Blog

Phytolacca Americana American Pokeweed - Native Plant of the Week

The berries of Phytolacca americana American Pokeweed - Native Plant of the Week Photo by Lyrae Willis, Nashville, TN
The berries of Phytolacca americana American Pokeweed – Native Plant of the Week Photo by Lyrae Willis, Nashville, TN

American Pokeweed Phytolacca americana – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

American Pokeweed, Phytolacca americana, was a new plant for me in that I only recently ‘discovered’ it in my recent travels to the eastern USA. It grows prolifically like a weed, hence the name “Pokeweed”. It has tiny little flowers but gorgeous clusters of green berries on purple-red stems that later turn dark purple. I think what I love most about it is the contrast of the green or purple berries on those bright fuchsia-red stems. I also respect the large size of this native herbaceous perennial and its hardiness. It often grows on the edge of roads, poking out between the edge of the bushes and the sidewalks. It gets trimmed back, trampled on, and yet it still returns.

Toxicity of American Pokeweed

Phytolacca americana is poisonous to humans and most other mammals. The roots are the most toxic, followed by the mature leaves, stems, and ripe fruit. Symptoms of poisoning include severe gastritis, vomiting, sweating, bloody diarrhea, blurred vision, and loss of consciousness. People seldom die, but young children, who may eat the berries, are the most susceptible. Since the toxins can be absorbed through the skin it is recommended to limit direct contact with your skin. Birds and other small animals, however, are immune to its toxic effects.

Its toxicity is the reason this beautiful native plant is often viewed as a pest plant because it sometimes harms people, pets, or livestock. I think it is sad when native species are treated as ‘pests’ because they were here before we ever were, so who is the pest, really? Maybe we just need to be better educated about the dangers of poisonous plants. I think I may also just have a soft spot in my heart for any native plant viewed as a pest. In either case, I think it is a beautiful plant. I wanted to learn more about it and share it with others so maybe they too can better understand this misunderstood native plant. If you like misunderstood native plants as I do, be sure to check out my blog on whether cattails are really an invasive native species or do human perceptions need to change?

Description of American Pokeweed

Stem & Leaves

American Pokeweed or Phytolacca americana is a member of the Phytolaccaceae family, part of the Caryophyllales Order. It is a very tall herbaceous perennial, growing anywhere from less than 1 m to just over 3 m tall with angular-ridged greenish to fuchsia-red stems. The stems are often, though not always branched.

The large leaves grow to 35 cm long and 18 cm wide on 1-6 cm long leaf stalks (petioles). Leaf blades are ovate to lance-shaped and are entire (not toothed). The leaf tips (apex) are thin and pointed (acuminate) and its base is rounded or heart-shaped (cordate). Leaves are arranged alternately on the reddish stems.

Flowers & Fruits

The flowers of Phytolacca americana American Pokeweed - Native Plant of the Week Photo by Lyrae Willis, Fulton County, IN, USA
The flowers of Phytolacca americana American Pokeweed – Native Plant of the Week Photo by Lyrae Willis, Fulton County, IN, USA

The flowers grow in elongated racemes (clusters). Each small, perfect, radially symmetric flower has 4-5 white, greenish-white, pinkish, or purplish sepals each 2.5-3.5 mm long. The flowers have no petals, though the sepals do appear petal-like. There are 9-12 stamens in a single whorl. Usually, however, the flowers have 10 stamens. Flowers have 6-12 carpels (a carpel is the female reproductive organs = ovary + style + stigma) that are partially joined (connate) toward their base. The ovary is 6-12 loculed (chambered).

American Pokeweed produces somewhat unique 6-11 mm diameter berries that have 10 (9-12) cells. The berries start out green and later turn dark purple to almost black, with bright crimson-colored juice. The 3 mm lens-shaped shiny black seeds are embedded in the juicy berries and are mostly spread by birds that are able to eat the berries without toxic side effects.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

There are no other species it can be confused within North America. The unique stems and berry clusters make it difficult to confuse with anything else. However, there are two varieties of Phytolacca americana. Sometimes the varieties’ properties can overlap and vary making them hard to distinguish. However, in general, the two can be distinguished as follows:

  • Phytolacca americana var americana – fruit stalks (pedicels) are usually longer than 6 mm when in fruit, and are longer than the berries. The racemes are usually drooping and are typically quite long, from 12-30 cm long (raceme only, not including the stalk). This variety is much more common and widespread throughout the species’ entire range.
  • Phytolacca americana var rigida – pedicels are shorter than the berries and less than 6 mm long when in fruit. The racemes are erect and typically much shorter, usually only 6-9 cm long. This variety is also only found in eastern coastal USA from North Carolina and Virginia south along the coast as far west as Texas.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Phytolacca americana

In North America, it tends to be found in disturbed areas including pastures, edge habitats, roadsides, fence rows, forest openings, recently cleared areas and waste areas. It is an opportunistic species that seems able to thrive on human disturbance.

It grows in full sun to part shade. Due to its more opportunistic nature it can be found growing in a variety of soil and moisture conditions.

Growing American Pokeweed in Your Garden

Growing native species in your yard is easy, once established they require little or no maintenance. They also provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well. These factors all make them the perfect plant for your garden.

American Pokeweed is easy to grow from seed, you can either purchase seeds or gather some from the wild. Seeds can be obtained in the Amazon Affiliates links at the bottom of the page. Plants generally cannot be transplanted as they have a long taproot. But the seeds are fairly easy to germinate and remain viable for decades. Simply spread them on a thin layer of compost and lightly cover them with soil. Keep them moist until they germinate then thin them. Once mature each plant will need approximately 1 m of space.

Pokeweed grows quite tall but can be pruned shorter if necessary. Ideally choose a location behind your flower beds and plant it in almost any soil type and condition. It is highly opportunistic that way and will tolerate almost anything. Once past the seedling stage you can simply leave it alone, it requires no fertilizer and no water once established. Just let it grow and harvest it yourself if that is your reason for growing it, or leave it be and let the wildlife feast on the berries when they come ripe.

Winter Maintenance

Even though it is a herbaceous perennial and will die back for the winter, do not cut the dead growth back until spring. If there are remaining berries on the bush the birds, rodents, deer, etc will keep returning to nibble on them all winter long. Then in the spring before it gets new shoots, cut the dead stems back to ground level.

Wildlife Values of American Pokeweed

American pokeweed feeds numerous native wildlife species from birds like robins, hummingbirds, and bluebirds to squirrels, foxes, opossums and raccoons. Most animals eat the juicy berries when ripe but white-tailed deer also feed on the leaves and stems, especially in the spring. It is also a host to the lovely leopard moths and it’s an important plant for migratory birds in eastern North America.

Distribution of American Pokeweed Phytolacca americana

In Canada, Phytolacca americana is found only in the eastern provinces of Ontario, Quebec, and New Brunswick.

In the USA American Pokeweed is found throughout all the eastern states from Minnesota south to Louisiana and all states east of there. It is also found in the southern states of Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona with scattered populations in the pacific coast states of California, Oregon and Washington. It is most widespread in the eastern USA.

In Mexico, it has been found in Baja California (norte), Nuevo Leon, Veracruz, and along the eastern edge of Oaxaca. It is likely native there due to populations on the southern border of the USA. Though its populations and status there do not appear to have been studied.

American Pokeweed was formerly a North American endemic species. Globally it has now been introduced to numerous countries in Europe as well as in Japan.

Status of Phytolacca americana

American Pokeweed is considered Globally Secure (G5). Given its weedy opportunistic tendencies, this is not surprising as it is a tough plant tolerant of various growing conditions including human disturbance.

In Canada, Phytolacca americana is considered Apparently Secure (S4). It is unranked in Quebec and New Brunswick.

However in the USA, it is only considered Secure locally (S5) in Iowa, Kentucky, Virginia, West Virginia, and Delaware. It is Apparently Secure (S4) in Illinois. As is the case with most of our native plants it is as yet unranked in most of the states that it is currently found in. The unranked states it is found in include: Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, Georgia Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California, Oregon, and Washington.

Traditional or Other Uses of American Pokeweed

American Pokeweed Use as a Vegetable

Poke salad was a common food eaten regularly as recently as the mid 1900’s. The young leaves were picked, washed, then cooked. The water was poured out, new water added, then cooked again, and rinsed out again. This process deactivated the toxins and rinsed them out of the young leaves. Only the young leaves were eaten this way as they became more toxic with maturity. Young shoots were also picked and eaten similar to asparagus. The berries were frequently used to color wine and eaten cooked in pies, usually mixed with other berries.

The Cherokee Nation of the USA has a long traditional history of the use of American Pokeweed. They too would cook and eat the greens. The later settlers no doubt learned this practice from them. The Cherokee people used to pick the young leaves and dry them for later use. They would also peel, cook and eat the young stems like asparagus. Sometimes they would even dip the stems in egg, and then cornmeal, and fry them as you would fish. They also used the berries in wines for flavor and color. The Iroquois and Malecite also occasionally used Phytolacca americana as a food source.

Phytolacca americana Medicinal Uses

Medicinally American Pokeweed was used by native North Americans for a number of ailments. Usually, the root was used medicinally, mostly externally but also internally, no doubt under strictly controlled supervision as the root is the most poisonous. The Iroquois used it for various skin conditions, rashes, bruises, etc. They also used it for rheumatism and problems with the liver or blood. The Delaware, Mahuna, and Micmac used it for similar purposes in similar ways. The Mohegan used the mashed berries as a poultice for sore breasts for nursing mothers. It was also used as a poison by the Iroquois Mohegan and Mahuna peoples. The Iroquois even used it as a love medicine where they would ‘tie in a poplar tree, then place among roots’.

More recently Phytolacca americana has been widely used by herbalists for various skin ailments, particularly hemorrhoids. It is also being studied for its known potent antiviral and antifungal properties. It is even being examined for use against HIV (Human Immunodeficiency Virus).

Ethical Wildcrafting of Phytolacca americana

If you want to wildcraft Phytolacca americana please find a nice large and healthy population to harvest from. If you find just a few plants or a single plant please leave them alone to reproduce. Even though it is a weedy species whose status is currently secure, it is a plant with a ‘bad rap’ that is often eradicated locally due to its being so misunderstood and feared. So when wildcrafting, as always, please follow the 1 in 20 rule as described in the Ethical Wildcrafting post. Also, because it tends to grow well under human disturbance, be sure the area you are wildcrafting from is free of major sources of pollution.

Wildcrafting and Processing

If you are harvesting wear gloves to minimize contact exposure. When harvesting leaves pick 1 in every 20 leaves you see and place them in a bag or basket. Then bring them home and either dry them flat on a screen or rack for later use or cook them right away if making poke salad. Please be very careful if you are ingesting them in any way, be aware of the poisonous properties, and treat the plant with the respect it deserves. If storing the greens be sure to label the bag or jar with TOXIC IF INGESTED to prevent others from accidentally ingesting enough to poison themselves.

If you are harvesting the roots then dig the root with a digging stick as described in the Ethical Wildcrafting post. Bring the root home and remove any dirt, then slice it into smaller manageable pieces before drying for later use. Once dried it can be made into a tincture or a salve. If you are not a trained herbalist please limit your use of the root to external applications only. Be sure to label TOXIC IF INGESTED on your harvesting bag, rack, and tincture bottles to prevent others from accidentally ingesting the poison.

Berries can be harvested when ripe, pick the entire cluster (only picking 1 in 20 clusters that you see), then bring them home and either use them right away or dry them on a screen or rack for later use. Again, be sure to label the storage jar with TOXIC IF INGESTED to prevent others from accidentally ingesting toxic amounts of the berries.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Lilium columbianum Columbia Tiger Lily - Native Plant of the Week

Columbia Tiger Lily, Lilium columbianum photo from In-Shuck-ch FSR near Pemberton, BC, Canada
Columbia Tiger Lily, Lilium columbianum photo from In-Shuck-ch FSR near Pemberton, BC, Canada

Columbia Tiger Lily Lilium columbianum – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

The Columbia Tiger Lily or Lilium columbianum is a beautiful true lily of the Liliaceae family. For most of my life, its familiar bloom greeted me in late spring throughout the summer in the southern half of British Columbia where I have spent most of my life. The pretty orange blossoms with their unique turban-shaped features are difficult to confuse with other species. I love seeing them on the sides of the road in late spring and early summer when they are at their peak.

But nothing breaks my heart more than watching people pick handfuls of the beautiful flowers, clearly not recognizing the damage they are doing. Anytime you pick a flower from the wild you are preventing it from reproducing. In some cases, you are dooming the entire plant and all of its future offspring. The flowers of virtually all plants give rise to the fruits and/or seeds that are the next generation. While the Columbia Tiger Lily is still somewhat common, I have noticed it becoming less common in areas where I have witnessed them being picked.

The Columbia Tiger Lily, Lilium columbianum, was an important staple food source for many native peoples in western North America. It is still sometimes gathered and eaten as food, but please follow good Ethical Wildcrafting principles if you want to try this.

In recent years Lilium columbianum has been becoming more and more available commercially. I love the idea of our beautiful native plants being made available commercially. As long as gardeners purchase their seeds or bulbs from a native plant supplier who propagates themselves and does not harvest from the wild that is. Particularly if it is native in your area, please buy some seeds and grow them in your own yard. You will not be disappointed! See the section on Growing Columbia Tiger Lily below for more information.

Description of Columbia Tiger Lily

Stem & Leaves

A variable but usually tall plant on slender stems up to 1-2 m tall. Sometimes they may be shorter, even as low as 15 cm tall when found growing in subalpine conditions. They grow from highly variable-shaped elongated bulbs up to 5 cm in diameter.

The thin stems have anywhere from 3 – 20 whorled leaves arranged equally around the same node. As you go up the stem towards the flowers the leaves become only partially whorled then scattered. Its leaves are more or less elliptical in shape to wider near the tip (apex) and narrower at the base (oblanceolate) and are anywhere from 1.5 – 15.5 cm long. The apex (tip) is always sharply pointed to varying degrees (acute to acuminate). The leaves are always at least twice to several times longer than they are wide. Leaf margins are often smooth but may be slightly wavy (undulate).

Leaves of the Columbia Tiger Lily, Lilium columbianum photo from Carlson Lake, BC, Canada
Leaves of the Columbia Tiger Lily, Lilium columbianum photo from Carlson Lake, BC, Canada
Mature flower close-up of Lilium columbianum showing exerted stamens & reflexed petals.
Mature flower close-up of Lilium columbianum showing exerted stamens & reflexed petals.

Flowers & Fruits

The flowers bloom anywhere from May to September, depending on elevation and latitude. They are beautiful, but not fragrant. Flowers are bright, showy, light orange nodding flowers with maroon-purple to reddish spots on their six tepals. Being a lily they have ‘tepals’ in that their sepals and petals appear virtually identical and are not easily distinguished. The tepals are characteristically reflexed, bending backward so far they often touch their tips together at the back of the flower. The shape is often referred to as Turk’s cap or turban shaped.

The anthers are yellow to orange in color and are borne on exserted filaments in that they extend out of the flower beyond the tepals. Flowers from northern populations typically have more exserted stamens (anthers + filaments) than those in the southern end of its range.

There are anywhere from 1 and up to 15 flowers per stem in favorable conditions. The flowers are pollinated by rufous hummingbirds and swallowtail butterflies. In late summer or early fall, they produce a seed capsule 2.2 – 5.5 cm long.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

  • Lilium kelloggii – this plant may hybridize with Lilium columbianum in the southern part of its range which can make it hard to identify. However, L. kelloggii is not found north of Oregon. Its flowers are more fragrant than not but are also reflexed. However, the tepals are always more pink than orange, sometimes with orange stripes.
  • Lilium occidentale – this plant has a very limited range, being found only along the coast in southwestern Oregon and northwestern California. The flower tepals are reflexed but are very red in color.
  • Lilium pardalinum – this plant may hybridize with Lilium columbianum in the southern part of its range making them hard to identify. However, it is also not found north of southernmost Oregon. It is a highly variable species with many subspecies. In general, however, its tepals are always varying shades of red towards their tips, orange towards their base. While the tepals are reflexed they are typically not as reflexed as Lilium columbianum.
  • Lilium philadelphicum – this is the only other one that Lilium columbianum could be confused within eastern British Columbia, Canada as it is the only other ‘Tiger Lily’ that grows there, and the only area where it overlaps L. columbianum in range. These are easily distinguished however by the usually red or darker orange tepals that are never reflexed.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Columbia Tiger Lily

Though its range is somewhat limited, it is common where it does grow and it adapts to a variety of different ecosystems. It can be found in clearings, meadows, forest edges, and on roadsides, particularly in the mountains where they have been less picked. They also grow in a variety of forest types including scrub, mixed or coniferous. The Columbia Tiger Lily also tolerates a wide range of elevations, being found anywhere from 0 – 1800 m above sea level.

Lilium columbianum typically grows in partial shade but can be found in full sun or full shade. In full shade they are more lanky with less flowers. They prefer rich loamy soil types as long as they are well-drained soils. They do not grow in waterlogged soils.

Growing Columbia Tiger Lily in Your Garden

Native species are fantastic additions to your garden. If you live in the Pacific Northwest, once established these will require little to no maintenance and they provide important wildlife and biodiversity values as well as their aesthetic beauty. Please purchase seeds or bulbs from a native plant supplier who propagates themselves and does not harvest from the wild that is. Seeds are a better choice if you are uncertain where the supplier is getting their bulbs from, there are some available in the Amazon Affiliates section at the bottom of this article.

When started from seed Columbia Tiger Lily takes 3 – 5 years to mature before it produces and significant bulbs and abundant flowers. If you already have bulbs you can divide them or gently remove the bulb scales to more quickly produce new plants. Share your bulbs around with your friends in the Pacific Northwest and have them grow them too!

Be sure you have a spot with rich loamy soil. If not, dig up a roughly 70 cm cubic pit of soil out of your chosen spot and fill it with rich loamy soil. Plant your seeds, bulbs or plants and amend the surface with organic compost for food and water retention. Keep it moist but not wet, wet soil can cause basal rot.

If your land is prone to waterlogging be sure to also dig out a pit of soil but add sand and gravel to the bottom of the pit and mix a little sand into your loamy soil. Then plant the bulbs or seeds in a raised mount of soil. This will help keep them drier than the surrounding land. Waterlogged plants are prone to basal rot which will kill the plant.

Winter Maintenance

Columbia Tiger Lily is a herbaceous perennial so the above-ground growth will die back each fall. Once the leaves have all died you can cut it down. If you live in a particularly cold area you could put some mulch over the bulbs in the winter to protect them. Then when spring comes you can dig them up and divide the bulbs, if desired.

Pests and Other Problems

Aphids may attack your plants as they are fond of most lilies. If this is the case spray them with diluted neem oil as a safe treatment. Neem works great on aphids and will not harm the plants.

Wildlife Values of Columbia Tiger Lily

Multiple native pollinators visit the Columbia Tiger Lily including butterflies, birds, bees (native and honeybees), and more. Though native peoples ate the bulbs on a regular basis it is not certain if wildlife ever feed on the bulbs.

Distribution of Columbia Tiger Lily Lilium columbianum

Columbia Tiger Lily is endemic to western North America, being found nowhere else in the world. In Canada, it is found throughout the southern half of British Columbia. In the USA it is found throughout most of Washington, the northern tip of Idaho, the extreme northwest corner of Montana, western Oregon, and the northwest corner of California. It is found nowhere else in North America.

Status of Lilium columbianum

Columbia Tiger Lily is considered Secure (S5). However, it is only secure in British Columbia, Canada. It is considered Imperiled (S2) in Montana, USA where it has an extremely limited distribution. In Idaho, Washington, Oregon, and California it is as yet Unranked, sadly as is the case with so many of our native US plant species. Clearly, the USA needs to do more to assess its plant populations so that they can be adequately ranked.

Traditional or Other Uses of Columbia Tiger Lily

The Columbia Tiger Lily has a long history of use as a staple food source by native peoples in western North America. The following groups of people were all noted as using it as a source of food whether eaten fresh, steamed, dried, etc. They include: Clallam, Klallam, Lummi, Nitinaht, Okanagan, Okanagan-Colville, Quileute, Quinault, Samish, Shuswap, Skagit, Swinomish, Skokomish, and Thompson.

The flavor has been described anywhere from peppery and tasty, somewhat resembling chestnuts to varying levels of bitterness. The flavor likely varies between different regions as well as harvest times. Bulbs were usually gathered in the late summer or early fall after the flowers had died off. Sometimes, however, they were also harvested in the spring. They were gathered and then steamed in pits and eaten warm, or eaten later cold with oil. The Thompson people would also boil them with salmon roe during the salmon runs and eat it as a favorite dish among their people.

Columbia Tiger Lily bulbs were also processed and stored as a winter food staple. After steaming they would be dried and made into storage cakes with dried meat or berries, especially saskatoon berries. They would then be eaten throughout the winter in cakes or added to soups.

There are no references found for using Lilium columbianum for medicinal purposes. Other closely related lily species were used in various medicinal preparations, but no medicinal uses for Columbia Tiger Lily were found. However, the Okanagan-Colville people would mix the mashed bulbs with stinkbugs to ward against ‘plhax’ in a form of witchcraft medicine.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Lilium columbianum

Ideally if you live in the Pacific Northwest try growing these beautiful flowers in your garden. See the section above for more information. If you still want to try the bulb of the Columbia Tiger Lily as a wild food, first be sure that the population is secure in your area. Then be sure to find a nice large and healthy population. If you find just a few plants or a single plant please leave them alone to reproduce.

When wildcrafting follow the 1 in 20 rule for plants as described in the Ethical Wildcrafting post. For every 20 plants you see, you can harvest one. Since you are digging the bulb you will no doubt kill the plant during harvest so please stick closely to the 1 in 20 rule. To help aid in propagation wait until the flowers have died and the seeds have formed. This way, when you harvest the bulbs you can scatter the mature seeds so that they will grow into new plants.

Wildcrafting and Processing Tips

When you dig the bulbs please do not use a shovel as it will damage the bulbs as well as the roots of surrounding plants. Instead, use a digging stick as these are far less damaging. A digging stick is any short, sturdy stick that won’t break when you dig the soil with it. You can bring your own or find one along the way. Dig into the ground just out from the base of the plant until you find the bulb(s). Once dug, brush the dirt off the bulbs and place them in a basket of some kind and bring them home to process them.

To prevent molding bulbs should be processed soon after picking. To process bulbs simply clean them and steam them or cook them in a pit in the traditional way. Some sources mention that drying them for a couple of days in the sun first may help remove some of the bitter flavors. But, as this bitterness is variable and subjective, you could try it either way.

Please, if you are trying this, do so in moderation. The days of using wild food for subsistence living in North America are for the most part long gone. This is thanks to invasive species, habitat destruction, and other harmful human practices that threaten our wild plant populations. It might be fun to try, but it is no longer a lifestyle we can choose to live if we want our native species to survive in the future.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2021).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Desert Thorn Apple Datura discolor - Native Plant of the Week

Fruit of Datura discolor - photo from Mazatlan, Sinaloa, Mexico by Lyrae Willis
Fruit of Datura discolor – photo from Mazatlan, Sinaloa, Mexico by Lyrae Willis
Flower of Datura discolor - photo from Mazatlan, Sinaloa, Mexico by Lyrae Willis
Flower of Datura discolor – photo from Mazatlan, Sinaloa, Mexico by Lyrae Willis

Desert Thorn Apple, Toloache, Datura discolor – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

Desert Thorn Apple, or commonly called Toloache in Mexico, is the species Datura discolor. The Datura genus are of the Solanaceae or Nightshade family along with tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and eggplants. It is a beautiful, hearty plant worthy of our respect and admiration, but with extreme caution due to its toxicity.

The Desert Thorn Apple is often seen growing on roadsides as well as in semi-open natural areas in sandy soils and washes (dry creek beds in dry climates or deserts where water flows when it rains) throughout its range. Even when it is in the dry season, the Desert Thorn Apple still often appears lush and green when little else is. It has large, beautiful, delicate-looking white trumpet-shaped flowers whose throat is tinged with varying shades of purple. Its beauty and drought tolerance make it popular as a garden plant in its natural range. However, in some areas, it can be illegal to sell, buy or even grow Datura plants.

Toxicity of the Desert Thorn Apple or Toloache

Don’t let the incredible beauty of the large trumpet flowers of Datura discolor fool you. As with all other Datura species, the entire plant is potentially highly toxic. The flowers, leaves, roots, and especially the seeds all contain a potentially lethal mix of toxic alkaloids including scopolamine and atropine. Datura species have been known to poison people, livestock, and pets. Its effects have at times been fatal. Children, in particular, seem to be susceptible to the atropine alkaloids.

If ingested these alkaloids may cause symptoms ranging from dry skin, dry mouth, dilated pupils, muscle stiffness, and confusion to agitation, paralysis, delirium, amnesia, strong hallucinations, and even death. Most human cases of toxicity are from intentional ingestion of a more common closely related species known as Jimson Weed, Datura stramonium. Teenagers and young adults frequently ingest or smoke the plant for its potentially hallucinogenic effects, but often end up hospitalized, or worse, from its unintended toxic side effects.

Avoiding Toxic Effects

It is, however, easy to avoid poisoning from the Desert Thorn Apple as most poisonings are from intentional ingestion. Simply don’t ingest it. Sometimes however it can get mixed in with plant harvests and contaminate livestock feed. If there is a lot of Datura in your fields simply go and remove the plants at harvest time to prevent contamination. There was even a case of poisoning from a certain type of semi-domesticated honey wasp that caused poisoning from honey, though this method of ingestion appears to be quite rare.

Treatment for Poisonings

Most people are hospitalized due to their agitated state. The primary treatment for poisoning is activated charcoal to reduce the absorption of the toxic alkaloids by the stomach. Hospitals may also administer drugs to calm the patients down and counteract the effects. Pets and livestock are treated with activated charcoal.

Description of Datura discolor

Leaves & Stem

Datura discolor plant from above showing growth habit, leaves and flower.
Datura discolor plant from above showing growth habit, leaves and flower.

Desert Thorn Apple or Toloache is an annual or short-lived perennial sub-shrub that varies considerably in height. It can be a low-growing somewhat sprawling shrub less than 50 cm tall to an upright one growing up to 1.5 m tall. Its tough stalks are green with purple stripes (striations) on them. The purple striations are often quite conspicuous and help aid in its identification to help distinguish it from other species of Datura. The widely ovate-shaped leaves are 5-18 cm long and 3-16 cm wide. The leaves may or may not be toothed (dentate) or slightly wavy-edged (undulate). The surfaces may or may not be variously hairy (pubescent).

Flowers & Fruits

Datura discolor has very large, upright white funnelform (somewhat trumpet-shaped) flowers with varying shades of purple (see photo at top of page). The purple is usually in the throat of the flower but sometimes also on the edges of the flared face (corolla) of the flower. The 8-15 cm long flower tubes are surrounded by a 6-14 cm long tubular calyx. The corolla of the flower is 4-8 cm wide generally with 5 strong points or acumens (and 5 shorter acumens) that are usually short and vary from acute to acuminate on the very edges of the corolla. The flowers are short-lived, opening at night and typically withering after just one day.

It has a spiny roundish (globose) seed capsule 2.5-4 cm wide, as do most Datura species (see photo at top of page). The capsule has 200 to 300 spines that are each 1.3-2 cm long. The capsule splits or dehisces along 4 sutures releasing numerous black kidney-shaped (reniform) seeds. Its persistent round (rotate) calyx surrounds the base of the seed capsule where it attaches to the stem.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Datura discolor could easily be confused with any of the other 8-13 species of Datura. The number of species varies with the source. Some experts only accept 9 species while other sources accept up to 14 separate species. All species tend to be highly variable, growing according to their environmental conditions. This can make identification challenging.

There are some key differences that will help you distinguish Desert Thorn Apple from the others. Here is a list of the other species found in the same range as Datura discolor and their differences in habitat or appearance:

  • Datura ceratocaula – native to Mexico but prefers swamps or other wet areas, unlike most other Datura species. The flowers often have a bluish tinge. Also unlike all other Datura species, the seed capsules are never spiny making them easy to distinguish.
  • Datura ferox – the long spine thorn apple once thought to be native to China actually originated in the Americas and is native to Mexico and Central America. It is known for its particularly long spines on its seed capsules. The leaves are toothed and hairy and its hairy stalks are thick and often tinged with red. It is an upright annual no more than 90 cm tall.
  • Datura innoxia – the downy or recurved thorn apple also grows in a similar range, but it is known for its downy soft leaves and stems making the plant appear soft and greyish in color. The flowers are similar in size but usually have recurved edges that bend downwards. The fruits are larger and usually egg-shaped and split irregularly instead of along 4 sutures.
  • Datura leichhardtii – grows in similar habitats and to similar heights as Datura discolor. However, this plant is covered with small hairs and has smaller inconspicuous yellowish-white flowers that set it apart from other Datura species.
  • Datura quercifolia – found in similar habitats but also survives in moist environments in full sun. It is distinguished by its oak-shaped leaves and its small pale violet funnel-shaped flowers that seldom exceed 4.5 cm long.
  • Datura stramonium – common jimsonweed is an aggressive weed throughout the range of Datura discolor. Its flowers however are more fragrant than the Desert Thorn Apple, are only 6 – 9 cm long, generally do not ever fully open, and they are usually white or cream and rarely violet in color. The seed capsules also open along 4 sutures but they are larger, up to 8 cm long, and are oval or egg-shaped, not round.
  • Datura wrightii – grows in the southwestern USA and northern Mexico but it is a herbaceous perennial growing to 1.5 m tall and wide. Its leaves are more rounded, tapering to a point and may be wavy but generally are not toothed. The flowers are also large and white (to 20 cm long) and may be tinged with purple, but are much more fragrant and generally last much longer. The similar-sized capsules have more spines (300-400) but they contain tan instead of black seeds.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Desert Thorn Apple

Desert Thorn Apple, Datura discolor, is common in sunny, dry places throughout the Sonoran desert and surrounding areas of the southwestern USA, Mexico, and Caribbean islands in arid and semi-arid areas. Desert Thorn Apple is also frequently found on roadsides and next to buildings where the eaves protect its delicate flowers from the rains. It is generally only found at lower elevations, below 600 m.

It prefers open sunny areas in sandy soils and washes (dry creek beds) throughout its range. It can be found in part shade but not full shade. It prefers dry soil and can tolerate drought conditions. It can tolerate moist soil types but will not grow in wet soil.

Growing Desert Thorn Apple in Your Garden

If you live in the southwest of USA, Caribbean, Mexico or other nearby areas Desert Thorn Apple will be very easy to grow in your garden. Please check your are to make sure it is legal to grow however as in some states it is regulated. If you are able to grow it then fantastic, native species, once established, require little to no maintenance making them the perfect garden plant.

If given a little TLC Desert Thorn Apple will behave as a short-lived perennial, otherwise it grows as an annual. Collect the seeds each year and scatter them in your chosen spot to grow on their own, or if you prefer you could start them in pots and transfer them to your garden from there. It would be best to start them in newspaper pots, peat pots, or other biodegradable pots so that you do not have to disturb their roots when you plant them in your garden.

Find a nice sunny spot with sandy soil, but amend it with a small amount of organic compost in order to feed it so that it grows larger and produces more flowers than it would in sandy soils alone.

If your soil is too heavy or rich dig out a 50 cm x 50 cm x 50 cm pit and mix sand and/or gravel into the soil before putting it back in the pit. If the area is prone to collect moisture then try planting the seeds on top of a slight mound so that it is higher than the surrounding soil allowing it some extra drainage. When it comes to Desert Thorn Apple the soil really never can be too dry providing you water it if it does happen to look wilted.

Distribution of Datura discolor

In the USA, Desert Thorn Apple is native in California and Arizona. In North America it does not grow any further north than California and Arizona, being entirely absent from Canada.

In Mexico, it is more widespread throughout the western, central, and southern states. It is native in Sonora, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Baja California, Baja California Sur, Mexican Pacific Islands, Jalisco, Guanajuato, Colima, Michoacan, Queretaro, San Luis Potosi, Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, Puebla, Guerrero, Veracruz, Oaxaca, and Chiapas. It has also been found in the Caribbean, particularly in Cuba and Puerto Rico, where it is also believed to be native.

Many Datura species have now been introduced around the world. Datura discolor has been introduced to western India and different parts of northern and southern Africa.

Status of Datura discolor

Desert Thorn Apple, Toloache, or Datura discolor, is considered Globally Secure (G5). In the USA, as is the case with most native plants it seems, it is yet unranked. No other information on its status could be found. However, it is a hearty plant that is relatively common in its natural range. It has also been introduced outside of its natural range, so its actual global status is likely fairly Secure.

Traditional or Other Uses of Desert Thorn Apple

In North America Datura species were frequently used ritualistically by shamans, medicine men, and other spiritual leaders to induce hallucinations. Various species were widely used, however, not just the Desert Thorn Apple, but all Daturas in their range. It was reportedly used this way by the Pima, Navajo, Havasupai, and Southern Paiute. The Aztecs of Mexico widely used it by their medicine men, necromancers, and also in their ritualistic sacrifices. It is apparently even an ingredient of the well-known Haitian ‘Zombie Poison”.

Datura discolor the Desert Thorn Apple or Toloache was also used medicinally. Specifically the Pima peoples in North America used it as an analgesic for childbirth, on the skin for sores or to draw pus from boils, as a wash for sore eyes, as a gastrointestinal aid for ulcers, and the heated flowers as a poultice for earaches.

In the Old World, after it was introduced from the New World, it was also used both medicinally and ritualistically. Medicinally it was used in similar ways as Belladonna. Sometimes Datura was also used to poison people, in witchcraft, or as an aid to suicide.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Datura discolor

Ingestion of Desert Thorn Apple, in any form and quantity, is no longer recommended or commonly practiced. If you are however using it in a ritual and not planning to ingest it in any form then please follow standard Ethical Wildcrafting principles. Find a nice large and healthy population to harvest whichever parts of the plant you wish to harvest. Please try not to kill the entire plant when you wildcraft as it is a native species in North America. If you are wanting to grow it in your garden simply harvest the ripe seeds and plant them the following spring.

And of course, be absolutely certain that you bring a paper bag with a pen to carefully label the species and location. Once labeled add “TOXIC IF INGESTED” in large bold print on the bag so that it is never accidentally ingested. While drying keep the label with the plant parts that are drying. Once dried and ready to be stored follow the practice of carefully labeling species and severe toxicity if ingested, again to prevent anyone from accidentally ingesting it and poisoning themselves.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/

Rel de Herbarios del Noroeste de Mexico https://herbanwmex.net/portal/

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia on effects of ingestion and treatment: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datura

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Mountain Arnica Arnica latifolia - Native Plant of the Week

Mountain Arnica, Broadleaf Arnica, Arnica latifolia.  Lyrae Willis photo 2019, Strutel Creek Edgewood, BC, Canada
Mountain Arnica, Broadleaf Arnica, Arnica latifolia. Lyrae Willis photo 2019, Strutel Creek Edgewood, BC, Canada

Mountain Arnica Arnica latifolia – Native Plant of the Week

Introduction

Mountain Arnica, Broadleaf Arnica, or Arnica latifolia is a common native wildflower found in the mountains of western North America. The Arnica genus has numerous species and is well-known to herbalists, wildflower enthusiasts, and nature lovers alike.  In the summer, when you go up the mountains, you are often greeted by their abundant cheerful yellow blooms. 

There are actually numerous different species of Arnica in North America, and often, to the untrained eye, they can be difficult to tell them apart. However, with a little training on the physical characteristics of the Asteraceae flowers they can readily be identified (see Description below). Fortunately, however, if you are wanting to use them medicinally many of the Arnicas share similar medicinal properties.  However, some species are rarer than others. So if you are doing any ethical wildcrafting, please keep this in mind. Check for rare species in your area to ensure you are not picking from rare plants. 

Description of Mountain or Broadleaf Arnica

Leaves & Stem

Broadleaf Arnica or Mountain Arnica is a perennial herb 10-60 cm tall from simple stems that are sometimes branched. It grows from a sturdy rhizome and produces hairy flower stalks that rarely have more than 2-4 pairs of leaves on them. There are, however usually numerous leaves growing in a rosette around the base of the flower stalks. The 2-10 cm long leaves are usually toothed and may or may not have leaf stalks (petioles). The leaves are usually broadly lance-shaped but can vary from lance-shaped to almost heart-shaped (cordate).

Flowers & Fruit

The flowers are yellow sunflower-like flowers typical of the Asteraceae family. There are 1-5 flower heads per stalk with anywhere from 8-15 ray florets (the ‘petals’ of an Asteraceae compound flower) per flower. The ray florets surround a slightly darker yellow central disk of 20-90 disk florets (tiny little flowers in the central area of an Asteraceae compound flower). If you want to learn more about Asteraceae flowers and their unique physical characteristics, I suggest you check out the diagrams here https://cronodon.com/BioTech/asteraceae.html . You can also read the Wiki page on Asteraceae, it is very informative. However, the above link has much better diagrams showing the different physical features of the composite flowers.

The bracts surrounding the compound flower (involucres) are narrowly shaped like a spinning top (turbinate). There are from 8-20 lance-shaped or reverse lance-shaped (oblanceolate) phyllaries (the second set of bracts surrounding the base of Asteraceae flowers) below the involucre bracts. Their reduced calyx or sepals (pappus) is seen as a white and bristly tuft of hairs outside the corolla of each of the tiny little florets.

Their fruit is known as a cypsela, a small seed with a hairy tuft of a pappus that remains attached, aiding in dispersal by wind. The cypsela is dark brown, 5-9 mm long, and sparsely covered with long, soft, straight hairs (villous).

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Different species of Arnica are usually distinguished by their leaf shape, florets, cypsela, pappus, and their involucres. There are numerous species in North America all with a similar superficial appearance. The variability in leaf shape, and similar habitat preferences, can make Arnica latifolia easy to confuse with Arnica cordifolia in particular with its heart-shaped (cordate) leaves. In the case of Arnica cordifolia, its leaves are heart-shaped (cordate), never lance-shaped, and always have petioles. Furthermore, Arnica cordifolia typically has fewer ray florets and their involucres are broadly bell-shaped (campanulate). Finally, the cypsela of Arnica cordifolia is 5-10 mm long, dark grey, and sparsely to densely covered in coarse, long, rough hairs (hirsute) and sometimes may be covered in stalked glands (stipitate-glandular).

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Mountain Arnica

Mountain Arnica, Broadleaf Arnica, or Arnica latifolia is native to western North America. It is typically, though not exclusively, found in relatively moist montane to subalpine forests from 500-3300 m in elevation. As you increase in latitude, the elevation it is found at decreases, as with most wildflowers. It grows in both forests and open meadows. It is often seen growing along the side of logging roads and even in older clear-cuts, providing these have enough moisture.

Mountain Arnica is usually found in full sun to part shade. In hotter climates, it prefers part shade but prefers more sun as you move north. It prefers sandy well-drained, slightly alkaline soils. But it can also be found growing in a variety of soil types as long as they are well drained as it will not grow in waterlogged soils.

Growing Mountain Arnica in Your Garden

Arnica latifolia can be relatively easy to grow if the conditions are suitable. If you live in a mountainous area in western North America, you should have no problem growing it. If you live in a dry climate, it may be more challenging to grow it in your yard, but it can be done. Arnica tolerates full sun to part shade and prefers moist but well-drained soils. Be sure to amend your soil with some organic compost for food and moisture retention. Otherwise, being a native species, it will require little to no maintenance once it becomes established in your yard.

If you have heavy clay or very sandy and gravelly soils you should dig out a pit of soil and fill it with a humus-rich topsoil instead. Then plant your seeds or your plants in the pit you created. If your land tends to be waterlogged (heavy clay soil), then place the plants or seeds on a mound higher than the surrounding soil so that it can get extra drainage. If your land tends to drain too quickly after a rain (lots of gravel and sand) then place the plants or seeds in a small depression so that it collects and holds water better for longer periods of time. Again, once established, they should require little to no maintenance.

Wildlife Values of Arnica

Nothing could be found on the wildlife values of Arnica latifolia. If you know of some please Contact Me!

Distribution of Mountain or Broadleaf Arnica

In Canada, Arnica latifolia is found in the Yukon and Northwest Territories, as well as in British Columbia and Alberta.

In the USA, it is native to Washington, Oregon, California, Idaho, Montana, Colorado, Wyoming, Nevada, Utah, and New Mexico. According to iNaturalist it may also be found in Arizona, USA.

According to iNaturalist Arnica latifolia may be found in Mexico in the states of Sinaloa and Jalisco. Those reports, however, are all as of yet unconfirmed. Arnica latifolia is a highly diverse species, and there are many species of Arnica that resemble each other making positive identifications challenging for the untrained. So we could assume its southern limit maybe California and New Mexico, and the northern limit is Alaska, Yukon, and Northwest Territories.

Status of Arnica latifolia

Mountain or Broadleaf Arnica is considered Secure (G5). However, it is only Secure (G5) in British Columbia, Canada. It is considered Apparently Secure (S4) in Alberta, Canada. In the Yukon and Northwest Territories, it is considered Vulnerable (S3). It is considered Vulnerable (S3) in Utah and Wyoming in the United States. In all other states where it is located, it is as of yet Unranked, as is the case of many native plants in that region.

Traditional or Other Uses of Mountain Arnica

Arnica species have long been used in Europe in salves, tinctures, and ointments for their anti-inflammatory properties for sore muscles, stiffness, and bruises. It was also widely used for various first aid treatments as an antiseptic and antibacterial, for insect bites, and healing wounds. However, it should be noted that Arnica is no longer recommended for internal use due to possible toxic effects. Furthermore, many herbalists recommend that it be used only on unbroken skin due to the possibility of irritation in sensitive individuals. Despite these warnings, Arnica is still a widely used topical herbal medicine today.

There is less documented historical use of Arnica in North America compared to that of Europe. But native peoples in North America did sometimes use Arnica species. Poultices were made by the Thompson to reduce swellings, treat rheumatism, and for cuts and bruises. Catawba people used root decoctions internally back pain. Shuswap used an infusion externally for sore eyes.

The Okanagan-Colville used it as a love potion when mixed with the heart and tongue of a robin and red ochre.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Arnica latifolia for Medicinal Use

When wildcrafting, follow the 1 in 20 rule for flowers as described in the Ethical Wildcrafting post. For every 20 flowers you see, pick one. Do not pick all the flowers off a single plant instead, spread your harvest around. Alternatively, grow it in your garden, see the section above on Growing Arnica in Your Garden.

Find a nice large and healthy population of flowers to harvest from. If you find just a few plants or a single plant, please leave them alone to reproduce. Arnica flowers should be picked in the summer when in full bloom but before they start to go to seed. Do not pick the flowers when they are wet with dew or rain to help prevent molding. Also, do not pick in the heat of the day if the flowers look ‘droopy’. The quality will be poor and it is more damaging to the plant. The goal is to leave the plant alive and still thriving when you are done.

Wildcrafting and Processing

To pick the flowers, simply pinch them off their stalks at the base of the flower. They are easily plucked from their stems this way, but if you find them tough use a knife, scissors, or hand cutters to cut them off (See Resources below). Never pull the stalks out to harvest the flowers or you could damage the plant so that it may not survive the following year. Once the flowers are picked, they can be placed in a basket or a paper bag. I always use a paper bag for wildcrafting and I carry a sharpie with me to write the date, species, and location of harvest. I re-use my bags over and over again.

When you get them home dry them in a single layer on a drying rack or an old window screen works great. You can dry flowers on a flat surface like a table, but be sure to turn them daily to prevent molding. Once dried, your harvest can be stored in glass jars until you are ready to use it. Never pre-grind or crush your herbs before storing as this dramatically reduces their shelf life. Instead, store them whole and dried. Then you can crush or grind as needed when you are ready to use them.

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Cronodon Asteraceae Flower Diagram https://cronodon.com/BioTech/asteraceae.html .

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Eflora Plants of North America http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

iNaturalist Plant Search https://www.inaturalist.org/home

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

NatureServe Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Search

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Willis, Lyrae (2022).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published. 

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


The Art of Ethical Wildcrafting - Learn What It Is And How To Do It

Ethical wildcrafting under the power lines with my oldest son in Sechelt, BC, Canada back in 2005. Power lines are a great place to harvest because they get slashed down every 10 years by the power company.
My youngest son wildcrafting juniper
‘berries’ on a quiet roadside (never use
a busy highway!) earlier this year (2023).
I always like to show my kids these
useful skills.

The Art of Ethical Wildcrafting

So what is “ethical wildcrafting” anyway? I have always defined ethical wildcrafting as “the wild harvesting of plants, lichens, fungus, or other organisms from nature in a manner that reduces our impact as much as possible.” This covers both the ethical (to reduce our impact) and the wildcrafting (harvesting from nature) parts. When I used to teach a course on ethical wildcrafting 15-20 years ago, I always started with the same basic definition. The goal is to reduce, not eliminate, your impact. Your presence alone in any ecosystem has an impact. The whole ‘leave no trace’ movement, while I absolutely support it 150%, strictly speaking from an ecological perspective, is impossible. Fortunately, however, we do not need to “leave no trace”. We simply need to reduce our impact to a level that the ecosystem, population, or plant can recover in as short a time as possible.

When to Use the 1 in 10, 1 in 20, or 1 in 50 Rules of Ethical Wildcrafting

So when it comes to ethical wildcrafting, you may hear of the “1 in 10”, “1 in 20”, or “1 in 50” rules. So which one are you supposed to follow? First of all, this rule refers to the percentage of plants you can harvest from a healthy population. If there are 20 plants, then you can take one if you follow the 1 in 20 rule. So when do you follow which rule?

First and foremost, before considering ethical wildcrafting for any reason, know your plant ID! Be absolutely sure that you are harvesting the correct species. This will prevent the accidental harvest of rare or endangered species. It could also prevent you from getting very sick or even dying if you accidentally harvest and ingest a poisonous species. 

From an ethical perspective, 1 in 10 should only be used with extremely common native plants with many large, healthy populations. Alternatively, it can also be used with introduced non-invasive, non-native plants. The 1 in 20 rule works great for common native plants. If you harvest one in every 20 in a stable, healthy population, that population, in theory, should be able to recover. I say this in theory because you may not know if that population is already declining or otherwise threatened. That is why with wildcrafting, whenever it is possible, you should never harvest an entire plant. 

The 1 in 50 Rule for Rare Plants

The 1 in 50 rule was designed for the harvesting of rare plants. However, I strongly discourage anyone from ever harvesting rare plants. The only possible exceptions would be for emergency survival purposes (extremely rare) or, in some cases, if its harvesting is needed to help aid in its conservation. If it is for conservation purposes, then please leave that to the scientists who are specialists in that field and are tasked with that responsibility. I believe that 99% of the time, even for scientists, collecting rare plants is not necessary. As an Environmental Scientist myself, I strongly advocate the use of very thorough botanical descriptions, along with multiple well-done photographs showing all the floral parts, stem, and leaf features. In most cases, this will be satisfactory.

If further information is needed on a rare plant, then with the advances in molecular analysis seen today we can now take tissue samples for DNA and molecular analysis. Tissue samples generally involve the collection of a very small amount of live plant matter. There is no need to destroy the original wild plant. In fact, by doing this, we can even take those cultures to create clones of the original plant. The clones can then be analyzed in a laboratory or greenhouse setting or used to produce more plants for conservation or commercial uses, etc. This completely eliminates the need to potentially damage the entire population ‘for the sake of science’ or reproducing them for conservation or commercial purposes.

The problem is that if you harvest one rare plant, even if you think you are doing the right thing, you may be stealing the genetics that was going to allow that species to survive long-term. Especially in the face of climate change and the current extinction crisis, you literally may be dooming that rare species to extinction. That may sound dramatic, and in all likelihood, you will not be the cause of its demise, but you also may be. So why take the chance? That is why it is best to leave them alone and enjoy them in the wild or in photographs instead. I frequently return to the site of rare and endangered plants, even if they are only locally rare and common elsewhere. I would rather enjoy them in their natural setting. And even more frequently, I examine the photos of them that I took in their natural environment, whole and completely unharmed by my presence. That is my rant on rare plants; I will say no more.

Ethical Wildcrafting of Invasive Species 

And when can you ignore that rule of thumb completely? With invasive non-native species. If you are harvesting Himalayan Blackberry roots in coastal areas, for example, dig up as much as you want. Or maybe you want to harvest Japanese Knotweed – then have at it and take it all if you can. In both cases odds are pretty high that the population will still return with a vengeance the following year. Again though, know your plant ID before you do this! Be absolutely certain you know what you are harvesting.

What is The Difference Between an Introduced and Invasive Species?

There are introduced species all over the globe, and many have ‘naturalized’ and, in theory, reached a balance in our ecosystem and are not currently threatening native species. Take dandelions, for example, that mostly live in lawns that have already displaced native species. The dandelions feed our bees providing flowers that were otherwise replaced by lawns. Invasive species are aggressive and are currently outcompeting our native species for resources. Invasive species vary from region to region; check with your local Invasive Species group about the problem species in your area.

How to Ethically Wildcraft

So how exactly do you go about ethically wildcrafting for personal use? It depends on what you are looking for. Here is what I used to teach my students in my class for each situation. If you have another request I have not covered here or want further clarification, then please Contact Me, and I will add it to the list!  

General Ethical Wildcrafting Tips:

  • Know your plant identification! I cannot stress this fact enough. Use a field guide, the internet, and my new Native Plant of the Week Blog to help aid you in your identification. Never ethically wildcraft a plant if you are not 100% certain of its identification.
  • Do not harvest anything when wet. Wait until the sun has dried the rain or dew off the plant before harvesting. This helps prevent rotting and molding.
  • Do not harvest in the heat of the day – the quality of your harvest will be poor. Harvesting a plant that is heat-stressed is also much more likely to damage the plant.
  • When wildcrafting, it is best to place your harvest either in an open basket or loosely into paper bags. The paper bag method works well when you are wildcrafting multiple things so that you can keep them all separated. Leave the bag open on top. Or, if you must close it deal with them as quickly as possible to prevent molding. 
  • Be sure the area you are harvesting from is either public land or private land that you have permission to wildcraft from. Never go ethically wildcrafting in a protected area or park of any kind.
  • Be sure the area you are harvesting from is free of environmental toxins. For example, do not wildcraft from an area downslope from a garbage dump. Also, avoid any sources of industrial discharge, whether solid, liquid, or water. Finally, the side of a busy highway is not recommended due to contaminants from vehicle exhaust. I have wildcrafted from the side of a quiet paved or dirt logging road before, though, since there is much less traffic there.
  • If the plant you are wildcrafting is poisonous (for example, Datura discolor or Phytolacca americana), even mildly so, wear gloves while harvesting to prevent absorption through the skin. Also, place the harvested parts into a paper bag labeled TOXIC IF INGESTED. While drying the plant parts, place another label on the tray with them so that it is clear, and again on the jar the dried product is stored in. Even if you think you are the only one using it, you never know when someone might come along and want to try something, maybe thinking it is something else, and they end up violently ill or worse. Also, of course, keep any toxic plants well out of reach of children.

The Essential Ethical Wildcrafting and Plant Propagation Tool Kit

I put my paper bags, digging tools, cutters, knife, alcohol, gloves, containers, and Sharpies in a tool bag that I took from a drill. I just leave it in the car, so it’s always there with me anywhere I go. I use this for wildcrafting medicinal herbs as well as wild seeds for plant propagation.

Tools You Should Have: 

  • Gloves for digging or to deal with prickles, spines, and thorns. Also, you may want gloves if you plan on handling any poisonous plants.
  • Sharp knife for cutting roots, tough leave stalks, flower stems, or bark
  • Container of wood ashes to seal wounds
  • Paper bags and or baskets to put your goods in
  • Sharpie felt or pen to write on your bags what, when, and where you wildcrafted it from
  • Digging stick for roots. A digging stick is a short, sturdy, pointy stick that will not break when you start sticking it in the dirt and scraping the ground with it. I usually just pick one up along the way. Never use a shovel for digging roots. Shovels are indiscriminate and will cut through everything, including what you are harvesting and what you intend to leave behind.

Specific Ethical Wildcrafting Tips:

Ethically Wildcrafting Flowers

Arnica latifolia plant with lots of flowers on it. This was in an area with many other plants so you could easily pick a few flowers from each plant.
Arnica latifolia plant with lots of flowers on it. This was in an area with many other plants so you could easily pick a few flowers from each plant.

If you are ethically wildcrafting flower heads, then harvest using the 1 in 10 for introduced non-invasive plants and 1 in 20 rule for common native plants. However, with a modification. Instead of 1 in 20 plants, I recommend 1 in 20 flowers. If there are only a few plants or a single plant, then leave them be. If there is a field of flowers, then use the 1 in 20 rule, but spread your harvest around. Never pick all the flowers from a single plant. Instead, pick a few here and a few there until you have what you need. Please always follow the 1 in 20 rule for native flowers like Arnica latifolia, for example. If it is an introduced species such as St John’s Wort, for example, you can always pick more. And, of course, if you are picking invasive plants, then by all means, pick to your heart’s desire. But always know your plant identification!  

To harvest, pick the flowers by pinching off the heads at the base. For those attached to tough stalks, you can use a knife to sever it from its stem. Never pull out the whole flower stalk, as you may damage the rest of the plant. Place your flower heads loosely in a paper bag or a basket. As soon as you get them home, dry them on a drying rack, an old window screen, or a table surface but be sure to turn them once a day to prevent molding. Once dry, store the heads in a glass jar until they are ready to use.

Ethically Wildcrafting Leaves

Wildcrafting leaves is easy - pick them from the branches and put them in bag or basket
Leaves of Populus tremuloides; photo from Edgewood, BC, Canada. Leaves on large trees are numerous, making it easy to get what you need from 1-2 trees.

Leaves are best wildcrafted before the plant puts its energy into flowering. So, this means either spring or early summer, depending on the plant. Again use the 1 in 20 rule of ethical wildcrafting for leaves as you would flowers. Do not pick all the leaves off a single plant, or it will not be able to photosynthesize and complete its life cycle. Usually, you can simply pluck off the leaves by pinching them at the base with your fingers. Occasionally you will need a knife to cut off leaves with large or tough leaf stalks.

After picking, place the leaves loosely in a paper bag or a basket. Do not pack them in tightly. When you get them home, dry them in a single layer on a rack, screen, or table (turn daily if there is no ventilation). Once dry, store them in a glass jar. I recommend not crushing them too much until you are ready to use them. When you grind or crush them, it increases the surface area, which degrades the leaves faster than if left whole or in larger pieces.

Ethically Wildcrafting Needle-Like Leaves 

Wildcrafting of needle-like leaves - Picea engelmannii. Simply plug some off of each branch until you have enough
Harvesting of needle-like leaves – just pluck some needles from each branch until you have enough.

These are the same as regular leaves, only easier as they can be easily plucked from the branch. Using the 1 in 20 rule of ethical wildcrafting would be challenging if you had to count the needles, so there is a better way. Simply put, never strip the whole branch. Instead, take a small handful from each branch until you have enough.

Pluck your needles from the branch and place them in a paper bag. Then dry them on a rack or screen. Leave them for a couple of weeks until they are truly dry. Being tough and resinous, they may appear dry but are not until they become brittle. From there, they can be stored in a glass jar or used right away. 

Ethically Wildcrafting Aerial Parts 

Harvesting aerial parts is easy, you simply cut the entire stem at its base and hang them upside down to dry - eg - Yarrow
Harvesting aerial parts is easy – you can take the whole stem and dry them upside down in small bunches.

If you are picking the whole stem and flowers, then you can follow the same rule as for flowers and leaves. Use the 1 in 20 rule of ethical wildcrafting by picking 1 in 20 stems in the population and spreading your harvest around. These are the easiest things to harvest because you take the whole stem.

When harvesting the whole stem, always use a knife to cut it from near the base of the plant. Never pull the whole stem out, or you could damage the entire plant, and it may not return the following year or complete its annual life cycle that year.  

You can bunch your stems together and tie them with a string or elastic band to hang dry. Be sure your stem bases are not covered with leaves that will rot and mold. If they are, remove the leaves and dry them separately. Alternatively, simply reduce the number of stems in your bunch significantly. Generally speaking, never put more than 10 stems in a bunch, sometimes less.  Once dry, you can cut them into shorter sections (but not too small!) and store them in a glass jar until you are ready to use them. As with leaves, do not grind or crush them until you are ready to use them.

Ethically Wildcrafting Berries, Drupes, Nuts, or Other Fruits

Fruits of Fragaria virginiana from my yard in Edgewood, BC. We had lots of these plants so I could pick quite a few berries and still left lots for the birds and other wildlife.
Fruits of Fragaria virginiana from my yard in Edgewood, BC. We had lots of these plants so I could pick quite a few berries and still left lots for the birds and other wildlife.

These are usually easy to pick; we all know how to pick berries and fruits. Please keep in mind that wildlife often depends on these fruits for survival. So be sure to follow the 1 in 20 rule and spread your harvest around so you do not remove all the fruits from a single area.  

After picking, place your fruits in a bowl or container if they are particularly juicy. Drier fruits like nuts or juniper berries (not technically an actual berry, botanically speaking!) can be placed in a paper bag. Fruits can be frozen or dried using the drying rack or screen method. You could even use a food dehydrator if they are particularly juicy. Do not use a table or cookie sheet, as berries and fruits can mold quickly.  Once dry, store them in a glass jar.

Ethically Wildcrafting Seeds

Wildcrafting seeds - make sure your plant is full mature, then pluck the seeds, or their vessels, and put them in a bag to further dry before sorting them and storing them. This is Chilopsis linearis (Desert Willow)
Wildcrafting seeds – make sure your plant is full mature, then pluck the seeds, or their vessels, and put them in a bag to further dry before sorting them and storing them. This is Chilopsis linearis (Desert Willow)

When ethically wildcrafting seeds for medicine, be sure the plant has fully matured. This is usually in the later summer or in the fall when the leaves have started to die back a little. You want to make sure they are fully ripened before harvesting. Simply pick the seeds, again roughly following the 1 in 20 rule for seeds. Spread your harvest around, being sure to leave seeds on the plant or the ground where they would have naturally fallen.

Once picked, place the seeds into a paper bag and then dry them on a drying rack or screen at home. If they are contained in pods of some kind and the pods are easy to open, you can do this right away. Sometimes though, you may need to dry them first in order to crush the ‘container’ holding the seeds. Once dried and any pods etc., are removed, they should be stored in a glass jar.

Many already dry seeds not contained in a pod or other coating can be left in the paper bag. In the case of dry seeds, simply give the paper bag a shake once in a while to be certain they dry completely.

Ethically Wildcrafting Rose Hips

Wildcrafting Rose hips - simply pluck them off and process them before drying. Rosa nutkana; photo from Sechelt, BC, Canada.
Wildcrafting Rose hips – simply pluck them off and process them before drying. Rosa nutkana; photo from Sechelt, BC, Canada.

These must be wildcrafted in the early fall after they have matured but before the fall rains start the molding. If you wait too long, they also tend to get a lot of bugs in them. As always, follow the 1 in 20 rule of ethical wildcrafting and pluck them from the bushes by pinching them off at the base with your fingers. They can be picked and placed into a basket or a paper bag. Bring them home and process them immediately.

When processing rose hips, I always cut them in half or even quarters, as they can often be quite large. Because they are large, they dry slowly, making them prone to rotting. Also, once dry, they are very tough and almost impossible to cut, making them difficult to use later on. Once dried, store them in a glass jar until ready for use.

Ethically Wildcrafting Roots, Rhizomes & Bulbs

Roots of all kinds are generally best ethically wildcrafted in fall or spring. When digging roots from a fibrous root plant or a rhizome plant, try to harvest some of the roots without killing the whole plant. You can do this by gently digging around the base of the plant with your hands or a digging stick. Never use a shovel, or you will unintentionally damage other roots and sometimes other plants. If the plant has a taproot or a bulb, there is usually no way to save the plant, in which case, follow the 1 in 20 rule for whole plants.

Do not wash your roots unless they are already wet and muddy when harvesting, then quickly rinse them. Usually, however, simply brush the dirt off the roots. Then place them on a drying rack or a screen. If they are dirty, then wait a day or so, then brush them again to remove any remaining dirt. At this stage, you usually also want to cut your medicinal roots into more manageable pieces before allowing them to finish drying. Roots usually become incredibly tough and difficult to cut once allowed to dry fully. Once dried, store the cut pieces in a glass jar.

If harvesting bulbs or other roots for edible use, such as Lilium columbianum for example, once you bring them home and clean them off, they should usually be processed within a few days to ensure freshness and prevent mold from destroying your harvest.

Ethically Wildcrafting Root Bark

Follow the same rule when ethically wildcrafting roots in that you should not dig up the whole plant. For example, when I harvest Devil’s Club root bark, I dig gently around the base of the plant with my hand or a digging stick. Then I find a nice single root and sever it with a sharp knife, just a bit away from the base of the plant. If available, I rub ashes on the wound on the plant side to help prevent infection. Then I dig out the rest of the root and bring it home with me.  

When processing your root bark, brush the dirt off the root. Sometimes you may need to allow it to dry for a day first, if necessary, to remove all the dirt. Then before it dries out completely, take a sharp knife and scrape the bark from the woody root. Place these shreds of bark on a drying rack or screen and allow them to dry completely. Once dried, store the shredded bark in a glass jar. I like to save the twisted pale wood from the root for plant stakes in my houseplants or simply for decoration. 

Ethically Wildcrafting Bark

This Culturally Modified Tree is a very ancient Yellow Cedar (Cupressus nootkatensis) that had bark harvested long ago by the Salish people on the Sunshine Coast of BC, Canada. Bark harvesting is permanent, but notice how they only took a couple of strips and the tree is still alive.
This Culturally Modified Tree is a very ancient Yellow Cedar (Cupressus nootkatensis) that had bark harvested long ago by the Salish people on the Sunshine Coast of BC, Canada. Bark harvesting is permanent, but notice how they only took a couple of strips and the tree is still alive.

I typically do not encourage the wildcrafting of bark because of the permanent damage it does to the tree. The tree above is what you call a Culturally Modified Tree. It is a very cool ancient (over 1000 years) old-growth Yellow Cedar (Cupressus nootkatensis) that had some of its bark harvested long ago, possibly hundreds of years ago, by the Salish people on the Sunshine Coast of BC, Canada. It shows you that bark harvesting is permanent. But notice how they only took a couple of strips, and the tree is still alive. However, if it is common, short-lived, weedy, and especially if it is non-native and invasive, then by all means, please do. Sometimes, if a tree has lots of branches, you can cut off a small branch and harvest all of the bark off that branch rather than the trunk of the tree.

It is best to ethically wildcraft bark in the spring when the shrub or tree is in its active growing season. It grows new bark from spring to summer, making it easier to harvest and less damaging to the tree. The bark is easy to harvest, especially bark that peels vertically up the tree. Put a slice in the bark a little way up from the base (but never right at the base). Then grab the edge of that slice with your knife or hand and pull it up, stripping it off the tree. Never take more than 1 strip off a single tree, and use the 1 in 20 rule for the plant population. Cut your bark into manageable pieces the same day of harvest, then dry them on a drying rack or screen. 

Note that if the bark peels horizontally, be very careful, cutting each side; never strip as you would vertical bark. If you ‘ring the tree’ in that you remove a horizontal patch all around the tree, the entire tree will die. Trees are really only ‘alive’ in their inner bark. The heartwood no longer grows or transports water or nutrients. If you remove its living bark from all around the tree, it will no longer be able to transport water or nutrients. 

Ethically Wildcrafting Plant Resin

To wildcraft resin blisters pop the blisters or gently scrape them off the bark. This is Abies amabilis, photo from Spipyus Provincial Park, BC, Canada
To wildcraft resin blisters, pop the blisters or gently scrape them off the bark. This is Abies amabilis, a photo from Spipyus Provincial Park, BC, Canada

Resin usually seeps from scars in the bark, or in some cases, the trees produce blisters of resin under their outer bark, as in the Abies amibilis shown above. Sometimes, you can obtain the resin from the fresh buds of a tree in spring before they produce new leaves. In most cases, it is collected in the spring. But resin blisters under the bark can be harvested anytime.

To wildcraft resin, you can scrape it off the tree from scars already in the bark. Or you can create slits in the bark to release resin and come back a few days later to collect it. When cutting bark to release resin, this must be done in the spring. With fresh buds, simply pick them off the tree in the spring following the 1 in 20 rule. For resin blisters, do the same; pick off 1 in 20 blisters. Place your resin into a glass jar. Buds can be placed in a basket or bag. I recommend you collect resin with your bare hands because if you use gloves, you will likely never get them clean again. I use my bare hands and then clean them with vegetable oil and orange or lemon essential oil that will cut through the resin.

Storage is easy for straight resin (not buds – see below). Simply leave your resin in the glass jar until you are ready to use it. To keep it extra fresh, I store it in the fridge until I am ready to use it. It can often last a couple of years stored that way. If harvesting buds, however, these could be prone to molding or rotting. So with buds, you would want to dry these on a screen as you would flowers, bark, leaves, etc.

Ethically Wildcrafting Lichens 

Usnea spp lichens on windfall in the forest make it easy to follow the rules of ethical wildcrafting. Simply find a downed branch or tree and harvest from that. These would eventually die on the forest floor anyway, but do not take them all! Some animals use these as a source of food.
Usnea spp lichens on a windfall in the forest make it easy to follow the rules of ethical wildcrafting. Simply find a downed branch or tree and harvest from that. These would eventually die on the forest floor anyway, but do not take them all! Some animals use these as a source of food.

Most lichens can usually be harvested any time of year since they don’t really ‘go to seed’ and usually have multiple dormant cycles throughout the year. When harvesting, choose a large healthy population and follow the 1 in 20 rule of ethical wildcrafting. Whenever possible, with lichens that grow in trees, choose specimens that have already fallen to the forest floor. Alternatively, find a recent blowdown tree and ethically wildcraft from that. Because these are epiphytes with multiple dormancy cycles, they can remain healthy and viable on the floor for months or even years. Leave the tree lichens in the living trees to continue growing and spreading.

After collecting the lichens, dry them on a rack or screen. Once dry (when it becomes brittle to the touch), they can be stored in a glass jar. When ready to use, simply pulverize in a blender or a coffee grinder. The powder will separate from the hyphal threads, which can then be sifted out using a fine-mesh strainer.

Ethically Wildcrafting Mushrooms

Never harvest mushrooms unless you know EXACTLY what is is. This pretty mushroom is Galerina marginata, aka Funeral Bell. It is delay poisonous, containing the same poisons as the Deathcap mushroom.
Never harvest mushrooms unless you know EXACTLY what is is. This pretty mushroom is Galerina marginata, aka Funeral Bell. It is delay poisonous, containing the same poisons as the Deathcap mushroom.

These obviously must be harvested in the mushroom season, which is usually, but not always, in the fall. Be sure you are spot on with your identification when harvesting for human consumption; some mushrooms, like the pretty ones in the picture above, can be lethal if ingested.

Pick the mushrooms by gently snapping them off at the base. Please follow at least the 1 in 10 rule. Many unethical harvesters go in and clear out the entire patch because they believe they will just keep coming back. This is true to a point because most of the fungus by far is located beneath the ground. The mushroom is the equivalent of a flower on a large plant. However, over-harvesting repeatedly from the same patch will degrade the mycelial network beneath the soil. Also, repeated trampling on the dirt above the ground will also damage the fungus below the ground. 

After picking the mushrooms, brush any dirt or debris off and use them immediately when used for culinary purposes. When they are for medicinal purposes or long-term storage of edible mushrooms, they should be dried. Smaller mushrooms can be dried whole on a rack, screen, or on low heat in a dehydrator. Larger mushrooms should be either sliced or diced before drying to make them easier to use at a later date. Once dried, store them in a glass jar.  

Conclusion

Now you have the tools and skills that you need to go out and ethically wildcraft your own ingredients to make natural medicines. Please be ethical, be educated, and be safe. And most of all, know your plant ID! Happy ethical wildcrafting! 

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask, Contact Me and I will do my best to reply within 48 hours.

References and Resources

Dictionary of Botanical Terms: Lyrae’s Nature Blog Dictionary of Botanical Terms is now online.

Eflora – for more information on plant identification for North America: http://www.efloras.org/browse.aspx?flora_id=1

Emerson, Lyrae 1998. Ethical Wildcrafting. Unpublished Booklet from a course on Ethical Wildcrafting taught by Lyrae Emerson (Willis) from 1998-2009.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Oplopanax horridus Devil's Club - Native Plant of the Week

Oplopanax horridus  Devil's Club, Devil's Walking Stick plants with fruits. Lyrae Willis photo, Angel Falls, BC, Canada 2018.
Oplopanax horridus Devil’s Club, Devil’s Walking Stick plants with fruits. Lyrae Willis photo, Angel Falls, BC, Canada 2018.

Native Plant of the Week – Devil’s Club – Oplopanax horridus

Introduction

Devil’s Club, Devil’s Walking Stick, or Oplopanax horridus, has long been one of my favorite native plants. I have spent many hours in the forest over the years admiring the leaves in the dappled sunlight reaching them through the forest canopy. It is a plant to be respected, in part because of its large size and its beautiful leaves. In part because of its powerful medicinal properties. Also, it should be respected because of its nasty, irritating spines you do not want in your skin. Once pricked it can sting for up to 48 hours or even more if they spines remain in your skin. I do not go near this gorgeous plant with a good pair of leather gloves. The ‘nastier’ and more unique a plant is, however, the more I respect it. Devil’s Club are tough, tenacious, patient, and almost magical plants. I think I understand why some native Americans used it in ceremonies.

For more than 20 years I have been ethically wildcrafting the bark of the roots to make medicines with. The medicinal properties of this plant are quite strong and the bark is very effective in treating a number of ailments. If you do harvest any of this unique and somewhat rare native plant, please do so ethically. See Traditional or Other Uses and the Ethical Wildcrafting sections below for more information. If you have any questions please feel free to Contact Me for more information.   

Description of Devil’s Club Oplopanax horridus

Leaves & Stem

Large palmate leaf of Oplopanax horridus
Large palmate leaf of Oplopanax horridus

Oplopanax horridus is commonly known as Devil’s Club or sometimes Devil’s Walking Stick. It is a member of the Araliaceae family along with ginseng and many others.  Devil’s Club is a large understory shrub 1 to 3 m tall, erect to somewhat sprawling. It frequently falls prostrate on the ground and roots from its fallen stems. It also spreads vegetatively through its spreading rhizomes, often producing clonal patches. The stems are all very densely covered with sharp spines that can be very irritating when they pierce the skin. The irritation, once pierced in the skin, can sometimes last for several days.

Devil’s Club has large palmate leaves (lobed maple-like leaves) with from 5 to 13 lobes on each leaf. The leaves may have spines along the leaf veins on both the upper and lower surfaces. The leaves have long petioles and are notched at their base where the petiole attaches. They are arranged on the stem spirally and are usually very large, anywhere from 15 – 45 cm across.   In the fall its large leaves turn yellow and drop off before winter, returning in early spring the following year.

Flowers & Fruit

Pyramidal racemes of Oplopanax horridus flowers
Pyramidal racemes of Oplopanax horridus flowers
Berries of Oplopanax horridus
Berries of Oplopanax horridus

In spring Devil’s Club produces 10 – 20 cm diameter dense pyramidal compound racemes of umbels of small greenish-white flowers. Each small bisexual flower has 5 greenish-white petals. 

These are followed by clusters of small round red drupes (a fleshy fruit with a hard pit) about 4 – 7 mm in diameter.  Even though it produces seeds in its drupes, more often it produces populations of clones that grow from spreading rhizomes.

Similar Species Frequently Confused With

Devil’s Club is a unique shrub in its region and hard to confuse with other species. Between the large spiny leaves, the spiny stems, and the pyramidal umbels of flowers and drupes it would be difficult to misidentify. However, when the flowers and berries are not present, the leaves could superficially be mistaken for the following species:

  • Ricinus communis – the Castor Plant, an invasive species making its way into the Pacific Northwest of USA and western Canada. It has large palmate leaves and terminal pyramidal flower clusters like Devil’s Club but is entirely lacking in spines and is monoecious rather than bisexual.
  • Heracleum maximum – Giant Cow Parsnip – an invasive species widespread throughout the range of Devil’s Club with large palmate leaves. However this is a herbaceous perennial with soft stems, not woody, and also lacks the spines. Its flowers are also large white umbels not the terminal pyramidal clusters seen in Devil’s Club.
  • Acer macrophyllum – Big Leaf Maple in a shrub or small tree size could at a distance look similar, but it lacks the similar flowers and has no spines at all.
  • Ribes bracteosum – while it sometimes can bear small thorns it lacks the large spines seen in Devil’s Club, its leaves are also more of a medium size palmate variety, and the flowers are completely different.

Habitat & Growing Conditions of Oplopanax horridus

Devil’s Club is an indicator species for wetlands and old growth forests as these are its preferred habitats. It can be found in damp forests, riparian areas, as well as coniferous and mixed forests throughout its range. Because it prefers moist, dense forests with little or no disturbance this makes them sensitive to logging and other human impacts. It prefers cool conditions from low to subalpine elevations.

Devil’s Club grows in rich, loamy soils that are consistently moist. It can tolerate seasonal flooding and waterlogged soils. It prefers full shade but can grow in part shade if the conditions are right. It will not grow well in full sun and patches often slowly die when exposed to the forest edge by logging or development.

Growing Devil’s Club in Your Garden

Since Devil’s Club is fond of damp forests it may be difficult to grow in your yard unless you have forested or otherwise somewhat shady spaces on your land. It will not grow in full sun. You can buy seeds online through the Amazon Affiliates link at the bottom. If you have shady damp forest then it will be easy to grow, simply plant young plants or seedlings in the damp shady forest, be sure to water them if it gets too dry and feed it lots of organic compost as it gets started. After that, leave it alone and it will do well.

If you do not have a forest or have a dry forest but still want to try growing it here are some things you could try. Be sure the location is at least in partial shade, never full sun. If it is in a drier forest what you can do is dig a depression into your chosen location and fill it with lots of organic compost. Compost holds moisture very well and the depression will collect the water you give it as well as rainwater that falls naturally. The idea is to create a spot for water to collect to create a more moist micro-climate. Then plant your plants or seedlings in the depression and check on them periodically to make sure they do not dry out too much. Do not keep them waterlogged all the time either, they just need to be moist.

If you have shade and no forest you can do the same as above, create a small depression somewhere in part shade. If the soil is poor remove about 50 cm at least of soil and fill it with humus-rich topsoil or a mix of soil with lots of organic compost. Then plant the Devil’s Club there. If there is not too much sun it will still grow outside of a forest setting. The key is to plant it and leave it alone as it does not like to be disturbed or fussed over in any way.

Wildlife Values of Devil’s Club

Bears are known to eat the berries of Devil’s Club and slugs will feed on the leaves. Otherwise due to the spines most animals leave them alone.

Distribution of Oplopanax horridus

Devil’s club is endemic to northern North America, being found nowhere else in the world. The genus Oplopanax does contain two other species but these are both found in Eastern Asia.

In Canada, the Devil’s Club is native to BC, Alberta, and the Yukon Territories with a disjunct distribution with a much smaller isolated population on two islands of Lake Superior in Ontario. 

In the USA it is native to the Pacific Northwest in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, southcentral Alaska, and also with an isolated population in Michigan on one island of Lake Superior on the USA side of the border. 

Status of Oplopanax horridus

Oplopanax horridus conservation status is considered Globally Secure (G5).

Currently, however, it is only considered Secure in British Columbia, Canada and Montana, USA. Locally in Canada in the Yukon Territories and Alberta, it is considered Vulnerable (S3). In the USA in Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and Idaho it is currently unranked.

The isolated population on the three islands in Lake Superior is considered Critically Imperilled (S1) in Ontario, Canada, and Imperilled (S2) in Michigan, USA.   

Traditional or Other Uses of Devil’s Club

The Devil’s Club has a very long history of use by First Nations peoples of the Pacific Northwest.  It was used in many ceremonial and medicinal ways. 

Devil’s Club as Food

The Oweekeno boiled the young spring buds and ate them as food.

Ceremonial Uses of Devil’s Club

The spines were used by the Bella Coola to ward off evil spirits. Gitzgan, Wet’suwet’en, and Haisla chewed the root bark as part of a pre-hunting purification ritual. The Kitasoon bathed in an infusion before hunting to remove the human smell. Haisla and Hanaksiala used it in purification ceremonies. Makah medicine men used it in their ceremonies.

The Haisla made the ashes of the wood into a ceremonial face paint for their warriors. Haisla and Hanaksiala used the ash mixed with salmon roe as a face paint for dancing. Their shamans would also use it to expel evil spirits from their patients. Nitinaht used the wood ash as a face paint to make their ceremonial dancers more powerful. The Lummi also used the ash mixed with grease as a face paint. They also used an infusion to cleanse the area where people had died.

The Haisla and Hanaksiala used the bark as a good luck charm by hunters, fishers, and shaman. Kwakiutl used it for protection and its magical powers. Tsimshian shamans, novices, and warriors used it for power.

The dried bark powder was used by the Green River Group as a deodorant. Haisla and Hanaksiala used an infusion of the bark after bathing.

Devil’s Club as Tools

The Clallam, Makah, Klallam, and Nitinaht people used the wood for fishing lures of various kinds. Hesquiat used the wood for fishing lures and for spearing octopus.

The Hesquiat used bark and berries as paint for baskets and other objects.

Medicinal Uses of Oplopanax horridus

Internal Uses of Devil’s Club

It is usually the root bark that is used medicinally, but occasionally the berries or leaves are also used. The Bella Coola, Haisla, Nitinaht, and Gitzgan used a bark decoction internally it to treat rheumatism (arthritis). The Gitzgan, Cowlitz, Haisla, Hanaksiala, Okanagan-Colville, Oweekeno, Sanpoil, Wet’suwet’en, and Green River Group took it internally for colds, coughs and bronchitis.

The Bella Coola, Gitzgan, and Carrier used the the bark as an emetic and purgative, either chewed or taken in hot water. Gitzgan, Okanagan, Oweekeno, Thompson, Wet’suwet’en, and Haisla took an infusion as a tonic or blood cleanser. The Haislan and Hanaksiala sometimes made an infusion with sea water and used that as a powerful emetic.

The Gitzgan took it internally for stomach pain and ulcers as well as flu and for gonorrhea. Haisla, Hanaksiala, Okanagan, Thompson, and Kwakiutl used a decoction internally for stomach problems and as a laxative. The Thompson also used it as a dietary aid to stimulate appetite, curb weight loss, and treat ulcers. Wet’suwet’en used the decoction to treat the flu.

The Gitzgan, Wet’suwet’en and Haisla also took it with other herbs internally to treat cancer. Gitzgan, Haisla, Wet’suwet’en, and Thompson took it with other herbs for diabetes. Kwakiutl, Skagit, Okanagan-Colville, Gitzgan, Haisla, and Wet’suwet’en took it as a decoction for tuberculosis. Gitzgan, Haisla, Wet’suwet’en, Nitinaht, and Thompson took it with other herbs broken bones or other problems related to bones. Skagit used a decoction after childbirth as a gynecological aid.

External Uses of Devil’s Club

The Carrier, Oweekeno, Coast Salish, and Kwakiutl used the bark as a poultice and took it internally as an analgesic for pain. The Cowlitz, Haisla, Hanaksiala, Makah, Nitinaht, Oweekeno, Coast Salish, Wet’suwet’en, and Gitzgan used it externally in a wash or a poultice for arthritic joints and rheumatism. The Coast Salish used the prickly spines on the skin as a counter-irritant for pain. Kwakiutl used it in a steam bath as an analgesic for pain. The Gitzgan, Wet’suwet’en, and Haisla used the bark in a poultice for wounds, sores, boils, ulcers, as a skin wash, and as an antihemorrhagic. The Okanagan, Tlingit, and Thompson used the burned stems with grease as a salve for sores and pain. Lummi used the bark poultice for nursing women to stop excessive milk flow.

Haisla and Hanaksiala used a bark infusion as an eyewash, especially for cataracts. The Oweekeno mashed the berries and used it as a treatment for head lice.

The Cheyenne and Crow people mixed the bark with tobacco and smoked it as an analgesic for headache.

Modern Uses of Devil’s Club as Medicine

Modern pharmaceutical applications include the use of it to treat tuberculosis.  Herbalists use Devil’s Club for coughs, colds, and as an analgesic. Personally, I have been making it into tinctures for respiratory infections and flu for over 20 years. I used to make a popular salve with it among other ingredients, that I sold under my own company label used for first aid, fungal and viral infections. 

Ethical Wildcrafting of Oplopanax horridus for Medicinal Use

If you do harvest the root from the wild please keep in mind it is a slow-growing plant whose range is decreasing. Alternatively grow it in your garden if you live in an area where it is native especially. See the Growing Devil’s Club in Your Garden section above.

Please always follow Ethical Wildcrafting guidelines when harvesting any plant from nature. Choose a large healthy population, not located in a protected area. Try to always only harvest from one plant near the outside of the population, and never dig up the whole plant. And always follow the 1 in 20 rule of ethical wildcrafting.

Wildcrafting and Processing

Wear gloves when working with Devil’s Club as the thorns are very irritating. I like to use leather gloves that are also waterproof (see Resources below) because the leather protects your skin and being waterproof is a benefit as Devil’s Club usually grows in wet or moist environments. Also, be sure you have a good quality, sharpened knife for cutting the roots to prevent causing unnecessary damage to the plant. I always like to bring my survival knife with me for projects like this because then it serves a dual purpose. I suggest a decent, affordable one in the links below.

Gently dig around the base of a single plant with your hands or a digging stick. Never use a shovel or you will damage other roots. Find a nice root and sever it with a clean sharp blade. Once severed it is best to seal the wound with ashes to prevent the root from getting infected.  Then take the root home, brush the dirt off (do not wash it), and scrape off all of the bark. The bark is what contains the most medicinal compounds.

Dry the bark and use it in infusions in teas or salves, or make it into long-lasting alcohol-based tinctures. I have always saved the wood from the root and put it in my plant pots to hold trailing stems or simply for decoration. I did this out of respect for the plant and not wanting to waste any part of it.  

References and Resources

Canadensys Plant Search https://data.canadensys.net/vascan/search

Dictionary of Botanical Terms – by Lyrae’s Nature Blog https://lyraenatureblog.com/blog/dictionary-of-botanical-terms/

Native American Ethnobotany http://naeb.brit.org/

Natureserve Explorer https://explorer.natureserve.org/Taxon/ELEMENT_GLOBAL.2.148842/Oplopanax_horridus 

Pojar, Jim; Andy MacKinnon (1994). Plants of Coastal British Columbia. BC Ministry of Forests and Lone Pine Publishing. p. 82

USDA Plants Database https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home

Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Devil’s_club

Willis, Lyrae (2021).  Plant Families of North America.  Not yet published.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Are Common Cattails Typha latifolia Really an Invasive Species?

Illustration 1: Typha latifolia - Lyrae Willis photo from Michigan, USA. You can tell this is Typha latifolia because there is no space between the smaller male flowers and the larger female flowers on the inflorescence spike.
Illustration 1: Typha latifolia – Lyrae Willis photo from Michigan, USA. You can tell this is Typha latifolia because there is no space between the smaller male flowers and the larger female flowers on the inflorescence spike.

Are Common Cattails Typha latifolia Really an “Invasive Native Species?”

Summary 

If common cattails, Typha latifolia, can be used to treat wastewater and restore degraded marshes and wetlands, then human perceptions of this native invasive species should change. Although Typha spp are indeed native to North America and much of the world, they are often considered invasive due to their tendency to form large monocultures, something that has been on the increase over the last century in North America. Cattails are unique in adapting to high nutrient and metal concentrations without suffering negative effects. In fact, Typha spp has been shown to increase growth under conditions most other plants find toxic. They also remove toxins and excess nutrients, cleaning the water in the process. Humans have drained so many wetlands, more than 90% in most urbanized areas. The few wetlands that remain are almost always subjected to drastic changes in both water quality and quantity. As a result, we have created conditions for the cattail, and very few other plants, to thrive in. Perhaps instead of treating the cattail like an invasive weed, we should accept the fact that the cattail monoculture issue is simply a natural response to the unnatural degradation of our wetlands. Then we could instead focus on letting the cattails do their work of removing toxins. Simultaneously we would need to work at restoring balance to the ecosystem. If you would like to learn more, please continue reading.   

Description and Distribution of Typha latifolia and Typha spp

Typha latifolia, the common cattail, is a native emergent aquatic species found in wetlands, marshes, ditches, ponds, and lakeshores throughout most of the world. It lives in every Canadian province and territory and south throughout the entire continental USA and Mexico. It is also found worldwide in Britain, Eurasia, Africa, India, New Zealand, and Australia. T. latifolia is a herbaceous perennial with long slender green stalks over 1 m tall topped with terminal round flower spikes. The flower spikes have male flowers on top and dense persistent female flowers beneath that are greenish when new but turn characteristically brown and fuzzy when mature. Basal leaves are thin with parallel veins that run their entire length of more than 1 m. The cattails reproduce by seeds but also readily reproduce vegetatively by clonal spreading of their thick underground roots.  

Typha angustifolia and Typha x glauca, a hybrid of T. latifolia and T. angustifolia, are two other common native cattails in North America. The other two cattails are easily separated in the field by T. latifolia’s male and female spikes that usually have no gap between them and its very robust dark brown female spike at maturity. T. angustifolia and T. xglauca’s narrower leaves and the gap between its female and male spikes differentiate them from T. latifolia. T. latifolia is also more tolerant of a wider range of conditions from tropical to cool temperate in both humid and dry climates from sea level up to 2125 m in elevation. The other two species are found at lower elevations and latitudes.

Typha x glauca has fairly broad leaves like T. latifolia but it has a gap between the male and female flowers
Typha x glauca has fairly broad leaves like T. latifolia but it has a gap between the male and female flowers
Typha angustifolia has narrower leaves and its female flowers are also smaller making a narrower spike.
Typha angustifolia has narrower leaves and its female flowers are also smaller making a narrower spike.

The Use of Emergent Aquatics in Constructed Wetlands

Emergent aquatics, particularly Typha latifolia, have been shown in multiple studies to be effective biofilters that can help remove excess nutrients and toxins from wastewater. Emergent aquatics are important in wastewater treatment wetlands because they help stabilize the plant beds, provide filtration, surface area for microbes, slow the speed of currents, aid in sedimentation, and increase the contact time between runoff and plant surface area. Furthermore, the turnover of roots allows for better aerobic conditions and water penetration into the soil. The roots also release organic compounds that provide a food source for denitrifying microbes that are important for removing Nitrogen.

When it comes to removing toxins or excess nutrients from wetlands, laboratory studies have shown that cattails can accumulate high levels of Copper, Nickel, and Iron in their leaves and especially their roots. Those same studies found that growth was actually stimulated at moderate levels of Copper that many plants find toxic. Further studies by the same authors on Nickel and Iron showed no toxicity with concentrations five to six times higher than that of Copper. These studies show that cattails are highly tolerant of excess metals and could be a valuable tool in remediation.

The removal rates of excess nutrients and pollutants from wastewater predictably vary under the varying environmental conditions outside the laboratory. But this is useful in that constructed wetlands can be designed to optimize targeted pollutants by using a different construction design. For these reasons and its widespread native distribution, Typha latifolia is a common plant used in constructed wetlands designed to purify wastewater or as a secondary treatment for municipal sewage treatment plants. They are abundant, adaptable, provide structure, and clean the water. They truly are miraculous plants when it comes to their use in constructed wetlands.

The Invasiveness of Typha latifolia Cattails

Some people have concerns about using cattails in wetland restoration projects because they are often considered to be an invasive species. Cattails may appear invasive due to changes in water levels, wildfire suppression, excessive nutrients, or metal input which all favor cattail growth at the expense of other species. This can result in large monocultures of this native species. Typha’s ability to clone and grow rapidly also contributes to its superior competitive ability under altered environmental conditions. If, however, the wetland is a high-quality natural area, the cattails generally exist as scattered patches of plants with open water and numerous other species. This suggests that it is wetland degradation and not the cattail itself that is forming the monocultures.

Cattail marsh monoculture from Alberta, Keeler 2015 photo.
Illustration 2: Typha latifolia Cattail marsh in Alberta. Keeler, 2015.

In the case of wastewater treatment wetlands designed specifically to handle contaminated water, then the invasiveness of cattails is not an issue. Most other species would not be able to survive in the conditions of constructed wastewater wetlands anyway. Typha latifolia, on the other hand, will flourish and clean the water at the same time as providing a habitat for birds and invertebrates that use the cattails for nesting and reproduction.

This all suggests that the cattail itself is a successful opportunistic species that can adapt to a wide range of adverse conditions. While this itself does not make it invasive, it does suggest that the cattail’s inherent ability to tolerate adverse conditions is what is creating the monocultures. We are the ones who are degrading our wetlands, so we are creating the conditions in which cattails can sometimes create monocultures.

Removal of Cattail Monocultures To Restore Biodiversity

Studies of the physical removal of some of the cattails in monocultures have shown a marked increase in biological diversity in both the soil and water. These same and other studies have also shown a noticeable increase in birds, muskrats, and invertebrates. Other studies with draining and burning showed that while draining alone increased Typha cover, it also increased species diversity. If you use draining along with summer burning, it will help reduce Typha dominance while releasing nutrients and stimulating the growth of other species. This draining and burning process, because it also mobilizes nutrients, may help deal with the excess nutrient load that created the monoculture in the first place. In the case of excess metals, however, the cattails and their roots should simply be periodically removed and disposed of, removing the toxins from the system while promoting biodiversity. These methods will all work if we have eliminated or reduced the source(s) of pollutants or water changes. This may be an effective way to quickly restore the diversity that used to exist in these marshes before human disruption turned them into monocultures.

Conclusion:

In summary, Typha latifolia can be very useful both in restoration projects and in wastewater remediation. The invasiveness of cattails is not an issue if we address the disruption and pollution of our wetlands. In areas where they already are monocultures, if we correct or mitigate the source of degradation, those wetlands could easily be restored to recreate thriving and biodiverse wetlands. Furthermore, using cattail monocultures in wastewater treatment wetlands is beneficial since the cattail is very effective for wastewater treatment and few other plants will survive in those conditions. Finally, perhaps it is our perception that is what really needs to change. Instead of treating cattails like an invasive species, we should recognize why they may form monocultures. We should take responsibility for it rather than blaming this native species and trying ineffectively to control it. Instead, we should let it thrive and do its job while we work to create cleaner wetlands with less pollution and water stresses. After we have done our part either in creating cattail treatment wetlands where needed or by reducing or eliminating sources of degradation, then we can look at addressing the cattail monocultures through passive or active restoration processes.

If you want to learn more about native plants in North America, Check out my new Native Plant of the Week Blog where each week I will focus on a different native plant. You can learn how to identify it, where it is found, its conservation status, its traditional uses, and ethical wildcrafting.

And if you want to learn more about invasive species, what they are, and why we should be concerned, check out What are Invasive Species and What Should We Do About Them? Also, check out my newest blog category on Invasive Species of North America where each week, I will describe a different invasive species in North America and what we can do to help control it.

References and Resources

Ducks Unlimited. Managing your Restored Wetland. Online publication http://www.ducks.org/media/Conservation/GLARO/_documents/_library/_landowner/Freshwater_WL_Mgt.pdf

Grace, JB and JS Harrison, 1986. The Biology of Canadian Weeds. 73. Typha latifolia,Typha angustifoia and Typha xglauca. Can. J. Plant Sci. 66: 361-3’79.

Green E.K., and S.M. Galatowitsch 2001. Differences in wetland plant community establishment with additions of nitrate-N and invasive species (Phalaris arundinacea and Typha xglauca). Department of Horticultural Science, University of Minnesota. Published by NRC Research Press February 12,2001.

Keeler, Kathleen, 2015. Visiting Alberta–Cattail Marshes and Flyways. The Wandering Botanist. http://khkeeler.blogspot.ca/2015/12/visiting-alberta-cattail-marshes-and.html. December 27, 2015.

Motivans K. And S. Apfelbaum. 1987. Element Stewardship abstract for Typha spp. North American cattails. The Nature Conservancy. October 2007.

Taylor, Gregory J and A. A. Crowder, 1983. Uptake and accumulation of heavy metals by Typha latifolia in wetlands of the Sudbury, Ontario region. Canadian Journal of Botany 61: 63-73.

Taylor, Gregory J and A. A. Crowder, 1984. Copper and nickel tolerance in Typha latifolia clones from contaminated and uncontaminated environments. Canadian Journal of Botany 62: 1304- 1308.

USDA Plant Guide. Broad-Leaved Cattail Typha latifolia. USDA NRCS National Plant Data Center & Idaho Plant Material Center.

Wetlands International, 2003. The use of constructed wetlands for wastewater treatment. Wetlands International, Malaysia Office, First Edition 2003.

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!


Welcome to My Nature Blog!

Old Growth Swamp from the Coastal Mountains, British Columbia, Canada
Old Growth Swamp from the Coastal Mountains, British Columbia, Canada
Me sitting in an Old Growth Swamp in the Coastal Mountains of BC back in 2007.
Me sitting in an Old Growth Swamp in the Coastal Mountains of BC back in 2007.

Lyrae’s Nature Blog

Welcome to my first nature blog!  I created Lyrae’s Nature Blog to help me share my passion for science and nature writing.  This nature blog will cover topics such as native plants, invasive species, habitat loss, climate change, and more. I have a BSc, Honors, in Environmental Sciences, specializing first in Chemical Environmental Analysis and later in Botany and Ecology.  After my degree, I received professional certifications in Wetland Assessments, Riparian Areas Assessments, and Ecological Restoration. I have always loved science and writing scientific papers for school. Now I am venturing outside of my science bubble to try my hand at writing for a more general audience.  My goal is to share some of the wonderful knowledge I have gathered along my lifelong learning journey.  

Coming soon, I will publish my first article on the use of “invasive native” cattails to help with wetland and wastewater remediation. Soon after, I will publish my first ‘Native Plant of the Week’ blog. Each week I will describe a native North American plant, provide a photo(s), its range and status, and current or traditional uses. If you have any particular requests for topics related to the environment, plants, or ecology, please feel free to contact me. 

Additional Blog Topics

I will also be doing two smaller blogs with a natural theme to them. The first is Healing Naturally since I have a lifetime of experience healing Inflammatory Bowel Disease (Crohn’s Disease and Ulcerative Colitis) naturally. Soon I will publish my first article explaining my healing journey and the steps I took to get well naturally.  I will occasionally be sharing different natural remedies that can help heal the gut. And finally, I will also share some of my favorite allergy and IBD-friendly recipes I have personally developed over the years.  

Finally, my newest passion I will be sharing is topics related to homeschooling our children.  Whether you are a full-time homeschool parent or want to supplement your child’s education with topics not covered well enough in the regular curriculum, this blog is for you. Topics will include teaching children to identify plants and other organisms around them, medicinal and emergency uses of plants, environmental topics, healthy food choices, and how our choices as consumers affect the world around us.  I feel that all children should understand where their food and other goods come from and how those choices affect their health and that of the environment. This allows our children to make informed choices.   

For More Information

Please contact me if you have any questions about my articles, suggestions for specific topics, or questions about my ecological consulting and survey services. Use the contact me page to send me your information and inquiry and I will do my best to respond within 48 hours.  

And finally, If you want to learn more about who I am, check out my Autobiography. Thank you for reading and I look forward to sharing more soon!

Currently Seeking Funding To Continue This Non-Profit, Ad-Free Work

If you are able to donate so that I can continue this non-profit work of supplying people with scientific information on the plant families, native plants, and invasive species found throughout North America, please donate using the GoFundMe link below. Thank you!