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White-Flowered Rhododendron Rhododendron albiflorum

Rhododendron albiflorum photo from the Monashee Mountain Range of British Columbia, Canada, by Lyrae Willis
Rhododendron albiflorum photo from the Monashee Mountain Range of British Columbia, Canada, by Lyrae Willis

White Rhododendron or Cascade Azalea Rhododendron albiflorum – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

I first found the White-Flowered Rhododendron, also sometimes called the Cascade Azalea, high in the subalpine forests of the Caren Range on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia. I was so excited to see a native Rhododendron that was so lovely and so hardy that it grew so high in the mountains. It has gorgeous large white fragrant flowers that capture the eye and lovely shiny light green foliage. Rhododendron albiflorum is native to the Pacific Northwest of the USA and to southern British Columbia and Alberta, Canada. It is a native shrub of the Ericaceae family in the Ericales Order of flowering dicots. If you live in the mountains in this area, I truly recommend going out and seeing it for yourself, or even trying growing it in your yard. Either way, it is a lovely shrub, and you will not be disappointed!

Description of Cascade Azalea Rhododendron albiflorum

Stem & Leaves

Rhododendron albiflorum is a native shrub of the Ericaceae family in the Ericales Order of flowering dicots. It grows from rhizomes and reaches heights of approximately 2.5 m. Its stems may be mostly smooth to furrowed and have unbranched hairs that are not glandular and are usually reddish in color.

The deciduous leaves are narrowly elliptic or ovate to obovate and 2 – 9 cm long by 0.8 – 3 cm wide. They are thin, membranous to chartaceous, and the margins are minutely serrated and ciliate when young. Leaves are hairy when young, and hairs may or may not be stipitate-glandular. Hairs may remain with age, or they may become more or less glabrescent. The apex of the leaf is acute to more or less rounded. Leaves are on hairy petioles (leaf stalks).

Flowers & Fruits

The pleasantly fragrant and somewhat pendulous flowers appear in later spring and summer soon after the leaves open up. They appear in axillary fasciculate inflorescences on 9 – 15 mm pedicels that are hairy and may or may not be stipitate-glandular. Its calyx lobes are 5-17 mm long, eglandular and stipitate-glandular-hairy, and its margins are also glandular-hairy. The partially connate (fused) petals are white and, on rare occasions, may be marked with yellow. They are basally fused into a 6 – 15 mm tube that spreads into five 3 – 9 mm long lobes that may be glabrous or minutely hairy. Flowers are cyathiform (bowl-shaped) and 9 – 22 mm in diameter. There are 9 (-12) stamens that are not exserted and are somewhat unequal in length, varying from 5.5 – 14 mm long.

White-Flowered Rhododendron fruits are capsules that are borne on erect pedicels. Capsules measure 6 – 8 mm long by 5 – 6 mm wide and are hairy. Hairs may be eglandular, stipitate-glandular, or unicellular hairy. The seeds have distinct tails on them, and their testa is closely appressed.

Toxicity

Although no mention of toxicity of this particular species could be found, all parts of plants of the Rhododendron genus are considered toxic, though rarely lethal to humans and occasionally to livestock and pets. Even though native people occasionally ingested it as medicine, it is no longer recommended for internal consumption today.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Rhododendron albiflorum is unique from other species of its genus in the Ericaceae or Heath Family with its white axillary flowers that are nearly actinomorphic and somewhat pendulous. However, the following are the most frequently confused members of its genus that grow in their range.

  • Rhododendron menziesii – this is what it is most often confused with due to similar leaves, size, and habitat preferences. However, once in flower, they are easy to distinguish because of the small urn-shaped, somewhat orange or pinkish flowers of Rhododendron menziesii.
  • Rhododendron occidentale – this also grows to similar sizes with similar leaves, but its range does not really overlap as it is found in coastal Oregon south to California, while Rhododendron albiflorum is only found in the Cascades in Oregon (somewhat inland). Also, the flowers of Rhododendron occidentale are white and yellow with longer lobes and are not bowl-shaped.
  • Rhododendron columbianum – this grows to similar sizes but is usually shorter. It is also found in some of the same range but only grows in wet habitats. Finally, its inflorescences are always terminal, not axillary, and the flowers are not pendulous.

Distribution of Cascade Azalea Rhododendron albiflorum

White-Flowered Rhododendron is found only in Western Canada and the Pacific Northwest of the USA.

In Canada, Cascade Azalea is found in British Columbia and Alberta (in the mountains of Alberta).

In the USA, Rhododendron albiflorum is found in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and Montana. There is also a disjunct population, sometimes called Rhododendron albiflorum var warrenii found in Colorado that is morphologically unique and considered Critically Imperiled.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of White-Flowered Rhododendron

White-Flowered Rhododendron is found mostly in montane subalpine and alpine habitats from 800 – 3500 m above sea level. They are typically found in coniferous forests, alpine thickets, stream banks, and seeps on rocky outcrops in the mountains.

Cascade Azalea will grow in full sun, part shade, or shade and grows in moist, wet, or dry soil types. However, it prefers full sun to partial shade and moist or wet soil.

Growing Rhododendron albiflorum in Your Garden

Rhododendron albiflorum is very cold-hardy, down to -30° C when dormant. However, flowers and new growth can be damaged by late frosts in the spring. They are best grown in light woodland shade in peaty or well-drained sandy loam soil with an acidic pH between 4.5 and 5.5. They will not grow well in dry arid soils, alkaline soils, or heavy clay soils.

The rootstock of Rhododendron species is surface-rooting, so do not allow other plants to grow on their roots. They form a root ball, though, which makes them relatively easy to transplant as long as the root ball is kept intact. If collecting a plant from the wild, always follow ethical wildcrafting principles and take only one small plant from a large healthy patch. Alternatively, you could air-layer several plants in the summer and then harvest them 14-24 months later. This is the easiest method of propagation. Cuttings of half-ripe wood are difficult to get to sprout roots.

If you ethically wildcraft some seeds, these are best harvested in the autumn and then sown that same autumn in a greenhouse with artificial light. Or, you could sow them in a cold greenhouse in mid-spring. Surface-sow the seeds and do not allow the soil to dry out. Pot the young plants and grow them in a greenhouse the first winter.

Wildlife Values of White-Flowered Rhododendron

Bees of all kinds will visit the flowers when in bloom. Otherwise, the toxicity of the genus prevents most wildlife from utilizing the plants. However, small birds are sometimes seen roosting on them, and small ground-dwelling rodents and lizards will use the thickets for cover.

Status of Rhododendron albiflorum

White-Flowered Rhododendron is considered Globally Secure, G5. It is currently not listed at all on the IUCN Red List.

In Canada, Rhododendron albiflorum is Locally Secure S5 in both provinces where it is found, British Columbia and Alberta.

In the USA, Rhododendron albiflorum is considered Vulnerable S3 in Montana and Critically Imperiled S2 in Colorado. The disjunct Colorado population has a smaller calyx and shorter stamens and is sometimes considered a separate variety of Rhododendron albiflorum var warrenii. In Washington, Oregon, and Idaho, it has not yet been ranked.

Cascade Azalea is not found outside of the western USA and western Canada.

Traditional or Other Uses of Cascade Azalea

Cascade Azalea as Food

The Okanagan-Colville people used to make tea with the leaves of Cascade Azalea. The Thompson used the branches in the bottoms and tops of their berry-picking baskets to keep their berries fresh.

Rhododendron albiflorum Medicinal Uses

The Okanagan and the Thompson both used a poultice of powdered burned wood mixed with grease for swellings and a decoction of the bark for stomach ailments. The Skokomish used a decoction of the buds for colds and sore throats. They also chewed the buds for an ulcerated stomach and applied the chewed buds as a poultice for cuts.

White-Flowered Rhododendron as an Ornamental

Sometimes Cascade Azalea is used as an ornamental shrub in gardens where conditions are right. It is a low-maintenance plant with gorgeous fragrant flowers. The Thompson native peoples also used the plant as a fragrance at times.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Rhododendron albiflorum

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states. See the above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely fragrant flowers.

If you are harvesting Rhododendron albiflorum from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, branches, buds, or plants you see.

Wildcrafting

If you are wanting to grow Rhododendron albiflorum in your garden, air-layering is the most successful method of propagation and the least impactful on the wild populations.

Air layering is very simple. All you need is some moss (which can be collected on-site), water, plastic, garden twine, and a knife. Use a knife to cut a small wound into a branch where you want it to root. Be sure not to cut too deep and never cut all the way around a branch, or it will die above the cut. Then wrap the wounded area in moistened moss. Wrap the moss in some plastic. I just cut thick plastic bags into pieces for this purpose. Then tie it on with some garden twine to ensure it stays on there.

Create several plants at the same time and return about 14-24 months later to harvest your new plants by cutting them off just below the plastic and twine. Bring the plastic and twine home with you to dispose of accordingly. Then simply pot up your new plants or plant them directly in the ground in suitable soil in a suitable location.

Picked buds and leaves can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

Processing

To dry the leaves or buds, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Once dried, the leaves and buds can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference. Do not grind or crush the leaves or roots until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Useful Temperate Plants on Rhododendron albiflorum http://temperate.theferns.info/plant/Rhododendron+albiflorum

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Ilex aquifolium English Holly - Invasive Plants of North America

Removal of invasive English Holly - Ilex aquifolium - young shrubs are easy to remove by hand before the roots get too large.
Ilex aquifolium aka English, European, Common or Christmas Holly, an aggressive invasive species in North America

Introduction

Ilex aquifolium goes by several common names, including English Holly, European Holly, Common Holly, and Christmas Holly. It is a highly invasive plant in the moist climates of North America, particularly on the west coast, where it is beginning to dominate the understory of some forest ecosystems. Despite this, it is still widely sold in stores throughout this region.

I grew up on the coast of BC, Canada, and remember finding it all the time under the canopy of the forest. I recently returned to the coast and spent some time there and was horrified by the amount it appears to be spreading and replacing our native understory species. In a single forest walk, I managed to pull out about 40 immature plants from the forest canopy. There were several larger ones I could not pull out by hand due to their deep and aggressive root system.

Next time I return to the coast and go for a forest walk, I will be sure to bring a trowel or a small shovel. Do your part on your forest walks and pull out any small holly shrubs you find growing before they get large and too difficult to remove. Just make sure you are not pulling Oregon grape or native hollies if you live on the east coast; see Similar Species below for more information.

Description of Ilex aquifolium

Leaves & Stems of Ilex aquifolium

Common Holly is a slow-growing evergreen perennial shrub or small tree that grows from 5-25 m tall. However, it usually only grows to the shorter 5-10 m shrub height. It may grow from a single trunk, or it may be multi-stemmed. Their trunks are usually less than 40 cm in diameter. Larger trunks can be from 40-80 cm in diameter, but they rarely exceed 100 cm. The bark is green when young but turns grey when it matures. While specimens as old as 500 years have been reported, it seldom lives longer than 100 years.

The leaves of English Holly are arranged alternately on the branches. They are tough, thick, and glossy green and measure 3-12 cm long and 2-6 cm wide. The margins are often characteristically undulate (wavy) and toothed with spiny tipped teeth. Sometimes the leaf margins are smooth, particularly on older specimens.

Flowers & Fruits of Ilex aquifolium

English Holly is a dioecious plant meaning that there are separate male and female plants. The flowers are whitish and have 4 petals and 4 sepals that are both fused near their base. In males, the flowers are usually more yellowish and appear in axillary groups (in clusters in the leaf axils). Female specimens have single flowers or in groups of three, and the flowers or white or somewhat pink. The male and female shrubs are impossible to tell apart until they begin to flower from 4 – 12 years of age.

Fruits are small red or yellow drupes, berry-like in appearance, and only grow on female plants. They are 6-10 mm in diameter. Each drupe contains 3-4 small stony seeds.

Toxicity of Ilex aquifolium

The drupes are toxic to humans and pets, causing vomiting and diarrhea, but they are generally not lethal. Birds typically eat them later in the winter after the frosts have softened them and made them less bitter; they are immune to their toxic effects.

Similar Species Ilex aquifolium is Frequently Confused With

There are a few other plant genera that have similar leaves to Ilex aquifolium. They include:

  • Berberis (Oregon Grape) of the Berberidaceae family, has a few native species growing in North America with evergreen, spiny-toothed leaves, but their leaves are opposite rather than alternate, and they have blue-colored berries rather than red or yellow drupes.
  • Osmanthus heterophyllus or Holly Olive is a member of the Oleaceae or olive family native to Europe that also has similar leaves and has been introduced in the USA. Holly olive differs from true hollies by its opposite rather than alternate leaves and bark that turns grayish to blackish with age and has a characteristic cracking pattern to it.

Ilex is the only genus in the Aquifoliaceae or Holly Family. Here are a few of its genus in North America that it could be confused with:

  • Ilex opaca American Holly – native to the eastern and south-central USA. It has matte yellowish-green leaves that are seldom glossy, as in Ilex aquifolium. Its trunk is grey with wart-like bumps, and its mature branches turn brown rather than grey. It also grows more of a tree than a shrub, with trunk diameters commonly of 50 cm and up to 120 cm in diameter.
  • Ilex cornuta Chinese Holly – native to China but widely introduced throughout the eastern and south-central USA. It has more rectangular-shaped leaves with only 5 (4) spines, but they are glossy green like Ilex aquifolium. Chinese Holly never grows to tree size; it rarely exceeds 3 m in height, and its drupes are larger than European Holly. The bark is smooth and grey but becomes flaky with age.
  • Ilex vomitoria Yaupon Holly – native to southeastern North America. It is a small tree or shrub with glossy green leaves, but the leaves are much smaller and are not spiny. Instead, the leaves have crenate or coarsely serrated margins.

Native Distribution of Ilex aquifolium

European or Common Holly is native to western and southern Europe, northwest Africa, and southwest Asia.

Habitat Types Where European Holly is Found

European or Common Holly is typically found growing under forest canopies, oaks, and beeches, especially in its native range. It typically requires moist and shady environments, making it particularly suitable as an undergrowth species in any moist forest. Also, it is common on moist and shady slopes, cliffs, and mountain gorges. Sometimes, however, it can also form dense thickets in more open fields and meadows. It is a rugged pioneer species that can tolerate both frosts and droughts.

Human Uses of Common Holly

European or Common Holly is widely used as an ornamental shrub or small tree in gardens. It is also extremely popular in Christmas decorations, where it is put in wreaths, garlands, and various other displays.

In traditional European herbal medicine, the leaves of Ilex aquifolium were used as a diuretic, to treat fevers, and as a laxative. It is seldom used in modern herbal medicine, however, and its berries are considered toxic, so the plant should be used with caution.

Distribution of Ilex aquifolium in North America

In Canada, Ilex aquifolium has been recorded as introduced in BC and possibly in Ontario. It is becoming particularly invasive in coastal BC.

In the USA, English Holly is found in Washington, Oregon, and California in the west and Virginia and New Jersey in the east. It has also been introduced in Hawaii. According to iNaturalist, it is located in many more states, but many may still be in cultivation, and some could be native Ilex spp. that have been misidentified.

In Mexico, Ilex aquifolium has not yet been reported so far.

English Holly has been introduced on every continent. It seems particularly bad in New Zealand, Tasmania, and North America.

How English Holly Spreads

It is primarily spread long-distance by deliberate human introductions as an ornamental species in gardens.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through birds that eat the abundant drupes later in winter after they have softened and their taste improves. They spread the seeds through their feces, where the seeds then germinate in any suitable habitat in both shade and sun.

English Holly also spreads readily vegetatively through suckering. This is how most of the thickets of Common Holly form and how it becomes a dominant understory species of the forests.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

The way that English Holly spreads through the feces of birds puts all habitats at risk, provided there is enough moisture. They will not grow in permanently wet wetlands, and they also will not grow in arid or semi-arid areas. Any moderately moist to wet climate, however, is at risk of invasion.

Their ability to grow in both sun and shade makes them a common invader of forests in particular but also roadsides, fields, meadows, cliffs, gorges, and anywhere else as long as there is ample moisture.

European Holly has proven to be particularly invasive in the temperate rainforests of northwestern North America, where it easily invades the mixed forest canopies and thrives in the moist environment there.

Impacts of Invasion by Ilex aquifolium

Ilex aquifolium has deep and aggressive roots that tend to out-compete the native species for nutrients and water. There is also evidence that English Holly alters the soil conditions by adding sulfur and large amounts of organic matter to the soil, which makes the conditions less hospitable for native species.

English Holly forms dense thickets that can dominate the understory of the forest and out-shade native shrubs and other native plants, reducing the biodiversity of the forests it invades.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Thickets of Ilex aquifolium are known to be used as a refuge by small birds and deer. The flowers are attractive to bees, small butterflies, wasps, and flies, and the berries provide an important late-winter food source. However, as with all invasive plants, the native wildlife would have depended on the native plants that grew there before the Common Holly replaced them.

Methods to Remove English Holly

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any European Holly, and never plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and stop selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

If you live in the eastern part of North America, why not grow one of the two native hollies instead, Ilex opaca or Ilex vomitoria? If you live in western North America and want some spiny, glossy green foliage, try growing native Berberis species instead. They have lovely foliage and beautiful blue-colored berries. The native Ilex and Berberis species can even be substituted for Common Holly in Christmas decorations.

Physical Control of European Holly

Young Ilex aquifolium can easily be pulled out by hand if small enough. 
This is one of many I pulled out by hand on one of my forest walks.
Young Ilex aquifolium can easily be pulled out by hand if small enough.
This is one of many I pulled out by hand on one of my forest walks.

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but causes the least amount of environmental damage.

Physical methods to remove European Holly generally involve uprooting the plants. This is best done when the plants are young before their aggressive roots have had a chance to establish themselves. Fortunately, they are a slow-growing species, so on a single walk through the forest, you can single-handedly destroy dozens of young plants with very little effort. Larger plants will need to be dug out with a shovel to get their roots. If the roots are not dug out, they can regrow from the stump.

For larger shrubby plants, use pruners to remove the upper growth before using a shovel to dig out the root mass. For tree forms of Ilex aquifolium, you can try girdling it. This involves removing a strip of bark from all the way around the circumference of the tree. As with all trees and woody shrubs, the only part of the tree’s trunk that is alive and transporting nutrients is the layer directly under the bark. If you cut down to the heartwood and remove the bark in a strip all around the tree, it can no longer transport water and nutrients to the leaves. The tree will then die and can be left to rot or be removed.

The best time to remove European Holly is before it is in berry, in the spring or early summer. If you need to remove them when in berry, be sure to clip off the berries before removing the shrub or tree and place them in the bag for proper disposal.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

Trees or shrubs without berries on them can be burned, cut into firewood, or left to rot. If you have plants that have mature berries on them, they must either be burned or solarized. If you are unable to burn in your area, then solarizing is a viable option. To solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags. Then leave them in the full sun for a good 8 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. The plants can then be disposed of. They can be brought to a garbage dump where you can inform them they are an invasive species so they can deal with them accordingly.

Chemical Control of European Holly

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increase.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only European Holly. If you do use chemical control, it must be stem injected. The tough evergreen leaves readily resist the absorption of pesticides, making foliar applications ineffective.

Chemical control is generally not recommended.

Biological Control of Ilex aquifolium

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other biological agent to control an invasive species once it is fully established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective for some invasive species.

Unfortunately, there are no current methods of biological control for English Holly in North America other than goats. Domestic goats are aggressive and non-selective browsers. They will literally eat anything. This will work best on shrubs and thickets. Often goats will eat the bark off of trees so that they can even kill off the trees if they manage to eat all the way around the tree.

To use goats, the patch should be penned in, and then the goats left there to graze for at least 2 years. They will eventually destroy all the above-ground growth and then eat the new sprouts as they come up. This can then be followed with rootstock removal for any stubborn plants that may remain. Alternatively, simply leave the goats in the area for another year until you see no more sprouts. At this time, they can be moved to another patch, and that patch can be replanted with native vegetation. An ongoing monitoring program should then be implemented to be sure they do not sprout again.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest form, this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings. Otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Sometimes Crucial

Removal of single plants from the understory of the forest will not require replanting with native species. Simply remove and monitor, and other plants will grow in their place. However, in cases of the removal of thickets that dominate the area, the site should be replanted with native species. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement once the English Holly has been removed. You will need to research species that are native to your area. Ideally, use ones from your local environment to ensure local ecotypes are represented. Alternatively, you can purchase suitable plants from a nursery in your area that specializes in native species.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive European Holly removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Sometimes roots left behind will re-sprout into new plants. Furthermore, birds will keep bringing in new seedlings if there are still plants in the wider surrounding environment. For these reasons, yearly monitoring should be put in place to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established, especially since that is the easiest time to remove them. With ongoing monitoring, we can keep invasive species in check and promote local biodiversity in the process.

References and Resources

Best Management Practices for English Holly in the Metro Vancouver Region http://www.metrovancouver.org/services/regional-planning/PlanningPublications/EnglishHollyBMP.pdf

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Ilex aquifolium https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ilex_aquifolium

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Fouquieria splendens Ocotillo is Native to North America

Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens plant growth form with flowers
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens plant growth form with flowers
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup

Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens – Native Plants of North America

Introduction

Fouquieria splendens Ocotillo is part of a small genus of 11 plant species and the only genus in the very small family of Fouquieriaceae. The entire family is endemic to the arid southwestern US and northern Mexican deserts. At first glance, you might think it is related to the Cactaceae family in the Caryophyllales order. However, they are not at all related. The Fouquieriaceae are part of the Ericales order. If you take a close look at their flowers, you will see they resemble Ericaceae far more than they do Cactaceae. Only their spiny stems and their love of arid deserts resemble the Cactaceae family.

It is an interesting and unique plant and a great low-maintenance addition to any southern USA or northern Mexico garden. Once established, simply enjoy its beauty, no need to water or fertilize. Many of the 11 species of this genus are endangered and have very limited geographical ranges. If you have any in your yard, please allow them to grow and help propagate them.

Description of Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens

Stem & Leaves of Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo is a shrub with multiple semi-succulent greenish spreading, but upright stems that branch heavily from its base but rarely again after that. Younger stems are green and capable of photosynthesis, but older stems turn grey. Stems grow to 10 m tall and 5 cm in diameter near the base. The stems are covered in spines from hardened petioles (leaf stalks) from the previous season’s leaves. It is a slow-growing dry, season deciduous shrub that may live up to 200 years.

Leaves and spines of Fouquieria splendens - Olive Lee State Park, New Mexico
Leaves and spines of Fouquieria splendens – Olive Lee State Park, New Mexico

Its first leaves on new growth produce a petiole (leaf stalk) which hardens into a sharp spine that remains after the leaf falls off. After a rain, its new green leaves sprout from below the spiny petioles and may persist for weeks or months. Leaves are 2 – 4 cm long and ovate in shape.

Flowers & Fruits of Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo flowers closeup from Mohave County, Arizona
Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens flowers closeup from Mohave County, Arizona
Fresh fruits of Fouquieria splendens  from Carlsbad, NM, USA
Fresh fruits of Fouquieria splendens from Carlsbad, NM, USA

The crimson red flowers appear in spring and summer in dense terminal clusters 15 – 25 cm long at the ends of the stems. They have 5 overlapping sepals and 5 petals that are connate (joined) into a slightly zygomorphic tube. They have several exserted stamens with crimson red filaments topped with yellow anthers. They are filled with nectar and feed the native hummingbirds.

Its fruit is a green seed-filled capsule that turns brown when ripe.

Similar Species Fouquieria splendens is Frequently Confused With

Fouquieria splendens is part of the Fouquieriaceae family, and with its spreading stems, lack of branches, small leaves, and cactus-like appearance, this rules out confusion with cacti due to the presence of leaves (exceedingly rare in Cactaceae) and its spreading habit that does not resemble any cactus in its range. The red tubular flowers on a cactus-like plant also make it difficult to confuse with other genera or families. However, there are 11 species of Fouquieria in North America, though most are quite rare and many are endangered. Following are 7 of the more well-known species and how to differentiate them from Ocotillo.

  • Fouquieria burragei – a micro endemic species restricted to the gulf coast of Baja California Sur where it is also considered endangered. It grows 3 – 7 m tall and has a more spreading habit giving the overall shape a fan-like appearance rather than the tall columnar branches of Ocotillo. It also has white to red flowers with numerous exserted stamens.
  • Fouquieria columnaris – this is a strange tree-like species growing to 20 m tall with a single columnar trunk with a diameter of up to 25 cm. It has a very narrow range being restricted to Baja California, northern Baja California Sur, and a small population off the coast of Sonora.
  • Fouquieria diguetii – this one is restricted to Baja California, Baja California Sur and the coasts of Sonora and Sinaloa. It grows 1.8 – 3 m tall. Its leaves are dark green and elliptic up to 2 cm long
  • Fouquieria formosa – this one is restricted to central and southern Mexico with a limited range. It grows up to 10 m in height, reaching small tree-size proportions. Its range does not seem to overlap with Ocotillo.
  • Fouquieria macdougalii – this one is restricted to Sonora, Sinaloa, and the eastern edge of Chihuahua. It is a tree Ocotillo with a trunk 1 – 2 m tall and up to 40 cm wide. It has branching stems that hang pendulously on the ends (unlike Fouquieria splendens) and grow to a total of up to 11 m.
  • Fouquieria purpusii – this one is restricted to Puebla and Oaxaca, and its range likely does not overlap with Ocotillo. It has a unique bulbous stem at the base and white flowers. It is endangered.
  • Fouquieria shrevei – this is a rare micro-endemic species of Coahuila and Durango that is restricted to some gypsum outcroppings. It grows to 3 m tall and has white instead of red flowers, and its leaves are broader than any of the other species in the genus. It is an endangered species.

Distribution of Ocotillo Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo is found only in the Sonoran, Chihuahua, and Colorado deserts of the southwestern USA and northern Mexico.

In the USA, Ocotillo is found in California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas.

In Mexico, Fouquieria splendens is found in Baja California, Baja California Norte, Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Durango, Coahuila, Tamaulipas, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, Queretaro, Hidalgo, and Puebla. It is not found south of Puebla.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Ocotillo

Ocotillo is a desert-dwelling shrub. It prefers open and very rocky habitats like rocky slopes, mesas, washes, and desert grasslands. It grows in full sun to part shade in well-drained soil that remains dry most of the year. Fouquieria splendens prefers sandy or rocky loam, limestone, or granite-based soils with a neutral to alkaline pH of 7 – 9. It is tolerant of mild freezing temperatures and is very drought tolerant.

Growing Fouquieria splendens in Your Garden

If you live in the arid or semi-arid southern USA or northern Mexico, Ocotillo is a terrific landscape shrub. Once established, it requires little to no maintenance, not even water, unless in an overly-extended period of drought. They are resilient plants and generally will only die if you over-water them. Plant them, and once established, ignore them completely, and they will thrive. If you do water, never do so more than once per month.

It can be propagated from seed but reproduces readily from cuttings taken at any time of the year. Cuttings are a faster and more reliable method. You can take cuttings from wild specimens being sure to follow the rules of Ethical Wildcrafting, where you harvest cuttings from 1 in 20 stems that you see. Simply dip the end in rooting hormone and plant in moist but well-drained soil and keep it relatively moist (but not wet) until it becomes established, then cease watering.

If gathering seeds, gather 1 in every 20 ripe brown capsules you find before they split open. Then allow them to dry completely and plant the seeds untreated. Extra seeds can be stored in the fridge.

Ocotillo can be planted year-round. Smaller plants grown by seeds or cuttings in pots will transplant well. Do not bury the stems and water occasionally during the establishment phase but be sure to allow it to dry between waterings as they will not tolerate water logging.

Large plants do not transplant as well. If you are moving a large plant, you should plant it to the same depth as it was originally and with the same side south-facing as it was in its previous location, as this side is more adapted to the sun and heat.

Wildlife Values of Ocotillo

Hummingbirds are the main pollinators of Ocotillo, who are attracted to the red tubular flowers and feed on the abundant nectar. Native carpenter bees also visit the flowers, and bats may as well.

Verdin and other desert birds visit the plants. Its seeds are eaten by numerous native birds and small mammals.

They are host to Hemileuca electra silkmoths.

Status of Fouquieria splendens

Ocotillo is considered Globally Secure, G5. This assessment seems premature given the lack of actual data on its assessment in both the US and Mexico.

In the USA, Fouquieria splendens is considered critically Imperiled S1 in Nevada. In all other states, it currently has no status rank and is in need of proper assessment.

No official information on its status in Mexico could be found.

Traditional or Other Uses of Ocotillo

Fouquieria splendens Medicinal Uses

The Mahuna people used Fouquieria splendens as a blood purifier and tonic. Other Native Americans used fresh flowers or roots on wounds to slow bleeding, and they would bathe in water with flowers or roots to help relieve fatigue.

Ocotillo is also a mild expectorant used for coughs.

It is also sometimes used for achy limbs, varicose veins, urinary tract infections, benign prostate growths, and cervical varicosities and to improve the function of the lymphatic system.

Ocotillo as Food

Fresh flowers are sometimes added to salads to impart a tangy flavor. Flowers are sometimes collected and dried and used in tea. The Cahuilla used the fresh flowers in water as a summertime drink. The Papago pressed the nectar out of flowers, then hardened it like rock candy and chewed it as a favorite delicacy.

The Cahuilla would grind the parched seeds into flour to make cakes.

The Yavapai children would suck the tasty nectars out of the fresh flowers.

Ocotillo As Ornamental or Tools

Individual stems are sometimes used as poles as fencing material and often take root to form a living fence. Plants make a terrific ornamental border to keep animals or people out of an area. The Cahuilla often used the stems as a border around crops to keep rodents out. Cahuilla would also use the stems for firewood.

Papago people used wooden stems often in their house building and other construction projects. They would also use thorns to pierce ears. The Pima people used the stems bound together with wire or rawhide for shelves and also used the plants in their gardens ornamentally. Seri people would use the stems to make sun and wind shelters.

The lightweight stems, once removed from thorns, make great walking sticks.

Gum resin from the bark has been used for waxing leather and as an adhesive, varnish, and waterproofing agent.

Ocotillo as Ceremonial

The Papago used flexible stems as ceremonial structures representing clouds or mountains.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Fouquieria splendens

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is currently critically imperiled in Nevada. See the above section on Status.

Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely form, low maintenance, and useful properties.

If you are harvesting Fouquieria splendens from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, fruit, or stems that you see.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp spines. Harvesting stems can be done with a small hand saw and simply cutting the stem near the base. Never pick more than one stem from a single plant. You can use a sharp knife to scrape the thorns from the stem or to remove the bark.

Picked fruits, roots, or flowers can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day, be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

Flowers can be eaten fresh upon picking. If used medicinally, it can be dried for later use.

When harvesting roots, dig near the base of the plant with a digging stick. Never use a shovel, as they will damage roots indiscriminately. Find a single healthy root and sever it with a sharp blade, then re-bury the other end. Being a desert plant, it is best to harvest roots anytime the soil is dry (most of the year) since wet soil could encourage the severed root to rot.

To dry the flowers, fruit capsules, or bark pieces, simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Fruits, when dry, will split apart to reveal the seeds.

Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt and then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

Once dried, the fruits, seeds, and roots can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species’ name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of the harvest for my own reference.

Do not grind or crush any of the plant materials until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

California Native Plant Society on Fouquieria splendens https://calscape.org/Fouquieria-splendens-()

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Fouquieria splendens https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fouquieria_splendens

Wildflower.org on Fouquieria splendens https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=fosp2

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America. 

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Himalayan Blackberry Rubus bifrons - Invasive in North America

Rubus bifron Himalayan Blackberry flowers.
Rubus bifron Himalayan Blackberry flowers.

Introduction

Himalayan Blackberry or Rubus armeniacus or Rubus bifrons (**) is a well-known invasive species in some areas. Where I grew up on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia, Canada, it was everywhere. It does less well in the colder interior, but it still does grow there, just much less invasively. As a child, I did not understand that it was invasive and not native. I just loved eating handfuls of the huge juicy, and sweet berries. I would go out picking bucketfuls of berries every summer with my mother and my three brothers. Now I know how invasive it truly is, and somehow the fruits seem a little less sweet to me now. Once established, the removal of Himalayan Blackberry can be very challenging.

**NOTE: While originally always identified as these two species, there is now a major revision being done on records historically identified as Rubus bifrons, which are now suspected to be misidentified introductions of Rubus armeniacus or, in the Pacific Northwest, sometimes Rubus procerus. Some even argue that true R. bifrons may be absent from North America or much rarer than previously thought. Regardless, much of this information will still be true, and as I obtain new information on the taxonomic changes of introduced Rubus in North America, I will update this page!

Description of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

Leaves & Stems of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

Rubus bifrons and Rubus armeniacus are members of the Rosaceae family of the Rosales Order of flowering dicots. They are a perennial vine-like trailing shrub that grows 1 – 7 m in length and 0.4 – 1 cm in diameter with arching or creeping stems that are sparse to densely hairy and armed with numerous prickles. They have a large root crown of roots and rhizomes that grow to 0.5 m and sometimes up to 2 m deep.

The leaves are deciduous or sometimes somewhat evergreen and palmately compound with 3 – 5 spreading leaflets. Leaflets are elliptic or ovate to sub-orbiculate and 6 -15 cm long and 4 – 9 cm wide with a rounded or somewhat cordate base. Margins are moderately to coarsely serrated, and the apex is acute to acuminate. The lower surface is whitish to grayish green, while the upper surface is glossy bright green or dark green. There are filiform or linear stipules that are 7 – 15 mm in length. The largest veins have hooked prickles on them.

Flowers & Fruits of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

Himalayan Blackberries usually have loose terminal inflorescences that generally extend past their subtending leaves. Sometimes the inflorescences may grow in the leaf axils as well. They are in a thryse with 10-60(-100) flowers in them. Pedicels are covered with prickles, are densely hairy, and may or may not be glandular. Flowers are bisexual with 5 white or pink petals. Petals are not connate (free), are obovate to elliptical and shape, and are 10 – 15 mm long each. It has filiform stamen filaments, and its ovaries are apically hairy.

They produce abundant black fruits that are juicy drupecetums, an aggregation of drupes on a fleshy accessory peduncle. Most people refer to them as ‘berries’. Fruits are globose or almost cylindrical and 1 – 2 cm long with 15 – 50 individual drupelets that strongly adhere to the accessory peduncle. Abundant fertile seeds are produced in their fruits, from 7000 – 13000 seeds per square meter of stems. Seeds can remain viable in the soil for several years.

Rubus armeniacus fruits By Daderot - Own work, see reference below
Rubus armeniacus fruits By Daderot – Own work, see reference below

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Mostly Rubus is confused with other members of the same genus, which are all part of the Rosaceae or Rose family. Still, most native Rubus are smaller plants with smaller or differently shaped and/or colored berries. Some native and introduced Rubus, however, grow to similar sizes but can be differentiated as follows:

  • Rubus laciniatus, Cutleaf or Evergreen blackberry, is native to Eurasia and has been fairly widely introduced in North America. It grows in similar habitats to similar sizes with similar fruits but can easily be distinguished by its lacinated or deeply cut leaflets as opposed to the whole serrated leaflets of Himalayan Blackberries.
  • Rubus pascuus Chesapeake Blackberry is a native shrub of Kentucky, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, North Carolina, and South Carolina. It has tighter and shorter inflorescences, is more densely glandular, and its terminal leaflets are erect rather than spreading in Rubus bifrons.
  • Rubus pensilvanicus Pennsylvania Blackberry is native throughout eastern Canada and the USA. It usually is a bit smaller than the Himalayan Blackberries, and its very red stems are densely covered in red prickles. It also only ever has white petals on its flowers, and its abaxial leaf sides are hairy but never whitish or grayish-green.
  • Rubus ulmifolius Elmleaf or Thornless Blackberry is another European species that has been introduced that superficially looks very similar, but it is only found in California, Oregon, and Nevada. If prickles are not present, they can easily be distinguished by this. However, sometimes it does have prickles, in which case you can differentiate it by its strongly pruinose stems that Himalayan blackberries lack.
  • Rubus vestitus European Blackberry is found on the Pacific coast of the US and Canada. It is an armed shrub that is generally smaller than 2 m. It also has narrower inflorescences, nearly round terminal leaflets, and stipitate-glandular hairs lacking in Himalayan Blackberries.

Native Distribution of Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus

There is much debate as to the taxonomic description of this species. Some sources call them all Rubus armeniacus and say these are from Europe. Other sources say that the species are only native to Armenia and Iran. Other sources call this plant Rubus bifrons and say it is widespread in Europe and includes Rubus armeniacus. In either case, whether the same or separate species, they are virtually identical, and both are native to Europe, one more widespread and the other less so.

Habitat Types Where Himalayan Blackberry is Found

Himalayan Blackberry grows in both wetland and upland environments. While it grows abundantly in riparian areas, it does not invade the permanently wet soils of the wetlands though it will tolerate temporary flooding of up to 40 days. It will even tolerate occasional flooding of brackish water. It grows best at low elevations but can grow up to 1200 and occasionally 1800 m above sea level.

Himalayan Blackberries prefer moist, nutrient-rich loam but do not require it. They can also be found growing in soils with a wide range of textures, fertilities, and pH from acid to alkaline. It prefers sunny sites but easily grows in part shade as well.

Human Uses of Himalayan Blackberry

Himalayan Blackberries are widely used as food. They are eaten fresh as berries or frozen or canned for winter use in pies, cakes, jams, jellies, and wines.

Blackberry roots and berries are often used to treat diarrhea, fluid retention, gout, diabetes, gout, and inflammation. It is sometimes used to prevent heart disease and cancer. It makes a good rinse for irritation of the mouth and throat.

They are planted along fences and trellises to create impenetrable barriers to keep people and animals out of an area.

Distribution of Rubus armeniacus, Rubus bifrons in North America

The Himalayan Blackberry species were first brought to North America as a food crop in 1885 for its abundant berries.

In Canada, Rubus bifrons has been recorded in British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, and Nova Scotia. Canadensys does not distinguish between the two species and uses only Rubus bifrons stating that Rubus armeniacus is a synonym.

In the USA, the Himalayan Blackberry is reported as two separate species. USDA states that Rubus bifrons is only found in the eastern part of the country in Oklahoma, Texas, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Maryland, Virginia, Washington DC, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts.

USDA states that Rubus armeniacus is more widespread in the west and scattered in the east. It is found in Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Montana, Nevada, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Missouri, Arkansas, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Ohio, Virginia, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Massachusetts.

In Mexico, Rubus bifrons so far has been reported in Veracruz and Oaxaca. Rubus armeniacus has been reported in Baja California (norte), Puebla, Mexico State, Jalisco, and Chiapas.

Himalayan Blackberries have now been introduced on every continent except Antarctica.

How Himalayan Blackberry Spreads

It is primarily spread long-distance by deliberate human introductions planting it in their gardens. It quickly escapes from cultivation due to its aggressive growth.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through birds and animals which eat the abundant fruit and then spread the seeds around in their feces. Humans also spread the fruits by picking them, eating them and dropping them, etc. They also spread vegetatively through their root crown and rhizomes and by rooting at nodes on their stems that come into contact with soil.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Himalayan Blackberries are considered particularly invasive on the west coast of North America in low-elevation riparian, deciduous, and conifer forests as well as grasslands. It is heavily invasive in riparian communities in that area. It invades the same types of areas in the east but may be less invasive there due to the other aggressive native and non-native vines that are abundant in that region.

Himalayan Blackberry will not invade permanently wet soils or high-elevation montane forests. It will grow in middle-elevation montane forests but not very well. It will also not grow in most arid areas due to lack of moisture unless it is in a riparian zone with perennial access to water.

Impacts of Invasion

In North America, the Himalayan Blackberry is considered the most invasive nonnative shrub on the western coast from British Columbia, Canada, south to California, USA. They are aggressively spreading shrubs that quickly scramble over and smother all other vegetation in their path, excluding tall trees, as they cannot climb as high as English Ivy, for example. However, it can quickly smother and kill all young trees in its path. It is highly competitive for light, space, and nutrients. Due to its aggressive growth, it quickly out-competes native vegetation.

It replaces the more bio-diverse native shrubs and herbs that would have otherwise grown there, creating complete monocultures if the conditions are suitable for them. This out-competes our native vegetation, reducing biodiversity and even causing local extirpation of species. It also forms dense thickets in riparian areas that impede movement and access to water by humans and animals alike.

Himalayan Blackberry is also an agricultural and range land weed that replaces crop and forage lands quickly if left unchecked. Himalayan Blackberry and Scotch Broom are the two most abundant agricultural and range land weeds, causing an estimated $85 million in losses annually.

The abundant dead canes they produce are also a significant fire risk when they die and become brittle as they burn easily.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Himalayan blackberries are widely eaten by bears, foxes, coyotes, squirrels, raccoons, deer, birds, slugs, and countless other native species. Most native ungulates prefer to browse the leaves, but some (white-tailed deer, for example) have been observed browsing the fruits. Leafcutter ants and leafhopper butterfly larvae also feed on the leaves. It is the preferred larval host plant for leafhopper butterflies. Pollen and nectar are also used by native bees, honey bees, and hummingbirds.

In addition, a multitude of small animals and birds use the blackberry thickets for cover, nesting, roosting, etc. The impenetrable thickets of thorns provide them protection from predators.

All of these animals, however, would have fed on the native Salmonberries, Thimbleberries, or other native species displaced by the invasive Rubus bifrons, however. The dependence of wildlife on the berries creates an additional challenge to the control or removal of the Himalayan Blackberries. Check out the control methods below for more information.

Methods to Remove Himalayan Blackberry

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in many local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Himalayan Blackberry. Do not plant it in your yard.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Instead, buy suitable native Rubus species. There are multiple native blackberries and raspberries that are even more delicious and are just as easy to grow as invasive blackberries. Native Rubus species provide additional biodiversity and wildlife values as well.

In fact, due to wildlife values, this makes the removal of Himalayan Blackberry more challenging. Because native wildlife now depends on this non-native species, when you remove a large patch, it should be done in stages. Clear one-third or one-quarter of the patch (depending on the size).

Once cleared and few sprouts keep coming back, then it should be replanted with a variety of native salmonberries, thimbleberries, or other native shrubs that would have originally fed the wildlife in your area.

Research what species are native to your area to find suitable replacements. Then tackle the next fraction of the patch until you have replaced the invasive blackberry with a more biodiverse native selection.

Ongoing monitoring will, of course, be needed to ensure it does not return and overtake your planted native species. See the Integrated Management section below.

In public and natural areas minimizing disturbance and replanting disturbed areas as quickly as possible are the best prevention strategies for reducing the chance of invasion by Himalayan Blackberry or any other invasive species.

Physical Control of Himalayan Blackberry

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming, but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

The best time to remove Himalayan Blackberry is early in the spring, before or later during flowering but before the fruit has set to avoid further spreading the seeds.

Physical methods to remove Himalayan blackberries generally involve cutting, hoeing, digging, and burning. Often a combination of methods is used. Always wear gloves when handling the canes, as the prickles are very tough and sharp and will easily pierce the skin.

Young plants can be pulled by hand.

Mature plants require the cutting of the canes with cutters or loppers and then removing the rootstock.

Burning is also an effective method to remove the above-ground growth, but as with cutting, the rootstock will need to be dealt with as well. A single cutting back of the above-ground growth, however, if not followed with additional treatments, will actually increase the density of the thicket when it regrows. It must be followed with additional treatments and ongoing monitoring.

If the rootstock is not removed, it will grow back quite vigorously. One method is to repeatedly cut it back or burn it multiple times over multiple years until the roots are starved by the lack of above-ground growth.

Rootstocks can also be dug out with a shovel or a weed puller, but they are very tough, and this is only suitable in small patches.

If you have only a small patch to deal with and root digging is too labor-intensive, you could also cover the entire area with a black tarp for at least two growing seasons to solarize it. This is much less labor-intensive than returning repeatedly, but again this only works on small patches.

Note that it is virtually impossible to remove all of the rootstocks due to the size and depth that the roots spread to. Removing as much as you can is critical to success. However, it must be followed by ongoing monitoring over several years to ensure all new sprouts are destroyed.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

If you have live stems or plants that have seeds on them, they must either be burned in a hot enough fire or solarized. The fire must be hot enough to destroy the seeds. If you are not allowed fires in your area, then you will have to solarize them.

To solarize, put the shrubs under a thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 8 – 10 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. Some sources suggest less time for polarization, but in my experience, differential heat throughout the bag/tarped area as well as variations in sunlight intensity, can result in the survival of at least some seeds if done for a shorter duration. Take them to your local dump once done and inform them that they are invasive species so that they are disposed of appropriately.

Chemical Control of Himalayan Blackberry

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increase.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Rubus bifrons or Rubus armeniacus. And due to the nature of Himalayan Blackberry, multiple applications are always needed over multiple years, further degrading the local environment.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Himalayan Blackberry

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day, there are still rats in Hawaii, but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of plants, roots, and seeds to actually control the Himalayan Blackberry on their own. Results this high have never been achieved in the field.

However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective at times. However, in North America, so far, there are no biological control methods in terms of insects, fungi, or other pathogens that have been approved. This is because they all put our abundant list of native Rubus species at risk as well.

Using Goats to Remove Himalayan Blackberries

The only recommended biological control method at this time is grazing by domestic goats. Domestic goats are aggressive and non-selective browsers. They will literally eat anything. To use goats, the patch should be penned in, and then the goats left there to graze for 3 years. They will eventually destroy all the above-ground growth and then eat the new sprouts as they come up.

This can be sped up by an entire year by first removing the above-ground growth and then allowing the goats to eat the sprouts as they come up.

This can then be followed with rootstock removal for any stubborn plants that may remain, or simply leave the goats in the area for another year until you see no more sprouts.

At this time, they can be moved to another patch, and that patch can be replanted with native vegetation and a monitoring program implemented to be sure they do not sprout again.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In all cases of Himalayan Blackberry removal, the site will need to be replanted once the majority of the infestation has been dealt with. This is because the bare soil will allow the seed bank of Himalayan Blackberry in the soil to germinate and re-invade the patch they were removed from. Or it will allow the invasion by other nonnative species, which all favor disturbed sites.

A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement in the 2nd to 4th year upon removal of the Himalayan Blackberry, depending on the speed and success of the removal method.

A variety of native species that are ideally seeds from the local environment to ensure local ecotypes should be planted. If local seeds cannot be gathered or started in time, then purchasing native plants from a reputable nursery specializing in local native species is a good alternative. This must then be followed by ongoing monitoring.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Himalayan Blackberry removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential.

Multiple visits should be made in the first two years to ensure that any surviving individuals, their sprouts, and their seedlings are removed so that the population is not able to recover.

Then yearly monitoring after that for at least five years to ensure that none return. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Himalayan Blackberry is aggressive and prolific and will out-compete planted vegetation if yearly monitoring is not put in place to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established.

References and Resources

CABI on Rubus armeniacus https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/116780 **CABI now charges for these sheets!

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Fire Effects Information System on Himalayan Blackberry https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/shrub/rubspp/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Rubus armeniacus fruits picture from Wikipedia By Daderot – Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=21796138

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia Himalayan Blackberry https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubus_armeniacus

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Asimina triloba Pawpaw - Native Plants of North America

Asimina triloba, American Pawpaw fruit, in flower
Asimina triloba, American Pawpaw, in flower

Pawpaw Asimina triloba – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

The Pawpaw or Asimina triloba is a member of the Annonaceae family and the only one that can be found in a temperate climate. The Annonaceae family is part of the Magnoliales Order of flowering Angiosperms. Magnoliales are part of the Magnoliids, the basal angiosperms that diverged before the dicots and monocots. They share characteristics with monocots, dicots, and even gymnosperms, making them an interesting, unique, and varied group of plants. Asimina triloba is no exception to this rule. They produce gorgeously unique flowers and the largest fruit native to the USA (excluding gourds which, for the purposes of edibility, are classified as a vegetable even though they are, in fact, a fruit). The fruit is a delicious creamy fruit with large black seeds you generally do not eat, but the flesh of the fruit tastes somewhat like bananas, and sometimes people call it Indian Banana.

Description of Pawpaw Asimina triloba

Stem & Leaves of Asimina triloba

Pawpaw is a shrub or small tree 1.5 – 11 (-14) m tall with slender trunks to 20(-30) cm in diameter. Its bark is brown on branches and often smooth and light grey on the trunk, but it can get shallow grooves in larger specimens. Branches are slender and spread in an ascending manner. New shoots are moderate to very brown-hairy apically but become glabrous with age.

The leaves of Asimina triloba are simple oblong–obovate to oblanceolate in shape and 15 – 30 cm long. They grow on a petiole 5 – 10 mm long. Leaves are membranous with a narrowly cuneate base and acute to acuminate apex. Leaf margins are margins sometimes partly revolute (rolled under). Leaf surfaces are densely hairy, abaxially becoming sparsely hairy on the veins with age. On the adaxial (upper) side, they are sparsely appressed-pubescent on the veins and become glabrous with age.

Flowers & Fruits of Asimina triloba

The maroon flowers appear in early spring as the leaves are just beginning to grow. Flowers appear in leaf axils on a nodding peduncle 1 – 2.5 cm long that is densely hairy with dark-brown or red-brown hairs. Flowers are 1 – 5 cm in diameter and have an unpleasant odor. Flowers have 3 triangular-deltate sepals 8 – 12 mm long that are densely pilose on the abaxial side. The three outer petals are excurved, oblong–elliptic, and 1.5 – 2.5 cm long. The inner petals are elliptic and usually about 1/3 to 1/2 the length of the outer petals.

The androecium is a ball of short, stocky stamens with upright anthers. The styles of the gynoecium protrude through the center of this mass.

The Pawpaw is somewhat unusual in that it may be polygamomonoecious or polygamodioecious in that it has separate male, female, and hermaphroditic flowers on the same individual or may have male and hermaphrodite on one plant and female and hermaphrodite on another. Furthermore, under stressful conditions, it may change its sex or its ratio of male to female flowers. It is not capable of self-fertilizing.

Its fruit is a large berry 5 – 15 cm long that is green when young and yellow when ripe. Its yellow or orange-colored fruit inside is soft and creamy and contains many large chestnut-brown seeds that are 1.5 – 2.5 cm long. Though its seeds are fertile and it is capable of sexual reproduction, it reproduces more often and more quickly by vegetative spread by way of root suckers.

Similar Species Asimina triloba is Frequently Confused With

Asimina triloba is sometimes mistaken for various Carya, Nyssa, Lindera, Juglans, Quercus, Castanaya, Diospyros, and Magnolia species due to the shape of the leaves. However, the unique flowers and, later the very large fruits, which are easily distinguished as being part of the Annonaceae family, will easily distinguish them from any of the species of those genera. There are other species in the Asimina genus that they could be confused with. These can be differentiated as follows:

  • Asimina parviflora – this one is restricted to the southeastern US states and does not grow as far west or north as Asimina triloba. It is also much smaller, usually a shrub or a small tree up to 6 m tall. It has similar colored flowers, but they are much smaller, 1 – 1.7 cm in diameter. The fruits are 3 – 7 cm long.
  • Asimina incana – a rarer shrub endemic to Florida and Georgia, grows only 1.5 m tall. Its outer petals are white or cream in color instead of maroon, and they are 3.5 – 7 cm long each. Its fruit is a yellow-green berry up to 8 cm long.

Distribution of Pawpaw Asimina triloba

In Canada, Pawpaw is found only in southern Ontario.

In the USA, Pawpaw is an eastern species found in Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Michigan, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Washington DC, Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, and Connecticut.

Asimina triloba is not found in Mexico.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Pawpaw

Pawpaw likes to grow in floodplains and shady, rich valley bottoms or lowlands where it may form dense, clonal undergrowth as a patch or thicket of individual small trees. They grow in full sun and part shade. Although shade-tolerant, pawpaws do not grow in undisturbed old-growth forests. Instead, they are one of the newer invaders of clear cuts; generally, around 4 years after tree removal, they will appear.

Pawpaw prefers rich loamy soils with a moderately acidic pH. It prefers moist soil types that are well-drained. While it can tolerate wet, heavy soils, it grows better in those that are well-drained, and it will not grow if the soil is wet for too long.

Growing Pawpaw in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established, they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

Pawpaw is relatively easy to grow, but fruit production is a little more complex. To grow it as a flowering shrub, purchase a plant from your local native plant nursery. Avoid trying to grow from seed due to unpredictable seed fertility. From seed, it also takes several years in cool, moist conditions before the plant is ready to produce any flowers or fruits.

Choose a sunny or partly shady spot and ensure you have good soil. If your soil is sandy, too dry, or low in organic matter, dig out a roughly 1 cubic meter area and amend your soil with an abundant amount of loam or even compost. Put some amended soil back in the pit (at least 40 cm worth), and then plant your tree, filling in around it with more amended soil. Pawpaws have delicate taproots, so the soil they are planted in must be freshly loosened.

Top dress with compost to feed it and provide extra moisture during the establishment phase. For dry areas or very poor soil, you can also plant it in a bit of a depression to hold extra moisture when it is available. Water throughout the first growing season, keeping the soil moist but not wet.

If your soil is heavy clay or very wet, you can also dig out a pit but amend it with loam and gravel and then be sure to plant it on a mound rather than in a depression or at ground level to provide it with a bit of extra drainage.

Once established, it will require little to no maintenance.

Fruit Production

If you want to produce fruits from your trees, you will need to plant them in full sun. They are self-incompatible, so you will need more than one tree so that they can cross-fertilize. Avoid taking cuttings from the wild because some wild varieties never produce fruits; they like to spread vegetatively, so fruit production is not necessary for their survival. This is one of the few cases you must buy from a nursery specializing in native plants.

Cross-fertilization naturally is poor in Pawpaw trees. The flowers are mildly malodorous and rely on flies and other insects for pollination, which seldom happens often enough for heavy fruit production. Many growers turn to hand pollination to ensure they get enough fruits.

To hand pollinate is simple; you can literally just use your hand or a soft clean, unused paintbrush. Dust the brush or your finger in a flower on one tree and bring it and do the same with a different flower on another tree. Continue this until you have cross-pollinated all of your flowers. This will significantly increase your fruit production.

Winter Maintenance

Prune when the tree is dormant in fall, winter, or spring, depending on your location. Since this is a temperate Annonaceae, it is already adapted to cold conditions and requires no winter care. However, if you live in the northern limit of its range, it would benefit from winter mulch.

Wildlife Values of Pawpaw

The fruits of the pawpaw are frequently eaten by mammals, including raccoons, gray foxes, opossums, squirrels, and black bears. The foul-smelling twigs and foliage are rarely browsed upon by rabbits and the occasional moose; otherwise, they leave the trees alone unless in fruit. Birds are often seen roosting in the trees and will also occasionally feed on the fruits. The Pawpaw is also a larval host plant of the zebra swallowtail butterfly, which consumes some of the foliage.

Status of Asimina triloba

Pawpaw is considered Globally Secure, G5, and Least Concern on the IUCN Red List.

In the USA, Asimina triloba is considered Locally Secure S5 in Indiana, Kentucky, West Virginia, Virginia, Delaware, Pennsylvania, North Carolina, and Georgia. It is considered Apparently Secure S4 in Nebraska. In New Jersey, Pawpaw is considered Vulnerable S3. It is considered Imperiled S2 in Iowa and New York. In all other states where it is found, it currently has no status rank.

Asimina triloba is considered Vulnerable S3 in southern Ontario. Its range in Canada is very limited and it is found in a heavily populated area of southern Ontario.

Pawpaw is not found in Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses of Pawpaw

Pawpaw as a Food

The Cherokee, Iroquois, Pawnee, Kansa, and Choctaw people used to eat the fruit fresh or dried. Sometimes they would make it into dried cakes for winter food storage. Dried fruit was sometimes made into sauces or relish.

Today there are commercially grown Pawpaw trees in some areas for small-scale commercial production. They cannot be produced on a large scale for fresh consumption because they quickly ripen and start to ferment upon picking, making them suitable for fresh local markets only. The fruit is also popular in ice cream and baked desserts, where it can be used in frozen form.

Pawpaw as Medicine

There was no recorded use of Native Americans using the Pawpaw as medicine.

However, the bark, leaf, and seed are occasionally used to make modern herbal medicines. They are used in homeopathy to treat fever, vomiting, pain, and inflammation of the mouth and throat.

Asimina triloba as Ornamentals or Tools

The Cherokee people used to use the tough inner bark as a source of cordage to use as strong rope or string for tying things together.

The Pawpaw is often used for landscaping in the eastern USA due to its easy growth, lovely flowers, its fresh fruit, and its relatively low maintenance needs once established. It has few natural pests and requires no pesticides and little to no fertilizer. It is sometimes used in ecological restoration for its ability to grow in wet soils and form dense clonal mats, which can help prevent erosion.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Asimina triloba

Check the status in your state or province before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states and in the province of Ontario. See the above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely flowers as well as its tasty fruits.

If you are harvesting Asimina triloba from the wild, as always, use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 fruits you see from a large patch. Be sure to leave lots of fruits for all the wildlife that feed on the ripe fruits.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits can be placed in a basket or bowl and brought home for processing.

Pawpaw should generally be eaten soon after picking if eating fresh as it quickly ripens and starts to ferment if left too long. Do not eat either the skin or the seeds of the fruit, as both are toxic to humans. Alternatively, you can freeze or dry the fruits.

To freeze, it is best to first peel the skins and remove the seeds, as these are toxic and should not be eaten. The resulting pulp can be frozen in containers or bags.

To dry the fruits, also skin them first and remove the seeds. Then dry the pulp either in the sun on a hot day with mosquito netting around it to keep the flies out or in a food dehydrator on a low heat setting. Dried fruit can be stored in a labeled glass jar.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished). Plant Families of North America. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Tamarix - Saltcedar is an Invasive Species of North America

Saltcedar Tamarisk Tamarix ramosissima an invasive Species in North America. Picture shows the leaves and typical flowers of almost all the Tamarix species found in North America.
Saltcedar Tamarisk Tamarix ramosissima an invasive Species in North America. Picture shows the leaves and typical flowers of almost all the Tamarix species found in North America.

Introduction

I never saw saltcedar, Tamarisk, or any of the other common names that Tamarix species go by until I traveled south. So far, they have not ventured far into Canada and certainly haven’t been venturing there long. However, in the south, they thrive in hot, dry areas, particularly saline soils where few plants will grow, allowing them to take over. There are 50 – 60 species of Tamarix in the world, and not one is native to North America. In North America, we have Tamarix aralensis, Tamarix aphylla, Tamarix africana, Tamarix canariensis, Tamarix chinensis, Tamarix gallica, Tamarix parviflora, Tamarix ramosissima, and Tamarix tetragyna.

All Tamarix species should be considered invasive in North America. They have covered over a hundred million acres in the western US alone, and they frequently hybridize, making identification to the species level challenging. For the purpose of identifying them as an invasive species and for Tamarisk or Saltcedar removal or control, identification to the genus level is more than sufficient.

Description of Tamarix spp

Leaves & Stems of Tamarix spp

Tamarix spp are part of the Tamaricaceae family in the Caryophyllales Order of flowering dicot plants. They are either shrubs or small trees from 1- 10 m tall and are often multi-stemmed. They are a long-lived species living 100 years or more. Most species are deciduous. They are almost all very deep-rooted, with a tap root up to 30 m deep that also produces lateral roots up to 50 m long that can produce adventitious buds, especially when covered by shifting sand. Their deep taproots are meant to reach down into the groundwater, allowing them to survive in hot drought-prone climates as long as they are close to the water table.

Young branches are glabrous and are a variety of colors depending on the species. They may be reddish-brown, brown, blackish-brown, dark purple, grey, or black. Older branches have heavy bark that is frequently shredded and may be grey or brownish and reaches 10 – 15 (-30) cm in diameter.

The usually sessile (without leaf stalks) leaves of Saltcedars are much reduced and appear small and bract-like, somewhat resembling that of coniferous tree needles. Leaves are varying shades of dull, light, or dark green and turn golden-orange in the fall.

Flowers & Fruits of Tamarix spp

Tamarix ramosissima pink flowers in racemes typical of all Tamarix species in North America
Tamarix ramosissima pink flowers in racemes typical of all Tamarix species in North America

Tamarisk or Saltcedars produce a racemose inflorescence that is often paniculately branched. They are borne on the ends of current-year branches or in some species’ previous-year branches. In most species in North America, the flowers appear after the leaves have grown back. The flowers are very small, usually pink, and most have small petals only 1 – 2 mm long.

Fruits are multi-sided capsules with up to thousands of tiny seeds. The capsules usually have a tuft of hair that aids in wind dispersal. They can also be dispersed in water. Seed viability is very short, however, from around 20 to a maximum of 120 days, depending on the weather. However, Saltcedars can flower and produce seeds for extended periods of time, allowing them to reproduce prolifically even with their short seed life.

Similar Species Tamarix spp are Frequently Confused With

Other Genera

There are a few other genera that Tamarix species are occasionally confused with that also grow in similar habitats and ranges and have much-reduced leaves. However, all of those can easily be differentiated by their flowers.

Parkinsonia species are members of the Fabaceae family and have larger yellow, somewhat pea-like flowers and produce small legume fruits.

Prosopis glandulosa also of the Fabaceae family, has sprays of yellow rather than pink flowers, and it is also a Fabaceae that produces long legume fruits.

Lepidospartum squamatum has a limited range native to the southwestern USA and northwestern Mexico and has small yellow Asteraceae-type disk flowers and typically Asteraceae cypsela fruits. Baccharis neglecta has a similar North American range, but it is a perennial plant, not a shrub, and produces individual whitish flowers more typical of the Asteraceae family it belongs to.

Polygonella robusta is an uncommon plant of the Polygonaceae family that is endemic to Florida and produces similar sprays of small pink flowers, but its leaves, while still small, are long and linear compared to all Tamarix species.

Juniperus virginiana smells strongly of juniper and has characteristic powdery blue “berries” and no pink flowers.

Casuarina equisetifolia is of the Casuarinaceae family, native to Australia and south Asia, but its widespread in Mexico and more limited in the southern USA. It has needle-like leaves, but they are longer, divided into septa, and grouped in fascicles, and it produces a globose cone-like fruit.

Tamarix Genera

Tamarix species belong to the Tamaricaceae family and can be rather challenging to identify at the species level. For the most part, genus-level identification in North America is sufficient for treating these plants as invasive species, since none are native to the region. However, with a bit of patience and a small amount of skill, they can be identified to the species level as follows:

  • Tamarix aralensis Russian Tamarisk has a limited range in North America. It is similar to T. chinensis and T. ramosissima but has a much more limited range. It can be differentiated by its petals that fall off at the time of seed maturation.
  • Tamarix aphylla Athel Tamarisk is more widespread in Mexico than in the southern USA. It is the only evergreen species, and its leaves are sheathing on the stems rather than sessile or amplexicaul like all other Tamarix species in our area. It also produces white instead of pink flowers.
  • Tamarix africana African Tamarisk has a very limited range in the southern USA. It has the largest flowers (though still small) with petals that are 2 – 3 mm long and racemes that are 5 – 9 mm wide.
  • Tamarix canariensis Canary Island Tamarisk has a limited range in the southern USA. It is similar to T. chinensis and T. ramosissima, but its sepal margins are denticulate, and it has obovate petals that are 1.2 – 1.5 mm long.
  • Tamarix chinensis Five-Stamen Tamarisk is widespread in Mexico and the USA. It also is the most similar to T. ramosissima, and the two often hybridize, leading some to believe they should be considered the same species. They have five petals and five stamens. They can only be differentiated by this one’s sepal margins that are entire and that some or all of the stamens’ filaments originate from below the nectar disc. Filament inspection requires patience, a hand lens, and some skill. Furthermore, its petals persist at seed maturation, unlike T. aralensis.
  • Tamarix gallica French Tamarisk has a limited west and south range in the USA and northern Mexico. It is also similar to T. chinensis and T. ramosissima, but its sepal margins are entire or almost entire, and it has elliptic to ovate petals that are 1.5 – 2 mm long.
  • Tamarix parviflora is very widespread in the USA and is limited to the northern parts of Mexico. Its flowers are produced before it gets its leaves, and it usually only has four petals, unlike all other species in North America, whose flowers are five-petaled and arrive after the appearance of leaves.
  • Tamarix ramosissima is fairly widespread in both USA and Mexico. It is the most similar to T. chinensis, and the two often hybridize, leading some to believe they should be considered the same species. They have five petals and five stamens. However, this species’ sepal margins are denticulate rather than entire, and all the stamens’ filaments originate from the edge of the nectar disc rather than below it in T. chinensis. Filament inspection requires patience, a hand lens, and some skill. Furthermore, its petals persist at seed maturation, unlike T. aralensis.
  • Tamarix tetragyna Four-Stamen Tamarisk is found only in Georgia. It can be differentiated by its flowers that have only four stamens as opposed to the five that all other species in North America have.

Native Distribution of Tamarix spp

There are approximately 100 species of Tamarix, and all are native to Eurasia and Africa. None are native to the Americas.

Habitat Types Where Saltcedar is Found

Saltcedar, with its long taproots, is usually found only near groundwater and is, therefore, particularly common in riparian habitats, including floodplains, permanent or ephemeral stream banks, and around lakes and water reservoirs. They can also grow in upland habitats out of contact with groundwater, but they are less common there and grow less vigorously there. They can grow from 0 – 2000 m above sea level.

There is a common misconception that they are saline-loving plants, but in fact, they tolerate a wide range of soils, including those fairly high in salinity. This gives them a significant competitive advantage in saline areas where most other plants cannot survive. In those conditions, they typically rapidly produce monocultures displacing the few native halophytes found there.

Human Uses of Tamarisk

Tamarisk is used as an ornamental, especially in marginal habitats or saline soils. It was also widely planted as a stream and dune stabilizer in some areas. It is being used in China to fight the expansion of deserts.

Tamarisk wood is sometimes used for firewood, carpentry, and the making of bows and other tools.

In Africa and Asia, Tamarix species are used medicinally to treat wounds and infections as well as liver and spleen disorders. It is seldom currently used in North America medicinally.

Distribution of Tamarix spp in North America

The species was first brought to North America in the 1800s as an ornamental species. There are no species of Tamarix native to North America.

In Canada, Tamarix ramosissima has been recorded but ephemeral in British Columbia. It has been seen but not lasted long enough to confirm in Ontario, Manitoba, Quebec, and Nova Scotia.

In the USA, nine Tamarix spp are found. They are distributed as follows:

  • Tamarix aralensis Russian Tamarisk is found in California and North Carolina.
  • Tamarix aphylla Athel Tamarisk is found in California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, and Texas.
  • Tamarix africana African Tamarisk is found in California, Arizona, Texas, Louisiana, and South Carolina.
  • Tamarix canariensis Canary Island Tamarisk is found in Arizona, Louisiana, Georgia, South Carolina, and North Carolina.
  • Tamarix chinensis Five-Stamen Tamarisk is more widespread and is found in Washington, California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Ohio, and North Carolina.
  • Tamarix gallica French Tamarisk is found in Washington, California, New Mexico, Texas, Louisiana, Georgia, South Carolina, and North Carolina.
  • Tamarix parviflora is the most widespread species in the USA, being found in Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Montana, Colorado, New Mexico, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Missouri, Louisiana, Illinois, Mississippi, Kentucky, Tennessee, Florida, North Carolina, Virginia, Michigan, Pennsylvania, Delaware, New Jersey, Connecticut, and Massachusetts.
  • Tamarix ramosissima is also fairly widespread, being found in California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina and Virginia.
  • Tamarix tetragyna Four-Stamen Tamarisk is found in Georgia.

In Mexico, there are five species of Tamarix found as follows:

  • Tamarix aphylla is the most widespread found in Baja California, Baja California Sur, Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Durango, Jalisco, Michoacan, Coahuila, Nuevo León, Tamaulipas, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, and Mexico City.
  • Tamarix chinensis is found in northern Mexico in Baja California, Baja California Sur, Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Coahuila and Nuevo León. It is possibly found in Mexico City, Mexico State, and Tamaulipas, but this is unconfirmed.
  • Tamarix gallica is much less widespread and also only found in the northern states of Baja California, Coahuila, and Nuevo León. There is also an unconfirmed location in Chihuahua.
  • Tamarix parviflora is the least widespread in Mexico and is only found on the northern border of Baja California. It is not far from the border in New Mexico, so it may likely spread to Chihuahua from there soon.
  • Tamarix ramosissima is the second most widespread in Mexico, with populations found in Baja California, Baja California Sur, Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo León, Guanajuato, Queretaro, Mexico State, Mexico City, and Guerrero.

How Tamarisk Spreads

It is primarily spread long-distance by deliberate human introductions into gardens or as a landscape plant.

Short-distance dispersal occurs through the abundant tiny seeds spread by wind, water, humans or animals. Seeds have a very short viability period; however, if they are not germinated during the summer that they are dispersed, almost none germinate the following year. However, Saltcedar produces seeds over a very long period enabling its rapid spread. Mature tamarisk plants also spread vegetatively by adventitious roots producing colonies of clones. 

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

All riparian areas are at risk of invasion, particularly in the semi-arid and arid southern areas of our continent. More northern areas are less at risk, but we have seen invasion into North and South Dakota, Washington State, and New York, as well as the so-far ephemeral invasion into southern Canada. Tamarisk or Saltcedar has expanded its riparian dominance significantly since the 1800s and now covers huge geographical areas. Its rapid spread does not seem to be slowing, and its range continually grows.

In California desert areas, Saltcedars have now even become established in remote mountain springs, streams, and washes. These areas show no sign of human disturbance and are long distances away from any source of infestation. This means that wild riparian areas far from humans are not safe from Saltcedar invasion.

Impacts of Invasion

Tamarisk thrives in riparian habitats where it quickly displaces native vegetation due to rapid growth, tolerance of a wide range of environmental conditions, and long periods of abundant seed production. Tamarisk also accumulates salt in its leaf glands and excretes it onto the leaf surface. These salts accumulate in the soil when the plants drop their salty leaves. As surface soils become more saline over time, they further exclude native vegetation, producing monocultures. Native herbivores’ preference for native plants gives Tamarix species yet another competitive advantage.

Significant loss of biodiversity occurs in the stands of Saltcedar. Plant diversity is dramatically reduced, resulting in a loss of riparian bird, insect, invertebrate, aquatic and animal diversity.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Saltcedar provides a habitat for a number of bird species. However, many of these are introduced from the Old World, where Tamarix evolved; though some of our native birds do use it, they still prefer native plants.

Methods to Remove Tamarix spp

As always, prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in many local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Saltcedar. Do not plant it in your yard. There are so many Native Plant Species that would make suitable garden specimens that are noninvasive and provide additional wildlife and biodiversity values.

If you see Tamarisks being sold online or in your local garden stores, please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Physical Control of Saltcedar Tamarisk

Once already established, however, physical control is a labor-intensive but effective means to remove Saltcedar. Physical control is time-consuming and costly, but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage and leaves the area the most biodiverse afterward.

The best time to remove Saltcedar or Tamarisk is before it has gone to seed. Because it flowers and seeds for an extended period of time, this must be done in the late fall, winter, or early spring. If the plants are in seed upon removal, they can be burned or solarized as the seeds are sensitive and should die easily.

Physical methods to remove Saltcedar generally involve pulling young plants by hand, if very small, or with a weed puller or digging them out with a hoe or shovel.

Mature specimens are generally cut down, but the rootstock must be either dug out with a machine or chemically treated for a period of time to prevent re-sprouting. Isolated larger specimens can be solarized to prevent re-sprouting, but the tarp must remain for 2 growing seasons. Another method is to simply keep returning to the area a few times each growing season for several years in a row to keep cutting any new sprouts. This will eventually starve out the roots and kill the plant.

Along controlled rivers scheduling 5 – 10 year floods which wash out the Saltcedars removing them and leaching salts from the soil. This allows the native vegetation adapted to periodic flooding to grow back and displace the Saltcedar. The seedlings can be easily killed by keeping an area flooded for one month. The flooding method can also be used in low-lying areas that are isolated. Cut down all mature plants to the ground and keep the area flooded for an extended period of time. It will kill or prevent any new seedlings or sprouting and will eventually start rotting out and starving the roots. After the water is allowed to drain, the short seed viability period makes it unlikely that many new seedlings will emerge. Ongoing monitoring and hand-pulling of the few that do grow can be effective at preventing the population from becoming re-established.

Methods Not Recommend

Neither mowing nor burning will effectively control mature Saltcedar. Plants will quickly regrow from their basal stem buds and be supported by their extensive and deep root systems. Seedlings can be controlled by physical removal as mowing is generally ineffective on them as well due to their roots.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

If you have plants that have seeds on them, they must either be burned or solarized. Though mature plants are fire-adapted and will regrow, their sensitive seeds are vulnerable to fire, so the burning of shrubs is desirable in areas where burning is allowed.

If burning is not allowed, you should solarize the shrubs under a thick black tarp or in thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for 6-8 weeks to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. Since seed viability is poor, solarizing is also an effective method to destroy seeds.

Chemical Control of Saltcedar Tamarisk

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used, species riches significantly increase.

Saltcedar is somewhat resistant to chemical control methods, with up to 30% of plants resprouting up to three years after treatment. This means multiple applications will be needed. Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only the control of Saltcedar. Finally, due to their preference for riparian habitats, the use of herbicides is often not allowed due to proximity to water.

However, professionals and government officials may determine where and when chemical applications can be safely carried out to deal with vast areas of infestation. Chemical control by individuals is generally not recommended.

Biological Control of Saltcedar

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day, there are still rats in Hawaii, but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of seeds to actually control the Saltcedar on their own. Results this high have never been achieved in the field. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective.

So far, in North America, only one biological control agent has been released to control Tamarisk. Diorhabda elongata deserticola is a leaf beetle from western China and eastern Kazakhstan that was released in the USA in 1986. The beetles established well in the more northern areas and, after the third season, were seen to defoliate over 95% of the plants in the area. The populations have been spreading and are successfully helping to control Saltcedar in larger and larger areas. The introduced leaf beetle has also shown to be highly selective for Tamarisk and so far has not been observed eating any native vegetation. This makes it highly suitable for the biological control of Saltcedar.

The leaf beetles, however, did not establish in the southern areas due to increased predation and climatic differences. Additional subspecies of D. elongata have now been obtained from lower latitudes in Europe and Asia to be tested in more southern locations. It is too early for conclusive results.

Goats and cattle will graze on Saltcedar, but cattle, in particular, will selectively graze on native vegetation where it is present. Goats are less selective and will generally eat anything. Grazing would need to be done on a continual basis for at least 4 – 5 years so that they eat all sprouts that try to grow back up from the rootstock. Eventually, this would starve out the rootstock, and the plants would die.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form, this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management is required because the area needs to be monitored for returning sprouts or seedlings; otherwise, all the hard work done in removal could be wasted if the invasive species is allowed to regrow.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In all cases of removal, the site should be replanted once the area has been cleared of Saltcedar and the soil has been leached of excess salts. Leaching the soil involves manually flooding the area with fresh water if there is insufficient rain in the region. Otherwise, waiting until after the rainy season may be sufficient as long as there are no more Saltcedars there.

Bare soil invites more infestations, and high salinity prevents biodiversity from improving. A replanting program should be planned and ready to implement the following year after the removal of Saltcedar. Then ongoing monitoring will be necessary to ensure no sprouts survive and no new seeds are accidentally brought into the area.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Saltcedar removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving sprouting individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. Due to the short viability of seeds, new seedlings will stop emerging after a single season, provided no new seeds are accidentally transported to the site. Monitoring is required whether the area is replanted or not. Saltcedar has very deep and widespread roots that will easily regrow and start a new infestation if left unchecked. Yearly monitoring will prevent this and will allow the site to recover so that native plants will return.

References and Resources

CABI on Tamarix ramosissima https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/52503

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Fire Effects Information System on Tamarix spp https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/tree/tamspp/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (Unpublished).  Plant Families of North America.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Drosera rotundifolia Round-Leaved Sundew - Native Plant of the Week

Round-Leaved Sundew Drosera rotundifolia growing in Halfmoon Bay, British Columbia, Canada.
Round-Leaved Sundew Drosera rotundifolia growing in Halfmoon Bay, British Columbia, Canada.

Round-Leaved Sundew Drosera rotundifolia – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

I have always been a sucker for all things weird and unique, especially when it comes to native plants. Drosera rotundifolia or the Round-Leaved Sundew was the very first carnivorous plant I saw in the wild and I was immediately in love. To this day it is still one of my favorites. It is a tiny little plant with round leaves covered in sticky glands it uses to capture its prey, any insect small enough to get trapped in its sticky glands including mosquitoes, flies, butterflies, moths, etc. It kills its prey in about 15 minutes but then it slowly digests the insects using digestive enzymes secreted from the sticky glands. The digestion process can take 1 – 3 weeks during which it obtains nitrogen and other nutrients from their little corpses. This may sound a bit on the morbid side but I find it fascinating.

This adaptation allows Round-Leaved Sundew to thrive in the poor nutrient conditions of bogs, marshes, fens and other marginal wetland habitats like lake shores and even floating logs in lakes. In these conditions, it thrives, in part because few other plants can so it has minimal competition. This also puts them at threat due to the loss of our wetlands. While the populations are still secure they are becoming seriously threatened locally in some areas due to habitat loss. They are also challenging to cultivate due to the need for a long period of winter dormancy to develop their winter buds known as hibernacula. Hibernacula allow cold-adapted aquatic plants to survive harsh winter conditions. Cultivars are now available that do not require this, but then they are cultivars and not the wild type.

Description of Round-Leaved Sundew Drosera rotundifolia

Stem & Leaves

Drosera rotundifolia is part of the Droseraceae family in the Caryophyllales order of flowering dicots. It is a very small plant, usually around 3 – 10 cm tall not including its inflorescence which can grow to a maximum of 35 cm tall. It forms a basal rosette of leaves 4 – 10 (2 – 15) cm in diameter. In winter it goes dormant forming hibernaculum, small buds of tightly coiled leaves that can survive the harsh winters.

Leaves are erect or prostrate on petioles 1.5 – 5 cm in length. It has stipules 4 – 6 mm long that are adnate to their petioles along their entire length. Petioles are glandular-pilose (covered with sticky glandular hairs).

Leaves are suborbicular (almost round) and are 0.4 – 1 cm long by 0.5–1.2 cm wide. They are wider than they are long and they are always shorter than their petioles. Leaves, like the petioles, are glandular-pilose covered with sticky glands used to capture and digest their prey.

Flowers & Fruits

The flowers appear from June to September in one-sided inflorescences of 2 – 15 (-25) flowers on scapes that grow up to 35 cm tall but are usually 10 – 20 cm tall. Individual flowers are 4 – 7 mm in diameter with 5 white to pink spatulate petals 5 – 6 mm long by 3 mm wide. Its oblong sepals are basally connate and 4 – 5 mm long by 1.5 – 2 mm wide.

Its fruit is a 5 mm capsule with light brown 1 – 1.5 mm fusiform seeds with longitudinal striations.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Drosera rotundifolia is such a unique plant from the unique Droseraceae family that it would be impossible to mistake it for any other genus. However, there are multiple species of Drosera in North America that it could be confused with. Some hybrids are forming in North America with intermediate morphological features, none of them have the distinct round (suborbicular) leaves of Drosera rotundifolia. The different species of Drosera in North America can be differentiated as follows:

  • Drosera anglica – the Greater Sundew – looks similar and grows in similar habitats but more in western North America, in the east it is more restricted to Canada and the most northern US states. This one is easily differentiated however by its long narrow linear–spatulate leaves that are never round (suborbicular) like the Round-Leaved Sundew. See the two images below with Drosera rotundifolia on the left and Drosera anglica on the right.
  • Drosera capillaris – the Pink Sundew – looks similar and grows in similar habitats but is found at low elevations only and is found in the southeastern part of the US, southern Mexico, Caribbean and northern South America. It can be easily differentiated by its very pink flowers and its appressed rosette of leaves that grow very close to the ground and are never erect.
  • Drosera brevifolia – the Red Sundew has a similar range as Drosera capillaris and can be differentiated by its small size, seldom more than 3 cm across, and its wedge-shaped red leaves.
Drosera rotundifolia with its round suborbicular leaves
Drosera rotundifolia with its round suborbicular leaves
Drosera anglica with its linear-spatulate leaves
Drosera anglica with its linear–spatulate leaves

Distribution of Round-Leaved Sundew Drosera rotundifolia

Round-Leaved Sundew has a circumboreal native distribution, found throughout the entire Northern Hemisphere south to the subtropics.

In Canada Drosera rotundifolia is native in all provinces and all northern territories.

In the USA, Round-Leaved Sundew is native to Alaska, Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Montana, Colorado, North Dakota, Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, Delaware, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine. It is absent from the interior deserts and plains.

Round-Leaved Sundew is not found in Mexico or anywhere south of the southern USA.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Round-Leaved Sundew

Drosera rotundifolia is a carnivorous plant adapted to the low nitrogen conditions of bogs, fens, and marshes. It is also found in wet stands of black spruce, silty and boggy shorelines and wet sands. Round-Leaved Sundew can even be found on floating logs in lakes. It is found from 0 – 3000 m elevations and is often quite common in mountain bogs, fens and swamps.

Drosera rotundifolia prefers wet and acidic soil types found in wetlands and will not tolerate drought. It prefers open sun but will grow in part shade. It will not grow in full shade. Round-Leaved Sundew is not found outside of these habitat types. As a result, it is becoming threatened in some places where too many wetlands have been drained or otherwise lost.

Growing Round-Leaved Sundew in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They also provide important wildlife and biodiversity values.

You can purchase plants from your local nursery specializing in native species and grow them in your wetland garden. If you do not live in a cold enough climate you may need to purchase a cultivar that does not require winter dormancy. Plant it in sunny locations in moist poorly-drained soils with an acidic pH. They will grow particularly well with mosses and on the edges of ponds. If starting from seed start plants in peat pellets and when they are large enough transplant the peat pot into your chosen spot.

If you want to grow this plant but do not have a wetland garden already please do your research on wetland plants. You will need a low spot with poor drainage and if you do not have one you will need to artificially create one. I will not get into that here because that is a whole separate article.

Drosera rotundifolia Round-Leaved Sundew in Flower growing on a floating log in a lake.
Drosera rotundifolia Round-Leaved Sundew in Flower growing on a floating log in a lake.

Wildlife Values of Round-Leaved Sundew

Bog-dwelling ants are opportunistic scavengers that obtain a significant portion of their diet by scavenging prey stuck in the sticky leaves of Drosera rotundifolia. Moose have been seen eating Round-Leaved Sundew in Alaska.

Status of Drosera rotundifolia

Round-Leaved Sundew, with its circumboreal distribution, is considered Globally Secure, G5 and IUCN Least Concern.

In Canada Round-Leaved Sundew is Locally Secure S5 in BC, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland including Labrador. It is Apparently Secure S4 in Saskatchewan and Manitoba. In the Yukon Territories it is considered Vulnerable. It has no status rank (unassessed) in Nunavut and the Northwest Territories.

In the USA Drosera rotundifolia is not considered Locally Secure in any state. It is Apparently Secure S4 in Rhode Island and Virginia. Round-Leaved Sundew is Vulnerable S3 in Montana, Indiana, Ohio, West Virginia, Maryland and North Carolina. It is Imperiled S2 in Colorado, Illinois, Delaware and Georgia. It is Critically Imperiled S1 in North Dakota, Illinois, Tennessee and Alabama. In all the other states it is found it has no status rank (unassessed).

Round-Leaved Sundew is not found in Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses of Round-Leaved Sundew

Drosera rotundifolia Medicinal Uses

In North America various First Nations peoples, particularly the Kwakiutl used the plant as a dermatological aid for warts, bunions, and corns. The Kwakiutl also used it as a love potion.

In Europe the glistening secretions on the leaves used to be used in anti-aging potions because it was believed to be a source of youth and virility. It has also been used as an antibiotic to treat tuberculosis and other respiratory infections. Sometimes it was also used as a love potion because of its ability to lure and trap helpless insects to its sticky leaves.

Drosera rotundifolia has been studied in recent times and shows potential as an anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic.

Round-Leaved Sundew as an Ornamental or Tools

In Sweden the leaves of Round-Leaved Sundew were used to curdle milk and make cheese.

Early settlers sometimes extracted a red fluid from sundews to use as ink.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Drosera rotundifolia

Check the status in your state or province before harvesting since it is imperiled, threatened or vulnerable in several states and provinces. See above section on Status. Alternatively, purchase plants from your local nursery and grow them in your wetland garden. If you do not live in a cold enough climate you may need to purchase the cultivar that does not require winter dormancy.

If you are harvesting Drosera rotundifolia from the wild as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 leaves or plants you see, but only if the population is large and stable. Do not harvest from marginal wetlands.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked leaves or plants can be placed in a bowl or a jar. Do not use paper bags as you will lose all the sticky juices to the paper bags.

Medicinally Round-Leaved Sundew is generally used fresh. Store it in a glass jar in the fridge until needed. Generally speaking fresh herbs in the fridge do not last more than 1 – 2 weeks.

You can also plant the entire plant in your garden in peat-rich moist soil substrates and grow the plants to extend their medicinal benefits and enjoy the plant themselves. If you live in a cold enough climate and provide the right conditions it could return year after year. Do not feed the plants, and keep them very moist.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Fire Effects Information System on Drosera rotundifolia https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/forb/drorot/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN https://www.iucnredlist.org/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Drosera rotundifolia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drosera_rotundifolia

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Callery Pear is an Invasive Species of North America

Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  flowers
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear flowers

Introduction

Pyrus calleryana is often called the Bradford Pear after the cultivar that was planted widely in the US in the 1960s and 1970s and still sometimes is today. However, the Bradford Pear itself is an infertile cultivar, hence the more appropriate common name of the Callery Pear. The Bradford Pear cultivar can neither self-pollinate or cross-pollinate with the same cultivar as its seeds are infertile. However, if different cultivars of Pyrus calleryana are grown within 100 m of each other they can cross-pollinate and produce fertile offspring. The resulting Callery Pear is a fast-growing aggressive tree with a broad ecological tolerance, rapid growth, few pests and early sexual maturity. It produces abundant tiny fruits with abundant tiny seeds. The fruits are hard and woody but soften after a hard frost and become appealing to birds which then spread their seeds around. It quickly replaces native vegetation wherever its seeds have a chance to grow. Once established, removing or controlling Callery or Bradford Pear can be challenging.

Do not buy any cultivars of Pyrus calleryana because they may cross-pollinate and spread in the wild. The Bradford / Callery Pear story is a perfect example of why we should not buy supposed “sterile cultivars” of invasive species because we never know how they will behave until they have already escaped into the wild. Supposed sterile cultivars of Scotch Broom and Purple Loosestrife have also done a similar thing. Instead, research plants that are native to your area and plant those. Native plants tend to be naturally resistant to pathogens and insects, require little watering or feeding, and promote biodiversity and wildlife values. Also, there are always lovely native plants everywhere that are just as beautiful as invasive cultivars, if we just look for them we will find them.

Description of Pyrus calleryana

Leaves & Stems

Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  leaves closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear leaves closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  mature trunk closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear mature trunk closeup

The Callery Pear is a deciduous tree that can grow 5 – 20 m tall and has a trunk that is up to 0.6m in diameter. The trunk, however, often splits into multiple branches that tend to break easily in storms damaging the tree and shortening its usefulness as a landscape tree. Its branches are reddish-brown when young and become grayish-brown with age with vertical grooves in the older bark.

Pyrus calleryana simple leaves are arranged alternately on the stem. They are 4 – 9 cm long and are on 2 – 4.5 cm long petioles. Leaf blades are ovate, broadly ovate or oblong–lanceolate. The surface is shiny green glabrous (hairless) with undulate (wavy) and slightly toothed margins. In fall the leaves turn yellow, orange, and red before falling off for the winter.

Leaf shape can be variable and these indicate the different varieties of Pyrus calleryana. For the purpose of invasive species removal or control, identification to the species level alone is sufficient. There will always be variations in morphology because the wild species are all hybrids of various cultivars and as such will generally exhibit intermediate characteristics between its two parent varieties.

Flowers & Fruits

Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear  flowers closeup
Pyrus calleryana Callery Pear Bradford Pear flowers closeup

Callery Pear flowers in April and May just before the leaves appear. The flowers are malodorous smelling somewhat of rotten fish. Flowers are 2.5 cm wide with 5 white obovate petals 6 – 7 (–13) mm long and × 6 – 7 (–13) mm wide.

Pyrus calleryana has numerous stamens with white filaments and topped with reddish or brownish anthers. Its ovaries are 2 – 3 (–4)-locular and they are topped with 2 or 3 styles.

Fruits are small pomes (like an apple), around 1 cm in diameter and globular (round) in shape. They are green when young in late spring and summer but turn brown when ripe in the fall and winter. They contain numerous cyanide-laced seeds inside.

Similar Species Callery Pear is Frequently Confused With

There are numerous species, mostly in the Pyrus (pear) and Prunus (plum and cherry) genera that Pyrus calleryana could be confused with as well as some other genera. All genera it can be confused with are in the Rosaceae or Rose family. Sometimes people confuse it with Populus species as well, but the appearance of the flowers in the spring will easily distinguish it from those.

  • Pyrus communis – the Common Pear has very similar flowers and leaves but its mature bark has horizontal and vertical grooves in it making it more of a checkerboard-like pattern than the vertical striations of Pyrus communis. Its leaves are usually smooth-margined rather than undulate. Also, the fruits grow much, much larger, are pear-shaped and edible.
  • Crataegus spp – there are multiple Crataegus species in its range in North America that, like many Rosaceae, have very similar flowers. However, Crataegus species always have variously lobed leaves compared to the simple unlobed leaves of Pyrus calleryana.
  • Prunus avium – the Wild Cherry has a similar range, similar leaves and flowers. Its bark is smoother and shinier, lacking any longitudinal or horizontal grooving. The smooth bark does, however, possess numerous horizontal lenticels (slightly raised striations). Its fruits are also larger and of varying shades of red or sometimes yellow when ripe. The fruits have a single pit and are edible.
  • Prunus mahaleb – the St. Lucia Cherry or American Black Cherry has a similar range, leaves and flowers as well. However, it never grows to more than a large shrub up to 5 m tall. Its bark lacks the grooves of Pyrus calleryana and it has horizontal striations. Its bitter fruits are also black when ripe and possess a single pit.
  • Prunus mexicana – the Mexican Plum has a similar range, leaves and flowers as well. However, its filaments on its many stamens are often pink, the flowers are often pinkish-white, and its fruits are larger, plum-like and pinkish to purple when ripe rather than brown.
  • Prunus cerasifera – the Myrobalan Plum or Plum-Cherry has similar flowers, leaves and range. However, its flowers are either white or pink and the anthers are typically yellow rather than reddish or brownish. The fruits are yellow to reddish in color when ripe and are edible and larger, to 2-3 cm in diameter.
  • Prunus serotina – the Capulin or Black Cherry has a similar range, leaves and flowers too but the flowers grow in elongated racemes instead of umbels. Also, its bark is more smooth and covered with horizontal striations. The somewhat bitter fruits are a bit larger and are reddish-black to black in color with a single pit as opposed to brown with multiple seeds.
  • Viburnum prunifolium – this Rosaceae member has similar leaves and range as Pyrus communis. However, its flowers are much smaller, to 0.9 cm in diameter, they only have 5 stamens, and they are arranged in tighter umbels with more flowers.

Native Distribution of Pyrus calleryana

The Callery Pear is native to Asia in China, Japan, Korea, Taiwan and Vietnam.

Habitat Types Where Bradford Pear is Found

Callery Pear can be found growing in empty lots, mixed forests, forest edges, thickets and plains. It can grow from 0 – 800 m in elevation. It prefers full sun but can tolerate part shade. Pyrus calleryana does not grow in full shade.

Pyrus calleryana is tolerant of a very wide range of soil types and pH. It easily tolerates the poor soils and polluted conditions of living in urban environments. It can grow in poor and rich soil alike. Callery Pear tolerates a range of soil conditions and will tolerate temporarily water-logged soils and temporary droughts. However, it will not survive extended periods of flooding or extended periods of drought.

Human Uses of Bradford Pear

Callery Pear Pyrus calleryana as Ornamental or Tools

The Bradford Pear was widely planted in the USA in the 1960s and 1970s as a fast-growing and low-maintenance landscape tree. As a landscape tree, it produces abundant white flowers in spring and has red foliage in the fall making it a desirable ornamental despite the malodorous flowers. Callery Pear is often used as a rootstock to graft fruit cultivars onto.

Callery Pear wood, like all Pyrus wood, is very fine-textured and sometimes used for making musical instruments, veneer, woodcuts, or other fine wooden products.

Distribution of Pyrus calleryana in North America

The species was first brought to North America in 1909. It was later widely planted in the 1960s and 1970s in the USA.

In Canada, Pyrus calleryana has not yet been recorded on Canadensys. However, there have been reports on iNaturalist in southern Ontario, Nova Scotia and possibly in southern BC. It is not clear if those are all planted or wild specimens. Given that it is invasive just south of the border in these locations it seems likely that it may start spreading more into Canada soon.

In the USA, Callery Pear has been introduced in Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Virginia, Delaware, Washington DC, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, and Massachusetts. On iNaturalist it is also reported in Colorado and all along the west coast but most of these may be intentional plantings of cultivars that may or may not yet have escaped into the wild.

In Mexico Pyrus calleryana so far has only been reported in Tamaulipas. Given its close proximity to the northern Mexican border on the US side, it is likely that it will spread more in the near future.

How Callery Pear Spreads

Callery Pear is primarily spread through long-distance by deliberate human introductions as garden and landscape ornamentals. While the Bradford Pear itself is infertile it can cross-pollinate with other cultivars of Pyrus calleryana and the Asian Pear Pyrus betulifolia which can then produce fertile seeds and spread in the wild. Also, fertile varieties are often used as the rootstock when grafting. If the infertile crown of the tree is damaged sometimes the fertile rootstock will then grow and produce fertile fruits.

Short-distance dispersal occurs primarily through birds and humans. The hard fruits become soft after a frost and are a popular winter food source for winter birds in North America. The birds eat the winter fruits and spread the abundant fertile seeds in their feces. Even without fruits Callery Pear also reproduces short distances vegetatively through suckers.

Humans can also spread the seeds short distances unintentionally on their shoes or clothes. Often the disposal of unwanted trees or branches removed from pruning while in fruit results in infestations from yard waste piles when they are not burned or properly disposed of.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Callery Pear often forms dense patches in abandoned fields, empty lots, disturbed areas and on roadsides. It can invade any riparian area, open mixed forests, meadows, thickets, mountain slopes and anywhere else its fertile seeds land and grow. Since it is tolerant of such a wide range of soil conditions this means that many habitats are at risk.

It generally will not invade dense forests, particularly coniferous ones. Also, it typically does not invade permanent wetlands except where drier conditions exist. It does not tolerate severe drought so will not invade desert areas.

Impacts of Invasion by Pyrus calleryana

Pyrus calleryana often creates dense near monoculture stands, particularly in disturbed areas, roadsides and old fields. It can also gain a significant foothold in open mixed forests. They out-compete the native vegetation and significantly reduce the biodiversity in the area upon infestation. Once a dense stand is created it can be difficult to remove.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Birds enjoy Callery Pears abundant fruits throughout the winter, including many native birds. However, the birds are the primary dispersal method and would likely have eaten native fruits left on trees that were displaced by the Callery Pear.

Methods to Remove Bradford or Callery Pear

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Pyrus calleryana cultivars. Even though Bradford Pear themselves may be infertile they can cross-pollinate with other cultivars and escape into the wild. Do not plant it in your yard. Instead, research native species to your region. Native species require little or no maintenance, are very beautiful and provide wildlife and biodiversity values.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Inform them that though supposedly infertile they are still able to cross-pollinate with other cultivars and they are spreading in the wild. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Physical Control of Bradford or Callery Pear

Once already established physical control is always the most effective means to remove Callery Pear. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but it causes the least amount of environmental damage.

The best time to remove Callery Pear is in the early spring either before or during flowering but before the plant sets fruit to avoid dispersing the seeds around.

Physical methods to remove Callery Pear depend on the size. Young seedlings or trees can simply be pulled out. When the ground is moist it makes removal easy as the roots cling less tightly to the soil when it is moist. Young trees can be pulled out with a weed-puller like the one shown in the affiliate ads below.

Mature trees on the other hand will need to be cut down and then the root pulled out by digging it with a shovel or machine, depending on the size. If it is too difficult to remove the root then you can deal with it one of three ways. First, you can solarize the stump with a plastic tarp by laying the tarp over the stump and weighing it down with rocks. Leave it like that at least until the following year. The second method is to return to the site every year and cut any sprouts that try to grow. Eventually, it will starve out the root. The final method is to chemically treat the stump with a herbicide.

Another method to control large trees in areas that make them difficult to remove is to ring the bark. Using a very sharp knife cut into the bark and remove a horizontal patch at least 5 cm wide all the way around the tree. Be sure to remove all bark in this patch down to the heartwood. This prevents the tree from transporting nutrients and water up and the products of photosynthesis down. This effectively starves the tree so that it will eventually die. It would still need monitoring however to be sure that no new sprouts try to start from its stump.

Disposal of the Trees Once Removed

If you have plants that have seeds on them they must either be burned or solarized. Do not dispose of them in yard waste if they have mature fruits. Large trees can also be cut into firewood. If you do not have a fireplace and are not allowed yard burning in your area then you will need to solarize them before disposal. To solarize put the trees under a thick black tarp and leave them in the full sun for a good 6 – 10 weeks at least to be sure that all seeds are no longer viable. If there are no fruits on the trees you can dispose of them in yard waste.

Chemical Control of Bradford or Callery Pear

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. It is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Pyrus calleryana. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

However, the one suitable exception is the chemical treatment of large root stocks that you are unable to dig out mechanically or by hand. Ideally solarize or return to the area as part of an ongoing monitoring process. If you are unable to do either then chemical control of Callery Pear stumps can be a good alternative as you are only treating the stump to prevent re-sprouting. Research herbicides safe for use in your area and treat only the stump. If it is in a riparian area you may not be able to use this method due to proximity to water. Ideally you should still return the following year to be sure that nothing survived.

Biological Control of Callery Pear

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of plants and their seeds to actually control the Callery Pear on their own.

Unfortunately, Pyrus calleryana seems resistant to pests of all kinds. It is part of what made it desirable as a landscape plant. Also, finding suitable pathogens is tricky because if they could be found even testing them in the field could put commercial Pyrus and Prunus crops at risk. While insects and grazers alike will feed on the pear, particularly when young, they are ineffective as a control measure on their own. And once Pyrus calleryana reaches a significant size large herbivores will no longer be able to reach the foliage.

However, young stands of Callery Pears could be controlled with the use of goats which are known to eat anything. Provided that all the trees are young and can be reached by the goats they can be penned in. They will continuously feed on the young trees and over time will destroy any sprouts or seedlings that emerge. This is only suitable in dense young stands, however, as the goats will also eat any native species in their vicinity. The goats would need to remain in the patch for a couple of seasons.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting and ongoing monitoring.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In most cases of removal, the site would ideally be replanted with native species to prevent invasive species from re-establishing in the bare soil that was left behind. A replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon the removal of Callery Pear. You would need to research plants native to your area and study the site to determine which species would be most suitable. Ideally, gather seed stock from the surrounding area to ensure you have local ecotypes suitable to the area. If this is not possible then buy from a nursery specializing in native species to ensure that you are not planting cultivars of native species.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Callery Pear removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Callery Pear is aggressive and prolific and can out-compete planted vegetation. Yearly monitoring to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established can prevent this. Yearly monitoring in late spring followed by removal of all sprouts and seedlings will be sufficient for a monitoring program.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Pyrus calleryana https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrus_calleryana

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Hura polyandra Haba Habillo - Native Plant of the Week

Hura polyandra Haba tree's female flower and leaves
Hura polyandra Haba tree’s female flower and leaves

Habillo Hura polyandra – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

The first time I saw the large spines all over the trunk of this tree I was impressed. Hura polyandra is part of the Euphorbiaceae family and like many other members of this family the latex it secretes from its trunk and branches is highly toxic and can be fatal if ingested. Known locally as Haba or Habillo, depending on where you are, this tree is a formidable tree that demands respect by its very appearance.

I am not sure why exactly but I love poisonous, carnivorous, and otherwise weird and strange plants. And the more dangerous they look in terms of spines, thorns, etc the better. So when I saw this Haba tree and heard of its deadly latex, I fell in love. Then I saw the beautiful leaves, and later the amazing flowers and fruit, and I was even more in love. It is a magnificent tree!

Description of Habillo Hura polyandra

Stem & Leaves

Hura polyandra trunk with thorns
Hura polyandra trunk with thorns
Hura polyandra leaf showing toothed edges and prominent pinnate venation
Hura polyandra leaf showing toothed edges and prominent pinnate venation

Haba is a deciduous tree that grows up to 20 (-30) m tall and up to 45 (-70) cm wide with a straight trunk. The trunk is covered with numerous very sharp 0.6 – 1.4 cm long thorns originating from circular cushions on the trunk. It has a wide crown formed by thick horizontal branches and hanging twigs. The brownish-grey outer bark when young is smooth and covered densely with thorns but as it matures it has fewer thorns and the bark becomes more fissured and scaly. The inner bark is cream-colored and exudes abundant toxic latex.

Leaves are simple and arranged alternately on the branches hanging from long petioles 5 – 20 cm long. They are broadly ovate to orbicular in shape and measure 9 – 17 cm long and 9 – 16 cm wide. Leaf margins are toothed, the apex is thin-pointed acuminate while the base is cordate. Leaf margins have small white glands and there are 2 larger green glands at the base of each leaf. Leaves are bright lightish green or yellowish-green on both sides, but duller on the abaxial (lower) side. Leaf venation is pinnate and very prominent on the abaxial side.

Flowers & Fruits

Hura polyandra female flower
Hura polyandra female flower
Haba in fruit
Hura polyandra fruit

Habillo is a monoecious tree having separate male and female flowers that appear on the same plant. Usually it flowers from June to August but can flower at other times of the year, depending on the weather and timing of the wet season.

Male flowers are in axillary spikes 12 -16 cm long on a hollow axis. They are sessile and lack petals. They are attached to a 1 – 1.5 cm long on a narrow conical axis with numerous sessile white anthers, somewhat reminiscent of a conifer male cone.

Female flowers on the other hand are solitary, axillary on peduncles up 10 10 cm long. They also lack petals, are zygomorphic and are 6 – 7 cm long. It has a superior multilocular ovary topped with a thick fleshy circular style that is hollow at the top and it is divided into 15 – 19 conical fleshy long radially organized appendages (stigmas) that appear somewhat petal-like at first glance.

Its fruit is a large 5 – 10 cm diameter and 5 – 6 cm tall woody capsule that appears pumpkin-shaped. It is green when young but turns brown as it matures and becomes covered in numerous lenticels. When fully mature it breaks into 15 – 19 explosively dehiscent segments (carpels). They explode with such force they can be heard from far away and seeds are scattered tens of meters from the parent plant. Seeds are dark brown and discoid in shape.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Without foliage or flowers, people sometimes confuse Haba with the Ceiba genus of the Malvaceae family because of the large conical spines. However, the spines of Ceiba are much more geometrically, almost perfectly conical while Hura polyandra spines are a little smaller, still impressive, but smaller and less geometric. Then, as soon as either has leaves, flowers, or fruit they are very simple to differentiate because of the large wide ovate leaves of Hura polyandra as opposed to the compound leaves of the Ceiba genus. The flowers and fruits are also widely different since they come from unrelated families, but the leaves will be enough to tell them apart.

Other than that, within the Euphorbiaceae family, there is one other Hura species with similar leaves and fruit that it could be mistaken with. It also shares some of the same range being native to the Caribbean, Florida USA, Central America, and tropical South America with some scattered individuals in southern Mexico. They can be differentiated by Hura crepitans evergreen as opposed to deciduous leaves, and its much larger size to 60 m as opposed to 30 m and its much larger leaves up to 60 cm wide as opposed to 16 cm wide in Hura polyandra.

Distribution of Haba Habillo Hura polyandra

Haba or Habillo is only found in Mexico and northern Central America, it is not found in the USA or Canada.

In Mexico Hura polyandra is found in Sinaloa, Durango, Nayarit , Jalisco, Colima, Michoacan, Guerrero, Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, Veracruz, Chiapas, Tabasco, Quintana Roo, and possibly also in Morelos and Tamaulipas.

In Central America Haba or Habillo is found in Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, and Costa Rica.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Habillo, Haba

Hura polyandra grows in dry, deciduous forests in regions with long dry seasons and periods of drought. It grows in full sun and part shade. Haba tolerates thin, rocky soils common in dry forests. It grows from low to middle elevations up to 1200 m above sea level.

Growing Haba in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They also provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

If you live in a warm southern climate Habillo will be very easy to grow. Starting trees from seed can be a tedious process however as it takes several years for them to get to a size where they can be transplanted in your garden. So far, likely due to toxicity, this plant is not seen for sale by nurseries. You could wildcraft some seeds, following good Ethical Wildcrafting principles of course. And then start the seeds and plant the tree once it is large enough.

It can be planted in poor soil in full sun, but amend the soil with some organic compost and also feed it a thin layer of top-dressing of compost to help retain moisture and provide food during its establishment phase. Once established it will require no further maintenance. It is a lovely tree with interesting spines, gorgeous leaves, unique flowers and fruits. A great addition to any garden. Just be sure to keep young children away from it.

Wildlife Values of Habillo

No information on wildlife values could be found. Personally, I have seen birds roosting in trees but I have never seen nesting. This may be because the trees I saw were all fairly young. Due to its toxicity, nothing is known to eat the leaves, seeds, flowers, or fruits.

Status of Hura polyandra

In Mexico Hura polyandra is considered Least Concern according to the IUCN who last assessed it in 2018. Its population based on the number of mature individuals is considered stable.

Haba or Habillo is not found in either USA or Canada.

Traditional or Other Uses of Habillo

Hura polyandra Medicinal Uses

Despite its toxic nature Hura polyandra is occasionally used medicinally. The seeds possess violent purgative properties. Leaves are used for various gastrointestinal complaints including stomach pain, constipation, and as a purgative. It used to also be commonly used to expel intestinal parasites. Due to its toxic nature that has resulted in numerous deaths the medicinal use of Hura polyandra is not recommended.

Habillo as an Ornamental or Tools

It is sometimes used as a living fence to denote property boundaries and is also used as an ornamental tree due to its beautiful leaves and interesting thorns when in the dry season. It is occasionally used as a street tree in some locations but its toxicity prevents its widespread use due to concerns of poisonings.

The latex is sometimes used to stun fish to facilitate their capture. Occasionally the seeds are fed to noxious animals to kill them.

The wood is sometimes used in carpentry but not often due to complaints of irritation from the sawdust when it gets into the eyes and lungs.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Hura polyandra

Ethical wildcrafting of Hura polyandra is not recommended. It is a dangerously toxic tree and for this reason, should never be used medicinally under any circumstances. If you are wildcrafting for other purposes as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 leaves or fruits you see.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Wear gloves when harvesting any part of the plant as the latex alone on the skin can cause severe dermatological reactions in sensitive individuals. Picked fruits and leaves can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants. As with any toxic plant ALWAYS label “TOXIC IF INGESTED” on the harvesting container, on the drying rack, and on storage jars where processed goods are stored. This will prevent anyone from mistaking it for something else and accidentally ingesting it, causing severe illness and possibly death.

To dry the leaves simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Fruits can be dried in the sun and when almost dry place them in a clear fine-mesh cloth bag or a paper bag so that when they split open the toxic seeds are contained within. Do not dry in a food dehydrator due to their toxicity, you would not want to contaminate any food dried afterward.

Once dried the leaves and seeds can be stored in a jar. Label your jar with the species name and the date of harvest, I also usually add the location of harvest for my own reference. As with any toxic plant ALWAYS label “TOXIC IF INGESTED” on the jar to prevent accidental poisonings.

References and Resources

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/62003558/149008229

Maya Ethnobotony on Hura polyandra http://www.maya-ethnobotany.org/plants-of-the-mayan-civilization-flowers-lumber-trees-mexico-belize-guatemala-honduras/hura-polyandra-euphorbiaceae-medicinal-plants-maya-culture-tropical-forest-species.php

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Kudzu (Pueraria montana) is an Invasive Species of North America

Kudzu Pueraria montana plants in Vickery Creek Park, Roswell, Georgia
Kudzu Pueraria montana plants in Vickery Creek Park, Roswell, Georgia – They call this “The vine that ate the south”

Introduction

Kudzu is the collective term for several Pueraria species, members of the Fabaceae family. There are multiple species and varieties that can be difficult to distinguish and there is some debate as to whether we even should, or just lump them into one or two more variable species. Regardless of the species debate Pueraria species are highly aggressive and invasive weeds in most places where they are introduced. I have only seen them a few times myself when I was in the eastern USA but there they grow over top of everything, including the other aggressive native and non-native vines found there. Kudzu was encouraged to be planted by the US government in the 1940s for erosion control. Now millions of dollars are spent annually trying to control or remove Kudzu. It is often referred to as “the vine that ate the south”.

Description of Pueraria montana

Leaves & Stems of Kudzu

Kudzu Pueraria montana leaves closeup

Kudzu vines are part of the Pueraria genus in the Fabaceae (legume) family of the Fabales order of dicot flowering plants. The most common species in North America is Pueraria montana var lobata, but many people still refer to it as Pueraria montana. The distinctions are subtle, and the vines in North America of all Pueraria species are able to hybridize and distinctions between them become hazy. Once identified to the species level, for the sake of treating it as a noxious weed at least, further classification is rarely necessary and may be left to a professional. The characteristics described here define Pueraria montana in all its variants and subspecies forms.

Pueraria montana is a herbaceous perennial vine that will climb over anything when it is able or sprawl across the ground where there is nothing to climb. It has strong stems that are 0.6 – 2.5 cm in diameter and can be up to 30 m in length. They are incredibly fast-growing, up to 25 cm per day or 18 m in the growing season where the conditions are right.

Kudzu grows from enormous tubers that are up to 2 m long and 18 – 45 cm wide that can weigh up to 180 kg on mature individuals. Like many Fabaceae, it is capable of nitrogen fixation through its root nodules allowing it to grow in poor soil conditions.

Kudzu has pinnately arranged trifoliate leaves 8 – 20 cm long and 5 – 19 cm wide. Its leaflets are ovate to orbicular and are either entire or lobed. Leaflets are pale green above and paler to grayish-green below. They are usually hairy on the abaxial (under) side.

Flowers & Fruits of Kudzu

The fragrant pea-like flowers are reddish, purplish or bluish in color and frequently have yellow patches. Flowers grow from the leaf axils in elongated mostly unbranched inflorescences 10 – 25 cm long. Each flower is 2 – 2.5 cm wide.

The fruits are flattened oblong pods that are 4 – 13 cm long and 0.6 – 1.3 cm wide. They are green when young but turn brown with golden hairs when they mature. The flattened ovoid seeds are visible through the pods and are 4 – 5 mm long by 4 mm wide. They are reddish-brown when mature. While Kudzu is fully capable of pollinator-assisted sexual reproduction, it relies mostly on vegetative reproduction to spread.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

It is difficult to confuse Kudzu with other genera due to the large ovate trifoliate leaves. Sometimes people mistake English Ivy Hedera helix of the Araliaceae family or Poison Ivy Toxicodendron radicans of the Anacardiaceae Family because they have a similar range. However, neither of these are from the Fabaceae family and will have very different flowers. Also, their leaflets in general are much smaller and seldom to never ovate in shape. The only other vine of the pea family that it could be mistaken with is Amphicarpaea bracteata described below.

There are 2 Kudzu species in the Americas, and one of the species has a variant that is similar enough to simply be a variant and in most cases identification down to the variant level is unnecessary. Some people believe Pueraria montana var lobata is the one whose leaflets are lobed, but Pueraria montana itself may also have lobed leaves. Differences are subtle, and many hybridize, so we will leave Pueraria montana identification to the species level only here. The other species is often referred to as Tropical Kudzu and it has a much more limited distribution. It can be differentiated as follows:

  • Tropical Kudzu Pueraria phaseoloides – is only found in a handful of locations in the eastern USA and in Veracruz, Mexico. Its flowers are white and purple instead of red, blue or purple with yellow. Its leaflets tend to be much smaller, but can sometimes grow as large, and they tend to be triangular but occasionally may be ovate. And they can also hybridize with the other Pueraria species, further blurring the lines of identification.
  • American Hog-Peanut Amphicarpaea bracteata – native to the eastern USA and grows in similar habitats as Kudzu and has trifoliate leaves that look similar, but are usually much smaller. Its flowers are smaller and fewer and are usually white or light pink, never red, blue or purple. Its fruit is usually much smaller and is never golden-hairy.

Native Distribution of Pueraria montana

Pueraria montana is native to East Asia, southeast Asia and some Pacific Islands. It is common in China and Japan.

Habitat Types Where Kudzu is Found

Kudzu can grow in most habitats including forests, riparian areas, roads, fields, along fence rows, and any abandoned lots, buildings, waste areas etc. It is often seen hanging off of trees it has killed, telephone poles, abandoned buildings, vehicles, etc. In China it is often seen on road embankments and in mountains where the land cannot be cultivated.

Kudzu is an opportunistic vine that grows in almost any soil type excluding very wet soils or those with high pH. It can easily grow in nutrient-poor sandy or clayey soils though it prefers well-drained loam.

Human Uses of Kudzu

Kudzu as Food

The large tubers of Kudzu are frequently eaten as a starchy root vegetable. Kudzu leaves, shoots and flowers are often steamed or pickled and eaten as a vegetable.

Kudzu vines are often used as a nutritious forage for livestock.

Kudzu as Medicine

Kudzu root, flower, and leaf have all been used to make medicines, especially in China since at least 200 BC. It is used to treat a variety of ailments including heart and circulatory problems, high blood pressure, chest pain, sinus infections, colds, hay fever, flu and skin problems including allergies, itchiness and psoriasis. It is also sometimes used to treat menopause, muscle pains, measles, dysentery, gastritis, fever, diarrhea, stiff neck, polio, encephalitis, migraine, diabetes and traumatic injury.

Kudzu is a common treatment for hangovers from too much alcohol and has been used in China and Japan for this since 600 AD. It is still widely used today to reduce the symptoms of hangovers including headaches, upset stomach, vomiting, and dizziness.

Kudzu as Ornamental

Kudzu is often used as a garden ornamental. It is sometimes also used to stabilize slopes. Due to its noxious nature, this is done less often now, but still occasionally happens.

Distribution of Pueraria spp in North America

Kudzu was first brought to the USA from Japan at the Japanese pavilion in the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. It was extensively planted in the US in the 1930s and 1940s to control erosion. While multiple species have been introduced and have spread the most abundant species in North America is Pueraria montana var lobata.

In Canada, Pueraria montana has so far only been recorded in Ontario and was only discovered in 2009. Given that it is in Washington state just south of the British Columbia, Canada border it is likely only a matter of time before it appears in British Columbia.

In the USA, Kudzu is found in Washington, Oregon, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Washington DC, West Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Maine. It is also found in Hawaii, the Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico.

In Mexico Pueraria spp so far has been reported in Pueblo, and possibly in Oaxaca, Guerrero, Nayarit, Jalisco and Veracruz but the identifications could not be confirmed without flowers.

Kudzu has now been introduced on every continent except Antarctica.

How Kudzu Spreads

It is primarily spread through long distance by deliberate human introductions as a garden ornamental or landscape plant. It can be ordered online or purchased in local garden nurseries in some states. It is regulated as a pest in Canada and more difficult to purchase, though online sales are seldom regulated.

Seed dispersal is responsible for a small fraction of its spread. Seeds transported in soil will result in some short distance dispersal. However, short distance dispersal occurs mostly through vegetative reproduction as it is capable of rooting from its stem anywhere it touches soil of any quality. It can grow substantially in subtropical areas, up to 18 m in a single growing season. Yard debris piles where careless discarding of vines removed from yards is a significant source of introduction into the wild as is escaping from the yard itself to adjacent land.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Any open forest, forest edge, field, abandoned lot, riparian area, etc is at risk of invasion by Kudzu, particularly if they are located next to a source of Kudzu. Because Kudzu primarily reproduces by vegetative spread this slows the rate of invasion quite significantly in terms of distance. In local areas, however, it can rapidly overtake everything.

Kudzu so far has spread widely throughout eastern USA but it will likely spread more north into southern Canada, though so far its range is limited to southern Ontario. Southern Quebec and the Atlantic Provinces are also at risk. It will not invade wetlands or deserts as it cannot tolerate permanently wet soils or extended periods of drought. It can handle drought, however, as long as they are not too severe. It may not invade much of the central North America due to harsher winters. However, with climate change that is unpredictable.

There is still a lot of habitat suitable for it particularly on the west coast of North America including all of the western USA as well as British Columbia, Canada, and parts of Mexico. So far early detection has controlled its spread in these regions.

Impacts of Invasion

Kudzu is a large and aggressive vine that grows over all other vegetation it encounters smothering it and killing it creating monocultures. Even trees are eventually smothered and suffer from loss of photosynthetic capacity until eventually they die. Kudzu, therefore, results in dramatic losses of biodiversity in the area of infestation, negatively affecting native vegetation as well as wildlife that would otherwise feed, nest, or grow on the native plant species it displaces. Once introduced it is notoriously difficult to control.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Kudzu has often been used to stabilize slopes and does a good job of it. Also, it fixes almost all of its nitrogen and because of the die-back of its leaves it contributes a lot of nitrogen to the soil. After Kudzu is removed, providing you are successful in removing it, the soil is often richer as a result. However, the fact that it smothers and kills all other plant life growing in its vicinity outweighs its benefit as a soil stabilizer and enricher.

Kudzu growing over and smothering all vegetation in its path, Piedmont Park, Georgia, Photo from Wikipedia see credits below
Kudzu growing over and smothering all vegetation in its path, Piedmont Park, Georgia, Photo from Wikipedia see credits below.

Methods to Remove Kudzu

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in some local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Kudzu plants or roots and never plant them in your yard. It is illegal to purchase in many states and provinces. However, online sales are rarely properly regulated.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Once established in an area Kudzu is notoriously difficult to eradicate. Its extremely fast growth and its ability to smother everything in its path combined with its rapid ability to produce roots at any node which touches the soil all makes it difficult to control. Intensive ongoing effort and an integrated management approach are required in order to control or remove Kudzu infestations.

Physical Control of Kudzu

Once already established physical control is very challenging. Physical control of Kudzu is labor-intensive and time-consuming but will cause far less environmental damage than chemical control.

Since Kudzu spreads mostly vegetatively it can be removed in spring, summer, or fall without having to worry much about the seeds. If there are mature seeds on the plants clip them off into a paper bag to keep them contained in case they are fertile and can produce new plants.

The vines should be cut with hand cutters or loppers and pulled down from trees and structures they are climbing on. Then the tubers and all new roots will need to be carefully removed. Since it grows so quickly the biggest challenge in Kudzu removal is that every root crown must be destroyed or the population will recover. Physical removal must be part of an integrated management approach with continuous ongoing monitoring in order to be successful. The area will need to be revisited multiple times the first year to out compete its rapid growth and re-vegetation rate. Then the site will need to be revisited for 4 – 10 years afterward to ensure that every vine that tries to re-establish is destroyed. Even if a single root crown survives and is left to grow within just a few years it could take over the entire area once again.

Mechanical mowing of ground cover patches in flat open areas is a somewhat less labor-intensive approach that can be successful. Mowing repeatedly throughout the growing season for 3 – 5 years in a row will starve out the roots. Eventually, the plants will die without having above-ground material to photosynthesize in order to keep the roots alive.

Prescribed burning can be used in early spring before fire season if your area allows it. This will kill small kudzu plants and sever the climbing stems that are in the trees, poles, etc. Burning may not be effective for larger plants with intensive root systems as the fire may not ever get hot enough. Also, fire alone will not work. It will need to be followed up with physical removal and of course ongoing monitoring.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

Plants including roots, stems and seeds all must be either burned or solarized before disposal to prevent new populations from beginning at the disposal site. Burning is an effective method to destroy the plant matter, but it is not allowed in some areas or in certain seasons. In this case, solarize them instead. To solarize put the vines into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 6 – 8 weeks at least to be sure that none of the roots, stems or seeds are no longer viable. Do not try to solarize them on the ground under a tarp. Due to its extremely fast growth rate and rapid rooting at nodes the vines may be able to grow out from under the tarp and start new plants before the ones under the tarp are properly destroyed.

Once solarized the vines can be disposed of at your local garbage dump. Be sure to still inform them that they are an invasive species so that they can be disposed of accordingly, just in case there are still viable stems.

Chemical Control of Kudzu

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Kudzu. And due to the highly aggressive nature, large tuberous roots, and extremely fast growth rate of Kudzu multiple applications are always needed in a single growing season. If even a single root crown survives the treatment and goes undetected within a few years the Kudzu will again take over the area. Therefore applications must continue for 4 – 10 years after the initial treatment. If chemical control alone is used there will be an enormous amount of toxic chemicals being dumped into the environment, making it less suitable for native species.

Chemical control is not recommended.

Biological Control of Kudzu

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy 100% of the vines, their stems, their roots, and their seeds in order to remove Kudzu on its own.

However, with Kudzu biological control is possibly going to be the most effective means with the least amount of effort due to its rapid growth rate and difficulty controlling it by other means. Particularly with large infestations or those near a large source of Kudzu, biological control may be the most desirable. It still of course must be done as part of an integrated management approach that uses physical removal of those unaffected by the biological treatment along with essential ongoing monitoring for multiple years.

Following is a list of biological control methods that have been used in North America in an attempt to help reduce the population densities of Pueraria montana and varieties.

Pathogens both native and non-native to North America have been isolated from Kudzu populations.

  • Pseudomonas syringae pv. phaseolicola a plant pathogen native to North America that causes halo blight of legume plants was tested to control Kudzu. It caused high mortality on young and old growth. However, it performed much less well under dry conditions in the field.
  • Myrothecium verrucaria is another native fungus that showed greater potential success in the field as it did not require such moist conditions. High mortality rates were observed in the field, and they even performed even better in the heat of summer. Since the application requires the use of a surfactant it keeps the risk of the fungus spreading beyond the application area minimal. However, the fungus did show high toxicity to mammals so extreme caution by professionals is required for application in the field.
  • Alternaria and Fusarium fungal species are currently being developed in the USA for potential biological control of Kudzu and other weeds.

Heavy grazing by livestock such as by cows, pigs, horses or goats can also be used to remove Kudzu as part of an integrated management approach. This would only work in groundcover patches though as the animals cannot eat the vines in the trees or on buildings. The animals would need to be fenced in the Kudzu patch for long periods of time to be effective at controlling Kudzu on their own.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

In all cases of removal, the site should be planted after the Kudzu is removed. This cannot be done immediately upon the first removal, however, due to the extreme growth rate of Kudzu. But replanting should be commenced in years 2 – 4, depending on the patch dynamics. Replanting with aggressive native species will help keep the Kudzu at bay. However, ongoing monitoring to remove any new seedlings or sprouts of Kudzu will still need to be intensely carried out. If a single root crown survives it will still grow over and smother any vegetation that is planted.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Kudzu removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Monitoring is important for all invasive species removal, but perhaps Kudzu most of all. The extreme growth and survival rate of stems and roots requires extreme diligence in monitoring. Repeated monitoring for the first couple of years should be carried out on a monthly basis during the growing season to remove any new growth. Then yearly monitoring programs should be put in place for a minimum of 4 years after the initial removal. Monthly monitoring can be reduced to every couple of months in years 2 and on, presuming there are few new individuals being found. An aggressive monitoring program is the only thing that will ensure the success of any biological, physical, or chemical removal or control of Kudzu.

References and Resources

CABI on Pueraria montana https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/45903 ** CABI now charges for its data sheets!

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Kudzu Photo Smothering Trees in Georgia by Scott Ehardt, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Kudzu_on_trees_in_Atlanta,_Georgia.jpg

RxList.com for Medicinal Uses of Kudzu https://www.rxlist.com/kudzu/supplements.htm

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Calycanthus floridus Carolina Allspice Sweetshrub - Native Species of the Week

Calycanthus floridus Sweetbush or Carolina Allspice flowers and leaves
Calycanthus floridus Sweetbush or Carolina Allspice flowers and leaves

Eastern Sweetshrub Carolina Allspice Calycanthus floridus – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

The first time I saw Carolina Allspice or Eastern Sweetshrub blooming in the forest I was thrilled. Its unique burgundy-red flowers intrigued me and I knew it was special. Calycanthus floridus is part of the Calycanthaceae family in the Laurales order of flowering plants. Laurales are neither monocots nor dicots. Instead, Laurales are one of the earliest lineages of angiosperms that evolved, part of the Magnoliids. They are a diverse clade that share some features with monocots, dicots, and even gymnosperms the naked seed plants (conifer trees etc). If you just take a look at its tepals and numerous free carpels, you can tell it is different from most other typical flowering plants. And the added bonus is that the entire plant has an amazing aroma.

Description of Eastern Sweetshrub or Carolina Allspice

Stem & Leaves

Calycanthus floridus is a deciduous shrub of the Calycanthaceae family of the Laurales order of Basal Angiosperms. It is an understorey shrub that grows to 3.5 m tall and up to 3 m wide with multiple erect branches. Its bark is reddish-brown when young then turns a light brown color with age. The bark develops numerous small horizontal lenticels. The bark itself, like the rest of the plant, is aromatic. It frequently propagates vegetatively via root suckers to produce small clonal patches of the same plant. However, it is considered non-invasive.

The leaves are arranged oppositely in pairs along the stems. They are elliptic, oblong or ovate and 5 – 15 cm long by 2 – 6 cm wide. The base of the leaves are acute to truncate. The apex of the leaves may be acute, acuminate or blunt. Margins are smooth without any teeth or lobes. The adaxial (upper) surface is green or dark green. Its abaxial surface is green or glaucous and may be glabrous or pubescent. The leaves are on 3 – 10 mm long petioles (leaf stalks) that are pubescent or glabrous. Its lateral buds are partly hidden by the base of the petioles. The leaves are deciduous and turn a golden-yellow in the fall before they drop off for the winter.

Flowers & Fruits

Calycanthus floridus flower closeup, from Marietta, Georgia, USA
Calycanthus floridus flower closeup, from Marietta, Georgia, USA

The aromatic flowers appear from April to July depending on latitude, aspect etc. They are solitary, reddish-brown, reddish-purple or burgundy in color. It possesses virtually identical-looking tepals rather than separate sepals and petals, similar to the monocots. It has 7 – 20 tepals that are oblong–elliptic to obovate–lanceolate. They are 20 – 40 mm long and 3 – 8 mm wide with an acute apex. The hypanthium (base or cup of the flower) is 20 – 60 mm in diameter by 10 – 30 mm high at maturity and may be cylindrical, ellipsoid, pyriform or globose when mature.

It has 10 – 20 oblong stamens. There are numerous free carpels in the center.

Its fruit is a green leathery and wrinkled urn-shaped indehiscent pseudocarp from an accessory receptacle. It is up to 8 cm long and 5 cm wide by the time it matures and turns brown in the fall. The fruit persists on the shrub all winter. Inside the fruit are numerous 1 seeded brown achenes (seeds) that are each 10 mm long by 5 mm wide.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

The unique flowers and aroma of this plant from the unique Calycanthaceae family make it hard to confuse with others. However, there is another species in the same genus and another aromatic shrub with unique red flowers in the same region that it could be confused with.

  • Calycanthus occidentalis – this is the Western Sweetshrub native to the western USA. However, it is found only sporadically in the east where it was likely introduced. It is a taller shrub that grows to 4 m and its lateral buds are more exposed rather than hidden by the petiole. Its leaf bases are rounded to cordate rather than acute to truncate and its apex is rounded rather than blunt, acute or acuminate.
  • Illicium floridanum – Star Anise is an evergreen shrub of the Schisandraceae family that is native to the southeastern USA. It is also very aromatic and possesses somewhat similar flowers around the same size with similar colored tepals. However, it usually possesses more tepals, from 21 – 33. It also has more stamens anywhere from 25 – 50. It produces characteristic star-shaped fruits rather than urn-shaped ones. And it retains its leaves all winter.
  • Calycanthus hybrids – there are now several hybrids and cultivars grown in gardens throughout the USA but they generally are not found outside of cultivation. They also typically possess larger flowers with more tepals, and their tepals may vary more in color, depending on the cultivar.

Distribution of Eastern Sweetshrub Calycanthus floridus

Carolina Allspice is found only in the eastern USA. iNaturalist reported two locations in southern Ontario, Canada. However, both locations were on roads in residential areas so they were likely planted there rather than occurring naturally.

In the USA, Eastern Sweetshrub is found in Missouri, Illinois, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky, Virginia, Washington DC, West Virginia, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Delaware, New York, Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Habitat and Growing Conditions of Eastern Sweetshrub

Eastern Sweetshrub grows in full sun to full shade. It is common in open, mixed, and deciduous forests where it gets enough light to grow as an understory shrub. In shadier areas it will still grow but is generally taller with less width and less flowering. It also grows at forest edges and openings and on moist hillsides.

Carolina Allspice prefers moderate soil moisture levels and loamy soil. However, it will tolerate wet and clayey soil types and can even tolerate some temporary flooding. It does less well in sandy soils prone to drought but will occasionally grow there. It grows well in mildly acidic soils. Carolina Allspice will tolerate alkaline soils but will not tolerate saline soil conditions.

Growing Calycanthus floridus in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

Calycanthus floridus is a wonderful addition to your eastern garden. It is a beautiful sweet-smelling shrub with gorgeous flowers. Since it is already used as a landscape plant it should be relatively easy for you to find shrubs to plant in your yard rather than having to start them from seed. Since they will grow from seed and also spread vegetatively you could also harvest some from the wild for propagation using ethical wildcrafting principles of course. While the cultivars are lovely so are the wild varieties and they provide added biodiversity values. Or you can always grow both!

Eastern Sweetshrub plants are super easy to grow. Plant your shrubs in any well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. While they do tolerate most soil conditions they prefer a rich loam. If grown in the shade it will grow taller and a bit lankier. If you live in a particularly hot climate they will benefit from a little afternoon shade. In either case prune immediately after flowering if you want it to maintain its compact shape. Or you can let it grow to its conditions, depending on where you plant it.

Maintenance

Pruning will keep its shape if that is what you want. Also, it tends to produce root suckers so if you don’t want it to naturalize just remove the suckers as they grow. They do not grow very rapidly so once every year or two is more than sufficient maintenance.

Mulch annually every early spring with organic compost to feed it to encourage more blossoms.

Otherwise, it is a hearty plant that tolerates cold, heat, some seasonal flooding, moderate drought and even mild fires. It is virtually insect and disease-free. Deer and rabbits seldom graze on its aromatic foliage. It is a very low-maintenance and highly resistant plant that also happens to be beautiful!

Wildlife Values of Carolina Allspice

Carolina Allspice attracts numerous pollinators including bees and lots of butterflies. Beetles are also attracted to the flowers. It is a host plant for native butterflies.

Status of Calycanthus floridus

Carolina Allspice is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In the USA Calycanthus floridus is considered locally Secure S5 only in North Carolina. It is considered Vulnerable S3 just north of North Carolina in West Virginia. Sweetbush is considered Imperiled S2 in Kentucky and Florida. In Virginia it is considered Critically Imperiled S1. It is presumed to be extirpated (locally extinct) in Ohio, though I did not find information as to whether or not it was actually native there. USDA lists it as being introduced in the northern states of Illinois, Maryland, Delaware, Washington DC, Pennsylvania, and New York. In all other states where it is found it is as yet unranked.

Eastern Sweetshrub is not found in either Canada or Mexico.

Traditional or Other Uses of Eastern Sweetshrub or Carolina Allspice

Carolina Allspice as Food

The bark is fragrant and edible and is sometimes used as a substitute for cinnamon, which is where it gets the common name of Carolina Allspice from.

The petals of the flowers are sometimes used in tea. Caution is advised though as the plant contains alkaloids that could lead to heart convulsions in sensitive individuals so use in moderation.

Calycanthus floridus Medicinal Uses

The Cherokee people of the eastern US have used Calycanthus floridus in numerous medicinal applications. Resins from the bark were used on sores and wounds and used in an infusion for hives. It was frequently used as a dermatological aid for children in particular. A cold infusion of the bark was used as an eyewash for those who were losing their eyesight. A strong decoction of the roots makes a powerful emetic to induce vomiting and in milder forms it was used to treat urinary infections. An infusion of the bark was also used for urinary complaints. Occasionally all parts of the plants were used as in incense or perfume.

Herbalists today occasionally use it as an antispasmodic and disinfectant. It makes a powerful heart depressant, however, and should be used with caution.

Eastern Sweetshrub as an Ornamental

Due to its lovely fragrance and beautiful spring flowers, it is often used as an ornamental plant in gardens in borders, native plant gardens, butterfly gardens, etc. It is also occasionally used in cut flower arrangements, dried flowers and potpourri for its lovely fragrance.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Calycanthus floridus

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in several states. See above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for its lovely leaves and flowers and its non-invasive nature.

If you are harvesting Calycanthus floridus from the wild as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 flowers, leaves or plant suckers that you see. If harvesting the bark never ring the shrub as you will kill it. The best practice for harvesting bark from a shrub with plenty of branches is to harvest a single branch from a large, healthy specimen and scrape it entirely.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits, leaves, bark or roots can be placed in a basket, bowl or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day be sure to label the plant parts in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

To dry the leaves or flowers simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. Bark can be scraped off the branch and then dried the same way as flowers or leaves. Roots should be brushed clean of any dirt then chopped into more manageable pieces before drying. Dried roots are notoriously difficult to cut into smaller pieces once dried.

Once dried the leaves, flowers, bark and roots can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species name and the date of harvest. I also usually add the location of harvest for my own reference. The potency of medicines can vary with the location so I like to know where something came from in case I find it particularly potent or weak. Do not grind or crush any plant parts until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties. This renders them ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

North Carolina Extension Gardener on Calycathus floridus https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/calycanthus-floridus/

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Calycanthus floridus https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calycanthus_floridus

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Reynoutria japonica (Japanese Knotweed) is Invasive in North America

Reynoutria japonica, Fallopia japonica, Polygonum cuspidatum Japanese Knotweed or False Bamboo in flower in Langdale, BC, Canada
Reynoutria japonica, Fallopia japonica, Polygonum cuspidatum Japanese Knotweed or False Bamboo in flower in Langdale, BC, Canada

Introduction

Reynoutria japonica, or its synonyms Fallopia japonica and Polygonum cuspidatum are commonly known as Japanese Knotweed. Sometimes it is called False Bamboo due to its superficial appearance to Bamboo though it is of a completely different and unrelated family. This was another one of my early discoveries of invasive species after Scotch Broom. On the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia where I grew up, False Bamboo infestations were particularly common along wet roadsides, riparian areas and wetlands. It is notoriously difficult to control Japanese Knotweed due to the vegetative reproduction that allows them to easily spread to nearby wild areas when left unchecked. I have seen firsthand the biodiversity loss that results when they invade a habitat. There are so many gorgeous native shrubs in North America, there is no need to risk planting this one in your yard. If you do, you may spend many years trying to get rid of it later.

Reynoutria japonica is on the IUCN’s list of the world’s most 100 invasive plants. There are two other plants in the same genus that look extremely similar, grow in the same habitats and ranges and can be equally invasive. For the most part, being able to distinguish the three species is not important since collectively all of the Reynoutria species in North America are invasive. That means that they should all be treated the same in terms of reporting infestations and implementing the control or removal of Japanese Knotweed species. This article discusses Reynoutria japonica but in the description section there are instructions on how to differentiate the species. There is one native species in the eastern part of North America that is sometimes misidentified. Please be sure that you have identified the plant as one of the Japanese Knotweed species before you remove it. It is also described below.

Description of False Bamboo Reynoutria japonica

Leaves & Stems of Reynoutria japonica

Reynoutria or Fallopia japonica is part of the Polygonaceae family in the Caryophyllales order of dicot angiosperms. It is a herbaceous perennial that dies back each fall and grows again every spring from its spreading rhizomes. Japanese Knotweed has a horizontal root system of rhizomes that can grow aggressively and spread 10 – 20 m away from the plant and up to 3 m deep. It then produces additional stems from its spreading rhizomes creating clonal colonies. Its primary mode of reproduction is this vegetative spreading of its rhizomes, making it a very aggressive and rapid invader.

Its purplish-green stems are slightly woody but hollow and jointed, similar to bamboo. It grows to 2 – 3 m tall each year, though it may be shorter with thinner and more solid stems in areas where it gets mowed back periodically. The rapidly growing stems can grow up to 8 cm per day or 1 m in 3 weeks. This allows it to rapidly produce large bamboo-like clumps of stems.

Reynoutria japonica has alternate leaves arranged in a characteristic zigzag pattern. The leaves are ovate to triangular in outline with an acute apex and a truncated base. Leaves possess a long petiole with a pulvinus, a swelling at the base of the joint where the petiole attaches to the stem. False Bamboo leaves are from 7 – 15 cm long and 5 -12 cm wide. They are red when young but unroll into a green leaf with reddish veins that fade with age. Its margins are entire and not wavy or toothed.

Flowers & Fruits of Reynoutria japonica

Japanese Knotweed flowers in July and August producing 6 – 15 cm long erect panicles. Each panicle consists of numerous small white-green flowers near the end of the stems and in the leaf axils. It is a dioecious plant meaning that it produces viable male and female flowers on separate plants and requires both sexes to cross-pollinate to produce viable seeds. Upon superficial examination, however, the flowers will look bisexual because the male and female flowers both have vestigial parts of the opposite sex. Vestigial parts are evolutionary remnants of the sex organs that still grow in the flower but are no longer functional. However, Reynoutria japonica spreads much more often by its aggressive rhizomes and relies far less on the sexual reproduction of viable seeds.

It produces fruits of winged seeds that are triangular, shiny, and very small, suitable for both wind and water dispersal.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

There are multiple plants that are often mistaken for False Bamboo including docks, lilacs, dogwoods and others based on the appearance of the leaves. To make identification much more simple, if you are uncertain at all, wait for flowering. All those other species have different flowers and can easily be differentiated at that time.

In flowering, there are four species that Reynoutria japonica is often confused with. Two are from the same genus, look very similar, grow in the same habitats, are equally as invasive and are often called by the same common name. For the purpose of dealing with them as an invasive species all Reynoutria in North America is invasive and can be treated accordingly. The other two species are related being in the same family, but one is native and one is not. They can all be differentiated as follows:

  • Reynoutria × bohemica is a hybrid species formed from a cross between Reynoutria sachalinensis and Reynoutria japonica. It is found in much the same range in North America. They look very similar with the hybrid having features that are intermediate between its two parent species. The hybrid is often misidentified as Reynoutria japonica but can be distinguished by the short pubescence on the veins on the abaxial (under) surface of young leaves in the spring. R. x bohemica hairs are unicellular, acute and less than 0.1 mm long. Hairs of R. sachalinensis are multicellular, twisted, acute to acuminate, and 0.2 – 0.6 mm long. Hairs on R. japonica are unicellular, blunt, and barely raised, giving the veins a scabrous appearance as opposed to hairy or pubescent.
  • Reynoutria sachalinensis sometimes called Giant Japanese Knotweed is also found in much the same range throughout North America and also looks very similar. They can be differentiated by its very large cordate (heart-shaped) leaves that grow 15 – 40 cm long and 10 – 28 cm wide with undulate (wavy creased) margins. It also grows to 4 m tall as opposed to 2 – 3 m tall.
  • Fallopia baldschuanica the Russian Vine is introduced in North America and so far has limited but scattered distribution here. It appears superficially similar but it is a climbing vine that does not possess the erect stems of Reynoutria spp. Its leaves are typically much more narrowly ovate than the broad ovate of Reynoutria japonica. Also, its flowers that also appear in panicle-like inflorescences are usually pink or pinkish instead of greenish-white.
  • Fallopia cilinodis is native to eastern North America. It is superficially similar but can be easily differentiated by its arrow-shaped sagittate leaves with a deep cordate base and reddish veins. It also has a scandent and sprawling habit as opposed to the erect shrub of the Reynoutria genus.

Native Distribution of Reynoutria japonica

Reynoutria japonica, Polygonatum cuspidatum or Fallopia japonica is originally native to the eastern Asian countries of Japan, Korea, China and Taiwan.

Habitat Types Where Japanese Knotweed is Found

Japanese Knotweed in its native environment prefers rich, moist soil types in wetland and riparian areas. It also grows in moist fields, meadows, hillsides, and forest edges.

It prefers full sun and while it can grow in shade, its growth and reproduction is reduced there. Due to its reduced growth in shade, it is never able to dominate in forest habitats. It has a wide tolerance to soil type, pH, and salinity. The roots can survive in temperatures down to -35 C so it is capable of invading warm and cool temperate zones alike.

Human Uses of Japanese Knotweed or False Bamboo

Japanese Knotweed used to be widely used as an easy-to-grow ornamental plant and still sometimes is used this way. It can be used as a hedge plant due to its rapid growth.

The young stems are eaten in spring and taste similar to rhubarb. To eat them peel the fibrous skin off and soak them in water for half a day before cooking them to make them less bitter.

Beekeepers use the plants for their abundant nectar to make honey.

Medicinal Uses of Reynoutria japonica

Japanese Knotweed is used in traditional Chinese and Japanese medicine to treat various disorders through the actions of resveratrol, a secondary metabolite produced by plants in response to disease or injury. The levels of resveratrol are highest in the roots of Reynoutria japonica and this is usually extracted at the end of the growing season. If you want to harvest root for medicine then harvest it in the fall and remember that when dealing with aggressive invasive plants like this one the rules of ethical wildcrafting do not apply. Harvest to your heart’s content.

Extracts are used to treat a number of ailments including as a diuretic, as a laxative, to treat flus, acute hepatitis and appendicitis and gynecological problems like menstrual irregularities. They are also used to treat injuries, infections, and poisonous snakebites. There is research being done into its possible anti-tumor activity.

Leaves can also be crushed and applied externally as a poultice to treat abscesses, cuts, burns and boils.

Distribution of Reynoutria japonica in North America

The species was first brought to North America in the late 1800s as an ornamental plant for gardens.

In Canada, Reynoutria japonica has been recorded in British Columbia, Manitoba, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland Island (but not Labrador).

In the USA, Japanese Knotweed is found in most of the continental USA as well as Alaska. The states where it has so far been reported include Washington, Oregon, California, Montana, Idaho, Utah, Colorado, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, Michigan, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, Delaware, West Virginia, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine.

In Mexico Reynoutria japonica so far has only been confirmed in Oaxaca. It is possibly also present in Chihuahua, Nuevo Leon, Jalisco and Guanajuato.

Japanese Knotweed has been introduced to every continent except Antarctica.

How Japanese Knotweed Spreads

Japanese Knotweed is primarily spread through long distances by deliberate human introductions as garden ornamentals. It is still sold in garden stores and online despite widespread knowledge of its invasiveness.

Short distance dispersal occurs primarily through vegetative reproduction of its rapidly growing and spreading rhizomes. Short distance dispersal is also common in carelessly discarded “yard waste” piles which frequently are seen to sprout False Bamboo from both stem and rhizome fragments that were not properly solarized before disposal. See Physical Removal of Japanese Knotweed below on how to properly dispose of stems and rhizomes.

Transportation of seeds by wind, water, pets, livestock, humans etc can also be a source of spreading both long and short distances. However, by far most spread is from the aggressive vegetative reproduction of Reynoutria japonica.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

False Bamboo or Japanese Knotweed will easily invade any riparian areas, wetlands, roadsides, ditches and wet or moist forest edges it gains a foothold in. It is common in disturbed sites, empty lots and abandoned gardens. It is very common in waste areas, especially near yard waste piles.

Due to its preference for sun, it is not able to grow well in dense forests, though forest edges are at risk. It also seldom grows in arid and semi-arid areas unless in a riparian habitat.

Impacts of Invasion by False Bamboo

Japanese Knotweed forms dense thickets of bamboo-like vegetation that easily and aggressively out-competes native vegetation. This reduces biodiversity, wildlife values and causes a multitude of other negative impacts in wetland and riparian areas. The water carrying capacity of wetlands and riparian areas is often reduced in areas of False Bamboo infestation. The dense thickets reduce sunlight around them by 90% or more, shading out native plants and out-competing them for sunlight. Its thick mats of decaying vegetation it produces every fall when its abundant herbaceous stems and leaves die back build a thick mulch layer that also prevents other plants from growing with it.

Reduced plant and invertebrate densities are significant in established populations of Japanese Knotweed. Furthermore, native amphibian, bird, reptile and mammal populations are also much reduced in the dense stands of False Bamboo. It is also suspected that the aggressive roots of Japanese Knotweed are allelopathic meaning that they produce compounds that may alter soil chemistry and further negatively impact the growth of other nearby plant species.

Japanese Knotweed is capable of growing through cracks in cement, damaging sidewalks, driveways, roads, and house foundations. It can puncture its way through cement and asphalt 8 cm thick.

Japanese Knotweed roots are aggressive and strong but they are not as dense as those of native plants and they do not hold onto the soil nearly as well. As a result in riparian areas where Japanese Knotweed invades it can make the stream banks unstable and more vulnerable to erosion and flooding. This causes a loss of soil and space for vegetation, making the area further susceptible to future flooding and erosion.

Due to its impact on riparian areas False Bamboo also threatens salmon streams and stream reclamation projects.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

Wild birds are known to eat the seeds and bees use the flowers for their abundant nectar.

Methods to Remove Japanese Knotweed

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Japanese Knotweed. Do not plant it in your yard. Plant native species instead that will require little to no maintenance once established, provide wildlife and biodiversity values and likely will not need to be ‘controlled’.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species.

Once Japanese Knotweed is established it is one of the most notoriously difficult plants to eradicate. There are no methods known today that will remove Japanese Knotweed in the short term. Long term removal of Japanese Knotweed is labor-intensive no matter what the method used. And long term eradication is seldom successful due to the aggressive nature of Japanese Knotweed. Diligence and hard work, integrated management and rigorous ongoing monitoring is the only possible ways to remove Japanese Knotweed.

Physical Control of Japanese Knotweed

An old poster of Reynoutria japonica, Fallopia japonica, Polygonum cuspidatum Japanese Knotweed that I made years ago to raise awareness of its invasiveness
An old poster I made many years ago to help raise awareness of the invasiveness of Japanese Knotweed

Once already established physical control is notoriously difficult. While physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming it still usually causes the least amount of environmental damage. Physical control is particularly difficult with False Bamboo due to the way it spreads vegetatively through its rapidly spreading rhizomes that grow up to 20 m long and 3 m deep. This makes removal particularly challenging and many people still turn to chemical methods. All methods however require multiple treatments over multiple years so physical removal of Japanese Knotweed is the least environmentally damaging option.

Physical methods to remove Japanese Knotweed generally involve the repeated cutting of the above-ground stems throughout the growing season for multiple years in a row. Cut it first in the spring after it reaches 0.5 – 1 m tall and keep going back to cut it again each time it reaches this height. It is a rapid-growing plant that can grow 1 m tall in three weeks if the conditions are right so in spring and early summer this will require multiple visits. As the soil dries and it gets hotter later in the summer it will not grow as rapidly and cutting frequency can be reduced. This will eventually weaken the aggressive root system as the plant is unable to conduct photosynthesis to store energy in its roots for subsequent years’ growth. This is very time-consuming but it will eventually kill it after several years of treatment.

Another method some people have tried with smaller patches is the cut all the above-ground growth and then solarize the entire patch with a heavy black tarp. This works for small infestations where the tarps can extend far beyond the stems. This is because the rhizomes can grow up to 25 m so the plants will tend to regrow just outside the edges of the tarp. This can still be done, however, as you can simply keep returning to the spot to cut any growth attempting to start outside the tarped area, as described above for stem removal.

Where land is to be cleared the best method may be to dig up the entire patch to remove all the rhizomes. Use caution however as any piece of rhizome left can grow and start an entirely new infestation. Proper disposal is also an issue in this case as there will be large volumes of soil needing to be properly disposed of so that it does not create a new infestation. Bringing it to a garbage dump and informing them of its aggressive invasive nature is one option. Phone ahead to make sure they have the means to bury it immediately, and deep enough (more than 5 m) to ensure that it does not grow again.

Disposal of the Shrubs Once Removed

Stems and rhizomes should never simply be disposed of as they will rapidly grow and invade any site they are delivered to. They can be burned on the spot if there are open fires allowed in your area. Burning is usually a good option in spring before fire bans have begun.

In the summer, however, solarization may be the only option. Place stems and rhizomes either under a heavy thick black tarp or into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 10 weeks to be sure that all roots, stems and seeds are no longer viable. Many people recommend shorter solarization periods but due to the differential heats achieved in garbage bags and under tarps I recommend solarizing for as long as possible. Even after solarization you should bring them to the garbage dump and inform them that it is an invasive species so that they can be disposed of appropriately.

Chemical Control of Japanese Knotweed

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

Furthermore, there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Japanese Knotweed. And due to the aggressive nature and deep root system of Japanese Knotweed, multiple applications during the year and in subsequent years are always needed.

However, if it is a very large patch of Reynoutria japonica and physical removal is not a viable option sometimes chemical control of Japanese Knotweed may be necessary. If it is near a riparian area or wetland, however, chemical application cannot be used due to the proximity to water. In those cases, physical removal is the only viable option.

Chemicals registered for use vary from area to area so if you are considering this method please research what is legal to use in your area and take into consideration proximity to water.

Biological Control of Japanese Knotweed False Bamboo

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of the plants in order to be an effective control method. Results this high are rarely seen in the field. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective. Following is a list of biological control methods that have been used to help control Japanese Knotweed.

  • Aphalara itadori the Japanese knotweed psyllid insect feeds only on Japanese knotweed. It has been tested in the United Kingdom with some success.
  • Aphalara itadori leaf fleas that suck up the sap out of the plant have been recently released in Amsterdam. Results are not yet available.
  • Mycosphaerella leaf spot fungus is currently being researched as a mycoherbicide due to its effect on plants in Japan. Research, however, is still preliminary and no results are available for its use outside of Japan.
  • Goats are a great method to control Japanese Knotweed as they will feed on all the above-ground growth. If you have a small patch that you want to get rid of simply build a goat containment area around it and let the goats live there for several years. Eventually, the plants will cease to grow as the goats continually graze on all the above-ground growth. Some people recommend the use of pigs following the goats as the pigs will root out and eat the rhizomes. However, considering that the rhizomes can grow to 3 m below ground it is unlikely that the pigs will be able to deal with all the roots. Again, leaving them there for several years to keep removing any above-ground growth that appears can be a successful method.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting and ongoing monitoring. Integrated management recognizes the fact that when dealing with invasive species one method alone is almost never successful, especially in the long term.

Replanting With Native Species is Crucial

After removing any native species from an area replanting with native species is important to prevent the area from becoming reinfested with that or another invasive species. This is somewhat complicated in the case of Japanese Knotweed removal. This is due to the aggressive nature of the deep and extensive rhizomes which are its primary method of reproduction and spread. If the area was heavily infested and replanted immediately it will seldom be successful as the new growth of Japanese Knotweed from its extensive rhizomes will quickly take over. Replanting of native species should instead be planned for the following year(s) once the patch truly seems under control.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Japanese Knotweed removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. More so for Japanese Knotweed removal than almost any other invasive species. Japanese Knotweed is one of the most aggressive invasive species known and eradication is notoriously challenging.

Yearly monitoring is not adequate due to the rapid and aggressive growth. Instead, monitoring should be done every 3 – 4 weeks during the growing season which would then include physical removal of any sprouts or seedlings found. Then this would need to be repeated yearly for at least 4 – 7 years, depending on how many individuals grow up each year. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place after that for a few more years just to ensure that nothing has returned.

References and Resources

CABI on Fallopia japonica https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/23875 **CABI now charges for this information

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

eflora.org Flora of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Invasive Species Center on Japanese Knotweed https://www.invasivespeciescentre.ca/invasive-species/meet-the-species/invasive-plants/japanese-knotweed/

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Reynoutria japonica https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reynoutria_japonica

Willis, Lyrae (2021).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Wild Strawberry Fragaria vesca, virginiana & chiloensis - Native Plants

Fragaria virginiana Wild Strawberry with the shorter terminal tooth and the bluish-green leaves.
Fragaria virginiana Wild Strawberry with the shorter terminal tooth and the bluish-green leaves.
Fragaria vesca The Woodland Strawberry with the longer terminal teeth and green leaves.
Fragaria vesca The Woodland Strawberry with longer terminal teeth (tooth often longer than here), bright green leaves.
Fragaria chiloensis the Coastal or Beach Strawberry with the leathery dark green leaves and the larger flowers. Photo from Wikipedia.
Fragaria chiloensis the Coastal or Beach Strawberry with dark green leathery leaves & larger flowers. Photo from Wikipedia.

Wild Strawberries Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana & Fragaria chiloensis – Native Plants of the Week

Introduction

Who doesn’t love wild strawberries? The berries are small, but there is so much flavor packed into those little bites! There are actually three main species of wild strawberry native to North America. The two that are very common are often both called Wild Strawberry and Woodland Strawberry making the common names confusing, as they often are. In general, however, Fragaria vesca is called the Woodland Strawberry and Fragaria virginiana is called the Wild Strawberry. Fragaria virginiana is also sometimes called the Virginia Strawberry, even though it is the most widespread of all species in North America. A third wild strawberry that is much less common is Fragaria chiloensis known as Coastal Strawberry or the Beach Strawberry that inhabits the Pacific Coast of North America. Finally Fragaria cascadensis is an exceedingly rare microendemic species of the Cascade Range that was only discovered in 2012. I will discuss the three more well-known ones in this article. They are all very similar in appearance, distribution, and how they were and still are used today.

Description of Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Coastal Strawberry

Stem & Leaves of Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana, Fragaria chiloensis

Fragaria species are part of the Rosaceae family in the Rosales order of dicot flowering plants. All three species are low-growing species with basal leaves that are petiolate (have stalks) and trifoliate having three leaflets.

Fragaria vesca leaves are bright green and the terminal tooth at the end of each leaflet is as long or longer than the ones next to it. The leaves are not glaucus, not leathery, and are not reticulate veined on their abaxial side. Note that in subspecies californica sometimes the terminal tooth is shorter than the adjacent ones making identification to the species level a bit more challenging where ranges overlap. The leaves grow on long hairy stems that are usually green.

Fragaria virginiana leaves are often bluish-green but may be green or bright green. They are not glaucus but are sometimes somewhat leathery. The abaxial side does not have reticulate veins. The terminal tooth on the leaflets is usually shorter than the adjacent teeth. The shorter terminal tooth and its bluish color is the easiest way to differentiate the species from the others. Leaves grow on a sparsely hairy greenish or reddish stem.

Fragaria chiloensis leaves are thick and leathery, dark green or green, not glaucus, and strongly reticulate veined abaxially. Leathery leaves and abaxial reticulate veins are the main identifying feature of this species. The terminal tooth on the leaflets is usually shorter than the adjacent teeth. The abaxial surface is silky hairy while the adaxial (upper) surface is glabrous and shiny. Leaves grow on a hairy reddish stem.

Flowers & Fruits of Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana, Fragaria chiloensis

Fragaria virginiana Wild Strawberry with abundant fruits from my yard in Edgewood, BC, Canada
Fragaria virginiana Wild Strawberry with abundant fruits from my yard in Edgewood, BC, Canada

Fragaria vesca flowers are bisexual (usually) or unisexual and are 1.1 – 2.1 cm across. They are usually in clusters of 2-5 flowers. They have 5 white petals that are obovate to nearly orbiculate and their margins may or may not be overlapping. There are about 20 yellow stamens. The fruit is a conical-shaped pseudocarp and its achenes (seeds) are deeply embedded in the surface of the fruit in shallow pits. The achenes are 1 – 1.5 mm long and are yellowish-green to reddish-brown. The bractlets and sepals may be spreading, reflexed or clasping when in fruit.

Fragaria virginiana flowers are bisexual or may at times be unisexual and dioecious or gynodioecious. The flowers are 0.95 – 2.7 cm across and they have 5 white petals that are obovate or broadly obovate. The petals may or may not overlap each other. There are about 20 yellow stamens. The fruit is a globular (roundish) pseudocarp and its achenes are usually deeply embedded but rarely in shallow pits. Achenes are yellowish-green to reddish-brown and are 1.2 – 1.8 mm long each. The sepals are clasping in fruit as seen in the above picture.

Fragaria chiloensis flowers are bisexual, pistillate or staminate and are 1.5 – 2.8 cm across. They are in clusters of 5 – 15 flowers. Each flower usually has 5 petals but occasionally there are 6. Petals are obovate or widely depressed and obovate, margins may or may not overlap. There are 20 – 25 yellow stamens. The fruit is an ovate hairy pseudocarp and the achenes are either in shallow pits or only partially embedded. Achenes are 1.4 – 2 mm long and are reddish-brown to dark brown. Both bractlets and sepals are clasping in fruit.

While our native Fragaria species do produce viable seeds it is believed that most our Fragaria species reproduce more asexually through their stolons. Sometimes they sprout new crowns from their rhizomes as well, but stolons are the primary source of reproduction.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

While there are several other related genera in the Rosaceae or Rose family with a very superficial appearance to Fragaria, most can easily be ruled out if they do not have trifoliate leaves. Another factor to easily rule them out is that some of them have yellow flowers instead of white whereas Fragaria flowers are always white. The most common misidentification in North America is between the 3 common Fragaria species described above. Below are a few other species that can be misidentified when no fruit or flower is present, or where the fruit is present and looks superficially similar to Fragaria species.

  • Fragaria cascadensis – this is a rare microendemic species confined to the Cascade Mountains throughout Oregon and southern Washington. In its narrow range, it can be differentiated from the other strawberries found there by the hairs found on its upper and lower leaves. None of the other species in North America have hair on the adaxial (upper) surface. This species was only first described in 2012 as a unique species.
  • Rubus lasiococcus – this is a low-growing Rubus only found in the Cascade range region of southernmost British Columbia, Washington and Oregon. It can usually be differentiated by the fact that the lower two of its trifoliate leaflets are mostly two-lobed, making the whole leaf appear 5-lobed. It is occasionally not lobed, however, in which case the numerous white stamens will help differentiate it from the Fragaria genus.
  • Potentilla indica – the false strawberry is an introduced species found all over much of North America. It has trifoliate leaves and grows to a similar size as Fragaria. However, when in flower it is easy to differentiate by its yellow flowers instead of white as in all Fragaria species. When in fruit it is also fairly easy to differentiate. Even though the fruits look very much like a strawberry they do not hang on long stems. Instead they are usually held upright, and they are spherical instead of conical or globular.

Distribution of Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana & Fragaria chiloensis

The Woodland Strawberry Fragaria vesca is found throughout much of the northern hemisphere where it is native and widespread. The Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana is a North American species that grows across most of the US and Canada. The Coastal or Beach Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis is native to the Pacific coasts of North & South America as well as Hawaii.

Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Coastal or Beach Strawberry in Canada

The Woodland Strawberry Fragaria vesca is found in British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland Island, and the Northwest Territories. It is absent from Nunavut, Yukon Territories, and Labrador. Its status in Prince Edward Island is unclear.

The Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana is found in all provinces and all northern Territories.

The Coastal Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis is only found in British Columbia on the Pacific Coast.

Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Coastal or Beach Strawberry in the USA

The Woodland Strawberry Fragaria vesca is found Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Arizona, Texas, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Wisconsin, Illinois, Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine. It is not native to but has been introduced in Hawaii.

The Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana is found in every state in the continental USA including Alaska.

The Coastal Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis is native to Hawaii and introduced into Alaska. According to USDA it is both native and introduced in Washington, Oregon, and California, though I could not find a reason why this is so since the Pacific coast of North America is part of its natural range.

Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Coastal or Beach Strawberry in Mexico

The Woodland Strawberry Fragaria vesca is found mostly in mountainous terrain in Mexico. It is found in Baja California, Baja California Sur, Sonora, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Jalisco, Durango, Chihuahua, Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, Mexico State, Morelos, Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Veracruz, Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, and Chiapas.

Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana has only been confirmed in two states Chihuahua and Coahuila. In both states it was found in mountainous terrain.

The Coastal Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis does not appear to be found on the Pacific coast of Mexico. It has a disjunct distribution on the Pacific coast of Canada and the USA. It is then absent from the Pacific coasts of Mexico and Central America. Then it is found again on the Pacific coast of South America where it was likely brought by birds.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Wild, Woodland and Coastal Strawberry

Fragaria vesca is a widespread species often found along roadsides, trails, on hills, in meadows, young or open forests, forest edges, and clearings. It is frequently found in coniferous forests but also grows in mixed forests. It prefers shade or partial shade. Often it is found in areas too shady to produce fruit because it primarily spreads by runners. In the northern parts of its range it tolerates more sun. However, in the southern end of its range it is only found in shady habitats. This is why in Mexico it is generally found only in mountainous terrain. It prefers wet and moist soil types and tolerates some acidity.

Fragaria virginiana is also a widespread species but is more common in mixed or deciduous forests than coniferous forest areas. It is commonly found in open forests, forest edges, hillsides, meadows, clearings and along roadsides. Tolerating more sun than Fragaria vesca, it is found in both full sun and part shade throughout its range but seldom in full shade. It prefers dry to moderately moist soil types and tolerates some moderate acidity.

Fragaria chiloensis is restricted to coastal habitats close to the ocean. It prefers sandy soil types in full sun and is usually found on or close to beaches in its range.

Growing Wild Strawberries in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

Wild Strawberries and Woodland Strawberries are both widespread species and incredibly easy to grow in your yard. You can start them by seed, or pick off a couple of runners from the wild, following Ethical Wildcrafting guidelines of course. Or simply allow the ones already there to grow, as I did. Starting strawberries from seeds can be challenging, though rewarding when it does work. However, wild strawberries are so abundant in North America I strongly suggest you wildcraft some runners and start them that way. The plants will take and grow so much faster.

They can be planted in most soil types. The Fragaria virginiana photo above in the Flowers & Fruits section grew on its own in sandy and gravel soil with very little organic matter. All I did was give it a little water in the summer and it produced that enormous crop of berries. I started watering all the Fragaria I had in my yard (I had both species) and I let them spread as a ground cover instead of planting a lawn. If you have poor soil like I did and want them to produce more fruits simply amend it with a little organic compost each spring. It will help feed them and retain water at the same time.

Winter and Other Maintenance

Other than an occasional top-dressing of compost and a bit of water during extended summer droughts, wild strawberries of any kind require no maintenance. Wild strawberries are also tolerant of cold so they require no winter maintenance. They will return each spring. If you are concerned and live in a particularly cold climate you could provide the plants with some winter mulch.

Wildlife Values of Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Beach Strawberry

Wild animals and birds of all kinds are known to regularly feed on wild strawberries anytime the fruit is in season. It is particularly popular with songbirds and grouse. Several native ungulates including elk, mule deer, white-tailed deer, black-tailed deer, and mountain goats also routinely feed on the foliage. Grizzly bears, black bears, and raccoons also feed on the Woodland and Wild Strawberry, particularly the berries but it is believed that they also eat the leaves.

The flowers are open-pollinated by any animal that visits. Bees and butterflies are both known to visit the flowers. Wild strawberries are also the larval host of some native butterflies and moths including the Grizzled Skipper Pyrgus centaureae and the Gray Hairstreak Strymon melinus.

Status of Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana & Fragaria chiloensis

The Woodland Strawberry Fragaria vesca

Fragaria vesca the Woodland Strawberry is considered Globally Secure, G5.

In Canada, Fragaria vesca is Locally Secure S5 in British Columbia and Ontario. It is Apparently Secure S4 in Saskatchewan, Manitoba, and New Brunswick. In Nova Scotia it is Vulnerable S3. It is unranked in all other territories and provinces where it is found.

In the USA, Wild Strawberry is considered Vulnerable S3 in Wyoming. It is as yet unranked in all other states where it is found.

In Mexico no information on its status could be found.

The Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana

The Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana is considered Globally Secure G5.

In Canada, Fragaria vesca is Locally Secure S5 in British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland Island, and the Yukon Territories. It is Vulnerable S3 in Labrador. In Northwest Territories, Nunavut, and Quebec it is currently unranked.

In the USA, Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana is considered Locally Secure S5 in Montana, Wyoming, Iowa, Kentucky, Virginia, West Virginia, North Carolina, Delaware, and New York. It is Critically Imperiled S1 in Louisiana. In all other states where it is found it is still unranked.

In Mexico no information on its status could be found.

The Coastal or Beach Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis

The Coastal or Beach Strawberry Fragaria chiloensis is considered Globally Secure G5.

In Canada ,Fragaria chiloensis is Locally Secure S5 in British Columbia. It is found nowhere else in Canada.

In the USA, Beach Strawberry is unranked in Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and California. It is not found anywhere else in the USA.

In Mexico there is no Coastal Strawberry found.

Traditional or Other Uses of Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, Coastal Strawberry

Wild Strawberry as Food

Wild Strawberry, Woodland Strawberry, and Coastal or Beach Strawberry were widely used as food by all indigenous peoples throughout their ranges. They were eaten fresh, made into preserves, cooked with other foods, dried individually or made into cakes for winter use. Many native people of North America were documented as using any or all three species for food. There were no doubt more than I even found in my research but the ones documented I found include the Abnake, Alaska, Algonquin, Apache, Bella Coola, Blackfoot, Cahuilla, Carrier, Clallam, Chehalis, Cherokee, Cheyenne, Chinook, Chippewa, Cochiti, Coeur d’Alene, Costanoan, Cowlitz, Cree, Dakota, Diegueno, Gosiute, Haisla, Hanaksiala, Hesquiat, Hoh, Iroquois, Isleta, Karok, Kitasoo, Klallam, Klamath, Lakota, Makah, Mendocino, Menominee, Meskwaki, Montana, Navajo, Nespelem, Nisqually, Nitinat, Ojibwa, Okanagan-Colville, Omaha, Oweekeno, Paiute, Pawnee, Ponca, Puyallup, Pomo, Potawatomi, Quileute, Salish, Sanpoil, Shuswap, Skagit, Skokomish, Spokane, Squaxin, Swinomish, Thompson, Tolowa, Winnebago and Yurok.

It is believed the Algonquin used to cultivate the berries to get larger harvests.

The Coast Salish, Cowlitz, Blackfoot and the Winnebago made tea from the dried leaves. The Thompson used the flowers and stems as a spice to flavor edible roots, and also put it in their armpits as a type of deodorant.

Fragaria virginiana and Fragaria chiloensis were the two strawberries that were hybridized to create all modern commercial strawberries Fragaria x ananassa that are produced and eaten today. Wild types are still sometimes eaten by native and non-native people alike, particularly when there is an abundance.

Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana, Fragaria chiloensis Medicinal Uses

The Quileute of Washington state used a poultice of chewed leaves as a dressing for burns. The Okanagan-Colville used the dried leaves in a poultice as a dermatological aid for sores, as a disinfectant, and it was also applied to babies’ gums for teething.

The Blackfoot, Thompson, Diegueno, and Skokomish made an infusion used to treat diarrhea, especially for children and babies with the Thompson. The Carrier made a decoction of the stems for bleeding of the stomach. The Potawatomi and the Ojibwa used an infusion for stomach problems, the Ojibwa particularly used it for babies with stomach problems. The Chippewa used it as a pediatric aid for “cholera infantum”.

The Iroquois used the plant for numerous medical conditions including abortifacient, diarrhea, blood tonic, eyewash, colic in babies, gonorrhea, heart problems, stroke, canker sores, and teething babies. The Navajo used the whole plant as a ‘life medicine’ and the Iroquois used it as a “spring medicine”.

The Cherokee people used wild strawberries for several medicinal uses including diarrhea, visceral obstructions, jaundice, kidney problems, scurvy, depression, as a sedative, for bladder infections, and as a toothache remedy. The Malachite and Micmac used it is an abortifacient.

Fragaria Ceremonial and Other Uses

The Pomo and Kashaya used the strawberries as part of a ceremonial dance. The Iroquois used it in ceremonies as a symbol of the Creator’s beneficence.

The stolons (runners) were frequently used as a rope for tying and binding things together.

Wild Strawberry as an Ornamental

Sometimes Wild Strawberry plants are used as garden ornamentals. However, most people grow the hybrid type in their gardens for their more abundant fruits. More wild strawberries should be used as ornamentals in gardens across North America. They make a great ground cover, provide biodiversity and wildlife values, and occasionally produce a delicious crop of tiny berries.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana, Fragaria chiloensis

Check the status in your state before harvesting since it is imperiled or vulnerable in some states and provinces. See above section on Status. Alternatively, grow it in your garden for both its lovely ground cover, flowers, and delicious fruits.

If you are harvesting Fragaria vesca, Fragaria virginiana, or Fragaria chiloensis from the wild as always use the 1 in 20 rule of Ethical Wildcrafting. Pick one in every 20 fruit or leaves that you see. It is important not to pick all of the fruits so that you leave some behind for the numerous native animals and birds that rely on them as an important summer food source.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Picked fruits or leaves can be placed in a basket, bowl, or paper bag and brought home for processing. If you are harvesting multiple products on the same day be sure to label the roots in a paper bag so that you do not confuse different plants.

Wild strawberries are usually eaten fresh upon picking. If using the leaves medicinally they can be dried for later use.

To dry the leaves simply place them on a rack or screen in a single layer and allow them to dry. If you are wanting to dry the fruits be sure there is enough air circulation around your drying racks to prevent rotting. Otherwise, they could also be dried more quickly in the sun the way indigenous people used to do it, or in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting.

Once dried, the leaves and fruits can be stored in a jar for later use. Label your jar with the species name and the date of harvest, I also usually add the location of harvest for my own reference. Do not grind or crush the leaves or fruits until you are ready to use them to keep them as fresh as possible and preserve their medicinal properties. When you pre-grind, even if stored in glass jars, this increases the oxidation rate and rapidly degrades the medicinal properties so that they are rendered ineffective in a shorter amount of time than if left as whole as possible.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Fire Effects Information System on Fragaria vesca https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/forb/fraves/all.html

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center Database https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=frvi

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Fragaria cascadensis https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fragaria_cascadensis

Wikipedia picture of Fragaria chiloensis By Will Elder / National Park Service – https://www.nps.gov/prsf/learn/nature/beach-strawberry.htm, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10543349

Willis, Lyrae (2021).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

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Silybum marianum Milk Thistle - Invasive Species of North America

Silybum marianum Milk Thistle Blessed Milk Thistle Variegated Thistle flower and leaves
Silybum marianum Milk Thistle Blessed Milk Thistle Variegated Thistle flower and leaves

Introduction

Milk Thistle or Silybum marianum is an interesting plant. It has gorgeous variegated leaves and will grow in just about any disturbed environment as long as it has sufficient sunlight. It is also a widely used medicinal herb and many people today are still planting it in their garden for this reason. Once planted however, they quickly realize that now they have to remove the Milk Thistle from their yard before it takes over.

About 20 years ago I once planted it in my garden in West Sechelt, British Columbia, Canada for its medicinal properties. I was thrilled by how productive my crop was the first year. However, the second year I was horrified at the number of seedlings popping up where I had not planted them. I had not heard yet of its invasiveness at that time, clearly, or I would never have planted it. So I spent the following two years trying to remove every Milk Thistle seedling I could find. I moved away after that and have often wondered if I managed to stop it from becoming invasive there, or did I start an infestation that got out of control? It literally haunts me a little still to this day.

Until something becomes known as invasive, how are we supposed to know? My suggestion is to do your research before you plant anything new. This is particularly true of medicinal herbs which are often opportunistic species that may invade given the chance. With all of the information available today at our fingertips, it is not necessary to take chances anymore. If it is invasive and you want some raw herb, purchase it online from a reputable source instead.

Description of Silybum marianum

Leaves & Stems

Silybum marianum is part of the Asteraceae (Sunflower) family in the Asterales order of flowering dicot plants. Its stems are either glabrous or slightly tomentose (rough-hairy), lightly grooved, not winged, and grow from 0.3 – 2 m in height. It grows from a basal rosette of leaves up to 1.6 m wide in diameter. Stems are usually branched but not repeatedly and are usually armed with spines. The oldest stems are often hollow.

Its leaves appear strongly variegated in shiny green with milk-white veins. The basal leaves are oblong to lanceolate, coarsely lobed and armed with marginal spines. They are 15 – 65 cm long and are attached to their stems on winged petioles. As the leaves approach the flowers they become smaller and more clasping with an auriculate (ear-shaped) base.

Flowers & Fruits

Silybum marianum Milk Thistle Blessed Milk Thistle Variegated Thistle flower head with spiny phyllaries (bracts).
Silybum marianum Milk Thistle Blessed Milk Thistle Variegated Thistle flower head with spiny phyllaries (bracts). Photo from Wikipedia see credits below.

Silybum marianum flowers anywhere from February to November, depending on the location. The phyllaries’ (floral bracts) appendages are ovate, spreading, and 1 – 4 cm long including their long spiny yellowish tip. The flower heads are from 4 – 12 cm long and 3 – 6 cm wide; they contain disk florets only. The disk florets are 26 – 35 mm long in magenta or purple. The tubes are 13 – 25 mm long, throats are campanulate (bell shaped) and 2 – 3 mm long, and they have 5 – 9 mm long lobes.

Note: disk florets and phyllaries are unique features of Asteraceae family flowers. If you want to learn more about Asteraceae flowers and their unique physical characteristics I suggest you check out the diagrams here https://cronodon.com/BioTech/asteraceae.html . You can also read the Wiki page on Asteraceae, it is very informative. However, the above link has much better diagrams showing the different physical features of the composite flowers.

The fruit is a brown cypsela (a typical angular seed of the sunflower family) with black spots. Although, it is often incorrectly referred to as an achene. Both are simple, dry, indehiscent fruits. However, achenes come from a superior ovary whereas a cypsela comes from an inferior ovary. The distinction is subtle. The cypsela is accompanied by a pappus of hairs or scales that remain attached to the apex that aid in wind dispersal. The pappus is a fluffy white attachment 1.5 – 2 cm long, that is surrounded basally by a yellow ring.

Toxicity

Milk Thistle in some instances can be toxic to ruminant livestock due to nitrogen accumulation. It is not, however, toxic to human beings and is a common and highly popular medicinal herb.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

There are several native and nonnative thistles in North America that Milk Thistle is frequently confused with. In almost all cases they can easily be distinguished by the unique milky variegation on the leaves of the milk thistle. Sometimes, however, this variegation is more subtle which can lead to occasional misidentification. Similar looking species can be distinguished as follows:

  • Cynara cardunculus the Globe Artichoke – popular with gardeners, it has tall stems that are not winged and large, spiny flower heads like Milk Thistle. However, it can be differentiated by its grey-green leaves that are not spiny.
  • Cirsium vulgare the Spear Thistle – this has winged stems and its leaves are greenish and not variegated. It has moderate-sized flowers with small spines. 
  • Cirsium arvense the Creeping Thistle – has wingless stems but its greenish colored leaves are not variegated and it has smaller and much more slender flower heads.
  • Carduus nutans the Musk Thistle – has winged stems but its greenish leaves are not variegated. Its flower heads have small spines and they droop with age.
  • Onopordum spp – multiple species in North America that look somewhat similar but all have winged stems and their leaves are either bluish-grey or whitish rather than variegated. They also have smaller flower heads and smaller spines.

Native Distribution of Silybum marianum

Silybum marianum is native to throughout the Mediterranean countries as well as all of Asia from India north to Siberia.

Habitat Types Where Milk Thistle is Found

Milk Thistle grows in open fields, roadsides, agricultural areas, waste areas, any disturbed habitat. It can be found from sea level to 1300 m above sea level.

Silybum marianum requires habitats with full sun and prefers areas that are regularly disturbed. It tolerates drought, full sun, and nitrified soils. While it prefers nutrient-rich soil it can tolerate a wide range of soil types, quality, and moisture levels. It does not seem to prefer rocky soils.

Human Uses of Milk Thistle Silybum marianum

Milk Thistle as Food

Milk thistle has a long history of use in Europe as a food. Leaves with their spines removed were used in salads or cooked and eaten like cabbage. Stalks, roots and flowers were often cooked on their own or added to stews as a vegetable. Seeds were sometimes used as a coffee substitute. While humans use it for a food source it is considered somewhat toxic for livestock to feed on.

Milk Thistle as Medicine

Silybum marianum has been used as a herbal medicine for over 2000 years. It was widely used as a milk stimulant, for liver, kidney and spleen problems, jaundice, gallstones, menstrual problems, and neurological problems.

Currently, Milk Thistle is widely used as a herbal remedy for hepatitis (especially Hepatitis C), cirrhosis, jaundice, diabetes, indigestion, and as part of a gentle cleanse. It is also occasionally used to help treat poisonings from toxic mushrooms, industrial solvents, excess acetaminophen or other over-the-counter or prescription drugs.

Studies have been being done that show it can help as a neuroprotective to aid in treating age-related decline in brain function. Studies are also being done to see if it can help aid and boost the effectiveness of cancer treatments.

The active ingredients in Milk Thistle cypselae are a group of phytochemicals called silymarin. Occasionally it can cause allergic reactions, usually in those with allergies to other plants in the sunflower family. It also may lower blood sugar levels in people with type 2 diabetes so they should be cautious when using it.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Silybum marianum and Making of Medicines

When it comes to truly invasive species with no or little wildlife values there is no need to “ethically” wildcraft. Milk Thistle is a wonderful medicinal herb. If you see it growing in your area and want to harvest pick to your heart’s content. Choose an area free of major sources of pollutants though if you intend to ingest it medicinally.

The achenes are ripe when there is a lot of fluffy white pappus visible. They readily split open at this stage upon picking so keep your bag or basket under the flower head. This will prevent any seeds from spilling on the ground as you harvest. Pick all of the mature seed heads that you find whether you need them all or not. Allow them to continue drying in the bag or basket for a few more weeks until they easily split apart. Process any seeds you want to use. Any excess seeds should be ground before you burn or otherwise dispose of them. Do not throw them directly in your compost, garbage, or anywhere else before grinding them.

Making Milk Thistle Tinctures

To use Silybum marianum as medicine you must remove the fluffy pappus from the achene (seed). Dry the seed thoroughly on a rack or in a paper bag. Then grind it and make it into a tincture using alcohol. You can use vodka or white rum (or other alcohol, they just impart more flavor to the tincture). If you can get your hands on 95% ethyl alcohol this will make the best tincture. Everclear is a common brand but it is not legal for sale in some states and provinces.

To make a tincture put the ground seeds in a jar and cover them with your alcohol of choice. Be sure to add enough alcohol to thoroughly cover the seeds and a little extra to account for any evaporation. When done your tincture should be bright yellow from the resins that contain the active ingredient silymarin. Note that the active ingredient silymarin is almost completely insoluble in water so teas and other water-based extracts will not be effective.

Distribution of Silybum marianum in North America

The species was first brought to North America by the early colonists as a medicinal herb and as a food source. It was intentionally planted and spread with the colonists.

In Canada, Silybum marianum has been recorded in British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia. In Saskatchewan it is reported as ephemeral. Interestingly, it is not reported as present in Manitoba yet the Manitoba government’s department of agriculture has a page on their site telling you how to grow it. They even seem to try to persuade farmers to grow it by spouting the economics and marketing of it. Species known to be invasive in any part of any country should ideally not be encouraged to be grown in other parts of that same country.

In the USA, Milk Thistle is found in Washington, Oregon, California, Nevada, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee, Virginia, Washington DC, West Virginia, Maryland, Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire. Since there is still so much habitat suitable for Silybum marianum it is expected that it will be much more widespread in the USA in the future unless adequate control of Milk Thistle is enforced.

In Mexico Silybum marianum has been reported in Baja California, Sonora, Nuevo Leon, Hidalgo, Veracruz, Mexico State, Mexico City, and Puebla. It is likely more widespread than currently reported and will continue to spread into more states throughout Mexico.

Milk Thistle has been introduced on every continent except for Antarctica. It is considered an invasive weed in North America, Australia, New Zealand, and parts of South America.

How Blessed Milk Thistle Spreads

Milk Thistle is primarily spread through long-distance by deliberate human introductions by planting them in their garden. Seeds are still widely sold on the internet and often in garden stores as well due to their popularity as a medicinal herb.

One Silybum marianum plant can produce over 6000 seeds that remain viable in the soil seed bank for 9 years. Furthermore, they can germinate through an extraordinary range of temperatures between 0 – 30 C. Seeds can be transported short-distances by wind, clothes, shoes, equipment, pets, etc.

Habitats at Risk of Invasion in North America

Any open, disturbed habitat is at risk of invasion in North America as long as it has adequate sunlight. This makes agricultural areas, roadsides, new development, riparian areas, clearings, urban fallow, and waste areas particularly at risk. This means that anywhere humans develop the area is at risk of invasion. And since most disturbed habitats have abundant sunlight that means that light requirement is not an issue. Since it is not only drought tolerant but will also germinate at temperatures around 0 C it is expected that Silybum marianum will continue to spread throughout North America. This is a particular concern in the central areas of Canada, the USA, and Mexico where it currently is not found or at least not yet in any abundance.

Impacts of Invasion by Silybum marianum

Silybum marianum frequently invades pastures and agricultural lands where it can rapidly take over and exclude forage grasses and herbs, native plants, and agricultural plants. Due to its height and diameter, a single plant can displace a significant amount of forage plants for livestock.

Milk Thistle is known to accumulate potassium nitrate which can make it toxic to ruminant livestock because the bacteria in their stomachs convert it to nitrate ions. However, it is not considered toxic to humans.

Due to their preference for disturbed habitats they do not pose a very serious threat to undisturbed native environments. However, they will rapidly spread in fallow fields and have occasionally invaded nearby wild grasslands and meadows with proximity to agricultural areas.

Potential Benefits of Invasion

The flowers do produce nectar that is used by both native and agricultural bees. However, the plants that it displaces likely would have also provided the same benefit for the bees.

Methods to Remove Milk Thistle

As always prevention is the preferred method of control. It, like most invasive species, is still widely sold online and in most local garden stores. Do not buy or transport any Milk Thistle. Do not plant it in your yard like I mistakenly did all those years ago.

If you see them being sold online or in your local garden stores please inform them of their invasive status and ask them to do their part and cease selling them. Ask them to instead sell more native species as ecologically friendly garden alternatives to invasive species. And if you are wanting to grow it solely for the medicine, then buy the medicine or the raw seeds online from a reputable source. Just do not plant those seeds in your yard.

Physical Control of Milk Thistle

Once already established, however, physical control is always the most effective means. Physical control is labor-intensive and time-consuming but it usually causes the least amount of environmental damage.

Physical methods for the removal of Milk Thistle involve the cutting down of the plants. Because it is an annual or biennial species removal of the rootstock is not absolutely necessary. The best time to remove Milk Thistle is in the mid-late spring before the flowers have opened or matured. Immature seeds will continue to mature on cut plants, particularly those that remain attached to the stem. So it is important they be cut down before the flowers mature so they cannot go to seed.

Wear gloves to protect your hands from the spines. If the plant already has a stem use hand cutters, machetes, loppers, etc to cut down the above-ground growth. Be sure to then use a shovel to cut it further just below the surface of the soil so that it is not able to re-grow that year. Alternatively, you can then use a weed puller to remove the root. If it is early in the year and you are only dealing with the basal rosette of leaves then weed pullers can be used to remove the root. A shovel can also be used on a rosette to cut the growth off below the soil surface.

Frequent cultivation in agricultural areas is a good method to control Milk Thistle infestations. Cultivation must occur before the plants go to seed. This should be followed with planting of suitable annual forage plants for your livestock. Keep cultivating yearly if necessary until the infestation is gone. Then yearly monitoring can be done to remove any seedlings that may still try to sprout.

Physical Removal Methods of Milk Thistle That Are Not Recommend

Mechanical mowers are never recommended. They help spread the seeds around and they will not actually kill the plant since they do not remove all the green photosynthetic leaves above ground. The remaining plant will simply re-grow and could still set seed that same year.

Controlled fires are not an adequate method to remove Milk Thistle. Milk Thistle seeds are tolerant of low-temperature fires. Furthermore, the release of nutrients the fire creates as well as the disturbance it creates makes a suitable environment for the seedlings to sprout. Fires may actually encourage their spread.

Disposal of Milk Thistle Removed

If you have plants that have any seeds, whether mature or not, they must be solarized. To solarize put the plants under a thick black tarp, or into thick black garbage bags and leave them in the full sun for a good 8 weeks to ensure that all seeds are no longer viable. Many sources recommend shorter time periods for solarization. However, temperature differences throughout the bag, as well as variable sun conditions during the process, can lead to differential survival of some seeds during solarization. Better safe than sorry, so please solarize as long as possible.

Replanting may be necessary, and ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. See the Integrated Management section below for more information.

Chemical Control of Milk Thistle

Chemical applications are almost never an ideal method of control for any invasive species. That is because chemical alteration of the environment often makes the environment more suitable for invasive species than native species. Furthermore, it is often difficult to keep the chemical control method contained so that it does not directly affect any native species that are there during the application process itself. As a result, plots where chemical control is used usually show a decrease in species richness. On the other hand, in plots where only physical control is used species riches significantly increases.

Chemical control is generally not recommended. However, since Silybum marianum is more often a weed of roadsides and agricultural areas chemical control is sometimes used. Since there are no chemical control methods that effectively target only Milk Thistle then handheld spray applications are recommended rather than non-selective machine spraying. Herbicide availability and legality vary from area to area so if you have a large infestation and want to use this method then please research herbicides used in your area. If at all possible try physical control methods first as Milk Thistle removal by physical means is relatively easy for an invasive species.

Biological Control of Milk Thistle

Biological control involves the use of a predator, herbivore, disease, or some other agent to control an invasive species once it is established in the environment. The problem with biological control is that the agent used must be entirely specific to only the target organism before releasing it into the environment. This is often difficult to determine since the agent of control is also not native to the environment and could behave differently when released there. Take the example of the mongoose and the rat. The mongoose was released in Hawaii in the late 1800s to help control the rat. To this day there are still rats in Hawaii but the mongoose has helped to decimate many native bird populations.

Biological control methods are extremely risky and should only be carried out by professionals after years of rigorous study. The use of biological control methods can never be used alone. They must be part of an integrated pest management approach. This is because the control agent would need to effectively destroy over 99% of seeds to actually control the Milk Thistle on their own. However, using biological control in conjunction with physical control and ongoing monitoring can be very effective when dealing with large infestations over a wider geographical area. These are the biological control methods that have been used in North America in an attempt to help remove Milk Thistle.

Biological Control Organisms Used in North America

  • Rhinocyllus conicus is a seed head weevil is reported to do significant damage and is a viable option to control Milk Thistle. It has been released in the USA with some success. However, it also attacks the native thistles so this method is not recommended.
  • Alternaria species, a plant pathogen, is currently being studied for possible use in the USA, but to my knowledge has not yet been released.
  • Domestic Goats will feed on Silybum marianum without any ill effects. The goats are non-selective, however, and will eat almost anything in their path. Goats should be kept in a fence to prevent them from grazing outside of the infestation area. They should be allowed to graze from spring till fall to allow them to eat any new regrowth. They will need to be returned the following spring to graze continuously the next year to deal with any seedlings that emerge.
  • In agricultural areas maintaining vigorous, dense pasture land is the best method to control Milk Thistle. The types of agricultural plants used in the pastures will of course depend on your location so research what is best in your area.

Integrated Pest Management & Ongoing Monitoring

Integrated management is always the best approach. In its simplest and least impactful form this involves physical removal methods, possibly biological control methods, replanting, and ongoing monitoring. No one method alone will ever control an invasive species, or they would not have become invasive in the first place.

Replanting is Often Crucial

In many cases, particularly in agricultural fields where there has been a lot of Milk Thistle removal the area may need to be replanted. Since they are agricultural the type of planting will depend on the agricultural use as well as the location. Where the infestations occur on roadsides there are usually other weeds that will quickly grow up to take their place. In the occasional case where the area is a natural one, or one being converted to a natural area, then replanting should be done with native species. In that case, a replanting program should already be planned and ready to implement immediately upon the removal of Milk Thistle. Use seeds from the local area if possible to replant native areas. If that is not possible then purchase native plants and native seeds from a reputable nursery specializing in native plants in your area.

Ongoing Monitoring is Essential

In all cases of invasive Milk Thistle removal, ongoing monitoring is absolutely essential. Yearly monitoring programs should be put in place to ensure that any surviving individuals are removed so that the population is not able to recover. This is required whether the area is replanted or not. Milk Thistle can be aggressive and may out-compete planted vegetation if yearly monitoring is not put in place to remove young plants before they have a chance to become established.

Simply revisit the site every spring or so over the following years and remove any new rosettes or full plants that emerge before they are given a chance to go to seed. Seeds remain viable for 9 years in the soil so ongoing visits would be required for at least that long.

References and Resources

CABI Fact Sheet on Silybum marianum https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/50304 **CABI now charges for access!

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Manitoba Department of Agriculture on Milk Thistle https://www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/crops/crop-management/milk-thistle.html

Milk Thistle Flower Photo from Wikipedia By fir0002flagstaffotos [at] gmail.com Canon 20D + Sigma 150mm f/2.8 – Own work, GFDL 1.2, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1526654

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Silybum marianum https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silybum_marianum

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America. Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Guaiacum coulteri Arbol Santo - Native Plant of the Week

Arbol Santo Guaiacum coulteri - native flowering tree endemic to western Mexico
Arbol Santo Guaiacum coulteri – native flowering tree endemic to western Mexico

Arbol Santo Guaiacum coulteri – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

Guaiacum coulteri is called Arbol Santo in Mexico which translates to Holy Tree. Sometimes it is also referred to as Palo Santo, but that common name is also used for a Bursera species. Arbol Santo is a gorgeous slow-growing tree native to the seasonally dry forests of Mexico. When you see it growing in the wild it is a real treat because of its rarity. If you are lucky enough to find it in flower, as I did, take lots of photos of its gorgeous purple or blue flowers. I was even lucky enough to find a large old-growth tree once, and will likely never see one of those again due to their extreme rarity. It has incredibly dense wood and combined with its slow growth this has resulted in population declines throughout its entire range. It is truly a magnificent tree!

Because it is a Vulnerable species whose population is in serious decline due to overexploitation and exceeding slow growth rates, please do not ever harvest or damage the trees or shrubs. Instead, take pictures to enjoy at a later date, or if you are lucky enough to live in a suitable climate try growing it in your yard. Or if you are into bonsai, grow it as a bonsai tree. Its a beautiful slow-growing tree that makes a gorgeous bonsai. Seeds for this species seem exceedingly difficult to find for purchase, but I did find one site mentioning that they have them, I will list them in the Resources section below.

Description of Guaiacum coulteri Arbol Santo

Stem & Leaves

Young Guaiacum coulteri tree

Arbol Santo is a slow-growing evergreen shrub or tree of the Zygophyllaceae family. Sometimes it only grows as a densely branched and scandent shrub, especially in rocky habitats. Other times it grows as a tree 10 – 15 m tall and 30 – 40 cm diameter. Sometimes it can grow to 25 m tall and 100 cm diameter when conditions are ideal and it is left undisturbed to grow for long periods of time. However, over-exploitation and slow growth has made individuals of this size exceedingly rare.

Its trunk bark is whitish and somewhat vertically fissured while the branches are usually greyish.

The dark green leathery leaves are paripinnate (compound with an even number of leaflets) and oppositely placed on the branches. There are 2 – 6 pairs of leaflets that will rotate on their stems in hot weather to put their edges facing the sun instead of their entire leaf blade in order to minimize heat stress.

Flowers & Fruits

Guaiacum coulteri flower with 4 petals, 4 sepals and 8 stamens, unlike the usual 5, 5 and 10 arrangement seen above.
Guaiacum coulteri flower with 4 petals, 4 sepals and 8 stamens, unlike the usual 5, 5 and 10 arrangement seen normally.
Guaiacum coulteri flower closeup up side view showing the androecium and gynoecium
Guaiacum coulteri flower closeup up side view showing the androecium and gynoecium

The purple or blue flowers appear in small fasciculate inflorescences on the tree branches. They are 1 – 2 cm across and have 5 spreading petals on twisted claws. I only found reference to it having 5 petals but I have found flowers with four petals on the same tree as those with five petals, it was accompanied by 4 sepals and 8 stamens (see photo above). Its sepals are purplish and obovate in shape with slightly inrolled margins. The tree blooms first in spring and then sporadically throughout the year until fall.

The reproductive organs are tightly grouped in the center of the flower. It has twice as many stamens as petals. Usually 10 (8) stamens with somewhat translucent looking filaments topped with yellow anthers are often in a somewhat spiraled arrangement around the pistil. This pistil is composed of a syncarpous ovary with a single filiform style.

Its fruit is a yellow-orange ovoid capsule with black seeds. The seeds are covered in a bright red aril. Due to its slow growth, it may not achieve significant seed production until it reaches 25 years of age.

Similar Species Guaiacum coulteri is Frequently Confused With

The unique flowers of the Zygophyllaceae family in general, and especially Guaiacum coulteri, make it hard to confuse with other genera, other than occasionally Ironwood, but only in their non-flowering states. Otherwise, they can be confused with the other four species of Guaiacum, which can be differentiated as follows:

  • Guaiacum unijugum – a rare microendemic species only found on a 70 km stretch in the Cape region of Baja California Sur. While it is closely related they can be differentiated based on their smaller pinnate leaves and their size as this species is a shrub, not reaching more than 2 m in height. Furthermore, while Guaiacum coulteri grows in Baja California Sur it seems to be absent from the Cape region where this rare species is only found.
  • Guaiacum angustifolium – separated geographically as an eastern species endemic to south Texas, USA and the states of Coahuila, Chihuahua, Nuevo Leon, and Tamaulipas in eastern Mexico. It has 8-16 leaflets that are 1 – 3 cm long and its capsules are obcordate, flattened, 2-4 lobed, winged, and hairy. Its petals are long and sometimes twisted but appear less clawed than G. coulteri.
  • Guaiacum officinale – also separated geographically as an eastern species native to the Caribbean islands and northern South America. Its pinnate leaves are 2.5 – 3 cm long and 2 cm wide, much more ovate in shape than any of the other Guaiacum species. The claws on its purple or blue flowers are not twisted.
  • Guaiacum sanctum – also separated geographically as an eastern species native to the Caribbean islands, Yucatan Peninsula, Central and northern South America. It has 6-8 leaflets that are 6–10 cm long. Its capsules are obovoid, 4–5-lobed, 4–5–winged, and glabrous.
  • Olneya tesota – Palo Fierro or Ironwood of the Fabaceae or legume family – as a tree it is sometimes mistaken for this tree that grows in a similar range to Arbol Santo. They have similar paripinnate leaves. However, they can easily be distinguished upon flowering as the Ironwood has pink pea-like flowers.

Distribution of Arbol Santo Guaiacum coulteri

Arbol Santo is endemic to western Mexico. It is found in the states of Oaxaca, Baja California Sur, Colima, Sonora, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Michoacán, Jalisco, Chiapas, and Guerrero.

Guaiacum coulteri is sometimes listed as being native to Guatemala, but I was not able to definitively confirm this. Reference was found to it possibly hybridizing in this location with G. sanctorum, a much more widespread species, so this could be adding to the confusion. Other sources say that it is not found outside of western Mexico. It is, however, occasionally cultivated in the Caribbean and the southern USA.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Arbol Santo, Palo Santo

Guaiacum coulteri is endemic to western Mexico where it thrives in the dry subtropical forests along the Pacific coastal states of western Mexico. It is a late succession species rarely found in young forests, further adding to its rarity.

It can sometimes be found in poor rocky exposed soils where it exists more as a shrub. In these conditions it is still able to flower and set fruit. On the other hand in forests it is found in more moderate soils. In all cases it prefers areas with low disturbance.

Growing Arbol Santo in Your Garden

Growing species native to your area is a great addition to your garden. Once established they require little to no maintenance of any kind. They already grow in your area without water or fertilizer, so they will easily grow in your yard if you live in their range. They also provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well.

Due to its rarity this tree may be difficult to find in nurseries. The more common Guaiacum officinale is much more common and easier to find in nurseries. It would make a lovely garden specimen as well. If you want Guaiacum coulteri I did find one seed source online listed in Resources below. Seeds should be started and allowed to grow for a few years at least before transplanting them into your garden.

Once ready to plant in your garden simply plant it in full sun to part shade in any well-drained soil. If your soil is dry and poor amend it with a little compost upon planting to provide it with food and extra moisture during the establishment phase. You can also top-dress with some compost for extra moisture retention. Once established however it will require no maintenance as it is a drought-tolerant species adapted to dry forests and poor soils.

If you live too far north and are into bonsai, try growing it as a bonsai tree. Its a beautiful slow-growing tree that makes a gorgeous bonsai.

Wildlife Values of Arbol Santo

Bees and butterflies are attracted to the flowers and birds assist in seed dispersal when they eat the fruits. Mammals browse the leaves and will also eat the fruits.

Status of Guaiacum coulteri

Arbol Santo is considered Globally Vulnerable. It is endemic to western Mexico and is found nowhere else in the world. Its status was last assessed in 2016 and reclassified as vulnerable with its population noted as decreasing in terms of the number of mature individuals seen in the wild in its native habitat. In 2010 only 1.3% of Guaiacum coulteri habitat was protected so this is one of the biggest problems with their current decline in population.

The populations of the entire genus are in decline and most are now protected. Population decline is believed to be a result of a combination of overexploitation for its wood, habitat loss, and its slow rate of regeneration.

Traditional or Other Uses of Arbol Santo

Arbol Santo as Wood

Arbol Santo has one of the hardest woods so it was used extensively for various tools and furniture. It is still used for its wood today, despite its declining populations. The entire genus is often referred to as lignum vitae for its wood which is one of the hardest and most dense woods there is. It is said to have a self-lubricating quality that makes it popular for mechanical uses such as wooden bearings.

Guaiacum coulteri Medicinal Uses

Guaiacum coulteri has a long history of medicinal use in Mexico. The Seri people who are native to Sonora, Mexico, used the berries as an unspecified medicine. The resin of the Caribbean species of Guaiacum was adopted for medicinal use by the Europeans by the late 15th century where it was used as a popular treatment for syphilis. Guaiacum coulteri was also later used for the same purpose.

Guaiacum resin was also used to stimulate menstruation and was sometimes used as an abortifacient in the 1700s. In the 1800s and 1900s herbalists and physicians alike used it as an expectorant, for sore throats, gout, and rheumatism.

It has been tested more recently against other popular Mexican herbal remedies and was found the most effective medicine for treating diabetes due to its ability to reduce hyperglycemia. It has been used to treat cancer and it has also been used as a diuretic, laxative, and as an anti-inflammatory for arthritis.

A phenolic compound derived from the entire genus has been commonly used to test for blood in the stool.

Arbol Santo as an Ornamental

Due to its lovely purple flowers, and its bright green evergreen leaves Arbol Santo is occasionally used as an ornamental. Sometimes it is used as a bonsai due to its slow growth and beautiful branching structure. With its declining populations, it would be nice to see this tree be propagated and more widely used as an ornamental, particularly in its native habitat. It is not going to become invasive outside its natural habitat due to its slow growth and length of time it takes to reach reproductive maturity. Ornamental plants are rarely seen exceeding 2 m in height but make beautiful shrubs for your yard if you live in a warm enough area. Other species of Guaiacum have become popular as ornamentals in Florida and California.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Guaiacum coulteri

Due to its vulnerable status, and lack of adequate protection of remaining wild stock, wildcrafting is not recommended. The wood should never be harvested anymore for this reason. Do not harvest the seeds as these need to remain in the wild for them to reproduce. See above section on Status. To learn about ethical wildcrafting principles check out my blog on Ethical Wildcrafting.

Alternatively, take lots of pictures if you find them in the wild. Also, you can grow it in your garden for its lovely growth form and beautiful purple flowers.

References and Resources

Arid Zone Trees – Possible Source for Guaiacum coulteri seeds http://www.aridzonetrees.com/guaiacum-coulteri.html

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Gordon, James E., Marco Antonio González, Jesús Vázquez Hernández, Roberto Ortega Lavariega and
Alberto Reyes-García (2005). Guaiacum coulteri: an over-logged dry forest tree of Oaxaca, Mexico. Oryx Vol 39 No 1 January 2005.

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

IUCN Red List on Guaiacum coulteri https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/30847/68085761

McCauley, Ross A., Cortés-Palomec, Aurea C., & Oyama, Ken. (2010). Distribution, genetic structure, and conservation status of the rare microendemic species, Guaiacum unijugum (Zygophyllaceae) in the Cape Region of Baja California, Mexico. Revista mexicana de biodiversidad, 81(3), 745-758. Recuperado en 26 de diciembre de 2021, de http://www.scielo.org.mx/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1870-34532010000300016&lng=es&tlng=en.

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

University of Arizona Campus Arboretum on Guaiacum coulteri https://apps.cals.arizona.edu/arboretum/taxon.aspx?id=888

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on Guaiacum https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guaiacum

Willis, Lyrae (2021).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

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