic to eastern North America only. Their square stems are always hairless and are winged. Also, the leaves are always stalked and the pink-purple flowers are born solitary in the leaf axils instead of in dense terminal spikes.
  • Decodon verticillatus Swamp Loosestrife – this is another member of the Lythraceae family also found in wetland habitats but is endemic to eastern North America only. It also has 4-6 sided hairy stems but they are taller, up to 2.5 m. Also, its leaves are short-stalked and shorter, only up to 4 cm long. Its flowers are produced in axillary cymes with 5 – 7 triangular sepals.

Native Distribution of Lythrum salicaria

Lythrum salicaria is native in wetland areas throughout Europe, temperate Asia, and northwest Africa. There is some debate on its status in Australia where it was thought to be a recent introduction. However, pre-colonial pollen samples collected in New South Wales suggest that it may either be native or have been introduced at a much earlier time in human history.

Habitat Types Where Purple Loosestrife is Found

Purple Loosestrife is a semi-aquatic moisture-loving species that can be found in wetlands, marshes, wet meadows and along the side of lakes and other riparian areas. It can also be found in wet ditches, wet gravel pits, and other disturbed areas providing there is an adequate amount of moisture. It is generally not found in areas subjected to extended droughts where the soil remains dry for most/all of the year.

Human Uses of Purple Loosestrife

Purple Loosestrife sadly is still occasionally sold online and in garden stores, despite the widespread knowledge of its invasiveness. It was and still is frequently used as a garden plant for wet areas and ponds for its pretty pink flowers. Many supposedly sterile cultivars have been developed in an attempt to deal with the plant’s invasiveness. However, many of those sterile cultivars that were said not to produce seeds have since been observed producing seeds and spreading. They are particularly at risk of spreading when cross-pollinating with wild varieties. Even though the hybrids themselves may be sterile they are still replacing native vegetation because they spread vegetatively through their rhizomes. The true sterility of these cultivars must be thoroughly investigated before they are allowed to be sold in stores. However, so far, this is not the case.

In herbal medicine Lythrum salicaria is used for its tannins and salicarin that act as astringents (drying agents). This makes it useful in teas to help treat diarrhea and dysentery. It is even considered safe for use by children and even babies. It is also occasionally used in teas for menstrual problems and bacterial infections. Sometimes it is applied externally for bleeding gums, hemorrhoids, varicose veins, and eczema. If you are harvesting Purple Loosestrife in North America remember that the rules of Ethical Wildcrafting do not apply when it comes to invasive species. Remove more of the plant than you even need for your own use. Just be sure to harvest before it goes to see so that you do not further spread the plant.

Distribution of Lythrum salicaria in North America

The species was first brought to North America in the early 1800s. The earliest official report was in 1814 on the eastern seaboard of the US. It was at first probably brought there through accidental introduction by way of seeds traveling in ship ballasts or possibly with livestock in their bedding and feed. It was then spread purposely by settlers and is still sometimes planted in aquatic gardens to this day.

In Canada, Lythrum salicaria has been recorded in all the southern provinces including British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and the island of Newfoundland but so far has not been reported in Labrador. It is also not currently found in any of the Northern Territories.

In the USA, Purple Loosestrife has spread to almost every state. The only continental states where it is not currently found are Arizona, Louisiana, Florida, Georgia, and South Carolina. It is surprising that is not found in Louisiana, Florida, Georgia, or South Carolina since there is a lot of habitat there suitable for invasion. It may in part be due to its preference for temperate habitats. However, given its presence in other southern states this would not rule out invasion in these areas. These areas would be good candidates for monitoring as early removal is the best means of dealing with an infestation of Purple Loosestrife. It is also not currently reported to be found in either Alaska or Hawaii.

In Mexico Lythrum salicaria has so far not been confirmed in any state.

Purple Loosestrife has been introduced to much of the temperate world including southern Africa, North America, South America, and New Zealand.

How Purple Loosestrife Spreads

Lythrum salicaria is primarily spread through long distances by deliberate human introductions in garden plantings where their prolific production of small seeds and their vegetative production by way of their rhizomes then helps them spread to nearby wild areas.

Purple Loosestrife is easily spread short distances by its prolific seeds. A single plant can produce 2.7 million tiny seeds annually that can be carried by wind, water, and animals. While its seeds can germinate in water they are much more prolific when the substrate is moist but not flooded. Seed viability is over 90% and the seeds can remain viable in the soil seed bank for many years.

Purple Loosestrife is also able to regenerate from pieces of roots that are broken off and float away in the nearby water to re-establish elsewhere.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Purple Loosestrife Lythrum salicaria near monoculture in a marsh conservation area in Ontario, Canada. Photo by  Saffron Blaze see credits.
Purple Loosestrife Lythrum salicaria near monoculture in a marsh conservation area in Ontario, Canada. Photo by Saffron Blaze see credits.

Purple Loosestrife is a water-loving species so any ecosystem with seasonal or permanently wet soils is at risk of invasion. These include marshes, bogs, fens, lake shores, and river or creek banks where the water is slow-moving. It is also tolerant of brackish water and will even invade tidal marshes. Purple Loosestrife will also invade wet ditches, canals, wet gravel pits, and other disturbed areas providing there is adequate moisture for it. It will tolerate drier conditions as well, but these habitats are more marginal for Purple Loosestrife.

Purple loosestrife prefers full sun to part shade, however, it can even tolerate full shade. It prefers cool temperate habitats but has been found in warm temperate habitats as well.

The only habitats that are not at risk are ecosystems subject to severe droughts including deserts and rocky mountainous terrains, and any other area where there is not adequate moisture.

Currently in North America it is not found in Louisiana, Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, Alaska or Hawaii but it is expected to invade these areas in the future. The Northern Territories of Canada will likely be at risk in the future as Purple Loosestrife has already been seen to adapt to the colder temperatures and shorter growing seasons as it moved northwards out of southern Ontario into central and northern Ontario. In northern Ontario the plants are smaller and go to seed sooner. In conjunction with climate change, it is not believed that the Northern Territories are exempt from potential invasion. It will likely invade Mexico in the future as well, particularly in the interior and mountainous regions with cooler conditions.

Impacts of Invasion by Lythrum salicaria

In rivers, creeks, canals and other waterways Purple Loosestrife infestations can seriously impact the flow of water. This can lead to costly Purple Loosestrife removal programs and loss of water to farmers in their irrigation canals. Its stiff stems trap debris and sediment and they also die back annually leaving plant litter to decompose. The combination of those two factors gradually change shallow water wetlands into more terrestrial wet meadow habitats. It can significantly reduce the recreational value of wetlands and waterways.

Because Lythrum salicaria is very competitive and grows very quickly it rapidly replaces native vegetation leading to the creation of monocultures. The creation of Purple Loosestrife monocultures affects habitat and food for numerous native birds, insects, and wildlife. It reduces nesting sites and shelter for birds and reduces shelter and habitat areas for fish. Significant declines in species richness (biodiversity) are always observed in habitats where Purple Loosestrife invaded. Increased biodiversity and ecosystem complexity are directly associated with ecosystem resilience. Monocultures create ecosystems that are further susceptible to serious declines.

It even commonly replaces cattails, which themselves are sometimes considered invasive even though they are native. Read this article here for more on common cattails and their supposed invasiveness in North America. The loss of cattails in marshes affects the native muskrats and other animals that feed on the rhizomes, young stalks and flowers. It also significantly reduces bird nesting sites as Purple Loosestrife is not suitable for nesting for most birds that would use the cattails.

Purple Loosestrife loses its leaves and decomposes faster than the native species it replaces. This causes a change in the timing of the release of nutrients into the ecosystem leading to eutrophication of the waterways downstream of the wetland habitat. This impacts native tadpole development as well as reduces the species richness and diversity in those ecosystems.

Potential Benefits of Invasion by Lythrum salicaria

Purple loosestrife is widely used by native and introduced bees alike. It is also visited by a number of native butterflies. However, the native vegetation Lythrum salicaria replaces would have also been a good source of nectar for the bees and butterflies and would have been associated with a multitude of other biodiversity and ecosystem values as well.

Methods to Remove Purple Loosestrife

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Purple Loosestrife. Do not plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Even if they inform you that they have only sterile cultivars, sometimes these are mislabeled. Even worse, sterile cultivars have many times now been proven not to be sterile and even if they themselves are sterile many have been shown capable of interbreeding with wild populations. Furthermore, their vegetative spread via their rhizomes still puts them at risk of escaping cultivation by vegetative means. Avoid all cultivars.

Instead, asks stores to sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species. And encourage these stores to do so by only purchasing species that are native to your region. We have so many beautiful native aquatic species all over North America. Just do a little research for your region and you will find many lovely alternatives.

Physical Control of Purple Loosestrife

Once already established, however, physical control is almost always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage and results in the greatest increase in biodiversity compared to chemical control.

Aquatic and semi-aquatic invasive species are notoriously difficult to control. Choose a time of the year when the water is low and the soil is fully exposed as this will make it easier to dig out the rhizomes. Since Lythrum salicaria is simply a water-loving plant and not a fully aquatic one this should be relatively simple. Monitor the area and find the best time. The soil should however still be wet as this loosens the attachment of the roots to the soil making them easier to pull out. Ideally, remove the plants before flowering but certainly before they have gone to seed. Purple Loosestrife removal while in seed will only spread the prolific seeds around. Since they are herbaceous perennials they will need to be removed during the growing season and cannot be done in the winter after the plant has died back.

When removing single isolated Purple Loosestrife plants hand pulling or the use of a narrow shovel or weed puller can be very effective means of control. It is best to dig them out before the patch spreads to prevent them from spreading to become the dominant ground cover. Younger plants are also much easier to dig out as older rhizomes are larger and more difficult to remove. Simply dig out the plants, gently, trying not to break the rhizomes and taking care to remove any broken pieces from the soil. Also, dig around the edge of the patch a little bit to ensure you get all the rhizomes. Any piece left behind can create a new plant so it is important to get as much of the root as possible. However, also be aware that any soil disturbance can encourage the germination of seeds in the soil seed bank. Therefore, try to disturb the soil as little as is physically possible. It is a delicate balance between getting all the roots and not disturbing the soil too much.

Cutting the plants before they go to seed is not an effective control method. While it is less labor-intensive in the short term it is much more labor-intensive in the long term. This is because it requires multiple visits to the site to cut back the regrowth, and visits each year for multiple years to ensure that it does not regrow and produce seeds. This can be an effective method if done diligently. This is because after some time the rhizome in the soil will eventually wither and die. Without above ground growth for photosynthesis the plant is not able to store energy in its rhizome for the following year’s growth.

Mechanical mowing or the use of machines is generally never recommended as they are nonselective and will destroy any native vegetation still in the patch. If it is a dense monoculture of significant size then this should be assessed by a professional who will then decide the best strategy. In almost all cases, however, this course of action is not recommended.

Flooding of less than 30 cm will not prevent germination. Short-term flooding tends to enhance the survival of Purple Loosestrife because it can adapt to changing environments. Short-term or long-term flooding may negatively impact the native vegetation on site so this method is not recommended. On-site burning is also not recommended for the same reason. Burning can negatively affect any native wetland vegetation on site as these plants are seldom adapted to fire.

Disposal of the Lythrum salicaria Plants Once Removed

In all cases of physical removal any tools that are used will need to be cleaned, solarized, sterilized or heat-treated to kill any viable seeds or rhizome parts that may be on them before moving them to another site. The same goes for the boots you wear on-site, they should be washed and sterilized to ensure that you are not spreading them to any new sites you visit.

Upon removal, the plants must either be burned or solarized. In either case, they are best removed from the site in black garbage bags to prevent the spread of any seeds or rhizome pieces. If you are not able to burn them in your area due to fire bans then you will need to place them in thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for 6 – 8 weeks to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. While some sources recommend a week of solarization I have seen disposal of solarized bags of invasive species still grow if not solarized long enough. This is in part due to differential temperatures within the bag as well as sunlight intensity and duration during solarization. This is why I always recommend a much longer period of solarization to ensure all seeds are no longer viable before they are disposed of. To dispose of them after treating bring them to your local garbage dump but be sure to inform them that they are invasive species so that they are dealt with accordingly.

See Integrated Management below, as all removal methods require additional management and monitoring.

Chemical Control of Purple Loosestrife

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Purple Loosestrife. Because they grow in wetlands and near major water sources in most cases the use of herbicides is not permitted.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Purple Loosestrife

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other biological agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The idea is an attempt to restore the natural balance that likely existed in its native environment where it had natural enemies that are not present in its new environment, The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of the target organism to actually control it on its own. However, using biological control in conjunction with an Integrated Management approach can be very effective. Following is a list of biological control methods that have been used in an attempt to help reduce the population densities of Lythrum salicaria.

Two species of leaf beetle have been used for the biological control of Purple Loosestrife. Neogalerucella (Galerucella) calmariensis The Black-Margined Loosestrife Beetle is a brown beetle with a black line down its thorax. It eats the leaves leaving characteristic round holes. Its larvae feed on leaf buds and leaves. A very similar and closely related species Neogalerucella (Galerucella) pusilla the Golden Loosestrife Beetle also feeds on the plant in a similar manner. It looks nearly identical to N. calmariensis but lacks the black line on its thorax. Both beetles have shown to be extremely effective and have defoliated over 90% of the plants in some areas. Both species have been released in North America.

Two other biological control agents have been released in North America. The Loosestrife Root Weevil Hylobius transversovittatus is a large red nocturnal weevil that feeds on leaves and buds while its larvae burrow into the root and feed on it for over a year. The root damage stunts the plants’ growth and hinders seed production. The Flower Weevil Nanophyes marmoratus is a tiny weevil that lays a single egg in each flower. The larvae emerge and feed on the flower’s ovaries preventing seed production. It then hollows out the flower bud and pupates there.

Caterpillars of the Engrailed Moth Ectropis crepuscularia are also known to feed on purple loosestrife, but according to some sources they are also a pest themselves so they are not recommended as a biological control method.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. The key point of integrated management approaches is that you cannot simply perform one method, once, and hope it works. All methods usually require ongoing monitoring, repeated applications, and in some cases multiple methods. When it comes to invasive species replanting with native species is also often crucial to prevent the re-establishment of invasives after disturbing the environment in the process of removal.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In most cases of Purple Loosestrife removal the newly disturbed site should be replanted immediately because the bare soil will allow the seed bank of Purple Loosestrife seeds in the soil to germinate. They will then quickly re-invade the patch they were removed from. Exceptions include small isolated populations that have plenty of native species in among or around them as these will invade the bare soil given the chance. In this case, simply implement a monitoring program to ensure that any undesirable seedlings are removed before they regain a foothold there.

In the case of larger patches, a replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon completion of the removal of the Purple Loosestrife. To decide which native species to plant examine the local environment to see what is already growing nearby. Ideally, if possible, collect seeds the year before from the area and use those to replant upon removal of Purple Loosestrife. Otherwise, purchase native seeds or native plants from a local nursery specializing in producing plants for restoration. Do not simply buy plants from a regular garden nursery as you may be getting cultivars created by humans even if you think you are buying the native species. Finally, be sure to plant a variety of species to help recreate the biodiversity that was lost.

Ongoing Monitoring is the Last But Most Important Step

In all cases of invasive Purple Loosestrife removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Purple Loosestrife is an aggressive and prolific invader. If given the chance it will reestablish and outcompete planted vegetation if yearly monitoring is not put in place. Monitoring is simple. Each year return to the removal site and destroy any young plants before they have a chance to become established and set seed. Ideally, return to the site twice per year for at least five years, and then once a year after that to be sure they do not return. The added benefit, you will get to see the fruits of your labor when the ecosystem is returned to a healthier and more biodiverse state filled with native species.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Michigan Department of Agriculture and Rural Development Weed Risk Assessment for Lythrum salicaria https://www.michigan.gov/documents/invasives/Lythrum_salicaria_WRA_576399_7.pdf

Ontario Invasive Plant Council Best Management Practices Purple Loosestrife http://www.ontarioinvasiveplants.ca/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Purple-Loosestrife-BMP-April-2016-final.pdf

Purple Loosestrife ‘Naturalized’ in a Marsh photo from Wikipedia By Saffron Blaze. Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=15287781

Purple Loosestrife RxList.com https://www.rxlist.com/purple_loosestrife/supplements.htm

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia Purple Loosestrife

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Purple Passionflower Passiflora incarnata - Native Plant of the Week

Passiflora incarnata Purple Passionflower in bloom from Nashville, TN. Lyrae Willis photo.
Passiflora incarnata Purple Passionflower in bloom from Nashville, TN. Lyrae Willis photo.

Purple Passionflower Maypop Passiflora incarnata – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

Maypop, Purple Passionflower Passiflora incarnata is a gorgeous vine native throughout the eastern USA. Like all passion flowers its beautiful flowers are unique and characteristic of the Passiflora genus. It is a fairly vigorous vine with pretty leaves and can grow in a multitude of places. It has a long interesting use by the indigenous people of North America. The Cherokee in particular have a long cultural history with this plant and who have likely been cultivating them for at least 3000 years.

I found my first Passiflora incarnata plant on the edge of a sidewalk in Nashville, TN, USA. Seeing its beautiful, large lovely flower growing happily in among the nonnative grasses was exciting for me. I always love to see beautiful native species that are tough enough to grow in the difficult conditions created by humanity. It gives me a lot of respect for those plants that were here long before us, but yet continue to thrive here despite us. If I lived in that area I would fill my garden and cover my fences with this lovely native vine. The added bonus is that it is also a host to so many gorgeous native butterflies so it would make a perfect addition to any butterfly garden as well. See section on Growing Purple Passionflower in Your Garden below.

Description of Maypop or Purple Passionflower

Stem & Leaves

Passiflora incarnata Purple Passionflower plant in bloom also showing the deeply 3 lobed leaves. Nashville, TN.

Maypop is a herbaceous perennial vine 6 – 9 m in length that dies back each winter. It is a tendril climber with numerous tendrils it produces from its axils along the length of its stem. The tendrils are used to cling onto surfaces allowing it to climb. The stems are terete in cross-section and they may be either pubescent or hairless. It grows from a deep and far-spreading fibrous root system that regularly produces suckers that help it spread vegetatively.

The leaves are arranged alternately on the stem. They are deeply 3(-5) palmately lobed and roughly symmetric, 4 – 12 (-22) cm by 4 – 12 (-30) cm in size. The middle lobe may or may not be longer than the lateral lobes. Their leaves’ edges are finely toothed and their lower side veins are prominently raised. They may be sparsely to moderately hairy and are somewhat pungent in smell. They have linear-setaceous stipules that are 3 – 5 mm by 0.5 mm in size. The leaves are petiolate (having leaf stalks). Their petioles have two characteristic glands at their base that are pungent in smell.

Flowers & Fruits

The flowers appear from April – October, but depending on location can occasionally be seen flowering in March or November. The large flowers are approximately 5 cm in diameter and are borne singly on a long peduncle (flower stalk). They are fragrant with a pleasant odor. The calyx consists of 5 white sepals that are partially joined (connate) at the base. There are 5 bluish-white petals arranged alternately between the sepals that may or may not appear similar in size and color to the sepals. Next, there is a corona of wavy purple fine filaments radiating out from the center between the petals and the reproductive organs. The filaments in some rare cases may even be white. This corona of filaments is a unique feature characteristic of the entire Passiflora genus.

The reproductive organs are frequently as showy as the corona of filaments and add to the unique beauty of this genus. Purple Passionflower has 5 whitish to yellow stamens with horizontally attached whitish to yellow anthers. The stamens are arranged centrally in the middle of the flower. In the very center of the flower on the inside of the stamens is an ovary with 3 styles topped with stigmas that radiate outwards in a central whorl.

Its fruit is often referred to as a Maypop or a granadillo. It is a green or greenish-yellow berry about the size of an egg that turns orange when ripe. The common name Maypop apparently comes from the fact that the fruits “may pop” when you step on them. Depending on the maturity of the vine there may be as many as 10-20 egg-sized fruits on a single vine. The fleshy arils around the seeds are edible and vary in flavor but are potentially quite sweet and tasty.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Passiflora incarnata in its flowering state is virtually impossible to confuse with any other genus as Passiflora (part of the Passifloraceae family) flowers all have such unique flowers. However, they could be misidentified within the Passiflora genus. In its native range there are multiple Passiflora species both native and introduced. However, the majority of them have tiny flowers by comparison (1 – 2 cm diameter at the most compared to the 5 cm diameter of Passiflora incarnata). The other Passiflora species’ flowers are almost exclusively whitish to yellow in color making them difficult to mistake them for P. incarnata. There are however two introduced species found so far only in Florida that have naturalized in a few locations, that could potentially be mistaken for Passiflora incarnata. The differences are as follows:

  • Passiflora edulis – this one has larger stipules, to about 10 mm long, more coarsely serrated leaf margins, larger leaf-like floral bracts to 17 x 8 mm in size, and an androgynophore base that is expanded much more abruptly as opposed to gradually. It has a limited distribution in the USA, it is found naturalized only in southern Florida. However, it is frequently cultivated for its edible fruits.
  • Passiflora “Incense” is an artificial hybrid between P. incarnata and P. cincinnata from South America. It is only found in cultivation but could be confused in gardens with P. incarnata. It differs from P. incarnata in its five-lobed leaves and larger floral bracts that are 15 x 10 mm in size.

Distribution of Maypop Passiflora incarnata

Purple Passionflower is found only in the eastern USA. It is not present in Canada, Mexico, or anywhere else globally in the wild. However, it is popular in Europe as a garden plant for its beautiful flowers and its popular use in herbal medicine.

In the USA, Maypop is found in Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Delaware, Maryland, Washington DC, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey. In Tennessee, it is the state wildflower.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Purple Passion Flower

Maypop grows in open woods, prairies, savannas, dunes, pastures, fields, riverbanks, and disturbed areas such as roadsides, railroads, cleared land, and other human disturbances. It grows in a number of soil types including clayey, loamy, sandy, dry to moderately moist. It is highly tolerant of drought but can even occasionally tolerate wet and acidic soils. Maypop is tolerant of full sun and partial shade. It will not grow in the full shade of a forest canopy.

It is often found growing in very poor soil in disturbed areas. Because of this, its range has likely been expanding. For instance, it has been found sporadically growing north of southern Illinois and southern Ohio which were considered its most northern limit previously. It is able to spread over large areas due to suckers from its deep, spreading roots.

Growing Purple Passionflower in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They also provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well as the aesthetic beauty they provide.

Choose a nice sunny location. If you live in a particularly hot area try to choose a spot that gets a bit of afternoon shade when the sun is hottest. Plant the plants or seeds in loamy well-drained soil. If your yard has poor soil they will still grow in it but you should mulch them annually with organic compost in order to provide them with food to give you better blooms and a better fruit harvest.

If your soil is clayey or wet however you will need to dig out a pit of soil approximately 75 cm cubed and place gravel in the bottom then fill it with sandy loam and create a mound to plant your plant or seeds in to provide it with better drainage as they will not grow well in waterlogged soils.

Finally, you will need a trellis, fence, arbor, or some other structure for your vines to climb on as they grow each spring.

Pests

Aphids, white flies and spider mites may all infect your vines. If this happens you can treat them with diluted neem oil. It is a potent natural insecticide that will not harm the plant.

Winter Maintenance

Because the plant is a herbaceous perennial it will die back in the winter at which time you can cut the vines back to the ground. If there are still fruits on the plant that were not eaten however, try leaving them for winter forage for wildlife and cut them down once the fruits are all gone.

If you live in an area with particularly cold winters you can grow your plants in large pots and store them indoors or in a garage for the winter, then put them out each spring. Alternatively, you can add a winter mulch to the top of the soil to protect the roots in the ground for the winter.

Wildlife Values

Like most Passiflora species Passiflora incarnata is host to many native butterfly species. These include Heliconius charithonia the zebra longwing, Heliconius erato the red postman or crimson-patched longwing, Dryas iulia or the Julia butterfly, Paratrea plebeja the plebeian sphinx moth, and Euptoieta claudia the variegated fritillary butterfly. It is also the exclusive host for the Gulf Fritillary Dione vanillae.

A number of animals and birds eat the fleshy seeds including deer, rabbits, wild turkeys, and several native bird species. Wild turkey and deer are also known to eat the vines themselves. Bees and hummingbirds are both known to frequently visit the flowers for the nectar they contain.

Status of Passiflora incarnata

Purple Passionflower is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In the USA Purple Passionflower is considered Locally Secure S5 in Virginia and North Carolina. In Kentucky it is Apparently Secure S4. It is Vulnerable S3 in Indiana. It is considered Imperiled S2 in West Virginia and Ohio. In all other states where it is found it is unranked.

Maypop is not found in either Canada or Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses of Maypop or Purple Passionflower

Purple Passionflower as Food

Purple Passionflower was widely used by the Cherokee people in the eastern USA and to this day is still an important part of their cultural heritage. They called it Ocoee which is where the Ocoee River and valley in Tennessee got their name. It is believed that they cultivated the plant for as much as 3000 years before the arrival of Europeans. The fruit was frequently eaten raw while the leaves were parboiled then fried with grease and salt and eaten as a potherb. Young shoots and leaves were also boiled and fried and eaten with other greens. They also crushed the fruit and made it into a popular beverage.

Passiflora incarnata Medicinal Uses

The Cherokee people also used Passiflora incarnata for multiple medicinal purposes. As a dermatological aid, the pounded roots were used to draw out inflammations while an infusion of the roots was used to treat boils. Sometimes the leaves were used in a poultice to treat burns and wounds. An infusion of the roots was given to babies to aid in weaning. A warm infusion of the beaten root was dropped into the ear to treat earaches. The Cherokee also used an infusion of the roots to treat problems with the liver. The Houma people would take an infusion of the roots as a blood tonic.

Herbalists often recommend an infusion of the roots to treat anxiety, seizures, hysteria, and insomnia. It is particularly popular as a herbal remedy to aid in a night of restful sleep. Recent studies have confirmed its ability to help induce a restful sleep.

Maypop as an Ornamental

Due to its vigorous growth habit, its tolerance to a variety of conditions, and its beautiful flowers Maypop is widely grown as an ornamental garden vine. It can easily be trained to grow up fences and arbors where it shows off its beautiful flowers and provides value for butterflies and other wildlife.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Passiflora incarnata

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states. See above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely leaves and flowers as well as its useful properties and wildlife values.

If you are harvesting Passiflora incarnata from the wild as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers or leaves you see. If harvesting the roots dig up the roots of only one in every 20 plants you see in a healthy population. If possible dig around the side of the plant and only harvest some of its roots in an attempt to leave the plant alive once you are finished collecting the root. It has a prolific root system so this should not be an issue. Always harvest early or late in the day. Avoid harvesting in full sun as this reduces the quality of your harvest and increases the risk of damage to the plant.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits, leaves, or roots can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

Maypop can be eaten fresh or cooked upon picking. If using it medicinally, it can be dried for later use.

To dry the leaves simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried. If you are wanting to dry the fruits they will need to be cut into smaller pieces before drying to prevent rotting. Otherwise, they could also be dried more quickly in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting.

Once dried the leaves, fruits, and roots can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of harvest for my own reference. Do not grind or crush the leaves or roots until you are ready to use them. This keeps them as fresh as possible and preserves their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Guerrero FA, Medina GM. Effect of a medicinal plant (Passiflora incarnata L) on sleep. Sleep Sci. 2017;10(3):96-100. doi:10.5935/1984-0063.20170018

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Passiflora incarnata https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passiflora_incarnata

Willis, Lyrae (2021).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Scotch Broom Cytisus scoparius is an Invasive Species of North America

Cytisus scoparius Scotch Broom - Invasive in North America. Lyrae Willis photo from Sechelt, BC, Canada.
Cytisus scoparius Scotch Broom – Invasive in North America. Lyrae Willis photo from Sechelt, BC, Canada.

Introduction

Scotch Broom or Cytisus scoparius was a very familiar sight from my childhood growing up on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia, Canada. Every May to June the power-lines, gravel pits, logging roads, and other disturbed areas were a ‘sea of yellow’ with their yellow blooms. As a child, I did not realize this was a problem. But I learned when I was still a teenager that this was a highly invasive species that did not belong in my environment. I did not understand why it was left to grow unchecked. Why was it simply allowed to take over and replace the native salmon berries, trailing blackberries, and other delicious native species with significant wildlife values? Why was no one trying to remove the Scotch Broom?

Now I understand that things are more complicated than that. For one thing, invasive species were not really a concern many people had when I was still a child. Now there is so much more awareness. I tried to create awareness in my early 20s when I started my own local “Broom Busters” group. For a couple of years each early spring I would go out with a small handful of volunteers and cut down the broom from roadsides. I also contacted the local parks to report broom infestations and assisted with their removal. In other places I would rip out newly established plants by hand before they had a chance to grow.

Description of Cytisus scoparius

Leaves & Stems of Scotch Broom

Cytisus scoparius is a semi-deciduous erect or sprawling shrub of the Fabaceae (legume) family. It lives on average 6 – 15 years and sometimes up to 30 years. They are sometimes evergreen but become deciduous when the winters are colder or during summer droughts. It can grow up to 4 m tall and as much as 6 m across. When young its branches are upright but as it matures they often fall prostrate, particularly in areas with snow. Branches are five-angled and green. When young in particular, it photosynthesizes through their stems throughout the growing season. As they mature the branches become more brownish to grayish in color.

Scotch Broom grows from a deeply forked taproot. Like most members of the Fabaceae family, it has nitrogen-fixing bacteria in its root nodules that allow it to grow and thrive in poor soils.

On young growth the leaves are often solitary and sessile (without a leaf stalk). On mature growth the leaves become three-foliate and are either subsessile or have a petiole (leaf stalk). Leaflets are narrowly elliptic to obovate and are 5 – 20 mm long and 1.5 – 8 mm wide. The upper surface has scattered hairs and the lower surface is usually covered with short hairs.

Flowers & Fruits of Scotch Broom

Flowers are born in the axils of the one-year-old stems. They have pedicels (flower stalks) and are either in pairs or are solitary. The two-lipped calyx is hairless (glabrous) and the upper lip (partially connate sepal) has two teeth while the lower lip has three teeth. The teeth are much shorter than the lip so it makes it difficult to mistake it for a calyx with 5 sepals (lips). The flower itself is golden yellow and 15 – 25 mm long, looking much like a typical legume-type flower.

The fruits are typical legume-type pods except they are quite compressed. They are oblong and green when immature and are 2.5 – 7 cm long and 0.8 – 1.3 cm wide. When they mature they turn black. The pods have brown or white hairs along their margin but otherwise are glabrous. They are explosively dehiscent with a loud snap. In the summer near large patches you can hear the continual snapping as more and more pods split open scattering their seeds.

The seeds are small and black with 3 – 12 seeds per pod and up to 18,000 seeds per plant per year. The seeds can remain viable in the soil seed bank for up to 60 years. They are also resistant to low-temperature fires which may actually help encourage their germination. The seeds are somewhat unique in that have an elaiosome attached to them. An elaiosome is a small appendage that contains an oily substance that makes them attractive to ants. The ants then help to disperse the seeds over short distances.

Toxicity

While Scotch Broom is technically not poisonous it is considered unsafe to consume in any large quantity. This is because of its effect as a cardiac stimulant. It can cause dizziness, heart palpitations, sweating, and dilated pupils. However, no mortalities have been reported.

Similar Species Scotch Broom is Frequently Confused With

There are other species of broom-type plants, all from the same Fabaceae or legume family, that also go by the common name of “broom.” These are all non-native and introduced in North America. They are:

  • Striated Broom Cytisus striatus – often misidentified as Cytisus scoparius but has a much more restricted range in North America. C. striatus however, is more of a grey-green in color than C. scoparius. C .scoparius also has larger and more abundant flowers. The pods of C. striatus are densely white-hairy compared to only having hairs along the margin in C. scoparius.
  • French Broom Genista monspessulana – this superficially looks very similar. However the branches are not ridged, or green which allows for year-round differentiation. It also will not grow as tall, only reaching a maximum height of about 2.5 m. Furthermore, the seed pods are very covered with dense, long white hairs.
  • Spanish Broom Spartium junceum – this plant also superficially looks similar and grows to similar heights. However, it is summer deciduous, losing its leaves early on while it photosynthesizes through its stems. The stems are semi-succulent, grey-green, and rush-like in appearance. The pods are similar however to Scotch Broom, so use the branches to differentiate the two species.
  • Gorse Ulex spp – multiple species, another woody leguminous shrub with yellow flowers and small leaves. However, these are easily distinguished because they are armed with large thorns while Cytisus scoparius is thornless.

Native Distribution

Cytisus scoparius is native throughout central and western Europe east to Poland and Hungary. It is also native to northern Africa. It is very common in England and Scotland, hence the common name Scotch Broom. In Australia where it is also invasive, it is often referred to as English Broom.

Interestingly, Scotch Broom in its native habitat is capable of reaching densities where it is also treated as a weed. This is likely due to its ability to rapidly invade the disturbed sites that are abundant anywhere humanity is abundant. It has in recent years been listed as an invasive species in many European countries. This is of course controversial, as it should be. We should not consider native species as invasive. Instead, we should address the problems that helped them create monocultures in the first place. If you are interested in hearing more about ‘native invasive species’ check out my article Are Common Cattails an Invasive Native Species or Do Human Perceptions Need to Change?

Habitat Types Where Scotch Broom is Found

In its native environment, Scotch Broom is prolific in open areas, grasslands, heathlands, open forests, and disturbed areas. It is found from low to middle elevations and occasionally subalpine locations but is uncommon at high altitudes. This is likely due to its lack of hardiness to extreme cold. Scotch Broom can however tolerate moderate freezing temperatures. It seems to prefer Mediterranean-style and cool temperate climates.

Cytisus scoparius is usually found in full sun to partial shade. Full shade is not a habitat where Scotch Broom will grow. If it is found in open forest it will die out when the canopy closes as it will not grow in full shade.

Scotch Broom prefers drier sandy soils but can tolerate richer soils as long as they are not too wet. It can also tolerate very acidic soil conditions.

Human Uses of Scotch Broom

Scotch Broom was widely used as an ornamental and often still is. Newer horticultural varieties apparently pose no risk of invasiveness. However, improperly educated people still sell the seeds of the invasive type online. Sometimes inadequate labeling also leads to invasive Cytisus scoparius being sold in garden stores resulting in accidental introduction.

In herbal medicine, Cytisus scoparius is infused or made into a decoction. It is commonly used as a diuretic due to the presence of scoparin and is sometimes used to treat dropsy. Scotch Broom is also cathartic and a cardiac stimulant. It is said to be a better cardiac stimulant than digoxin (from foxglove) because it does not accumulate in the body. The flowers can also be made into a salve to treat gout. It was also sometimes used historically to induce abortions.

Cytisus scoparius is sometimes used as a substitute for hops, coffee, and capers. It was also used in the tanning of leather and as a yellow dye. The branches were used for brooms, for thatch roofs, and the bark was sometimes stripped and made into a rope.

In folklore and myth, the Scotch Broom was said to be a sign of plenty when there were lots of flowers. It was also used in weddings in place of rosemary. Its fragrance was said to tame wild dogs and wild horses. In Italy, it was burned to ward off witches.

Distribution of Cytisus scoparius in North America

Scotch Broom was first brought to Virginia for animal fodder in the 1800s. It was introduced to California and British Columbia as an ornamental in the mid-1800s. I was always told that the infestation in coastal BC was the result of 3 seeds planted by a Scottish immigrant on Vancouver Island. While I have no idea if that is true or not, it is a very prolific plant and it certainly could be true that 3 seeds alone caused the invasion. However, I do not blame the immigrant of course. Many invasive species were brought to North America that way. People moving to the new world often wanted to bring something from their homeland. And back then virtually no one understood what an invasive species was anyway so they had no idea of the future impact.

In Canada, Cytisus scoparius has been recorded in British Columbia, Prince Edward Island, and Nova Scotia. I do not know what it looks like in the Atlantic provinces but I have seen firsthand the scope of this plant’s invasiveness on Vancouver Island, the Sunshine Coast, and the Lower Mainland. There are what I call “seas of yellow” in the late spring when the Scotch Broom flowers. It is everywhere. It is also in the Okanagan and the Kootenays just not quite as widespread as it is in the coastal areas.

In the USA, Scotch Broom is found in the western states of Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Utah, Montana, as well as Alaska. It is fairly widespread in the eastern states where it is found in Michigan, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina, South Carolina, West Virginia, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New York, New Jersey, Washington DC, Pennsylvania, Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Maine. It is also present in Hawaii. According to iNaturalist it has also been recently discovered and confirmed in Colorado, Kansas, and Texas. It is also suspected of being present in multiple other states so it is definitely still expanding its range.

In Mexico Cytisus scoparius so far has only been reported and confirmed in the Mexico City area. However, it is also present on the northern border on the USA side in San Diego, California so it is likely in northern Baja California, or will be soon. It has also been reported on the USA side of the border in El Paso, Texas. It will likely continue to spread south into northern Mexico as it continues to spread in the southern USA.

Scotch Broom has been introduced on every continent except for Antarctica. It is considered highly invasive in several areas outside of North America.

How Scotch Broom Spreads

It is primarily spread through long-distance by deliberate human introductions in gardens, and accidental introduction through seed transport in clothing, shoes, pets, tools, vehicles, outdoor toys, etc. It can also be easily transported in gravel due to its preference for gravelly habitats.

Ship ballast water is another source of long distance dispersal.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through the ants that are attracted to the elaiosomes (oily appendages) on their seeds. Birds and other wildlife also transport seeds. Short distance dispersal also occurs through humans on clothing and shoes as well as vehicles, pets, etc. It also spreads even more locally due to its explosively dehiscent fruit pods that can send the seeds several meters away from the parent plant.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Highly invasive Cytisus scoparius introduced from Scotland
“Seas of Yellow” under the powerlines in Sechelt, BC, Canada.

In North America, Scotch Broom seems particularly invasive in western North America. It can sometimes be locally quite common in eastern North America. However, it likely has a harder time competing with the lush and relatively aggressive native and non-native vegetation already present there. Still, it is a common sight along roadsides in particular in eastern North America.

Scotch Broom thrives in disturbed habitats. It grows abundantly on roadsides, clearings, waste areas, power lines, and anywhere the land has been cleared for development or forestry. Roadside patches are problematic because they are an easy vector for accidental long-distance dispersal through their prolific seed production that can get carried on clothes, in shoes, and on pets. Disturbed sites are the most at risk of invasion by Scotch Broom (see the photo above under the power-lines in Sechelt, BC, Canada). This threat could be reduced significantly if replanting programs are immediately implemented after a disturbance.

Cytisus scoparius also invades both disturbed and undisturbed grasslands and replaces native grasses as the dominant vegetation type. It also invades open, mixed, or deciduous forests where there is enough light to gain a foothold.

Dunes are also at risk of invasion because it prefers sandy soils. It was used as a stabilizer for dune slopes and edges in both Canada and the USA before its invasiveness was realized.

Rangelands and agricultural lands are also at serious risk of invasion by Scotch Broom, costing ranchers and farmers in labor and money to remove them. They provide little forage value to livestock and they are invasive on farmlands.

Since it is a light-loving species dense closed-canopy forests are not at risk. Wetland habitats are also not apparently at risk due to their preference for drier soils. It is occasionally however found in riparian habitats though does not appear abundant in those areas. It can tolerate some degree of water-logging, as long as it is temporary.

Impacts of Invasion by Cytisus scoparius

Given a chance Cytisus scoparius grows rapidly and prolifically, crowding out other plants to create near monocultures if left unchecked. It destroys habitat and replaces local forage crops used by wild animals, birds, and insects. There are few native species that use Scotch Broom in any capacity.

In grasslands, it threatens our native grasses and significantly reduces species richness. It currently threatens already threatened native butterflies in these habitats. It is very aggressive and tends to outcompete the other native vegetation in these areas as well. To worsen matters, shade-tolerant non-native species such as Kentucky Bluegrass, St. John’s Wort, Wall Bedstraw, and many others will grow under the shade of Scotch Broom. As a result these shade-tolerant non-native species have a much higher proportion of vegetation cover in areas where Scotch Broom has invaded compared to grasslands without it.

In logging patches sometimes the rapid growth of Cytisus scoparius prevents tree seedlings from getting re-established. This costs the logging companies significant losses in terms of invasive species removal and replanting. In Oregon, USA alone it costs an estimated $47 million in lost timber production.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

There are native wildlife species that are known to browse on the leaves and/or seeds including deer, elk, mice, grouse, and quail. However, Scotch Broom dramatically reduces species richness in habitats that it invades, reducing its potential value. Even though native mice have been found to feed on the broom, studies have shown a reduction in deer mice population in habitats where Scotch Broom has invaded.

Methods to Remove Scotch Broom

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in many local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Scotch Broom. Do not plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species. Cultivars that are supposedly non-invasive have too frequently been found to be mis-labeled or otherwise shown to be invasive when it escapes into the wild.

Physical Control Methods

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

Physical methods to remove Scotch Broom generally involve cutting them down with hand cutters, loppers, hand saws, axes, machetes, or a small power saw, depending on the size of the shrub. Be sure to cut as close to ground level as possible.

Best Time to Remove Scotch Broom

The best time to remove Scotch Broom is anywhere from late fall to early spring before it has a chance to flower again as the seeds mature rapidly and remain viable in the soil bank for up to 60 years. You should never disturb the soil in a Broom patch from late spring to mid-fall. If you disturb the soil it will allow the prolific seeds to germinate and continue to grow the following year.

It is best to pull Scotch Broom after a rain when the ground is wet as the roots will come out of the ground much easier with less disturbance to any surrounding plants that may be present.

In areas of drought cutting in early spring when in flower or when the pods are still very immature can be a very effective method. Cutting followed by drought gives the Scotch Broom much less chance to survive. Simply cut them, dispose of the shrubs and then implement your monitoring program.

Removal Methods to Prevent Resprouting

In wetter areas however they should be removed completely, if at all possible. Cutting alone in these areas results in a higher proportion of plants re-sprouting from the remaining rootstock. Cutting does work better however on larger plants that are woody and no longer green at the base. If you are unable to remove the root them to help ensure against re-sprouting you can either peel the bark on the stump down to below ground level or chop into the stump several times with a hand ax. Both methods help reduce the rate at which they will re-sprout.

Hand-operated weed pullers work very well to remove the entire plant though they are labor-intensive. You can use loppers to cut off some of the lower branches first before using the weed puller. The largest ones may require a shovel to dig them out completely. Alternatively you can chop the stumps and leave them in the ground and let the yearly monitoring program deal with them.

Low-temperature fires are not an effective means of control because this actually encourages the germination of the seeds in the soil seed bank. Furthermore, sprouts will re-grow from burned stumps left in the ground, particularly in wetter climates. However, prescribed burning can be beneficial after physical removal to stimulate the seed germination followed by physical removal of the seedlings. This is a great way to help reduce the seed bank present in the soil.

Mulching in winter or early spring may help prevent seedling germination from areas where the Scotch Broom removal involves uprooting and disturbs the soil.

Mechanical Methods

Tractor-mounted mowers and other mechanical means are not recommended for large infestations as this typically spreads the seeds around and will destroy any native vegetation that may have still been growing there. Physical removal by manual means is labor-intensive, but remains the most viable method.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

Once the Scotch Broom has been cut down they should be burned on the spot if possible. Never just dump the shrubs with yard waste, even if they were not in seed when cut down due to the tenacity of the seeds. Yard waste dumping piles are often one of the worst sources of invasive species in our environment.

If you are unable to burn them in your area due to fire bans you can solarize them. To solarize you can put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into black garbage bags. Then leave them in full sun for 10-12 weeks to ensure they are no longer viable. Some sources recommend shorter times for solarization. However, Scotch Broom seeds are notoriously difficult to destroy so it is important they are solarized for as long as possible. Then they can be disposed of. When bringing them to a local garbage dump make sure you tell them they are invasive species so that they will bury them right away.

Chemical Control Methods

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Scotch Broom. And due to the nature of Scotch Broom, multiple applications are always needed.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control Methods

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other biological agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the old example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of seeds to actually control the Scotch Broom on their own. Results this high are seldom achieved in the field. However, using biological control as part of an integrated management approach can be very effective. Following is a list of biological control methods that have been used in North America to reduce the population densities of Cytisus scoparius.

Insects Used for Biological Control

The broom twig mining moth Leucoptera spartifoliella was first released in California in 1960 where it reportedly did significant damage, though the plant is still highly invasive there today. It was later discovered to be already present in Washington state through accidental introduction back in 1941 and the plant is still highly invasive in that region as well. There have been better results with Leucoptera spartifoliella reported in Australia and New Zealand.

The broom seed beetle Bruchidius villosus has been used with some success in New Zealand and Australia where up to 60% of seeds were seen to be eaten. It was accidentally introduced in eastern North America and then later moved to western North America where it has reportedly caused significant damage to Scotch Broom populations. In North Carolina, USA, where it was introduced some years ago it has been found to reduce seed production by 80%. The broom seed beetle is useful in that it feeds on the seeds of both Scotch Broom and Striated Broom so it would be useful in areas such as California where both are present in abundance.

The Scotch Broom seed weevil Exapion fuscirostre is specific to Scotch Broom. It was released in California in 1964 where it was seen destroying 60-90% of seeds produced on site. In Oregon, it was found to attack 40-60% of pods and of those pods, it destroyed an average of 85% of the seeds contained within.

The broom gall mite Aceria genistae was approved for release in New Zealand in 2001 but its maximum dispersal rate has been shown too slow to be of likely benefit to land uses threatened by Scotch Broom. It was recently found in King County, Washington but was not approved for release there so studies are still ongoing.

The sap-sucking broom psyllid Arytainilla spartiophila was released in New Zealand and Australia in the 1990s with some success. In North America, however, it was accidentally introduced into California and showed little success, likely due to the high mortality observed in the psyllid.

Mycoherbicides Used for Biological Control

Mycoherbicides, the use of fungi to harm or destroy the invasive plants are currently being investigated. Chondrostereum purpureum has been field-tested in Canada. Fusarium tumidum is being developed as a mycoherbicide in New Zealand.

Animals Used for Biological Control

Domestic goats and sheep will eat Scotch Broom. Grazing animals are only a viable option when they are to remain in place for many years. Domestic goats in particular will eat just about anything, but my readers told me that Sheep will eat this too. Grazers are especially useful in young patches rather than large, mature, well-established stands of Scotch Broom. The animals would need to be contained in a fence or on a lead that keeps them only in the Scotch Broom patch so that they cannot eat the native species that might be present there. However, as the stumps will continue to regrow for many years if the animals are removed the patch will very quickly be reestablished. This is why the grazers would either need to remain for many years or be used as part of an Integrated Management approach.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is usually the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In all cases of Scotch Broom removal, the site should be replanted immediately. This is because the bare soil resulting from the removal of Scotch Broom will allow the seed bank in the soil to rapidly germinate and re-invade the patch. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon removal of the Scotch Broom. Replanting should be timed appropriately for the region in terms of establishment success (usually early or mid spring). Furthermore, the species planted should be local ecotypes of native species already present in the area if at all possible. As the native species grow and fill in the area it provides less available habitat for Scotch Broom. Replanting must be followed by ongoing monitoring.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential for Success

In all cases of invasive Scotch Broom removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. This is regardless of the type of control method used and whether or not replanting was also done. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. It is also necessary to remove any seedlings that sprout in the newly disturbed soil. Scotch Broom is aggressive and prolific and will quickly outcompete planted or natural vegetation if yearly monitoring is not put in place.

References and Resources

CABI on Cytisus scoparius https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/17610 **CABI now charges for access to these

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Fire Effects Information System on Scotch Broom https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/shrub/cytspp/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia French Broom https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genista_monspessulana

Wikipedia Spanish Broom https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spartium

Willis, Lyrae (2021).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

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If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!



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Hedera helix - invasive English Ivy growing on a native tree
Hedera helix – invasive English Ivy growing on a native tree in Georgia

Introduction

Most people know what common Ivy or English Ivy is. It is the common name for Hedera helix, a member of the Araliaceae (Ginseng) family. Sometimes Hedera hibernica, a very closely related and difficult to distinguish species known as Irish Ivy is also sold under the name English Ivy. Many people have them as houseplants, or have them in their gardens, or see them growing up trees in the forests around them. They are a common garden ornamental still widely sold in stores in a variety of different cultivars that wreak havoc in our natural ecosystems. A lot of money is spent every year on the removal of English Ivy from private and public lands.

One of the reasons that Hedera helix and Hedera hibernica are problem invasive plants is that they are capable of invading wild forests and disturbed sites alike. Many introduced plants that gain a foothold in our environment do so because they thrive in human disturbance. English Ivy, on the other hand, thrives in a multitude of ecosystems and a multitude of disturbance regimes, making it particularly invasive.

Description of Hedera helix and Hedera hibernica

Leaves & Stems of Hedera helix

English Ivy is a trailing or climbing evergreen vine or shrub growing from thin and shallow roots. In its native habitat it even occasionally grows as a tree. It can form a ground cover 10 – 20 cm tall in its juvenile phase but will climb when a structure is available. When it climbs it grows into a reproductive adult phase where it commonly reaches heights of 30 m. When growing in tall conifers it can even reach heights of up to 90 m. Climbing or older trailing branches start out thin but can reach diameters of 10 – 30 cm with furrowed bark when they mature. The bark is green when young and becomes grey with age.

English ivy is a root climbing vine that grows small roots along its length that exude a sticky substance. This substance in addition to the root structures themselves allow them to grasp and cling onto the surfaces they climb.

The alternate leaves are usually 10 cm long and 6 – 13 cm wide on a 1.5 – 2 cm long petiole (leaf stalk). The leaves are 3 – 5 lobed in their juvenile phase but may become unlobed in their adult phase. The leaves may be solid green or variegated in several shades of dark and light green. The surface is a glossy green with light veins while the underside of the leaves are more pale and not glossy.

Flowers & Fruits of Hedera Helix

Flowers are yellowish-green and very small. They are clustered in groups of 8 – 10 in umbels on the adult stems. The umbels grow in clusters of 3 – 6 umbels per group. The flowers are very rich in nectar and provide an important food source for many birds in their native habitat.

The fruit is a berry 5 – 9 mm long and 6 – 9 mm wide. It is green at first but becomes dark purple-black with maturity, looking somewhat like a grape. Occasionally the fruits of Hedera helix may be orange-yellow in color. The fruits mature through the fall and into winter and each contains 2 – 5 seeds that are each 5.7 by 3.7 mm in size.

Berries of Hedera helix English Ivy photo by Petr Filippov
Berries of Hedera helix English Ivy photo by Petr Filippov

Toxicity

The berries and to some degree the leaves are mildly poisonous to humans and animals. They can also cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals. Dermatitis usually only happens to those with a specific allergy to the Araliaceae family or the closely related Apiaceae (Carrot) families.

Distinguishing Hedera helix and Hedera hibernica

Recent studies have indicated that as many as 83% of the populations in Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia may in fact be Hedera hibernica and not Hedera helix as was previously thought. The two species are incredibly difficult to tell apart aside from slight differences in highly variable characteristics. As a result, taxonomically there has been some debate as to whether H. hibernica is a distinct species or simply a subspecies or even a variety of Hedera helix. Hedera hibernica should probably be considered a subspecies because they are virtually impossible to tell apart unless you are a trained botanist. Genetic or microscopic analysis is often required to tell the two species apart.

However, if you have enough experience seeing both species there are some subtle differences that will help you determine the species. But keep in mind that morphological features like leaves and smell are variable and subjective so these alone cannot be relied upon if you require more certainty in your identification. Having said that, the main distinguishing factors are as follows. The leaf veins on Hedera helix are more pronounced and whiter in color than those of Hedera hibernica. Hedera hibernica also has a slightly larger leaf that is usually a slightly lighter green than Hedera helix. Some people claim that Hedera helix smells slightly musty while Hedera hibernica smells somewhat sweet and is more resinous. Apparently, the berries of Hedera helix may at times be orange in color instead of the purple-black that both species usually are.

The one reliable distinguishing characteristic is difficult to use if you are not educated in plant identification. This is the fact that the Hedera species can be differentiated by their trichomes (hairs) on the leaf surfaces. This requires a strong hand lens or a dissecting microscope to view properly. Hedera helix trichomes are erect, bristly, and 0.75–1.062 mm in size. The trichomes of Hedera hibernica on the other hand lie parallel to the leaf surface and are 0.4–0.875 mm in size. The orientation and size of the trichomes are the only truly reliable distinguishing factors that I was able to find in my research.

Native Distribution of Hedera helix

Hedera helix is native to Eurasia from Ireland south to Portugal and northern Africa and east to Scandinavia, Turkey, Ukraine, and Iran. It is quite tolerant of cold winters down to -23 Celsius. It prefers cool, moist deciduous or mixed forests in its native range.

Hedera hibernica is native to the Atlantic coast of Europe. It is less cold-hardy than Hedera helix so its range is more limited. It prefers cool, moist deciduous forests in its native range.

Human Uses of English Ivy

Hedera helix and Hedera hibernica are widely used as ornamental vines both indoors in hanging pots and outdoors in gardens. The use of Ivy is widely promoted by horticulturalists and amateur gardeners and it remains a very popular garden plant throughout North America, despite knowledge of its invasiveness in our region.

English and Irish Ivy are sometimes used to grow on the side of buildings where they provide aesthetic qualities as well as some insulation. Although they can also cause minor structural damage.

The leaves and berries of Hedera helix are sometimes used in herbal medicine as an expectorant for coughs and colds as well as bronchitis. They are said to reduce the swelling and blockage of the airways, reduce bronchial swelling and help bring up mucus from the lungs. Some herbalists also recommend it to help treat liver, spleen and gallbladder disorders as well as gout, joint pain and swelling, and scrofulosis. Some herbalists recommend a wash made from the leaves as a means to treat sore or watering eyes.

Habitat Types Where English Ivy is Found

English ivy tends to invade forest edges and clearings allowing it to penetrate deeper into the forest over time. It is also found in fields, pastures, cliffs, slopes, and disturbed areas. It prefers deciduous or mixed forests but is occasionally also found in coniferous forests. Its preference for moisture and deciduous plants also make it a common inhabitant of riparian ecosystems.

Hedera helix and Hedera hibernica grow in both shade and full sun habitats. They grow in moderately fertile and moderately but consistently moist soil types. English Ivy tolerates a fairly wide range of soil pH, though 6.5 is an ideal pH for it. Both species are intolerant of drought and salinity.

Distribution of Hedera helix or Hedera hibernica in North America

English Ivy was first brought to the eastern United States as far back as 1727 when it was brought as an ornamental vine. It was first officially documented in Virginia, USA in 1800.

In Canada, Hedera helix has been recorded in British Columbia and Ontario. According to some sources, much of the English Ivy in British Columbia is Hedera hibernica. Both species, however, are very invasive in British Columbia. So far it has not spread elsewhere in Canada though the maritime provinces in particular are likely at risk of invasion.

In the USA, English Ivy is widespread throughout the eastern USA including Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, West Virginia, Virginia, Maryland, New York, New Jersey, Washington DC, Pennsylvania, Connecticut, Massachusetts, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, and Mississippi. It is also found in the south in Texas, Arizona, and Utah and in the west in Idaho, California, Oregon, and Washington. English Ivy is also present in Hawaii. It is believed that much of the English Ivy in the Pacific Northwest is actually Hedera hibernica, though both appear particularly invasive in this region.

In Mexico, Hedera helix has been found throughout central, western, and northern Mexico. It has been reported in Baja California (norte), Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo Leon, Durango, Sinaloa, Jalisco, Aguascalientes, Guanajuato, Michoacan, Mexico State, Mexico City, Puebla, Veracruz, Hidalgo, Queretaro, Tlaxcala, Guerrero, Oaxaca, and Chilapas. It is in the southern US on the northern border of Sonora and Tamaulipas so it is likely already there or will be soon. So far it has not been reported anywhere in southeastern Mexico in the Yucatan peninsula area.

How English Ivy Spreads

English Ivy spreads mostly vegetatively through rooting stems or from fragments of stems or roots. Hedera helix or Hedera hibernica can both reproduce sexually by seed when they achieve their adult phase. However, sexual maturity usually only occurs in open or disturbed habitats. Sometimes climbers that are able to achieve a sufficient amount of sunlight also reach a sexual reproductive phase. In forests and riparian zones, vegetative reproduction is far more common.

Birds eat the fruits and spread the seeds short distances this way. Birds in North America that eat the seeds include the European Starling, Stellar’s Jay, Mockingbird, American Robin, House Sparrow, and Cedar Waxwing. Usually, the birds regurgitate the seeds rather than defecate them, however, so this dispersal method only works on short distances.

It is primarily spread through long-distance by deliberate human introductions in gardens as an ornamental vine or ground cover. Sometimes they can spread from the careless disposal of unwanted houseplants or yard waste.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Deciduous forests and riparian habitats are particularly at risk of invasion because this is their preferred habitat. English Ivy threatens all levels of vegetation from the ground to the top of the canopy due to its tolerance of both shade and full sun.

Both Hedera helix and Hedera hibernica appear to be particularly invasive in the Pacific Northwest of the United States and British Columbia, Canada. The temperate mixed rainforests present ideal growing conditions. There is also not many native vines in the region to compete for the climbing niches.

English Ivy has often been considered less invasive in eastern North America. The only reason I found for this was a reference to its infrequent seed production. However, it reproduces far more often vegetatively than through seeds anyway so that is hardly a reason to consider it less invasive. In my travels to the eastern USA, I noticed a lot of areas invaded by English Ivy. There are also a lot of other very vigorous native and introduced vines in the region, such as Virginia Creeper and Kudzu, for example. This creates a lot of competition and this, I believe, is the primary reason that it does not appear to be as invasive in the east.

From my experience though, I still saw it behave invasively throughout many areas in Georgia in particular. I also noticed this in parts of North and South Carolina, Virginia, Alabama, Kentucky, and Tennessee. It is considered invasive in some eastern states including Georgia, Kentucky, Alabama, Tennessee, and Washington DC. And despite earlier claims that it was not a threat in the Great Lakes or southern USA regions, recent studies suggest it is becoming an aggressive invader in those regions as well.

Because Hedera helix and Hedera hibernica are both intolerant of droughts they will not invade desert areas. English Ivy is also intolerant of salinity so it will not grow on beaches, in estuaries, or next to brackish waters.

Impacts of Invasion

English Ivy is an aggressive invader that climbs and damages native trees where it becomes established. They cover the trunk and branches of the trees blocking light from reaching the leaves and interfering with the process of photosynthesis. Large trees will slowly decline and eventually die after a period of several years to a decade or more from this. Young trees are particularly vulnerable in that they can be more quickly pulled down and killed by the weight of the ivy growing on them.

Where ivy becomes particularly dense as a ground cover it can create a monoculture. In this state, it effectively blocks out all other vegetation from growing in that location. Because it can live for a very long time (50 to 70 years, with some reports from Europe in the hundreds of years), this can be a real problem for biodiversity.

English Ivy on houses can damage walls and invade gutters creating blockages. It can also pull gutters off the roof and climb under roofing causing leaks. I have seen it climb through walls into the interior of homes.

English Ivy also holds bacterial leaf scorch (Xylella fastidiosa) which is a plant pathogen. This pathogen is damaging to native elms, oaks, and maples as well as a variety of other native and ornamental trees and shrubs.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

The berries do provide a food source for some of our native birds. However, only mature vines in open sunlit areas are capable of providing this food value. Those damaging the forests offer no food source to our native animals or birds.

Methods of Removal of English Ivy

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. English Ivy, sadly like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in local garden stores. So much so that there is the “American Ivy Society”, a non-profit society “dedicated to preserving the genus Hedera“. As though this invasive species is in need of preservation in the Americas. The irony of that astounds me. Hopefully I am not being too offensive by saying that. But there is not a single species of Hedera that is native to the Americas, and the genus is incredibly invasive on our continent. Instead, maybe they should focus on the preservation of the native species threatened by the genus Hedera.

Moving on, prevention is key. Do not buy or transport any English Ivy. Do not plant it in your yard. Research vines native to your region and plant those instead. If you have an Ivy as a houseplant and no longer want it, burn it or kill it by some other means before disposing of it to prevent it from growing in garbage dumps or yard waste piles.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Physical Control Methods

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means to remove English Ivy. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

Removal of Climbing VInes of English Ivy

To remove climbing English Ivy cut the vines near their bases then you can pull the vines down out of the trees. You also need to remove the root or the vine will simply grow back so dig the roots out as well. Roots are easiest to pull after a good rain when the ground is wet. If the ivy is in your yard you can always water the area first before removing the English Ivy. Fortunately, ivy is not very deep-rooted so they are not too challenging to get the roots out.

Occasionally you will be unable to remove the roots of a climbing vine. For example, when they are at the base of a small native tree and you are concerned you will damage or kill the native tree. In this case, you will need to return and repeatedly cut back the stump as it tries to grow. Eventually, without green leaves for photosynthesis, it will die.

Removal of Sprawling Vines of English Ivy

To remove English Ivy that is sprawling as a ground cover, again it is best done after a rain when the ground is wet. Start pulling from the edge of the patch and work your way in from there. Try to get all the roots out which can be challenging because sprawling vines will root in multiple places along their length anywhere the vine itself comes into contact with soil.

If you are looking for a less labor-intensive method and you have a relatively small patch of ground cover in full sun that is 100% ivy you could try solarizing. Put heavy black plastic on top of the vines and weigh it down with rocks. Leave it for 8-10 weeks to smother the plants then remove the plastic and save it for something else. This only works in full sun and is not recommended if native plants are still growing with the ivy.

In all cases of ground cover patch removal, the site will need to be replanted immediately because the bare soil will allow the ivy or other potentially invasive species to invade the newly disturbed area. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon the removal of English Ivy.

Disposal of the Vines Once Removed

Once the English Ivy has been removed the vines should be burned to ensure they will not propagate elsewhere. Never just dump the vines with yard waste. Yard waste dumping piles are often one of the worst sources of invasive species in our environment. If you are unable to burn them in your area due to fire bans you can put the vines under a heavy tarp or into garbage bags and solarize them. Leave them in a pile under the tarp or in black garbage bags in full sun for 8-10 weeks to ensure they are no longer viable. Then they can be disposed of.

Chemical Control Methods

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly impact any native species during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used almost always show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only English Ivy. This means that any application on climbing English Ivy could potentially damage the tree that it is climbing on. Furthermore, even in ground cover patches, the glossy leaves make application of chemicals challenging. Furthermore, Hedera helix is resistant to multiple herbicides.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control Methods

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other biological agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to the target organism. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations. Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study.

There are currently no biological control methods that specifically target English Ivy. Due to its huge popularity as a garden plant, it is unlikely that one will be developed.

Domestic goats can be a viable option for ground cover patches that are 100% ivy. Domestic goats will eat just about anything, including ivy. This makes them effective at controlling ivy. However, the goat would need to be contained in a fence or on a lead that keeps them only in the ivy patch so that they cannot eat the native species that might be present there since they will eat anything. The roots left behind will however still re-grow so integrated management practices will be required. This includes following up with the physical removal of roots or repeated grazing by goats, coupled with ongoing monitoring.

Integrated Management and Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management involves the use of multiple control and monitoring methods to control an invasive species. In the case of English Ivy, it mostly involves the physical removal of the English Ivy followed by replanting and ongoing monitoring.

Replanting is Crucial

Replanting of ground cover sites where large areas of English Ivy is removed is essential to prevent the ivy or other invasive species from taking over the newly disturbed ground. A replanting program should already be in place before the removal of English Ivy begins. Native species should always be the preferred choice for replanting. Research native species suitable for that area. If at all possible gather seed stock or cuttings from local plants in your area to ensure you have ecotypes suitable to your area. Otherwise purchase native plants from a local nursery that specializes in ecological restoration to ensure you have the wild types and not cultivars.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

Afterwards, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Even if you replant the site and think you pulled all of the roots there will still be root and stem fragments left in the soil that will re-grow. Left unchecked this regrowth can take over your native plants and lead to an entire new infestation given enough time. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. Simply return to the site each spring or summer and pull out any new regrowth that is seen.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Fire Effects Information System on Hedera helix https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/vine/hedhel/all.html

Hedera helix berries photo from Wikipedia By Petr Filippov – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1894902

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Invasive.org page on Hedera helix https://www.invasive.org/alien/pubs/midatlantic/hehe.htm

M.Strelau, D.R.Clements, J.Benner, and R.Prasad. The Biology of Canadian Weeds: 157. Hedera helix L. & H. hibernica (G. Kirchn.) Bean. Canadian Journal of Plant Science. 98(5): 1005-1022. https://doi.org/10.1139/cjps-2018-0009

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Ghost Plant Indian Pipe Monotropa uniflora - Native Species

Monotropa uniflora growing on the forest floor, Photo by Lyrae Willis in Sechelt, BC, Canada
Monotropa uniflora growing on the forest floor, Photo by Lyrae Willis in Sechelt, BC, Canada

Ghost Plant Monotropa uniflora – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

Ghost Pipe, Ghost Plant, Indian Pipe, or Monotropa uniflora has always been one of my favorite native plants. It completely lacks chlorophyll and appears ghostly white in color, hence the common name. I have always loved what I refer to as ‘oddball plants’. These are plants that look, grow, or otherwise behave abnormal compared to most other plants. Ghost Pipe is most certainly an oddball plant that looks unlike almost all other plants. To the point it is occasionally mistaken for a fungus. Its ghostly white fleshy stems and unique flowers appear on the forest floor, much like a fungus, not requiring any sunlight for its nutrition.

It is sometimes referred to as a parasitic plant or a saprophyte. A parasitic plant feeds on living organic matter. A saprophyte is an organism that feeds on dead or decaying organic matter rather than living organic matter. It is currently being described instead as a mycoheterotroph. Mycoheterotrophy is a form of parasitism where the plant feeds on mycorrhizal fungi. Ultimately this means it gets its food from photosynthetic plants. It just does it by way of mycorrhizal fungi that get their food from the photosynthetic plant (usually forest trees). In the case of Monotropa uniflora, its fungal hosts are all members of the Russulaceae family.

Ghost Pipe is usually lumped into a broader Ericaceae (Heath) family with its other parasitic relatives as a subfamily of Ericaceae. Or if you are more of a splitter as I am and prefer your plant families to be more coherent and less morphologically variable for ease of identification, then they are part of the Monotropaceae family.

Description of Ghost Pipe, Ghost Plant, Indian Pipe

Stem & Leaves

The fleshy stems are rapid growing and seemingly ephemeral. They pop up on the forest floor when the conditions are just right for them, and then they seem to disappear almost as fast as they appeared. The plant is actually a perennial though. Like a fungus it spends most of its time underground. The stems usually grow from 5 – 30 cm long and are erect, solitary, and unbranched. They are usually a ghostly white color but can be grayish, pinkish, or rarely red in color.

The leaves are very reduced and appear nothing like normal leaves. They are only 5 – 10 mm in length and appear wrapped sheath-like around the stem. There are no petioles (leaf stalks) present. They often appear thin and somewhat translucent, but otherwise, the color is the same as the stem. Sometimes they are classified as bracts though botanically speaking they are a reduced leaf.

Flowers & Fruits

Monotropa uniflora flower detail from Wikipedia
Monotropa uniflora flower detail. Photo by Staben see credits below

The pedicels (flower stalk) are nodding when they first appear but then become erect as the flower matures. As the name Monotropa uniflora suggests it has a single flower that appears at the top of the stem. It has 5 (3-6) sepals that are similar in appearance to the surrounding bracts, translucent whitish in color. The sepals are 7 – 10 mm long and are lanceolate to oblong in shape. It has 5 (3-6) petals that are white to pinkish or reddish, sometimes tinged with grey. The petals are obovate in shape and 10 – 20 mm long. They have 10 elongated nectary lobes that help attract the bumblebees that visit their flowers and help spread their pollen.

There are about 10 (8-14) stamens with anthers that appear horizontally placed on top of their filaments. The ovary is 6 – 9 mm long, glabrous (without hair), or slightly hairy. The ovary has a 2 – 7 mm long style that is 2 – 5 mm wide and topped with a funnelform central stigma 2 – 6 mm in diameter that is not subtended by a ring of crowded hairs.

The fruit of Ghost Plant is a 5 segmented capsule 7 – 11 mm long and 5 – 12 mm wide with segments that persist after the seeds are dispersed. The seeds are membraneously winged and 0.5 – 1 mm long.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

It is difficult to confuse this achlorophyllous Ericaceae family member with most plants due to its ghostly white appearance. However, there is one other species found throughout most of the same range that it could be confused with. It is commonly referred to as Pinesap and its scientific name is Monotropa hypopitys or Hypopitys monotropa, depending on the source. They can be differentiated by Pinesap’s yellowish, orange, or reddish color and the fact that it rarely produces solitary flowers. Instead, the single stems end in a simple raceme of multiple flowers. Its modified leaves or bracts are also typically much darker orange or reddish in color compared to its yellowish or light orange stem. Pinesap rarely occurs white in color.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Monotropa uniflora

Ghost Pipe or Indian Pipe is found in mixed forests, oak forests, deciduous forests, beech woods, and even occasionally in tamarack bog forests.

Since it does not require sunlight to grow it can often be found on the forest floor of even dense second-growth forests. All it truly requires is that its mycorrhizal fungi hosts are available. Because of this it is always found in humus-rich forest soil beneath the trees that are host to its fungi hosts. It is usually found in full shade but may be in part shade depending on how open the forest canopy is.

Growing Ghost Plant in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range.

However, Ghost Pipe is a different sort of plant because it requires a fungal host which requires a tree to feed it. This means you can only grow them if you have a forested yard. If you have a forested yard, and have Russulaceae fungi growing in it but no Ghost Plant you could go out and harvest some seeds from the wild (following Ethical Wildcrafting principles of course) and then scatter them around the bases of the trees where you have seen the Russulas grow and you might get lucky and start your own population of Ghost Plant.

Wildlife Values of Ghost Plant

Being an ephemeral above-ground plant with no green leaves or edible fruit no wildlife values could be found. Native bees do however visit the flowers.

Distribution of Ghost Pipe Monotropa uniflora

In Canada, Monotropa uniflora is found throughout all of the southern provinces from British Columbia east to Newfoundland and Labrador. It is also found in the Northwest Territories but is absent from the Yukon Territories and from Nunavut.

In the USA, Indian Pipe or Ghost Plant is found throughout most of the continental USA excluding only the central states of Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, and South Dakota. It is also found in Alaska.

In Mexico, Indian Pipe or Pipa de Indio has been reported in the Sierra Madres of Chihuahua, also in San Luis Potosi, Veracruz, Mexico State, Mexico City, Tlaxcala, Michoacan, Puebla, and Hidalgo. It seems likely that it may be present in more states, particularly through the Sierra Madres. However, as is the case with many plants in Mexico they have not been assessed in great detail.

Ghost Pipe has a disjunct distribution also appearing in the northern part of South America. It is absent through Central America and the Caribbean. It is also native to parts of temperate Asia. However, the North American, South American, and Asian populations are all genetically distinct from each other. Though the North and South American populations are more closely related to each other than either is to the Asian populations. This may result in further taxonomic division of the species in the future.

Status of Monotropa uniflora

Ghost Pipe is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In Canada, Monotropa uniflora is considered locally secure S5 in British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Labrador. It is considered Apparently Secure S4 in Saskatchewan and Manitoba. In Alberta and Newfoundland it is considered Vulnerable S3. No data was found on its status in the Northwest Territories, though according to Canadensys it is located there.

In the USA, Ghost Plant or Indian Pipe is considered locally secure S5 in New Jersey, New York, West Virginia, and Kentucky. It is considered Apparently Secure S4 in Montana, Iowa, and North Carolina. In North Dakota and Florida it is considered Vulnerable S3. In California it is Imperiled S2, being quite rare and confined to the northern forests in the state where it is under threat from timber harvesting. It is Critically Imperiled S1 in Alaska, South Dakota, Nebraska, and Oklahoma. Note according to USDA Plant Database it was not currently found in South Dakota so the status there may be worse than suggested. In all other states where it was found, there is no status rank as is common with native plants in the USA where more assessments are still required.

No information on its status could be found for Mexico, again as is often the case for Mexico where more plant assessments are still required.

Traditional or Other Uses of Ghost Pipe or Indian Pipe

Monotropa uniflora Medicinal Uses

The Cherokee people used the pulverized root for children for fits, convulsions ,and seizures. The Potawatomi used an infusion of the root for various female problems.

The Cherokee also used the crushed plant on bunions and warts and they used the juice of the plant was mixed with water as a wash for sore eyes. The Thompson frequently used the crushed plant, burned stalk, or its dried and powdered form as a dermatological aid. It was particularly used for sores and wounds that were stubborn to heal.

The Cree used to chew the flowers for toothaches.

The Mohegan used an infusion of the plant and/or its roots for colds and fevers including as an analgesic for pain associated with fevers.

The Thompson peoples also used it as an indicator plant in that when they were abundant in the forest it meant that the coming mushroom harvest would also be abundant.

Since the early nineteenth century Monotropa uniflora has been used in herbal medicines as an anxiolytic to reduce anxiety. It is also used for psychosis, nervousness, irritability, restlessness, epilepsy and convulsion episodes.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Monotropa uniflora

Check the status of Ghost Plant in your province or state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states and provinces. See above section on Status.

If you are harvesting Monotropa uniflora always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 stems from a large healthy population, spreading your harvest around so you do not over pick in one area. Pick only as much as you will need for one year. They can be picked and placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Ghost Pipe or Indian Pipe can be used fresh upon picking or dried for later use.

To dry place them on a rack or a screen, leaving space between each stem to allow for air-flow. Because the stems are rather fleshy air-flow is going to be crucial to prevent molding. You can either place a fan in the room with them to encourage more airflow, or you can dry them in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting that it has.

Once dried they can be stored whole in glass jars until you are ready to use them. With all herbal medicines the best practice is to grind only a small amount at a time as needed to ensure freshness and preserve the medicinal properties.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia page on Monotropa uniflora https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monotropa_uniflora

Wikipedia picture of flower details By Staben – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8812140

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Flowering Rush Butomus umbellatus is an Invasive Species in North America

Butomus umbellatus flowering rush is an invasive species in North America
Butomus umbellatus flowering rush is an invasive species in North America

Introduction

Flowering Rush or Butomus umbellatus is an aquatic perennial from continental Eurasia and Africa. Despite its common name, it is not actually a rush which is part of the Juncaceae family in the Poales Order of Monocot plants. Flowering Rush is a member of the Butomaceae family of the Alismatales Order of Monocot plants. It is an invasive species in many parts of the world including North America, and once established removal of Flowering Rush can be challenging to say the least.

Butomus umbellatus has been spread around the world because of its use as an ornamental aquatic plant. It then escapes cultivation and wreaks havoc in native wetlands where it chokes out other vegetation. Please do not buy Flowering Rush for your garden as invasive aquatic plants are notoriously difficult to control once they become established. The best course of action would be to research what aquatic ornamentals are native to your area and plant those instead. There are also other non-native aquatic ornamentals that are non-invasive but again do your research for your specific region. Sometimes plants that are invasive in one area are not invasive in others due to differences in climate and other local factors.

Description of Butomus umbellatus

Leaves & Stems of Butomus umbellatus

Flowering Rush is an emergent aquatic perennial from stout rhizomes with bulbils that spontaneously break off and float away allowing it to reproduce vegetatively. In appearance it superficially looks quite similar to native rushes and sedges. The narrow linear leaves grow to 100 cm long, have no teeth, are parallel-veined, and often appear twisted. It has a round flower stem (scape) that can grow from 100 – 150 cm tall, which, without flowers makes it look similar to native rushes. The leaves are three-angled in cross-section, which can also make them easily confused with native sedges.

However, the umbel of pink flowers that appear on top will help you differentiate it from both native rushes and sedges. If you are not certain of the identification, wait for June to August when they are in flower to identify. Then you can mark it with a colorful flagging tape if you need to return to remove it in a season when it is not flowering.

Flowers & Fruits of Butomus umbellatus

Butomus umbellatus produces large clusters of pink flowers in umbels on top of the 100 – 150 cm long scape. Each bisexual flower is from 2 – 3 cm across and is light pink in color with darker veins. It has tepals rather than petals and sepals. Its outer tepals (sepals) are elliptic in shape and are 6 – 7.5 mm long while the inner tepals (petals) are oblanceolate and 9 – 11.5 mm long.

It has 6 – 9 stamens that have 3 – 4.5 mm long filaments topped with 1 mm long anthers. It has 6-9 partially connate (united) carpels crowned with a persistent style. The fruit is a 1 mm long follicle, though it primarily reproduces vegetatively through spontaneous fragmentation of rhizome buds known as bulblets or bulbils.

It flowers from June to August though it produces little if any seeds.

Native Distribution

Flowering Rush or Butomus umbellatus is native to continental Africa and Eurasia including Afghanistan, Albania, Algeria, Armenia, Austria, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, China, Croatia, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Georgia, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iran, Iraq, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Latvia, Lebanon, Lithuania, Moldova, Mongolia, Morocco, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Russia, Serbia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Syria, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, United Kingdom, and Uzbekistan.

It is considered an endangered species in Israel where it is native to but has been threatened by habitat loss.

Human Uses of Flowering Rush

Flowering rush is often used as an aquatic ornamental plant in ponds and water gardens.

Sometimes it is also used as a food source as the bulbets contain more than 50% starch. They are peeled then steamed and eaten. They can also be dried and ground and used as a thickener for soups or ground with grains into flour for breads and other uses.

It has occasionally been used medicinally as an antimicrobial agent. However, recent studies on its use for this did not show positive results.

Habitat Types Where Flowering Rush is Found

Flowering rush is an emergent aquatic found in marshes, lakes, rivers, riparian zones, and wetlands in water up to 3 m deep. It grows to the deepest range that emergent aquatic plants can be found. It can also inhabit storm-water retention ponds, wet gravel pits, and roadside ditches. Sometimes it also grows as a submerged plant in rivers and lakes. It is an aquatic plant that requires access to water year-round but it has tolerance to variable depths of water, making it a suitable invader for disrupted wetlands. It, however, does not tolerate brackish water or salinity so it will not invade estuaries or inland brackish lakes.

Flowering Rush requires sunlight and will not grow in shade. It also prefers cool to warm temperate climates and will not grow in tropical climates. It grows in most soil types including sandy, loamy, and clay and tolerates acid, neutral, and basic pH levels.

Distribution of Butomus umbellatus in North America

The species was first observed in North America in 1897 in the St. Lawrence River area and has spread throughout eastern North America. It has since then continued its spread westward through long-distance dispersal primarily from boaters and intentional plantings from gardeners. From there, once introduced by humans to a new area they will spread vegetatively. Humans are the primary means of long-distance dispersal. This makes wetlands and lake shores located near human settlements at the highest risk of invasion. The bulbets frequently escape a garden pond during high water or from humans or wildlife transporting them.

In Canada, Butomus umbellatus has been recorded in most of eastern Canada including New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec, Ontario, and Manitoba. It is particularly problematic throughout the Great Lakes region. In western Canada it is found in both BC and Alberta. So far in BC, however, it has only been found in the Lower Mainland. It currently is not found in Saskatchewan, Newfoundland, or any of the northern territories.

In the USA, Flowering Rush has been found in Maine, Connecticut, Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin, Indiana, Illinois, Minnesota, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Montana, and Idaho. It is particularly problematic in the Great Lakes Region. It is illegal to buy or sell Butomus umbellatus in several of the eastern states. So far it has not been reported in any of the southern states.

In Mexico, so far, Butomus umbellatus has only been reported in one location. In 2017 it was found in Puebla Nuevo, Durango, Mexico on the eastern edge of the Sierra Madres.

How Flowering Rush Spreads

It is primarily dispersed vegetatively through bulblets that are carried by water currents or wildlife to new locations. The little bulbils float in water and are easily transported this way. Muskrats, waterfowl, and water currents are believed to be the primary method of local dispersal.

Humans are believed to be the primary source of long-distance dispersal. Anthropogenic dispersal is primarily done through gardeners planting them in their water gardens. This is likely how it was been introduced to North America in the first place. Boaters are another human source of dispersal where the small bulbils get carried from one location to another.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion by Butomus umbellatus in North America

The habitats most at risk of invasion in BC are marshes, lake shores, wetlands, and any aquatic habitat including roadside ditches. Since it is hardy from zones 3-10 it has a high potential for invasion throughout most of North America, excluding the most northern parts of Canada, desert areas throughout the southern USA and northern Mexico, and the most southern parts of Mexico where the climate becomes tropical.

Worst case scenario is that the flowering rush will invade lake shores, marshes, rivers, streams, and wetlands throughout the continent. They would displace our native wetland vegetation in the process and significantly reduce biodiversity in the affected areas. The associated economic costs will be enormous if it gets out of control since aquatic weeds are notoriously difficult to control. Since it has been seen to compete with even willows and cattails, it is expected to be highly invasive in any aquatic habitat that it gains a foothold in.

Impacts of Invasion by Butomus umbellatus

Studies in Canada have shown that in 40% of the areas where it was found Flowering Rush made up more than 50% of the total vegetation coverage. This suggests it has a high potential for being invasive and displacing native vegetation reducing biodiversity in the process. Light and nutrient levels are also affected where it is found because of its ability to form dense mats of vegetation. This would further increase competition with native species which would then get out-competed. Flowering Rush has been found to increase sedimentation in our waterways as well as reduce water flow through the dense mats they form. Given the other major threats all our wetlands, waterways, and riparian areas already face (habitat loss, increased nutrient input, altered water regime, pollution, other invasive species, etc) this is all of great concern.

Butomus umbellatus has already been shown to negatively affect wild rice (Zizania aquatica) populations. Flowering Rush reduces wild rice biomass which reduces their potential food source to both wildlife and the indigenous peoples who still use the rice as a food source.

Flowering Rush has the potential to clog irrigation channels reducing water delivery for agriculture. It also cogs other waterways impeding the flow of water, boats, and other industrial uses. Butomus umbellatus also reduces open water which affects recreational uses such as boating, swimming, and fishing.

Flowering Rush has also been shown to provide an ideal habitat for Lymnaea stagnalis, the great pond snail. This snail is an intermediate host for Trichobilharzia ocellata which is the trematode responsible for swimmer’s itch.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Muskrats and waterfowl have been found to feed on the bulbils, providing food for native animals. However, the native vegetation that it displaces would have also provided that same benefit. It may also provide structure for fish that require vegetation for spawning. However, the increased sedimentation and reduced water flow that result from their invasion would counter that apparent benefit as well.

Removal of Flowering Rush

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. Do not buy or transport any of the bulbils. If you acquire them somehow do not simply throw them in the trash. Instead, dry them thoroughly first or burn them to ensure they do not survive to propagate. If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them.

Physical Control Methods

Once already established, however, aquatic invasives are notoriously difficult to control. Physical control is the most effective means. This can be challenging, however, depending on water depth. Choose a time of the year when the water is at its lowest point. If necessary, mark the the patch with flagging tape when in flower so that you can return to it when the water is lower and they are not in flower.

When removing single isolated Flowering Rush plants hand pulling can be a very effective means of control to prevent them from getting a foothold in a new environment. Simply dig out the plants, removing all pieces and taking care to remove any floating pieces of bulbs as well. This is the most effective time to control them once they are found in a new environment before they become a dominant plant in the community.

If you are working on a large patch of Flowering Rush it would be a good idea to use an aquatic containment net around the area you are removing Flowering Rush from to keep all the pieces contained. (See Making an Aquatic Containment Net Below). When removing a large patch you can use your hands or a narrow-headed shovel if necessary, but be careful to remove all the rhizomes in the soil so dig around the edge of the patch a little bit to ensure you get all the rhizomes.

How to Make an Aquatic Containment Net

Purchase an appropriate length of fine-mesh netting. Netting can come in all different size meshes, heights and lengths. You want fine-mesh with holes that are less than 5 mm, large netting more than that will allow pieces to flow through. They also come in different depths which you will need to determine based on the depth of your water. You want it to sit on the soil in the water and reach the surface of the water at least.

To make your containment net you need to weigh down the bottom edge of the net. Every 20-30 cm sew, zap-strap or otherwise attach weights or rocks to the bottom edge of the net only. I have folded over the bottom and sewn rocks into nets in the field before and it worked great. This keeps the bottom of the net in the water and prevents it from floating. Then you can use posts pounded into the soil to hold the net in place, again zap straps work good in a pinch for attaching the nets, just make sure you use the reusable ones for this part. Then strain the water in the enclosed area with a net to be sure you remove all the plant pieces before removing the containment net and moving onto the next patch.

Alternative Physical Control Method

Note that simply cutting the plant below the water surface will not kill the plant. And since they spread almost exclusively by vegetative means preventing them from flowering also will not reduce their population. However, sometimes this method can be effective, particularly if deep water levels make it difficult to dig them out. You would need to return to the area and cut them down repeatedly throughout the growing season. This can reduce the area covered by Butomus umbellatus, allowing room and resources for other plants to grow in their place. This could weaken the plants eventually to the point they will be eradicated if this process is repeated annually. This is because they will not be able to put enough energy into their rhizomes to promote their growth for the following year(s). This is less labor-intensive in the short-term than digging them out but is much more labor-intensive in the long term.

Ongoing Monitoring

In all cases of physical removal ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs need to be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover.

Chemical Control Methods

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore there are no chemical control methods that currently target only Butomus umbellatus. Since the environment is aquatic it is also exceedingly difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not affect any native species that are there.

Biological Control Methods

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. This involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800’s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

There are currently no effective biological control methods in use for Butomus umbellatus. However, CABI is working on test studies with a semi-aquatic weevil, a fly, and a fungal pathogen. All are showing some promise but may need to be further studied before put into wide-scale use.

References and Resources

Butomus umbellatus photo from Wikipedia By Ivar Leidus – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=27558951

CABI Biological Control of Flowering Rush https://www.cabi.org/projects/biological-control-of-flowering-rush/ **CABI now charges for access to these!

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Great Lakes Aquatic Nonindigenous Species Information Systems by NOAA https://nas.er.usgs.gov/queries/greatlakes/FactSheet.aspx?Species_ID=1100&Potential=N&Type=0

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

US Fish & Wildlife Services Flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus) Ecological Screening Summary https://www.fws.gov/fisheries/ans/erss/highrisk/ERSS-Butomus-umbellatus-FINAL.pdf

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Crescentia alata Mexican Calabash - Native Plant of the Week

Looking up into a Crescentia alata tree with its trunk and branches covered with fruits
Looking up into a Crescentia alata tree with its trunk and branches covered with fruits

Mexican Calabash, Coatecomate or Jicaro – Crescentia alata – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

Coatecomate, Mexican Calabash, Jicaro or Crescentia alata is easily one of my most favorite trees in Mexico. While they are often a medium-sized tree, they can grow to quite large old-growth sizes in height and width. They are beautiful trees with unique fruits that are cauliflorous. Cauliflorous means that they grow directly from the trunk and branches. This is not a common feature in plants where fruits usually grow from peduncles (stems) that come off of secondary branches. Their fruits themselves are even more unique than the way that they grow, they are known botanically as an amphisarcum. An amphisarcum is a specialized berry with a hard woody pericarp (outer shell) and fleshy fruit inside. The seeds are embedded in the flesh, which is what makes them a type of berry. A berry with a wooden shell. The shells of the fruit are extremely hard, requiring a saw, rock, or a hammer to get into them as I did with the one in the picture below.

It has been hypothesized that Crescentia alata evolved with the now extinct gomphotheres. Gomphotheres are elephant-like creatures that likely broke the fruits with their large hooves and fed on the fruit inside. (If you want to know what a gomphotheres is check out the wiki link on it below). There are currently no native animals in their range that are capable of breaking the fruits. The seeds within the fruit cannot germinate unless the hard shells are broken open. It is believed that their survival in its native range was dependent on these now-extinct gomphotheres. It is also believed that domestic horses and humans have been keeping the species alive by breaking the fruits open for food, containers, art, or medicine.

Description of Mexican Calabash, Coatecomate, Jicaro

Leaves & Stem

An old-growth Crescentia alata tree, aka Mexican Calabash, Jicaro or Coatecomate.
An old-growth Crescentia alata tree, aka Mexican Calabash, Jicaro or Coatecomate.
The fruit and leaves of  Mexican Calabash, Jicaro or Coatecomate.
The fruit and leaves of Crescentia alata, aka Mexican Calabash, Jicaro or Coatecomate.

Coatecomate or Jicaro is a dry season deciduous shrub or tree of the Bignoniaceae family. It usually grows from 4 – 8 m tall but can at times grow taller. Dry season deciduous plants are those that typically lose their leaves in the dry season as opposed to winter deciduous plants in northern latitudes. Coatecomate trees can have a diameter at chest height of 30 -60 cm. Some specimens, however, can grow up to 18 m tall and up to 1 m or more diameter. The trunk can be light to dark-brown and usually has longitudinal fissures or cracks in it. The Mexican Calabash tree has a very deep root system that is adapted to growing in thin, poor, stony soils.

Crescentia alata has either simple or compound leaves in fascicles (bundles) of 3 at each node. Each leaflet is usually 1 – 4.5 cm long. Within each fascicle, the leaflet size can vary, often with one long and two short leaflets. Simple leaves are smaller than the compound ones, and the tree can contain both types.

Flowers & Fruits

The fruit of Crescentia alata
The fruit of Crescentia alata
The chestnut-brown heart-shaped seeds of Crescentia alata.
The chestnut-brown heart-shaped seeds of Crescentia alata.

The musky-smelling tubular campanulate (tubular and ending in a bell shape) flowers are tannish or reddish-brown in color. The fleshy corolla is 4 – 6.5 cm long and is often born directly on the thick branches and trunk (cauliflorous). The flowers are bisexual (containing both male and female parts). The calyx is split into 2 lobes, each about 1 -1.5 cm long. The flowers are pollinated by bats.

The fruit of the Mexican Calabash or Jicaro tree is classified botanically as amphisarca (plural) or an amphisarcum (singular). These are a specialized berry with seeds embedded in the flesh but encased in a woody pericarp (outer shell). Sometimes botanists classify it as a pepo, like a cucumber. A pepo is also a specialized berry with an outer shell but the shell, in this case, is not woody, just thicker and harder than the inside of the berry. The fruits, like the flowers, are cauliflorous and frequently grow directly on the thick branches or trunks without much of a peduncle (stalk). The seeds within are small and chestnut brown, 6-7 mm long and 7-9 mm wide, somewhat heart-shaped. The seeds will not germinate unless the hard woody shell is broken open by horses, humans, or some other mechanical force.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Crescentia alata or Jicaro of the Bignoniaceae family is difficult to confuse with other genera of plants even within its own family thanks to its cauliflorous flowers and unique amphisarca fruits with their hard wooden shells. However, there are a total of 6 species in the Crescentia genus. Most are quite rare or geographically isolated. They can be distinguished as follows:

  • Crescentia cujete is the only species Crescentia alata could really be confused with as their ranges do overlap. Except C. cujete has a much wider range in the Caribbean and South America. It has also been introduced globally in various areas of the tropics as opposed to just a few. C. cujete grows to similar sizes, but their leaves tend to be more ovate in shape and tend to be longer, up to 20 cm in length. The cauliflorous flowers are similar in size and shape but tend to be yellow in color with purple stripes as opposed to tan or reddish-brown. They have similar fruits except that theirs are much larger than Crescentia alata. The fruits of C. cujete are more bowl-sized than cup-sized, and they are frequently used as bowls in tropical areas where they are grown or are native to.
  • Crescentia amazonica is a very rare species found only in the state of Para, Brazil near the Amazon River. It is not likely to be confused due to its remote location.
  • Crescentia portoricensis is another rare species endemic to the island of Puerto Rico where it is threatened by habitat loss. It is not found in continental North or Central America.
  • Crescentia linearifolia is a fairly rare species endemic to Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands, it is not found in continental North or Central America.
  • Crescentia mirabilis is a rare species endemic to northeastern Cuba with greenish-yellow flowers with frilled edges.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Mexican Calabash

Coatecomate, Mexican Calabash, or Jicaro are often found in open fields, savannas, and pastures from 0 – 1200 m above sea level. It also grows in open lowland deciduous forests. Given that with the extinction of the gomphotheres that likely spread their seeds it is not surprising that they seem to be mostly found near human habitation and in fields where horses roam. Though they are native and grow in wild places they would have been spread there either by humans or large livestock as the seeds cannot germinate without the hard wooden fruit being crushed open.

It thrives in stony, sandy, shallow soils, often in or next to old dry creek beds. It can also grow in the richer soils found in agricultural fields, but in more nature environments it is often found in poor soils. It can be found in full sun or the part shade of a dry subtropical or tropical forest.

Growing Coatecomate in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They also provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

Young trees will grow quickly and once established will no longer need water or fertilizer. It is great as a low-maintenance and drought-tolerant tree for your yard. It can even be grown in containers providing they are large enough. More and more Crescentia alata can be purchased from nurseries in southern climates of the USA. If you buy a tree plant it the fall, winter or early spring in these areas.

Alternatively, you could collect some seeds and try growing them from seed. Do not put your seedlings in the ground until they have reached 30 cm tall. Then plant them but provide them with organic compost to feed them and provide a little moisture-retention while they are getting established. Once established simply leave them be.

Wildlife Values of Coatecomate

There are no extant native wildlife that feed off the fruits of Coatecomate, though domestic horses and cows do occasionally eat them. Bats are the primary pollinators of Crescentia alata. Birds often nest in the larger trees and will use the smaller trees for roosting in.

Distribution of Coatecomate Crescentia alata

Crescentia alata is native throughout most of Mexico except for the most northern parts of Baja California, Sonora, and Chihuahua. It is also native through Central America south as far as Costa Rica.

Mexican Calabash is not found naturally in North America outside of Mexico. However, it is occasionally cultivated in southern California and Florida in the USA. It has been introduced on some of the islands in the Caribbean including Bermuda, Puerto Rico, and Cuba where it is not believed to be native. It has also been introduced in Columbia, Peru, and Brazil in South America. Occasionally it is cultivated throughout the Old World tropics, though not as widely as its close relative Crescentia cujete.

Status of Crescentia alata

The populations of Crescentia alata appear to be stable in their native range. It was last assessed in 2018 and is currently listed as Least Concern on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species.

Given that it is a useful tree for human beings, that it prefers poor and often disturbed soils, and that horses and humans help spread its seeds, it is not likely that its status will change in the near future at least.

Traditional or Other Uses of Mexican Calabash or Jicaro

Coatecomate Fruits as Utensils

The fruits were widely used throughout their native range as cups or small bowls. Natives would often carry their own personal Coatecomate cup with them. They were also used as storage vessels for various dried foods, herbs, etc. Sometimes they were decorated for artistic purposes or made into toys for a child. Sometimes they would be filled with seeds or rocks and decorated to make musical instruments.

Mexican Calabash Fruits and Seeds as Foods

The seeds are very high in protein and have a pleasant licorice-like flavor. In Honduras, El Salvador, and Nicaragua they use the seeds along with rice, roasted pumpkin seeds, lemon peel, sugar, and water to make a plant-based milk beverage (a horchata) that they call semilla de jícaro. An edible oil can also be made from the seeds.

Sometimes the fruit was eaten or made into a drink. Mostly, however, the fruits were used for medicinal purposes. This is probably because the fruit is bitter and somewhat unpleasant in flavor (personal observation).

Crescentia alata as Medicine

The fruits were and still are widely used as an expectorant for respiratory conditions. They say to pour alcohol into the fruit and let it steep for some time. Then pour it off and drink the alcohol for colds, coughs and other respiratory conditions. The fruit was also used for kidney diseases.

A decoction of the leaves was used for ulcers, skin lesions, fevers, rheumatism, as an astringent for diarrhea, and an antihemorrhagic for hemoptysis.

Other Uses of Jicaro

Mexican calabash or Coatecomate is sometimes used in soil stabilization projects thanks to its extensive root system that is adapted to poor, thin soils. It is also used in plantations as a shade tree. The wood is sometimes used locally to make wagons and other tools.

Myths and Legends

The Mayan Book of myths (the Popol Vuh) mentions this tree as taking part in the second generation of the Maya Hero Twins. After the first twins were killed in Xibalba, the demonic Xibalbins hang their skills in a Coatecomate tree. Later on, the skull then splits in the hand of a Xibalban princess and impregnates her. She then gives birth to the second generation of Maya Hero Twins.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Crescentia alata

Crescentia alata fruit inside, an amphisarcum.
Crescentia alata fruit inside, an amphisarcum.

If you want to harvest some of the fruits, seeds, or leaves of the Coatecomate then choose an area that ideally has multiple trees. Choose an area that is free of major sources of pollutants and one that is not on protected lands. Fields and pastures are a great choice. Then simply pick the fruits from the tree. As always following the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting, picking only 1 in every 20 fruits or leaves that you see.

If there are a lot of fruits on the ground that are not broken open, grab a rock and try smashing some open to spread the seeds. And, if any of them are still pale cream-colored inside, then they have not been on the ground for long and can still be used as food or medicines. If the fruit is dark brown inside, however, they have already started to rot. In that case, just leave them on the ground or scatter nearby to help spread the seeds. If you smash some open and then scatter the pieces you will significantly increase the likelihood that they will germinate and grow into new trees.

To process the fruits simply pick them and bring them home. From there you can use a saw to cut the fruits open if you want to save the pericarp for a bowl or cup. Also use a saw if you are using the filling the fruit with alcohol method of medicinal preparation. If doing the alcohol extraction method simply cut open the fruit on one end, fill it with alcohol and let it sit for up to one month. Then drain off the alcohol to be used medicinally.

If not saving the shell of Jicaro for other uses you could also use a hammer to smash them open if you are planning to harvest the seeds. When harvesting the seeds simply pick through the pulp, removing all the little heart-shaped seeds which then can be dried on a screen for later use.

To harvest and process the leaves simply pick them following the 1 in 20 rule for leaves. Then bring them home and dry them on a screen to be used in decoctions at a later date. As always, do not grind your leaves before storage. Leave the leaves whole and dried in a glass jar to preserve their medicinal qualities. Grind or crush the leaves only when you are ready to use them.

References and Resources

Conabio Crescentia alata factsheet: http://www.conabio.gob.mx/conocimiento/info_especies/arboles/doctos/10-bigno1m.pdf For some reason when I use the link I used it does not open, if you Google Crescentia alata and click on the Conabio page on it you will get this fact sheet. It is in Spanish so you made need to use a translator.

Conafor Crescentia cujete: http://www.conafor.gob.mx:8080/documentos/docs/13/909Crescentia%20cujete.pdf

Crescentia Genus of Medicinal Plants: A Review. Journal of Medicinal Plants Studies 2019; 7(3): 112-116. https://www.plantsjournal.com/archives/2019/vol7issue3/PartB/7-3-5-783.pdf

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

Useful Tropical Plants Crescentia alata http://tropical.theferns.info/viewtropical.php?id=Crescentia+alata

Wikipedia on Crescentia alata https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crescentia_alata

Wikipedia on Gomphotheres https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gomphothere

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!